CPI vs Tuned TCU

[ICE_TT_3.3]

Kind of a weird title without context, but I’m wondering what my next mod should be after I install the JB4, Hks plugs, and intakes.

I want to go with the CPI kit over meth as I have e85 close to home along with 93 octane at the same station, although not Shell quality gas. Where I’m not sure on the next mod is if I go with a tuned TCU to remove some torque management and quicken shift times or if I would be better off with the CPI kit to run e45 and max out the turbos (not sure if not having full turbo back exhaust will allow for close to 500whp though).

I’m not as interested in launching the car as I am just having good passing power on my mix of highway and back road limited stop light driving. That leads me to thinking the CPI would be a better initial mod after the jb4 although i guess im not fully educated on how much better the tuned tcu will change the car when not launching. Does it remove torque management on shifts as well? I’ve seen people have run the jb4 with the Lozic tcu tune and hit mid 3 second 0-60s but I’d rather again have the power similar to a fbo 392 car from a 40+ roll if possible.

I will eventually go tuned tcu just wondering what would be the most fun right now as It will be a while until I can add more go fast parts. Sorry for the novel lol.

 

[buddy712]

I think its personal preference, you are looking for top end power vs launch so I am thinking the CPI would be better. Then again the TCU does give faster shifts that remove the shift time and allows you to pull harder faster. I think with either option you will keep up with a FBO 392, but the CPI will make you quicker

In summary do both

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

I agree and I might spring for the Tork stage 1 TCU without a spare along with the CPI. I don’t know how smart it would be to alter my stock tcu with no spare but im pretty sure those two mods with the jb4 will absolutely haul ass in this car.

 

[buddy712]

I agree, I went JB4, then WMI, then TCU/ECU. The TCU made the biggest difference to launch, dropping 60ft by two tenths over brake snip

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

I agree, I went JB4, then WMI, then TCU/ECU. The TCU made the biggest difference to launch, dropping 60ft by two tenths over brake snip

Good to know! Anyone think I’m playing with fire sending my tcu out to Tork without a spare? I guess I may have trouble if I had to go back to stock for whatever reason and was running off the stock ecu tune. I’m second owner on the car with 55k so there is only like < 5k left before I’m on my own either way warranty wise. I do plan on going with the Lozic combo in the the future or Sxth once the new remote type stuff is available but am already wanting to get faster. I doubt these carmax tires are going to be able to keep up either way so there is also that to take into consideration. Will see here this weekend if I get my stuff to install the jb4 and how they do with that on its own

 

[AtomicGTL]

Good to know! Anyone think I’m playing with fire sending my tcu out to Tork without a spare? I guess I may have trouble if I had to go back to stock for whatever reason and was running off the stock ecu tune. I’m second owner on the car with 55k so there is only like < 5k left before I’m on my own either way warranty wise. I do plan on going with the Lozic combo in the the future or Sxth once the new remote type stuff is available but am already wanting to get faster. I doubt these carmax tires are going to be able to keep up either way so there is also that to take into consideration. Will see here this weekend if I get my stuff to install the jb4 and how they do with that on its own

Not familiar with how tork handles the tcu process but my guy @StingerbyAdoom would know

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

Not familiar with how tork handles the tcu process but my guy @StingerbyAdoom would know

Appreciate it. I’ve actually been talking to him about the Tork tcu and he said it shaved off a half second 0-60. For $99 that’s amazing but kind of scared to alter my only tcu with spares being hard to find right now and however long into the future. Otherwise I would have to pay $700 which at that point I’d go Lozic for $150 more.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Appreciate it. I’ve actually been talking to him about the Tork tcu and he said it shaved off a half second 0-60. For $99 that’s amazing but kind of scared to alter my only tcu with spares being hard to find right now and however long into the future. Otherwise I would have to pay $700 which at that point I’d go Lozic for $150 more.

The best solution is to look at the model number of your TCU in your car, and try and find a matching one off ebay or from a wrecked stinger

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

The best solution is to look at the model number of your TCU in your car, and try and find a matching one off ebay or from a wrecked stinger

I see one on eBay right now but can’t verify my tcu as my wife just took it to the gym. The 2019 GT1 is shift by cable right and only GT2s are shift by wire? Wondering if this one would work as the price seems good.

Edit. Looks like it’s from a wrecked RWD Gt so not sure if that is a direct swap to my AWD.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I see one on eBay right now but can’t verify my tcu as my wife just took it to the gym. The 2019 GT1 is shift by cable right and only GT2s are shift by wire? Wondering if this one would work as the price seems good.

Edit. Looks like it’s from a wrecked RWD Gt so not sure if that is a direct swap to my AWD.

if the numbers match, it will work. Gonna have to wait for your wife to get back unfortunately

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

Thanks for verifying. Yeah it will be there most likely either way. Would be nice to have a tuned tcu for sub $300 with my spare as backup.

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

I gambled on it worst case I’m out return shipping but I searched the vin it came out of and it was a 2018 GT1 so should match up fine assuming rwd vs awd doesn’t matter. To my knowledge the GT2 trim is the one that is drive by wire only vs drive by cable for the GT and GT1.

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

Just some information others might find helpful regarding matching TCU info from car to car. I went out and looked at my TCU and it has the number 95441-4J561 and a larger font 761 above that longer number. My car is a 2019 GT1 AWD.

I cross checked with the TCU I just bought on eBay from a totaled Stinger GT1 RWD and the p/n on that one is 95441-4J560 with a J56 number in large font. This is the part I would have expected to see come out of the several wrecked RWD Stingers I found that were parted out with TCUs available at one point. But then there’s this:

I did a lookup on my TCU p/n to see what came up and I found quite a few RWD H-Matic 3.3L Stingers with the same TCU part number pulled right from those cars. My point being that it doesn’t look like it matters rwd or awd or even matching part numbers as long as you stay H-Matic to H-Matic (GT and GT1) and E-shift to E-shift (GT2).

I did see on Torks Fb that they had a e-shift gt2 swapped to another e-shift tcu and it didn’t work so I really don’t know the exact method for how these TCUs swap over. I’m going to swap in the one I bought today and see if it works once I get it even though numbers are off, but according to Kia parts now it should work.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Just some information others might find helpful regarding matching TCU info from car to car. I went out and looked at my TCU and it has the number 95441-4J561 and a larger font 761 above that longer number. My car is a 2019 GT1 AWD.

I cross checked with the TCU I just bought on eBay from a totaled Stinger GT1 RWD and the p/n on that one is 95441-4J560 with a J56 number in large font. This is the part I would have expected to see come out of the several wrecked RWD Stingers I found that were parted out with TCUs available at one point. But then there’s this:

I did a lookup on my TCU p/n to see what came up and I found quite a few RWD H-Matic 3.3L Stingers with the same TCU part number pulled right from those cars. My point being that it doesn’t look like it matters rwd or awd or even matching part numbers as long as you stay H-Matic to H-Matic (GT and GT1) and E-shift to E-shift (GT2).

I did see on Torks Fb that they had a e-shift gt2 swapped to another e-shift tcu and it didn’t work so I really don’t know the exact method for how these TCUs swap over. I’m going to swap in the one I bought today and see if it works once I get it even though numbers are off, but according to Kia parts now it should work.

Let me know how it goes!

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

Let me know how it goes!

Will do! I bought another tcu this morning that matches my exact car’s tcu just in case so will be returning one, but wanted to make sure I’d have this transmission tuned off the bat. I do plan on nodding in stages though even with short times in between to see the difference on the Dragy.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Will do! I bought another tcu this morning that matches my exact car’s tcu just in case so will be returning one, but wanted to make sure I’d have this transmission tuned off the bat. I do plan on nodding in stages though even with short times in between to see the difference on the Dragy.

You may as well return the one that doesn't match, because the one that does match will 100% work as long as nothing is physically wrong with it.

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

I’ll do that for sure.

 

[ICE_TT_3.3]

This TCU is out of a 2019 GTS. So again no rhyme or reason to how they assign these to each Stinger.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

This TCU is out of a 2019 GTS. So again no rhyme or reason to how they assign these to each Stinger.

More than likely just light revisions to how the transmission handles power delivery, but of course with it being tuned that will be out the window anyways.

 

[cncBilly]

Kind of a weird title without context, but I’m wondering what my next mod should be after I install the JB4, Hks plugs, and intakes.

I want to go with the CPI kit over meth as I have e85 close to home along with 93 octane at the same station, although not Shell quality gas. Where I’m not sure on the next mod is if I go with a tuned TCU to remove some torque management and quicken shift times or if I would be better off with the CPI kit to run e45 and max out the turbos (not sure if not having full turbo back exhaust will allow for close to 500whp though).

I’m not as interested in launching the car as I am just having good passing power on my mix of highway and back road limited stop light driving. That leads me to thinking the CPI would be a better initial mod after the jb4 although i guess im not fully educated on how much better the tuned tcu will change the car when not launching. Does it remove torque management on shifts as well? I’ve seen people have run the jb4 with the Lozic tcu tune and hit mid 3 second 0-60s but I’d rather again have the power similar to a fbo 392 car from a 40+ roll if possible.

I will eventually go tuned tcu just wondering what would be the most fun right now as It will be a while until I can add more go fast parts. Sorry for the novel lol.

Will do! I bought another tcu this morning that matches my exact car’s tcu just in case so will be returning one, but wanted to make sure I’d have this transmission tuned off the bat. I do plan on nodding in stages though even with short times in between to see the difference on the Dragy.

How much are you paying for these tcu’s if you don’t mind pls.