Eibach pro kit/ white line endlink installation for dummies

[Dealthstalker.kdm]

Hey y’all,

just bought the pro kit springs, sways, and endlinks. I dont know my way around cars like that. I am truly a beginner but YouTube does wonders and I love DIY. Honest opinions, should I do this myself? Is it really easy or should I just bite the bullet and have someone do it for me?

if I have a shop do it, how do I even make sure they did it right ya know? I dont even know what im looking for. Sucks to be a noob but any info you guys can give me I really appreciate,

feel like I’ve been all over this forum and everyone’s been so helpful so far haha

 

[oddball]

Front sway bar is super easy. So are front and rear end links.
Rear sway bar isn't hard, per se, but very fiddly. Thankfully my good friend with the small hands was able to help me out.
Springs also aren't hard, but there's quite a few steps and you can get seriously hurt if you make a mistake.

Best is to find someone local to hang out with and convince to help you learn stuff.

 

[NYBIOMED]

^^What he said, even noobs can do sway bars/endlinks... springs? Not so much. You'll need an alignment afterwards anyhow, so let a shop do it right. I would encourage you to do the sways/endlinks though, to get yourself familiar with your suspension and turning wrenches in general, but save the springs for the pros, people have been killed working with springs and all the energy stored in a compressed spring.

 

[Dealthstalker.kdm]

Front sway bar is super easy. So are front and rear end links.
Rear sway bar isn't hard, per se, but very fiddly. Thankfully my good friend with the small hands was able to help me out.
Springs also aren't hard, but there's quite a few steps and you can get seriously hurt if you make a mistake.

Best is to find someone local to hang out with and convince to help you learn stuff.

thanks man good advice appreciate you

 

[Dealthstalker.kdm]

^^What he said, even noobs can do sway bars/endlinks... springs? Not so much. You'll need an alignment afterwards anyhow, so let a shop do it right. I would encourage you to do the sways/endlinks though, to get yourself familiar with your suspension and turning wrenches in general, but save the springs for the pros, people have been killed working with springs and all the energy stored in a compressed spring.

thank you brotha appreciate the feedback

 

[Rodtheviking]

I'm going to be doing springs and sways here in the next couple of weeks. I do plan on just removing the entire hub assembly with the strut to make it easier to get the top of the strut out. I have fresh axel nuts to go back on if needed. Also removing the caliper and rotor for brakes before I pull them. I have done a few Audi's and a Volvo this way, takes a bit longer but way easier to get out.

 

[socalvn]

I'm going to be doing springs and sways here in the next couple of weeks. I do plan on just removing the entire hub assembly with the strut to make it easier to get the top of the strut out. I have fresh axel nuts to go back on if needed. Also removing the caliper and rotor for brakes before I pull them. I have done a few Audi's and a Volvo this way, takes a bit longer but way easier to get out.

That would be the easiest way removing the entire hub I chose to pay to have the front springs done and do the rears myself $680 labor for the front, both rear springs less than an hour super easy

 

[oddball]

I'm going to be doing springs and sways here in the next couple of weeks. I do plan on just removing the entire hub assembly with the strut to make it easier to get the top of the strut out. I have fresh axel nuts to go back on if needed. Also removing the caliper and rotor for brakes before I pull them. I have done a few Audi's and a Volvo this way, takes a bit longer but way easier to get out.

That means disconnecting the front lower control arms. Maybe they are like the newer stuff and aren't a taper fit. But the more common taper fit ball joints are a real pain to disconnect and it's easy to damage them in the process. IIRC, the connection point on the knuckle is pretty thick, which implies a taper.

 

[Rodtheviking]

That means disconnecting the front lower control arms. Maybe they are like the newer stuff and aren't a taper fit. But the more common taper fit ball joints are a real pain to disconnect and it's easy to damage them in the process. IIRC, the connection point on the knuckle is pretty thick, which implies a taper.

I've got air tools, should make short work of it.

 

[oddball]

I've got air tools, should make short work of it.

That's....... not how a taper fit is disconnected.

 

[oddball]

Just don't bang the shit out of an aluminum knuckle with a hammer. That trick sometimes works magically on iron knuckles, but you can actually deform aluminum knuckles.
Personally, the hammer trick has *never* worked for me. Very annoying.

 

[Rodtheviking]

That's....... not how a taper fit is disconnected.

Yes, I know.

 

[socalvn]

here's the proper way to do ithttp://www.kstinger.com/front_strut_assembly-552.html