Coil Pack Scarcity

[Paladin611]

Greetings, All,

Like some many of you, I have, once again, blew out the spark plug on cylinder 3 merely by attempting to use my car's power. Well, this time I'm when I do the tune-up I will be replacing all the coil packs. Oddly, and the point of this post, the only coil packs I can find anywhere are the Worms Racing High Performance Coil Packs.

Kia Stinger 3.3T - Worms Racing High Performance Ignition Coil Pack Set

Worms Racing ignition coil pack set for Kia Stinger 3.3T delivers 10%+ spark, stronger ignition, better throttle response, & direct replacement. FREE SHIPPING!

www.k8stingerstore.com

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No reviews to be found anywhere, or people who have these on their cars. So, I would ask..do any of you in the Stinger community use these? If so, how would you rate them? I'm planning to use these with Denso 5346 IKH24 plugs on a stock car. Any replies would be appreciated.

Happy Holidays,
A.J.

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[oddball]

Where are you looking? RockAuto shows ample supply of OEM coils $50/ea. There's zero reason to use "performance" coils. Well, OK, the color for a bit of POP! in the engine bay is the only possible reason. Maybe someone will make billet coil caps? (spoken as someone that actually bought one of those stupid radiator cap covers because I thought it was a complete cap - and not just a cover that lays on top of the oem cap)

In ye-olden-days with a single coil fo a V8 there are reasons to select a different type of coil, or, at least, there are trade-offs that need to be decided. In coil-per-cylinder the demand on the coil is so low that there's rarely a reason to care. Early coil-per-cylinder systems could be a bit wonky because the coil drivers weren't very sophisticated. But with current ECUs the coil driver can make the coil do whatever you want - no need to modify the coil to get a different result.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

These are new. Just ordered them myself, because I am planning to get ecu tune soon. Hopefully they are good.

 

[Paladin611]

Gentlemen- thanks for the replies from the blue Stingers! Appreciate the Rock Auto reference. I'll check it out!

 

[Paladin611]

Here’s an update: Take a look at the pic- Cylinder 3 spark plug split down the middle. I have plugs in bank 1,3, and five replaced for good measure & the coil pack for bank 3 replaced. This is the 2nd time I’ve blown a plug simply by wanting to do a little spirited driving. There’s got to be a way to prevent this.

 

[Paladin611]

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Which coil packs do you have now? Oem?

 

[Snicklefritz]

Are you saying that your split plug happened on a spanking new coil pack??

 

[Thomby]

Cylinder 3 spark plug split down the middle

What's your tightening method? I find it hard to believe that the coil pack is doing this to the ceramic insulation, and it's not likely to be heat/pressure/detonation from the pull either since this is outside the cylinder.

If you're using anti-seize, it reduces the measured torque for a given bolt tension/clamping force, by as much as a third. I usually just hold the extension by hand with no wrench while I thread it in fully, then put the ratchet on and give the head of it a light "wrist level" twist.

If you put any forearm into it out on the ratchet handle, there's a good chance of going well above spec.

 

[Paladin611]

Which coil packs do you have now? Oem?

Yes- all Oem. That includes the brand new one I just had replaced for cylinder 3 last Friday. With the exception of a CAI, the engine’s stock so shouldn’t be a big deal.

 

[Paladin611]

What's your tightening method? I find it hard to believe that the coil pack is doing this to the ceramic insulation, and it's not likely to be heat/pressure/detonation from the pull either since this is outside the cylinder.

If you're using anti-seize, it reduces the measured torque for a given bolt tension/clamping force, by as much as a third. I usually just hold the extension by hand with no wrench while I thread it in fully, then put the ratchet on and give the head of it a light "wrist level" twist.

If you put any forearm into it out on the ratchet handle, there's a good chance of going well above

What's your tightening method? I find it hard to believe that the coil pack is doing this to the ceramic insulation, and it's not likely to be heat/pressure/detonation from the pull either since this is outside the cylinder.

If you're using anti-seize, it reduces the measured torque for a given bolt tension/clamping force, by as much as a third. I usually just hold the extension by hand with no wrench while I thread it in fully, then put the ratchet on and give the head of it a light "wrist level" twist.

If you put any forearm into it out on the ratchet handle, there's a good chance of going well above spec.

I didn’t install the plugs, and specifically, the plug in cylinder bank 3 that cracked like this. The condition of the plug was found this way in my engine when the boot was removed. My mechanic was shocked that it came out in one piece. There has to be some kind of extremely violent compression pressure/discharge voltage event taking place in these cars simply by, at any random time, raising the RPMs (especially while in sport mode). A very disappointing blunder from Kia’s quality control dept if you ask me.

 

[Paladin611]

Are you saying that your split plug happened on a spanking new coil pack??

Hey, how’s it going, man? No- the plug was found this way on the a pack that was installed brand new in the Fall of ‘23. It had about 17k miles on it. Pretty crazy.

 

[oddball]

Somebody broke that plug. That can happen by wrenching off-angle with the socket and trying to bend the spark plug. With the intake over #3 it's a little wonky to work on that plug so it's possible someone ham-fisted getting the socket/extension into the hole. I've broken spark plugs before (not on this car) when I've been in a rush and tried to tighten down a plug without getting into the right position/alignment.

There's no way the engine did that to the plug. A mechanic did that.

 

[Thomby]

I didn’t install the plugs, and specifically, the plug in cylinder bank 3 that cracked like this.
There has to be some kind of extremely violent compression pressure/discharge voltage event taking place in these cars simply by, at any random time, raising the RPMs

It seems far more likely that someone reefed the plugs in too tight. I don't know if Kia publishes a spec, but modern engines can be as low as 15-20 lb-ft, and using anti-seize reduces that further. That's closer to what you can do with a screwdriver (no lever arm), and a ratchet handle can far exceed it.

I agree with @oddball that the awkwardness and multiple swivels/extensions used to get to #3 could easily result in over torquing, and it wouldn't necessarily break right then, just stress it enough that it eventually cracks.

I don't think engine pressure is at play here, because this is outside the engine, and we have tons of guys running map 3-4-5 and power adders without issue. Maybe you just have bad luck, but I would strongly consider installing your own plugs and being very gentle: go hand tight / gasket seated and then 1/2 turn, and keep your hand on the head of the ratchet, not the handle.

 

[Paladin611]

Somebody broke that plug. That can happen by wrenching off-angle with the socket and trying to bend the spark plug. With the intake over #3 it's a little wonky to work on that plug so it's possible someone ham-fisted getting the socket/extension into the hole. I've broken spark plugs before (not on this car) when I've been in a rush and tried to tighten down a plug without getting into the right position/alignment.

There's no way the engine did that to the plug. A mechanic did that.

You've piqued my curiousity. Jim, my mechanic, is a seasoned vet who is very familiar with working on Stingers. He's the only mechanic that I bring the car to. I'm going to run this comment by him to just for s*its and giggles. Maybe I'll reply back with what he says lol.

 

[Thomby]

Jim, my mechanic, is a seasoned vet who is very familiar with working on Stingers

That may be the case. It might also be that he spent years working on iron blocks or HD diesels, and cranking plugs to German spec (gutentight) was fine, or any number of other scenarios, and whatever contraption he uses to reach #3 left it vulnerable to cracking.

My suggestion would be to grab a set of plugs and burn an hour checking the gap yourself and installing them hand tight + 1/2 turn, if only to remove the possibility of over torquing. If another one cracks, that's more evidence it's something else, and we'll owe you an apology.

 

[oddball]

Hey, shit happens. But if I was Jim I'd say "Those internet keyboard jockeys can go stuff themselves"

We've seen arc traces on plugs and signs of insulation failure on the original design two piece boots, and wearing away the electrodes is common. But a break in the ceramic? No.

Another thought, it could've happened when he installed the coil pack, especially if it has the original design boot with the rigid section, and might not even notice. It is annoying to wedge the boot down the #3 hole and he might've gotten a bit, ah, "enthusiastic" with it. I remember futzing with that one several times to find the magic angle that actually worked. Choosing the wrong angle, but with more emotion, would get the boot down the hole but might have collateral damage. That is one nice thing in the revised coils and all the aftermarket coils - a more common all rubber flexible boot.

Tell him I advised you to stop going to an 800lb gorilla for mechanic work.