DIY Hatch Rattle Repair

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I had mine in for service and informed them that the rattle was back. After 3 hours of searching they realized that the rattle was coming from my rear spoiler, problem solved.
stealers always say problem solved ......................my last BMW had the problem solved 9 times , guess what .................No it wasn't ..................cant imagine how a stuck on spoiler would cause the rattle ........................just saying
 
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Lol I’m sitting at dealer now and one thing they are fixing is the rattle... it was non existent until I had my car repainted and I’m guessing they screwed it up during that time ..
 
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stealers always say problem solved ......................my last BMW had the problem solved 9 times , guess what .................No it wasn't ..................cant imagine how a stuck on spoiler would cause the rattle ........................just saying
The stock spoiler is actually attached to the rear deck by 2 bolts. The rattle is gone for now. We will see if it appears elsewhere
 
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I had mine in for service and informed them that the rattle was back. After 3 hours of searching they realized that the rattle was coming from my rear spoiler, problem solved.
This is affirming my suspicions about the source of the rattle in my Stinger. I've had my stinger since April - no rattles until about 2 months ago. It's been driving me crazy. I tried to isolate it without success. Then, I noticed that when I grabbed the top of the spoiler to shut the hatch there was a 'little' bit of flex in the spoiler. Do you know how the dealer fixed it?
 
This is affirming my suspicions about the source of the rattle in my Stinger. I've had my stinger since April - no rattles until about 2 months ago. It's been driving me crazy. I tried to isolate it without success. Then, I noticed that when I grabbed the top of the spoiler to shut the hatch there was a 'little' bit of flex in the spoiler. Do you know how the dealer fixed it?
Righted the
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
This is affirming my suspicions about the source of the rattle in my Stinger. I've had my stinger since April - no rattles until about 2 months ago. It's been driving me crazy. I tried to isolate it without success. Then, I noticed that when I grabbed the top of the spoiler to shut the hatch there was a 'little' bit of flex in the spoiler. Do you know how the dealer fixed it?
If you raise your rear hatch there are 2 access panels with bolts under them.
 
I did this fix and it's been all good now for a month.


I’m going to do it too, but only after taking it to the dealer one more time. I don’t expect them to fix it, but I’m certain it will at least increment the metrics for KMA that their fix is not a fix. Metrics are what motivate big companies, because they can be easily fit into revenue equations.
 
I’m going to do it too, but only after taking it to the dealer one more time. I don’t expect them to fix it, but I’m certain it will at least increment the metrics for KMA (Kia Motors America) that their fix is not a fix. Metrics are what motivate big companies, because they can be easily fit into revenue equations.
unfortuneately the dealers dont get the fix across the finish line , take them the extra washer and get them to do it just to get it done !
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I solved my hatch rattle using a pad of this foam under each of the side stops and partially tightening the screws. This foam is a crosslinked polyurethane foam that has very little compression set, meaning that it will retain its springiness for a long time. Foams that take a set will only work for a short time. Thickness used: 1.6mm. I removed the side stops. Cut a rectangle same size as the face of the side stop. Punched holes in it where the screw go through. Place the foam pads under the side stops and fastened the screws. Tighten the screws such that the foam is compressed about 1/3 to 1/2 way. The blue thread locker on the screws prevents them from backing out so it's OK that they are not torqued down tightly. I also set the slam bumpers to the maximum height called out in the TSB (1.04"). No more rattles! The car feels so much nicer without the rattle! Even in this cold NE weather. No rattles.

spec sheet for the foam:
rogerscorp.com/documents/949/ems/poron/industrial/PORON-4701-30-Very-Soft.pdf
Voltec is another mfr of this type of foam.

Steve
 
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I’m going to do it too, but only after taking it to the dealer one more time. I don’t expect them to fix it, but I’m certain it will at least increment the metrics for KMA (Kia Motors America) that their fix is not a fix. Metrics are what motivate big companies, because they can be easily fit into revenue equations.
it will really count if you report it to KMA and request a case file , dealers bury many issues
 
it will really count if you report it to KMA (Kia Motors America) and request a case file , dealers bury many issues


Valid recommendation, but don’t you think the dealer would also submit a warranty claim to Kia for their labor?
 
I solved my hatch rattle using a pad of this foam under each of the side stops...


Great idea and product detail. Got any installation pics?
 
Valid recommendation, but don’t you think the dealer would also submit a warranty claim to Kia for their labor?
maybe , but the fix takes literally 10 mins
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Dissatisfied with the prospect of listening to hatch rattle until the rumored April delivery of factory repair kits? A successful DIY fix was undertaken.

First, some strips of 2 mm thick black rubber foam sheet (see picture below) was taped to the top of the lower hatch bumpers. This cured the rattle and confirmed that some sort of bumper modification could work.

The upper hatch frame bumpers were removed using a TorX 4 screwdriver. This took a lot of force, probably because blue thread lock had been used in assembly.

Inspection of the bumper revealed there was a thin (about 1.5 mm) rubber gasket that did not extend to the edge of the bumper. There were two washers between the bumper and hatch frame for each screw.

A new rubber pad was made with the 2 mm rubber sheet that extended to the edge of the bumper.
The bumper was installed using both the original pad, original washers washers and new pad. The washers were on the bumper side of the new pad. The screws were tightened moderately tight (don't have a torque wrench). With the new pad, the hatch lid popped up slightly when opened.

A test drive in 15 degree weather revealed vast improvement in the rattle! It may have been heard once or twice over a route that previously had 30 rattles. The sheet rubber used was old - I don't know where to buy it.

it seems like dealer service for this would be hastened if they just cut new pads from rubber sheet instead of waiting for the kit.

Jim

View attachment 2142
What size washers do you suggest again? I'm gonna try that fix today, without extra rubber.
 
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Sorry to restart this old topic but how is the fix holding on? Is there no risk that water will go underneath the washers and cause rust in the long run?
 
The stock spoiler is actually attached to the rear deck by 2 bolts. The rattle is gone for now. We will see if it appears elsewhere
I had taken off the two black plastic blocks from the hatch and discovered that the top deckled had a missing bolt on the driver side. Luckily I had one that fit in my junk drawer and when I checked the passenger side that bolt was loose. I tightened the loose one and put a bolt on the side that was missing but I also did the rubber gasket under the blocks. My rattle is gone so I can't say for sure if it was the blocks or the loose deckled part. But I would say to anyone with a hatch rattle to check the deckled bolts in case they are loose or in my case missing altogether.
 
I just moved the latch down a little to get the hatch to be held a little tighter. It takes a little more effort to close the hatch but I'm nowhere near slamming it. Sits flush. I tried some washers but the hatch was sitting like a 1/8"-1/4" high from the fenders so that was a no go.

I put some pretty slim washers under the pads on the hatch, wrapped the latch with electrical tape and scooted it down just a hair and the rattle is gone now. The latch seems like the way to go, everything else pushes the hatch up, which i felt like was causing more wind noise due to less pressure on the weather seal.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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