ADD W1 Blow Off Valve

[DT88]

They look cool, but are a Chinese product ( not referencing this due to covid for f off anyone who suggests otherwise ) and is rebranded and sold here. They are in effect, only as trustworthy as any other universal knock off BOV.

ADD W1 catch cans are supposed to be pretty darn good so I imagine their blow off valves would be good.

 

[DT88]

They look cool, but are a Chinese product ( not referencing this due to covid for f off anyone who suggests otherwise ) and is rebranded and sold here. They are in effect, only as trustworthy as any other universal knock off BOV.

Where did you find that info btw? They started in Canada in 2005. You’re telling me that they just go and buy Chinese materials and just slap their logo on it? Having a hard believing that.

 

[SKStinger]

He dropped by my house last week - he told me about the BOV setup & how its adjustable. It goes go whoooooooosh but at your discretion based on what you set it to.

No CEL or running Rich issues.

The adjustment screw on any BOV is not for sound regulation. It’s for ensuring you aren’t getting compressor surge. Lots of information online on how to adjust and why it’s important.

BOV

 

[Jaymorz]

The adjustment screw on any BOV is not for sound regulation. It’s for ensuring you aren’t getting compressor surge. Lots of information online on how to adjust and why it’s important.

BOV

Appreciate the feedback sir! I even looked into the TiAL BOV thread about running the BOV to the intake manifold instead of the solenoid.

Never had to tune/adjust the BOV to a car so this would be new to me.

When I install with the soft setting and tighten until there is no compressor surge sound (or turkey/pigeon noise) is it blatantly obvious during idle? Also is the only way to tell if the BOV is open or closed based on the surge noise? or is there a physical indicator to tell if open/closed

 

[SKStinger]

Appreciate the feedback sir! I even looked into the TiAL BOV thread about running the BOV to the intake manifold instead of the solenoid.

Never had to tune/adjust the BOV to a car so this would be new to me.

When I install with the soft setting and tighten until there is no compressor surge sound (or turkey/pigeon noise) is it blatantly obvious during idle? Also is the only way to tell if the BOV is open or closed based on the surge noise? or is there a physical indicator to tell if open/closed

Depends what type of BOV you have. I don't own this ADD W1 valve but looking at the design i'd say the only way you'll know if it's open at idle is based on sound. The key thing to be aware of is that the adjustment screw's "hard" vs "soft" setting is not for sound but for the tension on the spring within the valve so don't just set it where it sounds the coolest. Set it where it sounds "normal". Where you don't hear surge under boost or leaking at idle. Takes some fiddling but you'll eventually find the sweet spot.

 

[Jaymorz]

Depends what type of BOV you have. I don't own this ADD W1 valve but looking at the design i'd say the only way you'll know if it's open at idle is based on sound. The key thing to be aware of is that the adjustment screw's "hard" vs "soft" setting is not for sound but for the tension on the spring within the valve so don't just set it where it sounds the coolest. Set it where it sounds "normal". Where you don't hear surge under boost or leaking at idle. Takes some fiddling but you'll eventually find the sweet spot.

Yessir! Just read through so many posts both here and on the stingerforum.org forums on someone's initial TiAL BOV install as well as the article mishimoto put out using the QRJ/Q BOV for readings. Think I have a MUCH better handle on the subject matter and the a good feel for the engine system than previous.

I will most likely connect to the solenoid as the instructions have it and also because the unit is adjustable. Unless the combination where I tighten at IDLE and somehow when accelerating it doesn't open either. Don't really see a need to bypass the solenoid and connect to the manifold unless the adjustment range isn't effective.

 

[SKStinger]

Yessir! Just read through so many posts both here and on the stingerforum.org forums on someone's initial TiAL BOV install as well as the article mishimoto put out using the QRJ/Q BOV for readings. Think I have a MUCH better handle on the subject matter and the a good feel for the engine system than previous.

I will most likely connect to the solenoid as the instructions have it and also because the unit is adjustable. Unless the combination where I tighten at IDLE and somehow when accelerating it doesn't open either. Don't really see a need to bypass the solenoid and connect to the manifold unless the adjustment range isn't effective.

Yeah you shouldn't have to bypass the solenoid unless you have the TIAL valve.

 

[gregross]

On the Add W1 website, when you select the 3.3L motor it automatically doubles your order to get 2 BOVs.

So in total it cost 160? Or would it be around 320? For the 3.3L motors?

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

Right now... $305

 

[BEE STINGER]

hey guys, I just purchased the ADD W1 3.3 KIT.. NEED HELP INSTALLING.. Can someone send me some pictures on how it looks after setup as this kit includes vacuum line filters?

 

[Jacques]

hey guys, I just purchased the ADD W1 3.3 KIT.. NEED HELP INSTALLING.. Can someone send me some pictures on how it looks after setup as this kit includes vacuum line filters?

Here you go! If I remember right, I cut the lines to around the same length as the stock lines.

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

 

[Macho1986]

I ran mine like this but I'm not getting the sound I want...mine sound like a vacuum unless I really go fast m let go of the pedal than I hear the sound I want anyone knows why I don't get that air sound constantly????

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

How many turns are they set to?

 

[Macho1986]

How many turns are they set to?

I did not mess with screw up top I just installed them

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

I did not mess with screw up top I just installed them

3 guesses as to the source of your previous post...

1. Yours do not appear to be set the same.
2. The passenger side may be too many turns in.

I would back them to (nearly) full out. Then mark TDC with a Sharpie on both screws. Run them in about 3 turns and lock them down. Ensure the piston stays closed under idle/light throttle conditions. Try it out and adjust as necessary.

Also, note that you don't want "that air sound constantly". It's a pressure relief valve not a vent.

 

[KDM Harley]

3 guesses as to the source of your previous post...

1. Yours do not appear to be set the same.
2. The passenger side may be too many turns in.

I would back them to (nearly) full out. Then mark TDC with a Sharpie on both screws. Run them in about 3 turns and lock them down. Ensure the piston stays closed under idle/light throttle conditions. Try it out and adjust as necessary.

Also, note that you don't want "that air sound constantly". It's a pressure relief valve not a vent.

“Pressure relief valve not a vent” thank you.