3.3TT Acceleration=Car pulls left, deceleration=car pulls right. Drivetrain or LSD?

[StungBlueGT2]

I just had my left rear tire changed and when I left the shop I noticed it pulling hard to the left under throttle. As soon as I’d let off the gas it would pull hard to the right, but nice and straight while coasting.

I had a similar issue before my LSD was replaced and it would act the same way but I had other symptoms I don’t have now. Then the car would shutter, whine and wheel hop while turning under throttle, but now I only have the hard pulling left or right.

I’ve read that besides failing LSDs, bad control arms and/or bushings could cause similar pushing & pulling while accelerating & decelerating. I’m hoping someone may have experience with this and has advice or suggestions. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Stinger @ JSC]

If it's a different brand tire that might be causing your issue, IMO of course.

 

[MerlintheMad]

If it's a different brand tire that might be causing your issue, IMO of course.

No, that is real. Even the same tread pattern, with one new tire and the opposite worn, will cause handling issues (or not, depending!).

OP, I'm sorry I can't add anything more than to agree with the mismatched tire possibility. I hope that you pin this down quickly and get a fix!

 

[CBordies]

Following, Im actually going through the exact same thing. My next off day I may be bring her to the dealer to let them take a look at it.

 

[nhcowboy28]

id put money on alignment.

 

[SKStinger]

id put money on alignment.

This. Why did you have to change the one tire? Did you hit something? Perhaps you’re out of alignment now?

 

[Helo58]

I just had my left rear tire changed and when I left the shop I noticed it pulling hard to the left under throttle. As soon as I’d let off the gas it would pull hard to the right, but nice and straight while coasting.

I had a similar issue before my LSD (Limited Slip Differential) was replaced and it would act the same way but I had other symptoms I don’t have now. Then the car would shutter, whine and wheel hop while turning under throttle, but now I only have the hard pulling left or right.

I’ve read that besides failing LSDs, bad control arms and/or bushings could cause similar pushing & pulling while accelerating & decelerating. I’m hoping someone may have experience with this and has advice or suggestions. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I wrote about this a couple of weeks ago ( It has been a tough week in the Stinger. I need encouragement from the faithful. Haha. ) but you described it more specifically than I did. My car didn't do this PRIOR to the LSD replacement but it does it like crazy SINCE the replacement. I would be very interested to see what comes of this post. I could use some info too as it is a bit unsettling when it happens. I have kind of gotten used to it, but it is less than ideal.

For those suggesting that it may be the alignment, I can't speak for @StungBlueGT2 , but I have had the alignment checked (found good) and I spoke with the KIA technician who performed the LSD work. He described the LSD replacement procedure in the shop while we were under my car. He assured me that nothing was done during the procedure that would have affected the rear alignment. He demonstrated the 4 bolt removal of the rear diff, the sliding out of left and right axles, insertion of the new LSD with axles reinserted, then showed me the alignment adjustment points. It made sense to me, but I am no chassis mechanic. Just thought I would pass on what was relayed to me.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

id put money on alignment.

Think so too but not sure why replacing one tire would throw off alignment as it was fine before the change. Could just jacking up the rear left side throw off my alignment?

This. Why did you have to change the one tire? Did you hit something? Perhaps you’re out of alignment now?

Got a big screw in it and the left rear was wearing quicker than the right so I decided to replace it instead of patching.

I’ve since decided to replace both rear tires and the pushing/pulling has lessened but still not 100% gone. I’m going to try a 4-wheel alignment and hope that completely resolves it. If not I’ll have to take it to Kia and see if it’s my control arms or differential is acting up again.

I wrote about this a couple of weeks ago ( It has been a tough week in the Stinger. I need encouragement from the faithful. Haha. ) but you described it more specifically than I did. My car didn't do this PRIOR to the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) replacement but it does it like crazy SINCE the replacement. I would be very interested to see what comes of this post. I could use some info too as it is a bit unsettling when it happens. I have kind of gotten used to it, but it is less than ideal.

For those suggesting that it may be the alignment, I can't speak for @StungBlueGT2 , but I have had the alignment checked (found good) and I spoke with the KIA technician who performed the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) work. He described the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) replacement procedure in the shop while we were under my car. He assured me that nothing was done during the procedure that would have affected the rear alignment. He demonstrated the 4 bolt removal of the rear diff, the sliding out of left and right axles, insertion of the new LSD (Limited Slip Differential) with axles reinserted, then showed me the alignment adjustment points. It made sense to me, but I am no chassis mechanic. Just thought I would pass on what was relayed to me.

My replacement has been good overall but it has pushed more under throttle since the new one. Not sure why and I’ve gotten used to it too, but since the tire was replaced it was significantly worse.

I do think my LSD is more sensitive now and pushes more power to one wheel easier & quicker than my first defective one so maybe it’s just over adjusting and the different tire exaggerated that effect.

 

[Legendsk]

Not on my Stinger, but I had this problem on a car with all independent suspension and limited slip differential. Mine turned out to be a broken belt in a radial tire. Swapped tires until culprit established. Replaced that one, problem went away. Since the OP problem started with a new tire in the system, it seems like a possibility.

 

[Helo58]

@StungBlueGT2 , well, I found the cause of MY squirminess from the rear-end after my LSD replacement. The upper arm of the left rear suspension came completely detached today. The car was almost uncontrollable over speeds of 55 or so. It is my suspicion that the bolt was loose during the initial play in the rear of the car and when the bolt was gone (today), the movement was CRAZY during acceleration, bumps, and deceleration. If you are still having this issue, please check ALL of the rear suspension links on both sides. The service tech's mouth dropped when we lifted the car and saw the the bolt was missing and the arm was about 4 inches above the link. The left rear tire was cambered in at the top after the bolt failed/ fell out. Very sketchy driving it to the shop, so be careful until you have it checked out if you are still having the problem.



Also, if you know the procedure or can get the official procedure from the Kia Stinger RWD GT, I would like to see it. I need to see if this could have happened during the LSD swap or it is came from the factory like this, or if it is just bad luck. I would find it coincidental at least that those with the squirminess in the rear suspension were in cars with the LSD issues. May be correlation, may be causation.

 

[SKStinger]

@StungBlueGT2 , well, I found the cause of MY squirminess from the rear-end after my LSD (Limited Slip Differential) replacement. The upper arm of the left rear suspension came completely detached today. The car was almost uncontrollable over speeds of 55 or so. It is my suspicion that the bolt was loose during the initial play in the rear of the car and when the bolt was gone (today), the movement was CRAZY during acceleration, bumps, and deceleration. If you are still having this issue, please check ALL of the rear suspension links on both sides. The service tech's mouth dropped when we lifted the car and saw the the bolt was missing and the arm was about 4 inches above the link. The left rear tire was cambered in at the top after the bolt failed/ fell out. Very sketchy driving it to the shop, so be careful until you have it checked out if you are still having the problem.

View attachment 37025

Also, if you know the procedure or can get the official procedure from the Kia Stinger RWD GT, I would like to see it. I need to see if this could have happened during the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) swap or it is came from the factory like this, or if it is just bad luck. I would find it coincidental at least that those with the squirminess in the rear suspension were in cars with the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) issues. May be correlation, may be causation.

Yikes! Is that a deep groove on the inner side of your rotor? Perhaps from the bolt or arm rubbing on it?

 

[Dennis]

Seems like a job poorly carried out. Replacement of the rear Diff requires removal of lower arms. The diff removal will require removal of 4 bolts which are in turn bolted to the subframe and in order to slide the rear axle out will also require partial removal of control arms. Meaning alignment is a must!

 

[Helo58]

Yikes! Is that a deep groove on the inner side of your rotor? Perhaps from the bolt or arm rubbing on it?

I think that the part you are looking at is the inner surface of the rear wheel rather than the disc. From my quick look at it, there did not appear to be any contact with the wheel. Here is another angle in the proper orientation.

 

[Helo58]

Seems like a job poorly carried out. Replacement of the rear Diff requires removal of lower arms. The diff removal will require removal of 4 bolts which are in turn bolted to the subframe and in order to slide the rear axle out will also require partial removal of control arms. Meaning alignment is a must!

Can you elaborate on which control arms must be partially removed?

 

[Dennis]

Can you elaborate on which control arms must be partially removed?

There are 4 lower arms in total for Stinger. The bottom 3 which includes sway bar link , 1 lower arm, 1 trailing arm and 1 assist control arm will need removal. Once these are removed you will be able to shift the hub carrier to remove the axle. If you are to hoist up the car you will notice the 3 sets of arm that needs to be remove. Important note not to remove rear sub frame as much as possible as this will cause similar push pull effect due to thrust angle. Usually this require experience tech to fine tune.

 

[Helo58]

There are 4 lower arms in total for Stinger. The bottom 3 which includes sway bar link , 1 lower arm, 1 trailing arm and 1 assist control arm will need removal. Once these are removed you will be able to shift the hub carrier to remove the axle. If you are to hoist up the car you will notice the 3 sets of arm that needs to be remove. Important note not to remove rear sub frame as much as possible as this will cause similar push pull effect due to thrust angle. Usually this require experience tech to fine tune.

Thanks for your help and input. The GIS information (taken from remove Driveshaft and Axle) another poster put up shows that the upper arm also needs to be disconnected (shown below). If the procedure is done by the shop manual, would the part shown in my photo (post #13) be removed?

 

[Helo58]

It also appears that from my photos, the bolt hole is threaded. I will have to ensure that they inspect that piece for damage. I would hate to think that they would just put another bolt in a wallowed out hole and call it done, but I have seen stranger things in my lifetime...

 

[SKStinger]

I think that the part you are looking at is the inner surface of the rear wheel rather than the disc. From my quick look at it, there did not appear to be any contact with the wheel. Here is another angle in the proper orientation.

View attachment 37044

Totally! I see it now, it was the inner barrel of the wheel, not the rotor! Good thing!

 

[StungBlueGT2]

@StungBlueGT2 , well, I found the cause of MY squirminess from the rear-end after my LSD (Limited Slip Differential) replacement. The upper arm of the left rear suspension came completely detached today. The car was almost uncontrollable over speeds of 55 or so. It is my suspicion that the bolt was loose during the initial play in the rear of the car and when the bolt was gone (today), the movement was CRAZY during acceleration, bumps, and deceleration. If you are still having this issue, please check ALL of the rear suspension links on both sides. The service tech's mouth dropped when we lifted the car and saw the the bolt was missing and the arm was about 4 inches above the link. The left rear tire was cambered in at the top after the bolt failed/ fell out. Very sketchy driving it to the shop, so be careful until you have it checked out if you are still having the problem.

View attachment 37025

Also, if you know the procedure or can get the official procedure from the Kia Stinger RWD GT, I would like to see it. I need to see if this could have happened during the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) swap or it is came from the factory like this, or if it is just bad luck. I would find it coincidental at least that those with the squirminess in the rear suspension were in cars with the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) issues. May be correlation, may be causation.

Wow And thanks for the info. I did get a 4-wheel alignment and it helped a little more, but at certain times it still pushes more than it used to. I do feel it could be a loose suspension bolt as that makes sense on why it sometimes is more noticeable than others. I'll keep an eye on it and take it to the shop if it gets any worse.

I dont know the exact procedure, but my Stinger drove fine before I got my new diff so id bet yours is related to the diff replacement and just too coincidental.

 

[Helo58]

Wow And thanks for the info. I did get a 4-wheel alignment and it helped a little more, but at certain times it still pushes more than it used to. I do feel it could be a loose suspension bolt as that makes sense on why it sometimes is more noticeable than others. I'll keep an eye on it and take it to the shop if it gets any worse.

I don't know the exact procedure, but my Stinger drove fine before I got my new diff so id bet yours is related to the diff replacement and just too coincidental.

I'm not much of an alarmist, but it wouldn't hurt to have them check the bolts just as a precaution. This bolt in particular. The behavior of the car after this bolt came out was very dangerous. It behaved in a similar manner as before the bolt came out (loose) but the behavior was magnified GREATLY after it came out.

I, too, think it is related to the differential swap. As you said, it is too coincidental otherwise... I was hoping that you would reply. I made it a point to go back and look to see if others were affected and I remembered you and another had a similar problem. The explanation by @oddball in another related thread explains why the car handles like it does with this loose or missing.