Aftermarket front under-tray replacement

globalrebel

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So, I know a lot of us all hate the damn flimsy front skid tray/under tray that always seems to flip under itself and cause headaches.

I know that there is an already available option from aFE or something, but that is like $500?!?!

I reached out to this company in Vegas, Nevada and they can actually get one created for us for around $200. But, to do this, they will require a dummy vehicle. I don't live in NV so I figured I would post this out here to see if anyone might be interested or available to assist?

I'm sure the company will give a steep discount (if not free) to the person who provides the test fitment car.

Is anyone available that would be willing to reach out to the company and discuss what it would like like to get this done for everyone?

Company : TollBoothWilly www.TBWperformance.com

They make it all out of Stainless steel.
 
So, I know a lot of us all hate the damn flimsy front skid tray/under tray that always seems to flip under itself and cause headaches.

I know that there is an already available option from aFE or something, but that is like $500?!?!

I reached out to this company in Vegas, Nevada and they can actually get one created for us for around $200. But, to do this, they will require a dummy vehicle. I don't live in NV so I figured I would post this out here to see if anyone might be interested or available to assist?

I'm sure the company will give a steep discount (if not free) to the person who provides the test fitment car.

Is anyone available that would be willing to reach out to the company and discuss what it would like like to get this done for everyone?

Company : TollBoothWilly www.TBWperformance.com

They make it all out of Stainless steel.
Let's just back up a little bit :)

It is not a "damn flimsy front skid tray/under tray that always seems to flip under itself and cause headaches"

It is there purely for aerodynamics. It was never meant to be undercover protection for the vehicle

Go back a few years and no car had anything.

The only people who put sump covers on were those in 4WDs going bush bashing.

Glad to see that you are encouraging manufacture of after market items that may be useful to anyone wanting to go do that. Kia, designing a sports car and testing it at Nurburgring obviously didn't see any need for it

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1759881210198.webp
 
So, I know a lot of us all hate the damn flimsy front skid tray/under tray that always seems to flip under itself and cause headaches.

I know that there is an already available option from aFE or something, but that is like $500?!?!

I reached out to this company in Vegas, Nevada and they can actually get one created for us for around $200. But, to do this, they will require a dummy vehicle. I don't live in NV so I figured I would post this out here to see if anyone might be interested or available to assist?

I'm sure the company will give a steep discount (if not free) to the person who provides the test fitment car.

Is anyone available that would be willing to reach out to the company and discuss what it would like like to get this done for everyone?

Company : TollBoothWilly www.TBWperformance.com

They make it all out of Stainless steel.
Not AFE, it’s FSPE, and we carry it on our website here:
2018-2023 Kia Stinger - FSPE Lightweight Aluminum Front Bumper Skid Plate - K8 Stinger Store

You’re right that the price comes out to over $500 with shipping included, but that’s because shipping for a large, heavy item like this usually runs around $50–$60 across the country, sometimes even more.

Aluminum is lighter than steel, but it’s also more expensive, and in this case, it’s the better material to use. With the current tariffs on steel imports into the US, plus the higher shipping costs due to its extra weight, I find it hard to believe that anyone could realistically sell a similar product all-in for around $200. That seems nearly impossible.

$500+ is definitely a significant investment for a part like this, but it’s a one-time purchase that will last the lifetime of your vehicle, and the quality is truly second to none.

1759890848528.webp
 
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I'll reach out to the company again to see what they charge for shipping and such too.

Just trying to get us a different option to the $500 one available. It may end up being the same situation as well, cheap cost to make, but $$ to ship out.

I did hear back from them and they said the donor car is only needed for maybe 1-2 hours for initial fitment. Then, they have it driven around for a week or two, make adjustments, and then test further and final product if all goes well.

So, its not much investment time if you are in NV already anyway.
 
Just heard back from them and they stated it will be anywhere from $200-300 shipped. Its basically free shipping, and from looking at other cars they do, I can see this being about $250 all said and done.

We just need to find someone in the NV area to drop by and get this done. I would totally do it, but live in CA so just too far of a drive for me.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So you would rather have a heavy plate under your car as protection for the under carriage rather than the original design which is for aerodynamics and obvious "no extra weight" (damn flimsy), get broken due to harsh road treatment ( flip itself underneath and cause headaches) and K8s comment (shipping for a large, heavy item like this usually runs around $50–$60 across the country)......

Great. Achieved the outcome of making the car bullet proof. Maybe some heavy bars down the side then you can take it stock car racing then you wont have to worry about touch up paint.

I look forward to the next season of Formula One, where they attach 200 kg bull bars to the front to stop those pesky (aerodynamic) nose cones falling off. Those damn damn flimsy nose cones that always seem to flip under itself and cause headaches.
 
How the OEM undertray is made is NOT the problem. It is the plastic clips not properly securing the undertray that is the root cause. Most of the time, this happens when you take your car in for service and the tech didn't bother to put all the clips back properly. The owner/driver never bothered to check and went on driving with clips loose or missing. The unsecure undertray flops in the breeze, gradually bend over time and eventually catch something and tear off.

We've got 3 Stingers/G70 with the exact same OEM undertray. I make sure every clip is put back properly every time I remove it. I even bought some slightly oversized clip to replace one where the holes have gotten enlarged over time. So far, my cost is some $20 worth of replacement clips that will far outlast all 3 cars combined.

That said, if your undertray is already FUBAR and needs replacement, an OEM one costing several hundred $$ can be a bitter pill to swallow. An aftermarket tray is not a bad option. But you still need to make sure it is secured properly EVERY TIME, or else it might suffer the same fate as the OEM that got FUBAR'ed in the first place.
 
How the OEM undertray is made is NOT the problem. It is the plastic clips not properly securing the undertray that is the root cause. Most of the time, this happens when you take your car in for service and the tech didn't bother to put all the clips back properly. The owner/driver never bothered to check and went on driving with clips loose or missing. The unsecure undertray flops in the breeze, gradually bend over time and eventually catch something and tear off.

We've got 3 Stingers/G70 with the exact same OEM undertray. I make sure every clip is put back properly every time I remove it. I even bought some slightly oversized clip to replace one where the holes have gotten enlarged over time. So far, my cost is some $20 worth of replacement clips that will far outlast all 3 cars combined.

That said, if your undertray is already FUBAR and needs replacement, an OEM one costing several hundred $$ can be a bitter pill to swallow. An aftermarket tray is not a bad option. But you still need to make sure it is secured properly EVERY TIME, or else it might suffer the same fate as the OEM that got FUBAR'ed in the first place.
Am I only one, whos car fronts retracts so much on heavy breaking that front limp/bumper, (and so undertray) is rubbing against the road? I've done it maybe 3 times in a year of having stinger. One was panic stop at 160mk/h, one was on snowy downhill and another was slight uphill after downhill. I thought it was reason I was ripping my undertray, yet you say clips were not properly attached?
 
I concur with @Volfy. Only damage or improper installation of the undercarriage panels will cause them to fail. The lightweight material is perfectly sound for what it is designed for. As for the "lip" below the bottom grille, I have read on here over the years of that getting pressed down under extreme pressure above 150 MPH. Here's one example of a forum member's car that was moving close to 170 MPH. Later, he said that it happened again, only barely over 150 MPH. But that was probably because damage had been done the first time. I've had my GT1 up to 155 MPH, once only, and nothing happened to the front of the bumper cover. Much less the under tray.
stinger salman lip disassemble.webp
 
How the OEM undertray is made is NOT the problem. It is the plastic clips not properly securing the undertray that is the root cause. Most of the time, this happens when you take your car in for service and the tech didn't bother to put all the clips back properly. The owner/driver never bothered to check and went on driving with clips loose or missing. The unsecure undertray flops in the breeze, gradually bend over time and eventually catch something and tear off.

We've got 3 Stingers/G70 with the exact same OEM undertray. I make sure every clip is put back properly every time I remove it. I even bought some slightly oversized clip to replace one where the holes have gotten enlarged over time. So far, my cost is some $20 worth of replacement clips that will far outlast all 3 cars combined.

That said, if your undertray is already FUBAR and needs replacement, an OEM one costing several hundred $$ can be a bitter pill to swallow. An aftermarket tray is not a bad option. But you still need to make sure it is secured properly EVERY TIME, or else it might suffer the same fate as the OEM that got FUBAR'ed in the first place.
This does remind me of the ridiculous price of parts however.

Not so bad in the States but with a separate importer of Kia in Australia (and we are quite close to Korea in comparison), everyone grabs a margin. I paid $700 for a plastic engine cover that no-one was prepared to own up to after two dealer services.


$525 and $540 each for the front and the rear undercover sections

 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Am I only one, whos car fronts retracts so much on heavy breaking that front limp/bumper, (and so undertray) is rubbing against the road? I've done it maybe 3 times in a year of having stinger. One was panic stop at 160mk/h, one was on snowy downhill and another was slight uphill after downhill. I thought it was reason I was ripping my undertray, yet you say clips were not properly attached?
All 3 of ours are lowered, 2 on coilovers, and We've had no such problems. Being lowered is kind of a lifestyle choice you have to be willing to do what is necessary to avoid f-ing up your undercarriage. You learn to go diagonally over steep driveways and gradient changes. You slow down over speed bumps... etc. Or else, bad things will happen, more than just tearing up your undertray.

If your front lip is slamming on the tarmac when you panic stop from any speed, your suspension is not tuned properly. Sounds like you're lowered too much, with springs that aren't proportionally stiffer to compensate for the reduction in suspension travel, and/or your shocks are too soft (underdamped) for your setup. None of that is the fault of the undertray, or even the clips. Neither would any of these aftermarket undertray options help you in the long run. You're still gonna tear it up sooner or later.

Besides, if your suspension is that soft, it is probably not adequately stable at higher speed anyway. I would be more concerned about that than your front lip kissing the ground.
 
most likely the damage is from parking stops. I always back in or stop short using the cameras for that reason. Taking the car for a swim is another reason they fail.

note that the rear section of the underpanel might be different between RWD and AWD. Advertise that you are looking for someone in NV as the title and you might get more takers for the measurements.
 
All 3 of ours are lowered, 2 on coilovers, and We've had no such problems. Being lowered is kind of a lifestyle choice you have to be willing to do what is necessary to avoid f-ing up your undercarriage. You learn to go diagonally over steep driveways and gradient changes. You slow down over speed bumps... etc. Or else, bad things will happen, more than just tearing up your undertray.

If your front lip is slamming on the tarmac when you panic stop from any speed, your suspension is not tuned properly. Sounds like you're lowered too much, with springs that aren't proportionally stiffer to compensate for the reduction in suspension travel, and/or your shocks are too soft (underdamped) for your setup. None of that is the fault of the undertray, or even the clips. Neither would any of these aftermarket undertray options help you in the long run. You're still gonna tear it up sooner or later.

Besides, if your suspension is that soft, it is probably not adequately stable at higher speed anyway. I would be more concerned about that than your front lip kissing the ground.
okay, now you sound very scary because I'm on stock suspension. so somethings wrong with mine. I don't feel.it though, it behaves normal for me. but thats another topic, lets not drive this thread to another direction.
 
Despite the price, the FSPE pieces are well-manufactured and fit great. I'll toss the OEM bits on the stock parts pile.
 
okay, now you sound very scary because I'm on stock suspension. so somethings wrong with mine. I don't feel.it though, it behaves normal for me. but thats another topic, lets not drive this thread to another direction.
Sorry, wasn't trying to sound scary. The point I was actually making was that, unless your suspension setup is very messed up, your front end brake dive is likely NOT the main cause. My guess is that your undertray front clips were missing, which caused it to catch wind at high speed and deflect downward... to a point of almost touching ground. All the brake dive did was dip your front end just enough to make the already-low-sagging undertray catch tarmac.

What might have felt to you as the front end smashing down isn't necessarily what had happened.

This "correlation is not causation" happens more often than most folks think.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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