does the stinger go into limp mode?

Laughterthe4th

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does the stinger go into limp mode, if you add a new intake and exhaust? is a tune required for this not to happen if so?
 
Intake and exhaust wont cause limp mode and the car doesnt require a tune. The only thing thay has sometimes caused limp mode is adding primary car deletes along with exhuast and secondaries. That combo can cause overboost issues.
 
The Stinger does go in limp mode but should not do that with intakes or cat back exhaust. As above stated, unless you delete cats or mess with O2 sensors you should be fine.

For a reference, my stinger went in limp mode under WOT because of old Denso spark plugs with JB4. All went away after restarting the car.
 
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It all depends. I have a mostly stock 2022 and even when I was 100% stock I went into limp mode due to overboost conditions. It only happens when it's cold (usually around/below 5c). Had plenty of people say "You need to let the car come up to full operating temp first", but this even happened after driving on the highway for 2 hours so I guarantee you the car was at full operating temp. With the aftermarket intakes it tends to be a little more sensitive to it. Granted this seems to be an issue with some of the face lift models (not all). It seems to happen during the shift from either 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. I've just got to the point when the temps are cold that I don't go WOT from a stop or while going very slow.
 
Think of it this way, the ECU uses sensors to 'see' the information it needs for proper operation of the engine. If the data from any of the sensors is out of the safe range, it limits engine operation to safely stop aka limp mode.

Overboost conditions should not be repeatable in stock mode. I have (BMS) intakes and JB4 tune (map 1 or 2) and I live in Canada. I've done launches on cold winter weather and playing in the snow (car drifts amazing with winter tires) and yet the only 1 time I had limp was due to sever misfire on JB4 map2 on 94 octane winter fuel (which is crap).

I'd suggest you do some data logging and check the intake temp and o2 sensor values. I am pretty sure it should not go in limp mode often in cold weather. The ECU can adjust its fuel mixture to always reach the appropriate richness mixture.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
does the stinger go into limp mode, if you add a new intake and exhaust? is a tune required for this not to happen if so?
The Stinger can definitely become more sensitive to over-boosting after installing an exhaust and intakes. We had this issue with our GT1 until we installed the JB4 and fixed the air-fuel ratio. Your map, fuel, and temperature can all determine how the car acts upon WOT. We highly recommend the JB4 Tune to help mitigate this issue.

 
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Think of it this way, the ECU uses sensors to 'see' the information it needs for proper operation of the engine. If the data from any of the sensors is out of the safe range, it limits engine operation to safely stop aka limp mode.

Overboost conditions should not be repeatable in stock mode. I have (BMS) intakes and JB4 tune (map 1 or 2) and I live in Canada. I've done launches on cold winter weather and playing in the snow (car drifts amazing with winter tires) and yet the only 1 time I had limp was due to sever misfire on JB4 map2 on 94 octane winter fuel (which is crap).

I'd suggest you do some data logging and check the intake temp and o2 sensor values. I am pretty sure it should not go in limp mode often in cold weather. The ECU can adjust its fuel mixture to always reach the appropriate richness mixtu

The Stinger does go in limp mode but should not do that with intakes or cat back exhaust. As above stated, unless you delete cats or mess with O2 sensors you should be fine.

For a reference, my stinger went in limp mode under WOT because of old Denso spark plugs with JB4. All went away after restarting the car.
I am thinking of getting the velossa bigmouth intake as well as the stillen dual cold air intakes. Do u think it can cause this?
 
Think of it this way, the ECU uses sensors to 'see' the information it needs for proper operation of the engine. If the data from any of the sensors is out of the safe range, it limits engine operation to safely stop aka limp mode.

Overboost conditions should not be repeatable in stock mode. I have (BMS) intakes and JB4 tune (map 1 or 2) and I live in Canada. I've done launches on cold winter weather and playing in the snow (car drifts amazing with winter tires) and yet the only 1 time I had limp was due to sever misfire on JB4 map2 on 94 octane winter fuel (which is crap).

I'd suggest you do some data logging and check the intake temp and o2 sensor values. I am pretty sure it should not go in limp mode often in cold weather. The ECU can adjust its fuel mixture to always reach the appropriate richness mixture.
Seriously, do a search here. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just stating my experience and the experience of what I've read. There are posts upon posts of people with facelift models completely stock getting overboost, particularly in cold weather. As mentioned, it doesn't happen to every single one, but they are definitely more prone to it than pre facelift models. You'll start seeing them in late november or early december (here in the northern hemisphere). All I can say for certain is that when it happens to me, I can reproduce it consistently when the temp is just above freezing and going WOT from a dead stop or creeping, and it always happens between shifts. I can even watch the boost suddenly spike when it happens. Haven't bothered hooking anything up to take readings as I don't have anything that can log.
 
I havn't had one overboost since the Unichip was installed.

It was a daily occurence prior and i blamed it on the K&N Typhoon intake at the time.

It now makes 322rwkw/422rwhp@only 16psi and traction is a severe issue lol

We are in the middle of winter right now :thumbup:
 
I have a 23 gt2 with ark dp, borla active exhaust, k&n typoon intakes and hks bov. Mine can go into limp mode when going wot and i am still trying to figure out if its the bov, dp or exhaust. From what I've read here also is the refresh model stingers with borla active exhaust can cause the car to go into limp mode during wot.

I had the borla non valved previous version and i didn't have limp mode issues with the ark dp so not too sure honestly. I've kept my older borla catback but i really don't feel like changing things. I did the hks bov and borla active catback in same time so one of them is probably the issue.

I'm going to get the hks spark plugs installed soon and see if that helps and maybe put back the stock bov as well test it out. But yeah we'll see what I can find out. The weather here in los angeles is super hot so i rather not do much wot pulls unless late at night maybe to test out.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I wasn't aware that the refreshed models have different front end air ducting, I thought only interior and rear end was updated.

Either way from what all of you are saying, it might be a stock tune issue. I know all stock tunes should 'adjust' based on the values of the sensors, but this could be a tune issue since its multiple different owners having it. I was going to mention winter fuel being the culprit but again, different owners, different locations.

As a JB4 owner, I can't say good things about it. I've had no issues both mechanically or drivability and I've had it for 60k kms so far.


All I can suggest in order to figure out the overboost issue would be data logging. Get any cheap OBD2 reader (Obdlink is a good one) and log the boost/IAT/o2 values.
 
Yea I believe the stock tune could be a possibility causing all these overboost issues almost regardless of being stock or any mods. JB4 probably is one of the ways to go with it but being a california resident it is nearly impossible for me to get one. And I am not sure I would trust ebay to get one from there. I am sure I'll be able to get one eventually but not too interested messing with that right now. It's kind of rare anyway that I am smashing the gas petal to the floor taking it to redline but um yea that also kind of kills the fun lol.

From what I've gathered one needs to get the EWG wires to be able to adjust the wastegate settings (lower the value) to get rid of overboost issues. Well I guess it's sort of a win, get a piggyback tune, make more power, no overboost? :) I do have a obd2 reader so maybe I'll play with it later.
 
Just wanted to post an update since I got the JB4 done with fuel and ewg wires. Once I went into the JB4 and lowered the wastegate adaptations to something at 45 or lower the overboosting completely stopped. I did literally 5 WOT pulls one after another on map 3 with E30 mix. When I initially got the jb4 installed it did go into into overboost limp mode on map 4 when I had the stock wastegate settings. Once I went to map 3 and lowered the settings I was all good from there. I did also add the bms intercooler + snorkles to help with intake temps that were a bit too high. So it takes a bit of experimentation to see what your car runs best under.

I even used chatgbt where I uploaded 3 different logs I did on the freeway, one at 45, 42 and 40 wastegate adaptations FF settings and had it compare all the logs for me. The 40 setting seemed to be the smootest while the 45 was more aggressive. So the 42 setting ended up being the best of both worlds for my car. It's been really flawless since then. Biggest relief ever.

Really happy with the setup now!
 
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I have my stock exhaust fitted again with all cats and my stock airboxes with K&N inserts only.

I tentatively disconnected my Unichip and let the ecu do its thing for the first time in forever.

So far boost is on when I ask for it and no overboost yet.. touch wood , i will report back in a few days.
 
YES it can happen with just an intake and nothing else... usually on the -22/-23 though:rolleyes:

Ask me how I know...:mad:

I have a LAP3 coming in next week and then I'll be free to mod once again :devil:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Hopefully that resolves that issue! It's really annoying. Like even though I don't have overboost issues anymore I still have this weird fear of it when I get on it haha. Yup, intakes pretty much is all that's needed to increase the chances. It's just wild hearing from those that are 100% stock that are overboosting.
 
YES it can happen with just an intake and nothing else... usually on the -22/-23 though:rolleyes:

Ask me how I know...:mad:

I have a LAP3 coming in next week and then I'll be free to mod once again :devil:
I stated this 2yr's ago and everyone reckoned I just hadn't warmed my car up enough...

The K&N Typhoon system DEFINITELY caused my limp mode issues because the stock airboxes did not and I fitted it the same time as my sec cat delete... reverting back to stock sec cats 2yr's ago didn't fix it either, only once I fitted a piggyback tune to the car.

Why the Unichip solved my problem I dunno but I sold the K&N system for more than i paid for it and i liked the look of the AEM system better and that hasn't caused my overboost problem since?

Anyway i got sick of scratching my head the one week a month i get to thrash it so i just swapped it back to stock.

I still have all my parts here, but hand on heart it does not feel any slower and I refuse to connect my dragy and prove myself wrong!!

Peace
 
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