Cold Crank ?

[AusStinger]

Just curios if anyone knows a safe and simple way to cold crank a Stinger ?

Was thinking it would be a good idea after an oil & filter change to spine the engine over for a little bit to get oil pressure before starting.

Thanks in advance.

 

[D.J.]

it may well be a "good" idea, but it's completely unnecessary.

my stinger usually develops oil pressure within ~800ms of starting, after an oil change.

The variable vane pump used in our cars is quite good.

 

[AusStinger]

Thanks for that info ( pretty cool tech in these Stinger's ! ) but I can hear the time it takes for the oil to get the top of the engine post oil change and even cold starts ( even after oil pressure light goes out ) so I thought I might try a cold crank to see how that works.

On the race cars I used to work on they had independent system controls so we used to cold crank the engine until we got good oil pressure, then turn on the fuel and ignition and light er up.

It's not a deal breaker but I'd like to give it a try.

 

[fairmont1998]

Most port injected cars have a mode to clear a flooded engine. You hold the accelerator to the floor and it disables the injectors while you crank the engine. I dunno if direct injected cars will do the same, could be worth a try.

 

[oddball]

Vane pumps require quite a bit of speed to work, so it may not pump much, if any, oil by just cranking. It's not like the traditional submerged gear pumps. Best option would be yanking whatever fuse runs the injectors (I have no idea which one and what else might be on that circuit). You're better off just starting it.
Or install an accumulator.

 

[D.J.]

Vane pumps require quite a bit of speed to work, so it may not pump much, if any, oil by just cranking. It's not like the traditional submerged gear pumps. Best option would be yanking whatever fuse runs the injectors (I have no idea which one and what else might be on that circuit). You're better off just starting it.
Or install an accumulator.

The engine RPM during starter cranking is plenty of RPM for the oil pump to circulate engine oil.


I wish there was an oil pressure sensor that I could access VIA OBDII

 

[AusStinger]

Vane pumps require quite a bit of speed to work, so it may not pump much, if any, oil by just cranking. It's not like the traditional submerged gear pumps. Best option would be yanking whatever fuse runs the injectors (I have no idea which one and what else might be on that circuit). You're better off just starting it.
Or install an accumulator.

I totally forgot about accumulators. Might be an option.... With it being a variable vane pump it might be good enough (?)

Thanks all for the input.
I appreciate your contribution.
Cheers.

 

[AusStinger]

I might just pull a fuse and see what happens. Probably end up with a fault code

 

[Ah GetFd]

Just curios if anyone knows a safe and simple way to cold crank a Stinger ?

Was thinking it would be a good idea after an oil & filter change to spine the engine over for a little bit to get oil pressure before starting.

Thanks in advance.

I don't think it is going to make one iota of difference on a car they give a 7 year unlimited km warranty if they thought the engine would fall out if you didn't dry crank it after a service.

 

[AusStinger]

I don't think it is going to make one iota of difference on a car they give a 7 year unlimited km warranty if they thought the engine would fall out if you didn't dry crank it after a service.

It's called built in redundancy ( also known as wear and tear ) so you keep buying new cars.

I used to cold crank my VE Commodore at every oil change from 15,000 ( when I stopped letting holden near it ) and at 100,000km it sounded as good as new with perfect oil pressure.

But just think about it for a second. Oil has to be pulled from the sump, pushed into ( AND FILL ) the oil filter housing, then through the filter, and through every oil gallery to each outlet. That's when most engine wear happens.

At least with good old vertical mounted canister filters, you could pre fill the oil filter but not with our 3.3 cartridge filter Stingers.

 

[Volfy]

Even if your engine has been sitting idle for many months (say, Winter storage), there is typically some residual oil left/trapped on bearing surfaces to sustain enough thin film lubrication for that very short duration, before oil pressure comes on line. This is true whether you are "dry cranking" or letting the engine come alive. Just because the ignition fires and allows combustion to occur, the additional load imposed on the bearings are not really all the much greater.

I'm guessing some race car teams dry crank their engines primarily because race engine could be running higher viscosity oils than what street cars do. Race engine needs that because they often do run substantially hotter than you typically grocery getters. Most road cars these days call for 0w30 or 5w30, so they pump much easier when cold.

If your car is mostly a daily driver, I wouldn't worry about.

 

[Ah GetFd]

It's called built in redundancy ( also known as wear and tear ) so you keep buying new cars.

I used to cold crank my VE Commodore at every oil change from 15,000 ( when I stopped letting holden near it ) and at 100,000km it sounded as good as new with perfect oil pressure.

But just think about it for a second. Oil has to be pulled from the sump, pushed into ( AND FILL ) the oil filter housing, then through the filter, and through every oil gallery to each outlet. That's when most engine wear happens.

At least with good old vertical mounted canister filters, you could pre fill the oil filter but not with our 3.3 cartridge filter Stingers.

Yes but not in Australia As a previous post said oil gets around in Milliseconds...not cold enough here in winter.

Speaking of VE

I had a VE SSVV8 Commodore 2008 (Pontiac G8) bought brand new and traded on this new Stinger a year ago

I serviced it from the very first service with genuine parts only.

Sold it as brand new......not a scratch dent mark, leak.