I run full E85. But it takes a lot of changes in ECU. To have benefit of it as be more safe and have same power with less boost you need first a higher timing as E85 burns slower and "need a bit more time". With higher timing power goes up but only to a certain level. Stock timing is around 14 degrees but for our cars I would say no more than 19 as an absolute max. More will not make more power and risk for head lift is increase a lot as "MCP" Max cylinder pressure with to high timing will be passed and the MCP will be to early.
But there are many benefits from full E85, higher timing makes engine feel more response, no risk of have "pings" but if you reach the limit of the hardware pistons will broke or... a rod brakes, you also will have more safe power at the same level of boost with gas.
If to go full E85 witch I really recommend you should go for a BMW HPFP (Burger Tuning) that will make fuel be enough in the best way, fuel consumption is around 30-35% more than gas. CPI will also do, I have both as the CPI will cool inlet air a bit also. I also recommend Burgers new Turbo inlet Silicon pipes, use them and you dont need any other filters or boxes.
Next thing is to have an ECU with changed timing tables (otherwise no real benefit), you can also run leaner, best power is around 12.5:1 but I recommend is to stay at 11.8-12.2. Then... there is a lot of other ECU maps that needs to be change, cold start as an example is a hole another story, you also need to change torque tables and a lot of limits. On top of that you can have JB4 for adjustments most for your boost. To be safe and max out turbos my recommend is a top of 18.5 degrees of timing and stay at Max 19 psi of boost. With higher of the two, NO more power just an increased risk of failure. Our max of power with ALL changes is around 500 engine hp´s, then Turbos efficiency goes right to the basement. Thats also why you cant run more than 19 psi and less over 5000 rpm, just will make heat go up = less power. Of course you can load more at mid-range but I newer do that and never aim for that torque there as it is the most dangerous to do for the engine. Our pistons and rods isnt done for that. We need to learn that pressure on engine (same boost) is a lot more at 3000 rpm compared to 6000 rpm, why is that? Well its about time you have with that max torque, 3000 rpm makes it double compared to 6000 rpm. Its always the power that makes car faster but HP´s comes from Torque x rpm so to have as an example same power at 3000 rpm as at 6000 rpm you need double torque at 3000 rpm, does engine like that with stock pistons, rods and that heat it produces = NO, NO.
I dont add any boost under 4000 rpm at all, ok I have 2-3 PSI more than stock from ECU but if you go WOT thru gears rpm will stay at 4500-6000 rpm, its where you need the MAX power. So go safe, if you go by these limits and say you should run half a mile, that could be fatal, even 1/4 can be if you stress these things to much.
For you as go catless or with primary catless DP;s you also preferably need to a re tune of the ECU for the boost curve witch is airmass tuned, otherwise you will have a lot over 20 psi peak boost and that is really dangerous, boost can also get higher by higher rpm and also higher thru each gear at WOT
Feel free to ask or PM me! "In every good way"
