car is swaying

LSD (Limited Slip Differential) will not help the sliding to one side under heavy acceleration. If anything, it makes it worse. I have a RWD LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and my car slides out to the right when I floor it. alignment is all within parameters and the car tracks beautifully as long as you're not flooring it. It's been doing it since new.
LSDs definitely help with drive-wheel traction management. That is precisely what they are designed to do. The reason why car fish tail under hard accel is because one side bites the road surface harder than the other slipping side. The result is an unbalance torque vector that generates a yawing moment, which pushes the car toward to slipping side. Of course, there are many difference LSD designs and some invariably are better than others. Stinger's clutch pack is pretty basic and far from the most sophisticated. Being mechanical, it will slip before the clutch pack can react and limit the amount of slip. That is just the nature of the beast.

That said, even the best LSD with lightening fast electronic slip detection and predictive algorithm has limits. Given enough torque, they will still slip and slide.
 
I'm gonna chime in because im kinda curious of my own relation to "sway" but im gonna call it a power skid (tire spin) under WOT. Before the jb4 the rear would gradually start to slide around corners, 180-360 turning..Fine you learn the feather technique. After the jb4 under WOT the car is starting to really raise up and slide out right and there is a need to turn the wheel into the slide when in a STRAIGHT LINE acceleration. More HP less traction, but what can I do to limit this slip and slide out to the right when the boost kicks in. Because I dont feel like sway bars are what I want for "cornering" I want to keep the cars rear end straight off the light when you gun it from a dig or slow roll. BMS Diff Brace? Any ideas? This seems kind of normal but wheres my correction when it comes to sticking and traction to reduce this push in the rear?

Trying to avoid the mopar mustang fail of floor it and curb out or hit the wall in 20 feet. The boost is real js...

car is a stinger 19 GT RWD no suspension mods yet.. wheels are 20x8.5 +35 with 245/40 front and 20x10 +40 275/35
 
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I'm gonna chime in because im kinda curious of my own relation to "sway" but im gonna call it slip and slide under WOT. Before the jb4 the rear would gradually start to slide around corners almost like a drift from a stop to go around a corner 180 turning into the turn.. after the jb4 under WOT the car is starting to really slide out right and there is a need to turn into the wheel into the slide when in a STRAIGHT LINE acceleration. More HP less traction, but what can I do to limit this slip and slide out to the right. Because I dont feel like sway bars are what I want for "cornering" I want to keep the cars rear end straight off the light when you gun it from a dig or slow roll. BMS Diff Brace? Any ideas? This seems kind of normal but wheres my correction when it comes to sticking and traction to reduce this push in the rear?

car is a stinger 19 GT no suspension mods yet.. wheels are 20x8.5 +35 with 245/40 front and 20x10 +40 275/35
Stickier tires.

AWD conversion. :sneaky:
 
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I might have that put on my to do list in the future. Good to know it's a direct swap.
I just realized my 1st URL didn't post properly because this forum's editor keeps inserting "(Limited Slip Differential)" every time it sees "LSD". Absolutely annoying. Here is the link but with the letters reversed to prevent the auto insert:

"https://genesisowners.com/genesis-forum/threads/differential-oil-and-additive-for-dsl.38084/page-2#post-513103"

Copy and paste the link into your browser and reverse DSL back to the correct spelling. There is more details in this URL.
 
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With that wide of a tire/wheel combo I would get Megan camber and toe arms for the rear and have them set for a little less than OE spec. A Burger diff brace wouldn't hurt either

You should have the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) on the 2020 AWD, could also help to put in fresh diff oil.
I just put all the Megan parts on my car and it is doing the same thing as he is describing. I took it for an alignment right after install as it immediately required it. Toe was was out on LR and a ton of negative camber in the RR. Looking at the car from the side the LR is visibly further forward in the wheel well than the RR. I haven't got a tape measure out to check, but I'm sure it is.
Does anyone have the recommendations for settings?
I'm also wondering what the best place to order all brand new front suspension components as well as I have some noises going on and am approaching 120,000 miles.
TIA for any advice.
 
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