Badge change gone wrong.....

Thanks for the replies. It turned out ok. We had to put the GT/AWD badges back on after the touch up as it was noticeable. It looks good but you can tell there was a touch up in the small gap between the badges. You have to very close to see it though. The E logo on the front and the script Stinger on the back makes this car look so much better! KIA definitely should have shipped this way from the factory! I also did the E wheel covers too, car looks amazing
 
Please, do NOT USE HEAT
This echoes all the best advice I've read on this absurd topic throughout last year. Just set your car in the direct sun during a nice, hot day and let everything get soft; then go to work with fishing line or the like. I'm not saying that is how it's done "right"; only that this method has produced the least failures, according to those reporting back here. And if I were ever going to replace any badges, that's how I would do it, if I decided to "Me do it meself."
 
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Please, do NOT USE HEAT
...........depends where you live ..............:whistle::whistle::whistle::) and what time of the year it is .........
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Used Goof Off on baked enamel of refrigerator door handle that got some paint overspray--was very careful but it softened the enamel and ended up removing the handle and repainting. Have used orange oil based product with great success on house paint spatters, just don't get overly aggressive. Goof off works great for paint on ceramic tile or glass.
 
WD40 is a good mild solvent and also helps control heat while you cut thru the adhesive. It's also easy to apply directly to where you are working.
 
I get it now: it is good quality paint on the Stinger, but the badge adhesive is the best around; even their own paint sometimes doesn't hold up and loses the tug of war. I am not being facetious. Putting badges on before the paint is fully cured/dry is an assertion only. Super powerful adhesive is all the explanation needed. That is actually a good thing. But it would be nice to know beforehand! I'm sure a pro who screws up a customer's paint getting Kia badges off would agree!
So good :)
 
Why is that? I used a heat gun on my emblems and it worked great for removing the badges and left over residue. You just have to know what you're doing.

Zero paint chips when I removed the emblems.

KIA did not have the best paint adhesion standards on Stingers. It would appear they didn't prep, or used the wrong primer. When heated, the paint would simply lift off the bumpers. Not really an issue with other brands, as I have used heat guns before. Stingers seem to have an issue when heat is applied and the the badge is pried off the paint.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
KIA did not have the best paint adhesion standards on Stingers. It would appear they didn't prep, or used the wrong primer. When heated, the paint would simply lift off the bumpers. Not really an issue with other brands, as I have used heat guns before. Stingers seem to have an issue when heat is applied and the the badge is pried off the paint.
again I think the issue is the substrate being fiberglass vs metal............and applying too much heat,too close , too long ...............outdoor summer heat would work well too
 
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KIA did not have the best paint adhesion standards on Stingers. It would appear they didn't prep, or used the wrong primer. When heated, the paint would simply lift off the bumpers. Not really an issue with other brands, as I have used heat guns before. Stingers seem to have an issue when heat is applied and the the badge is pried off the paint.
Zero issue here. Just cant let it sit on there obviously. Some heat does wonders when removing any adhesive though.
 
Zero issue here. Just cant let it sit on there obviously. Some heat does wonders when removing any adhesive though.
not everyone is handy ...............I'm a major DIYer and like the challenge of fixing certain things !
 
Zero issue here. Just cant let it sit on there obviously. Some heat does wonders when removing any adhesive though.
The issue is also technique as well as age of the badge on the car.

For me (feb 18 build)... weeks ago I removed the badges. I HAD to use heat (very low heat always moving)... really helped but a ton of adhesive tape still remained (old). Was very hard (literally). Heating softened. People that use too much too close, resulted in bubbling/wrinkling of the paint. Or not using heat lifts the paint when pulling. I also found the fishing line technique didn’t work, actually damaging paint under the badge.

I had the best luck slowly heating on low heat... and using the soft rubber wedges (Loden) to slowly work under the badge. Then using a pry tool between the badge and rubber wedge to finally break the remaining adhesive tape free (still using heat).

Then goo gone.

Granted, if I lived in Arizona, I probably could have left the car in the sun instead of using a heat gun.

I had no patience. It was winter. And I wanted my new badges on right the.
 
One of the glorious side-effects of having my yellow car repainted, was telling them to leave the badges off. :D

Sorry about your issue.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Actually, to those saying don't use heat, the funny opposite is that EXTREME cold can also assist in removing items held by some adhesives. I've been seeing videos of guys putting cell phones into deep freezes capable of something like -165F and the adhesive that holds the glass screen to the LCD comes right apart, easy peasy. Maybe we can deep freeze our emblems and the badges will come right off? LOL
 
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This is what happened today at my local body shop when removing the rear kia badge. They used a heat gun. There were no issues when removing the small “Stinger” badge. Now they are repainting the whole back piece...they also had to replace the GT and AWD logo due to repainting the rear.
 
Oh man, sorry to hear. I wish I would have brought mine straight to an autobody guy to do the badges. To see mine you have to be right up a nose away from the GT emblem and you can see the touch up just a little below it. Anyone know for sure if this is a fiberglass panel?
 
B83C0BC8-24C4-497C-A61A-1361C6DD7466.webp Yeah, the body shop is covering the cost to repaint the back. Plus the had to order OEM “GT” and “AWD” badges. What a process!
 

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I removed both front and rear badges and stinger badge. I used a hair dryer, not a heat guy. I used a combination of fishing line and soft plastic wedges. Back logo was no problem. Little stinger logo was no problem. Logo in front took a dime sized piece of paint with it. able to cover it up with new badge. Same techniques on all 3. I previously owned a Hyundai Genesis and took of the rear badge with no problem. I think, unfortunately, some of this art and science. Depends on the that individual car paint/primer, the amount of glue, temperature, etc.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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