2021 Kia stinger gt1 overboost

So your saying the jb4 alone can fix my problem and that I don’t need waste gate wires?.
My car was hitting 18-20 psi on cold days. I wonder if all stingers with bolt ons on the stock tune are over boosting. Or maybe our stingers are just really sensitive
 
So your saying the jb4 alone can fix my problem and that I don’t need waste gate wires?.
No. Without the wires the JB4 won't have any control over the wastegate duty cycle.

I'm not going to tell you to tune your car solely for this...or for any reason. I didn't get the JB4 just to resolve this issue, I was already planning on it, or some form of tuning for my car. It just so happens that the JB4 with the EWG wires helped fix my unexpected overboosting issue. There are other considerations to keep in mind if you decide to go get a tune or piggyback like a JB4, regardless of why you get it, that you need to keep in mind.
 
No. Without the wires the JB4 won't have any control over the wastegate duty cycle.

I'm not going to tell you to tune your car solely for this...or for any reason. I didn't get the JB4 just to resolve this issue, I was already planning on it, or some form of tuning for my car. It just so happens that the JB4 with the EWG wires helped fix my unexpected overboosting issue. There are other considerations to keep in mind if you decide to go get a tune or piggyback like a JB4, regardless of why you get it, that you need to keep in mind.
Ok gotchu and I understand reguardless I was planning on getting a jb4 before this issue. I’m just more in a rush to get it lol. I already ordered it and with denso 1 step colder plugs just need my Bluetooth kit and waste gate wires. But what else do I need to keep in mind ?...... worse comes to worse if problem still persist I will remove everything and take the car in for diagnostics but that’s my last resort I hate dealerships
 
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For me, a JB4 with EWG wires and dialing back wastegate duty cycle helped a lot.
Playing "devil's advocate", manage these settings with "care"......without proper monitoring, could lead to a whole slew of new issues that may be more severe.
 
Playing "devil's advocate", manage these settings with "care"......without proper monitoring, could lead to a whole slew of new issues that may be more severe.
These are the only settings I've felt the need to alter, and I do so in small increments, give the car time to adjust, and go get a couple of logs and look them over. If I see something that doesn't make sense or an unexpected change, I email BMS with the logs.
 
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Ok so when monitoring logs what should one look out for I’m coming from a 350 whp Subaru wrx so a tuned stinger is a whole new balll game for me appreciate the feed back guys
 
If I see something that doesn't make sense or an unexpected change, I email BMS with the logs.
At the end of the day, you are doing the right thing by emailing BMS your logs. They are the experts.....
From my log experience, mostly unusual timing changes. AFR a big one also but mostly at WOT.
 
I got same issue, apparently overboosting in cold weather... Only got sdp and catback installed. I had a 2018 and wiped her like i stole it each day.



I havent put on my other mods since i thought of babying and t this winter but t did the jb4 fix your problems? I havent installed it and my dealer knows about my 2018 history of racing so i want to make 100% sure it aint anything else before putting my mods on. Thanks for input
 
I got same issue, apparently overboosting in cold weather... Only got sdp and catback installed. I had a 2018 and wiped her like i stole it each day.



I havent put on my other mods since i thought of babying and t this winter but t did the jb4 fix your problems? I havent installed it and my dealer knows about my 2018 history of racing so i want to make 100% sure it aint anything else before putting my mods on. Thanks for input
I ordered my jb4 and sparkplugs and Bluetooth adapter I still have to order my fuel wire adapter and ewg wires and I don’t plan installing till later this summer time . Another member on the forum stated with ewg wires you are able to dial them back a bit in the winter time so u don’t over boost
 
If i could i would go get a supra gr for sure! But i would want the stinger too for all the things it does that a supra cannot. Ill stick with my 240sx for my fun car ^_^
 
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I feel like my car is having similar issues. I’ve had CAI and borla and ark downpipes for a few months now and just recently dropped below 10 degrees this week and I would accelerate hard and my car would go limp mode and it even threw a check engine light which a day later and it’s gone.

I was planning on getting the JB4 and new spark plugs next anyways, but what do the waste gate wires do and how do you install/dial back, is there any tutorials?
 
I was planning on getting the JB4 and new spark plugs next anyways, but what do the waste gate wires do and how do you install/dial back, is there any tutorials?
The JB4 has up to 4 connection points. The two required connections are to the MAP and TMAP sensors. This will provide basic control. By default, the JB4 comes preset to MAP1, which requires 91 octane.
In addition, if you want to set to other maps, then you need one of the connect kits, either the hard wired one for use with a laptop, or the bluetooth one with mobile app on a phone.
Also with the unit comes a CANBUS OBD2 wire that you can run to the OBD2 port under the dash by your left knee. This give you more data and logging via the connect kits, but is not required unless you want the capability.
Lastly, it comes with two fuel control wires (both are used for the 3.3t, for the 2.0t, only one is used) that can be tapped in to the O2 sensor wires to let it tweak the mixture at or near WOT because they have found they can get a little more power over the stock A/F ratio. Again, these are not necessary, the box will sense this and work appropriately. If you are worried about tapping into your stock wiring, especially if you want to remove it and leave no trace, they sell (separately) adapter wires that you can tap the fuel control wires into and they plug-n-play in between the original O2 wire and the connector just behind the intake manifold.
 
The JB4 has up to 4 connection points. The two required connections are to the MAP and TMAP sensors. This will provide basic control. By default, the JB4 comes preset to MAP1, which requires 91 octane.
In addition, if you want to set to other maps, then you need one of the connect kits, either the hard wired one for use with a laptop, or the bluetooth one with mobile app on a phone.
Also with the unit comes a CANBUS OBD2 wire that you can run to the OBD2 port under the dash by your left knee. This give you more data and logging via the connect kits, but is not required unless you want the capability.
Lastly, it comes with two fuel control wires (both are used for the 3.3t, for the 2.0t, only one is used) that can be tapped in to the O2 sensor wires to let it tweak the mixture at or near WOT because they have found they can get a little more power over the stock A/F ratio. Again, these are not necessary, the box will sense this and work appropriately. If you are worried about tapping into your stock wiring, especially if you want to remove it and leave no trace, they sell (separately) adapter wires that you can tap the fuel control wires into and they plug-n-play in between the original O2 wire and the connector just behind the intake manifold.
Thanks and another question if I install the JB4 and bring it in the dealer for a warranty claim, if I unplug everything is there a way they can tell I had one installed or not?
 
Thanks and another question if I install the JB4 and bring it in the dealer for a warranty claim, if I unplug everything is there a way they can tell I had one installed or not?
Supposedly if you unplug everything and leave no trace, then no, you can’t tell it was there.
Most people attach the jb4 to the top of the fuse box cover with Velcro, which by itself would leave evidence something was there, even if you remove the Velcro, it might leave residue. I doubt a dealer is going to be able to directly prove anything though.
I bought a spare fuse box cover I attached the jb4 too so I just swap the cover out
 
Supposedly if you unplug everything and leave no trace, then no, you can’t tell it was there.
Most people attach the jb4 to the top of the fuse box cover with Velcro, which by itself would leave evidence something was there, even if you remove the Velcro, it might leave residue. I doubt a dealer is going to be able to directly prove anything though.
I bought a spare fuse box cover I attached the jb4 too so I just swap the cover out
Ok thanks. I’ve brought car in for an oil change with K&N intakes and downpipes and cat back and they didn’t say anything. So I think my dealership will be ok. They aren’t too strict, one of the salesman has a modded out stinger
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ok thanks. I’ve brought car in for an oil change with K&N intakes and downpipes and cat back and they didn’t say anything. So I think my dealership will be ok. They aren’t too strict, one of the salesman has a modded out stinger
Yeah, I think they assume many people mod them, as long as it isn’t egregious.
Something like a jb4 which they state all over their website and such is for racing purposes is probably over the top if it were left on for the dealer to see
 
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Thanks and another question if I install the JB4 and bring it in the dealer for a warranty claim, if I unplug everything is there a way they can tell I had one installed or not?
Just to add.....I always schedule service appts. a day or so ahead. That way, I can set the JB4 to map0, unplug it, and drive a day-ish before it goes to the dealer. So far, no questions asked. After I get it back home, plug the unit back up, set the map, and off I go.....I don't have anything on mine but K&N filter so once the jb4 is off, looks like it did when i bought it.
 
No. Without the wires the JB4 won't have any control over the wastegate duty cycle.

I'm not going to tell you to tune your car solely for this...or for any reason. I didn't get the JB4 just to resolve this issue, I was already planning on it, or some form of tuning for my car. It just so happens that the JB4 with the EWG wires helped fix my unexpected overboosting issue. There are other considerations to keep in mind if you decide to go get a tune or piggyback like a JB4, regardless of why you get it, that you need to keep in mind.
kinda off topic but i have the EWG wires as well, did you change anything in the JB4 user settings for these or just leave it all alone? All the info i can find seems to be for old firmware, im on firmware 21
 
kinda off topic but i have the EWG wires as well, did you change anything in the JB4 user settings for these or just leave it all alone? All the info i can find seems to be for old firmware, im on firmware 21
So I've done more digging and looking at logs, and my car isn't overboosting...not really. The default overboost trip point for the JB4 is 24psi. Now, while Map2 for my car has on occasion skyrocketed to 21, even touched 22 psi shortly, at times, I've never gotten an actual overboost code with the JB4. What I have seen, however, is that the HPFP can't keep up. I've gotten Fuel Pressure low codes and looking at logs it's shown that if my car goes above 19 or so psi, or stays above 18 for too long, High Pressure fuel pressure drops below the JB4 safety and the car falls flat. Map 2 will do it pretty consistently, and so will map 1. I haven't been able to drive the car for a few weeks but I'd like to say I had FF at 48 or so with WGDC bias at 49 in the mid range. I also made a Map 6 that peaks at 3.5psi and less aggressively tapers closer to redline, I think it's 3psi over at redline. Everything seems fine so far. The answer to the root cause of the HPFP is probably either WMI which I don't want to do, or upgrade the pump. Winter gas may be contributing to this as well, possibly.
 
Thanks for replying my brother and thanks for welcoming me. Today I full throttled a couple of times and the car didn’t overboost and it was a lot warmer out today 50 degrees F .... it seems to me it only over boost when it’s really cold outside . But anyways ima take the intakes of and the secondary cats off and put the stocks back on. I am leaving the borla catback I don’t see how that can cause problems. Better safe than sorry thanks for the input guys
Youre overboosting because the colder the inlet temp is going into the turbo the better they perform, i.e more boost, and the ECU will automatically limp mode due to factory managed software if it reaches a certain value and the ECU is accounting for the extra performance, its just hitting the limiter programed into the software and throwing you into limp mode because of it
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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