Auto start/stop works faulty

Denzel Ward

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Hi all, so somehow my auto start/stop function started to work faulty. It turns on the stop when I'm braking, but starting like it started the car first time in a day, with push from the back(transmission i guess) and not detected key. Error disappears after 4 secs. No error codes, nothing. Feels like I'm just starting the car on D that's why there is a hard push. Any solutions?
 
Are you saying that the car shuts off while you're actively braking the car (still rolling)?
 
Are you saying that the car shuts off while you're actively braking the car (still rolling)?
No it shuts off when I'm fully braked, stop works fine, but once I relese my foot it starts the car so hard and pushes right in my ass smh
 
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No it shuts off when I'm fully braked, stop works fine, but once I relese my foot it starts the car so hard and pushes right in my ass smh
The brake should hold until you push the throttle, if it’s lurching are you saying the brake is sticking after you’re giving throttle or just taking off too hard? Try less throttle, post a video if you can as it’s hard to understand what you’re describing.
 
The brake should hold until you push the throttle, if it’s lurching are you saying the brake is sticking after you’re giving throttle or just taking off too hard? Try less throttle, post a video if you can as it’s hard to understand what you’re describing.
no throttle at all, it just pushes when I release my foot. And the car didn't start late in the evening, so might be battery. Inresearched that auto start/stop uses a lot of power of battery
 
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no throttle at all, it just pushes when I release my foot. And the car didn't start late in the evening, so might be battery. Inresearched that auto start/stop uses a lot of power of battery
Actually ISG won't engage in the first place if your battery isn't close to 100% charged.

Your "didn't start" event echoes my current issue. Rarely, so far anyway, the car simply won't turn over. All the dash lights and systems are ON but no engine. I can fiddle with this. I've noticed that when you leave the vehicle, anywhere from a couple of hours to less than two minutes, and try again, the car will start. Last time I randomly opened and closed the driver door after getting back inside, after locking and unlocking with the fob from c. twenty feet away, and yay, it started. I suspect that there might be an interference with ISG system, especially more since reading your post. This has happened three or four times in the year that we've owned the car. Then again, it might be nothing more complex than the start button having a loose connection or otherwise starting to go bad. I have an appointment on the 30th to check this out.
 
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Actually ISG (Idle Stop and Go) won't engage in the first place if your battery isn't close to 100% charged.

Your "didn't start" event echoes my current issue. Rarely, so far anyway, the car simply won't turn over. All the dash lights and systems are ON but no engine. I can fiddle with this. I've noticed that when you leave the vehicle, anywhere from a couple of hours to less than two minutes, and try again, the car will start. Last time I randomly opened and closed the driver door after getting back inside, after locking and unlocking with the fob from c. twenty feet away, and yay, it started. I suspect that there might be an interference with ISG (Idle Stop and Go) system, especially more since reading your post. This has happened three or four times in the year that we've owned the car. Then again, it might be nothing more complex than the start button having a loose connection or otherwise starting to go bad. I have an appointment on the 30th to check this out.
Your intermittent no start sound MUCH MORE like a defective starter solenoid..

All the things you are trying (opening and closing door, locking unlocking) etc... are not related (my opinion).

I had this happen to me, and it got progressively worse. I think I took a video of the failed stating attempt, followed by a successful start... Was ultimately covered under extended warranty.

FOUND THE VIDEO
If you listen closely:
1st attempt - no start.
2nd attempt, open door, (so I could hear the starter better) - you can hear the "click" - no start
3rd attempt - starts like a champ!


This occured about 1nce ever ~7 ish drive cycles, and got progressively more frequent until I had the starter replaced under warranty.

1700352227032.webp
 
Your intermittent no start sound MUCH MORE like a defective starter solenoid..

All the things you are trying (opening and closing door, locking unlocking) etc... are not related (my opinion).

I had this happen to me, and it got progressively worse. I think I took a video of the failed stating attempt, followed by a successful start... Was ultimately covered under extended warranty.

FOUND THE VIDEO
If you listen closely:
1st attempt - no start.
2nd attempt, open door, (so I could hear the starter better) - you can hear the "click" - no start
3rd attempt - starts like a champ!


This occured about 1nce ever ~7 ish drive cycles, and got progressively more frequent until I had the starter replaced under warranty.

View attachment 83273
there is no warranty anymore in my country, so I hope it was just the battery It's gonna charge overnight, I'll update tmr
 
there is no warranty anymore in my country, so I hope it was just the battery It's gonna charge overnight, I'll update tmr
That comment wasn't for you..... It was for the guy I quoted..

I am drafting a response for your issue now
 
No it shuts off when I'm fully braked, stop works fine, but once I relese my foot it starts the car so hard and pushes right in my ass smh
I think I understand exactly what you are describing, and it has happened to me several times, but I have since stopped using ISG completely. I do not like it at all

I believe what you are describing is;

When you drive the car, for the first time in a day (after the car has sat for at least several hours), the first time that ISG shuts off the engine..... Upon releasing the brake pedal, the engine will restart normally (while in drive obviously), but you will feel a strong THUD or PUSH as if the transmission was slammed into drive (as if being rear ended by a small car).

And this behavior typically occurs only once, during the 1st ISG application on the drive cycle after the car has sat for several hours (overnight).

Subsequent ISG applications work normally, for the remainder of the drivecycle.



I did not ever diagnose this issue, and I also don't have the issue anymore because I don't use ISG. (Made this instead)

I 100% believe the issue is transmission related, and NOT AT ALL related to your battery.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Your intermittent no start sound MUCH MORE like a defective starter solenoid..

All the things you are trying (opening and closing door, locking unlocking) etc... are not related (my opinion).

I had this happen to me, and it got progressively worse. I think I took a video of the failed stating attempt, followed by a successful start... Was ultimately covered under extended warranty.

FOUND THE VIDEO
If you listen closely:
1st attempt - no start.
2nd attempt, open door, (so I could hear the starter better) - you can hear the "click" - no start
3rd attempt - starts like a champ!


This occured about 1nce ever ~7 ish drive cycles, and got progressively more frequent until I had the starter replaced under warranty.

View attachment 83273
Thanks. I have heard the "click". Probably what is going on. I'll go with that theory and suggest it when I go in. That is a ridiculously expensive solenoid! Why replace the whole assembly if it was the solenoid?
 
Thanks. I have heard the "click". Probably what is going on. I'll go with that theory and suggest it when I go in. That is a ridiculously expensive solenoid! Why replace the whole assembly if it was the solenoid?
Can't imagine a warranty repair would rebuild a starter just to replace a solenoid within it. Honestly I haven't really seen many starter rebuilds in a long time. Usually most people/places just replace the whole starter.
 
Thanks. I have heard the "click". Probably what is going on. I'll go with that theory and suggest it when I go in. That is a ridiculously expensive solenoid! Why replace the whole assembly if it was the solenoid?
It is not a user serviceable part.

The solenoid is integrated in the starter motor.

EDIT/ADDITION:
The suspected issue is really more about the contacts within the starter motor, the solenoid may operate causing the click, but the dirty or defective contacts in the starter motor are what fail to allow the starter motor to be energized in order to rotate. Technically you could replace the solenoid, but the solenoid is working, the solenoid is causing the audible click. It would be the failed or dirty contacts in the starter motor which are technically the actual fault
 
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Stop Start is not provided on the MY23 Stinger in Australia. Thankfully.

I have this on a new Mazda CX3 though and I hate it. It gets turned off, if we remember each time we leave. If not we find out the next time we stop.

As an electrical guy and a DC Power expert of some decades my thoughts on Stop/Start are these. They are pointless.

Lead Acid batteries go through sudden death. That's when a plate breaks off and there is no start current. It is called sudden death because as the plates corrode, the positive in particular becomes thinner. The last start breaks the plate with the heavy current being drawn through the thinnest part and it breaks causing sudden death, so at the next start there is nothing. You don't know the plate has broken off until the next start as the alternator provides the necessary power to run things. You might at best have an alternator charge light.

Now, the average battery does two starts a day. Some more. Mostly a driver starts it once to go to work and starts it once to go home. This gives the battery about 4 - 5 years worth of starts. Each time a heavy current is drawn by the starter and each time it is put back by the alternator. It is the charge current that actually corrodes the positive plate so more starts you do, the more you have to recharge the battery and the more corrosion occurs.

Now take Stop Start. The car is starting 20,30, 40 100 times a day. Each time the battery is discharged somewhat to start the vehicle and each time it is recharged by the alternator and each time it corrodes the positive plate. This HAS to reduce the life of the battery.

Imagine. You are in the outside lane at a red light in an 80kmh (50mph) zone. The light turns green and your battery has just gone through sudden death at the last red light. Your car does not start and the vehicles approaching behind find you stopped at a green light. Some might get to stop. We have all watched Formula One and what happens when one car does not get off the grid? The first couple of cars get around. The one four or five back cleans up the stationary car.

Now even consider what Stop Start is supposed to do. Save fuel. But what happens when the alternator places increased load on the engine when it charges the battery? It causes the engine to work harder, no different to turning headlights on. It uses More fuel. Start Stop is a ridiculous fuel saving idea, a ridiculous battery saving idea. It's just a stupid idea.
 
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It's just a stupid idea.
The first time I felt it in my brand new Stinger I was sure the engine had died. In a brand new car, WTH? Let off the brake and the engine is back on. And then I got a clue after a couple more times of that. It didn't signify right away, because it didn't happen at each stop light. Once I knew, the feature was turned OFF first thing on startup.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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