I don't think 1mm of titanium will do *that* much. I'd be much more interested in stainless pistons. Check out DRM - Doug Rippie Motorsports - and what he did with corvette caliper pistons. Cool stuff. No idea if anyone is doing that with this style brembo.
And, of course, if the pistons are already stainless then we're already pretty good. Just run good fluid. And add some cooling ducts.
If you are tracking and building up a lot of brake heat. A real high temp fluid and pads may start to show weakness in other areas, lines, caliper piston seals, etc. The shims help to provide a little buffer. I got new track pads and race fluid for my other car, but the high speed stuff is limited to two events and Autocross just isn’t enough to worry about it.
I reached out to KNS brakes, since they sell them:
"Titanium shims will probably help save the dust boots but you have to remember the heat has to go somewhere so I will most likely create more heat in the pads. They should definitely take less heat out of the calipers but it may sacrifice pad life potentially. "
I had the GLoc R10's on for my last track event. burned through probably 40% of the fronts. rears did great. fronts did great too, but I failed to properly bed them in, so pad smear occured both front and rear! The whole second day I just had pulsating brakes. They still worked fine I just hated the pulsing. I have a call into KNS to discuss my next option. I may try GLoc R8 this time. My first track event I was on Hawk HPS 5.0's on the front, and other than using half of the pads, I had no issues. I did baby them a bit as I hadn't upgraded the fluid yet. This time I was much more aggressive with the brakes.
Because they need so much heat, they just weren't bedded in. Apparently it's difficult to do on the street as I went through the same bedding process I did when I got the hawk's. All I really did was remove the transfer layer on the rotors left by the hawks, but got nothing from the R10's on to the rotor at all. They literally looked like I had just turned them, like brand new essentially. Of course read about GLoc's recommended process after the event. I kind of hate the need to devote the first 30 minute track session to bedding the brakes, but that may be the only choice if I can't do it before I get there.
I ordered the DBA t3 4000 rotors too. Supposedly they will be better for heat dissipation, and possibly scrub the pad surface a bit better with the slots? Front rotors are out of stock of course, but I got the rears! Since I'm at the track 4-6 days a year, I'm tempted to get hawks to run on the dba rotors and just have that be my street set-up. I'll get the stock rotors turned for $120, and keep them as back-ups. Honestly may just run them at the track again with the GLoc's. I always have this debate about the car looking good on one hand, and being max performance for the track, on the other hand.
Side note, the dust from the track pads was crazy!!!
still waiting on the front rotors. hopefully soon. the deposits on my stock rotors suck!
I wonder how they can pre-bed the pads. wouldn't they need the rotors and pads together to make that happen? I mean to get a nice transfer layer on the rotors?
Why would you go DOWN from R10 to R8? I started with R12, and used maybe 50% in 5 sessions at Sonoma (Sears Point) last year. Then, I burned through ALL of the rest of them (down to the metal) in ONE day at Laguna Seca (Weathertech / Mazda / Infineon / etc). More braking, more straights..
I'm now going to R16s for this time around. Paid the $20 for "burnishing".
Anyone know where one can order the DBA fronts? I went with R-concepts, but seems like that was as cheap or cheaper than OEM - getting horrible ringing even with the G-Loc street (Carbotech Bobcat) pads. Am going to need to shave the pads a little at the edges soon..
probably burnishing, which may aid the bedding process I guess. Honestly I'm going to try the Hawk HPS 5.0's, with the DBA rotors for the street, and then have another conversation re track day pads. the track I'm going to has two really heavy brake zones, like 140 mph down to 40 mph, the rest of the turns are all much shorter braking events. My first two days was on stock rotors, stock rear pads, Hawk HPS 5.0 front pads, and stock fluid, and it was fine, no issues with deposits, brake fade, etc. etc. Whatever happens I'm just trying to avoid using my first 30 minute session as a brake bedding exercise.
