2018 GT2 Good Deal?

[BEEK]

I paid $35,800 for my 2018 GT2 AWD in December. 7700 lease cash + 3000 competitive (which I didn't think they were supposed to stack) + dealer discount. That was as low as I could find and I was searching all over the country. I wanted ceramic and red interior and there weren't many left in December. Bought it out of Virginia and had it shipped to Atlanta.

 

[Cj1]

Did you get it for $35,800 o.t.d.? What was it after tax, title, tag, and dealer fees? That is an excellent price.

 

[Jimmer]

I paid $35,800 for my 2018 GT2 AWD in December. 7700 lease cash + 3000 competitive (which I didn't think they were supposed to stack) + dealer discount. That was as low as I could find and I was searching all over the country. I wanted ceramic and red interior and there weren't many left in December. Bought it out of Virginia and had it shipped to Atlanta.

This is for a lease, right?

 

[BEEK]

Did you get it for $35,800 o.t.d.? What was it after tax, title, tag, and dealer fees? That is an excellent price.

That did not include TTL. That varies quite a bit by state. And it is a lease but I am leaving toward buying it out.

 

[Cj1]

Still an excellent price, and one that is attainable for others hopefully. I did a 3 year balloon for my extra incentives/discounts, I have a balance of $18,400, but only due to 20k in trade equity. So figure $38400 out the door and around $37,245 before. No taxes due to trade-in. $72mn for 3 years and $18,400 balloon at end. Just waiting for Kia financial to post account so I can buy it out for 72mn at 4.85% with no penalties. Gonna put down $3400 to make it 15k financed for about a $240mn payment. Hope to pay it off in a year. Got rid of 2 vehicles I didn't drive, but had full coverage and payments on. Free'd up $700 a month. Gives me a little breathing room. My goal this year is to sock away as much money as I can.

 

[MCR1978]

I ended up purchasing (lease/buyout) a 2019 GT2 AWD Panthera Metal today after going through several dealers.

MSRP: $53,867 (includes remote start)
Discounted Price: $49,000
Lease Cash: $8,200
Plus ttl (no bs fees)

Love the car and its the best price I could get.

 

[Cj1]

How does a lease buyout work compared to a retail sale with 3 year balloon at end? Main question is, are there fees, taxes, or extra costs at end of lease to buyout/refinance? There is not with balloon, nor are there any penalties. So if you paid $40,800 for your car and wanted to buy it out tomorrow or in 3 years would it cost you only 40,800 tomorrow, or the 40,800 less the payments made over the period of lease until buy out?

For example, on my retail balloon deal, I financed $18,430 ($72mn for 36mn and 18,430 due at end). As soon as it got funded through Kia, I went to a financial institution of my choice and refinanced it immediately. There were no penalties and I refinanced the $18,430 for 72 months putting $3200 down, putting payments at $243mn.

 

[GenesisG70]

I understand discounts on the total price of the car but can someone please explain what is rebates? Is that money that Kia gives you back? if thats try why would Kia give you money back? thank you in advance.

 

[GenesisG70]

Can someone explain this rebate thing? is that an addition discount to the MSRP?

 

[Cj1]

You have discounts from the dealership first. That is the money discounted off MSRP that the dealer is willing to move. They also have what are called holdbacks. Hold back is money the dealer has from Kia to help cushion the sale. They can give this discount to the customer to help sell the unit if needed. Most customers dont know about holdbacks.

Then comes in rebates/incentives. Rebates and incentives DO NOT come from dealership, but from auto manufacturer. Meaning it is no less of profit to the dealer to give these to customers because it is not there money. Most will try to pull the wool over customers eyes and act like its them that are moving off MSRP when it's not. I always tell dealers if they try any sh^t I'm out. Then I buy the car from someone who was eager to make a sale to make numbers and share my experience with the dealership and sales staff of the dealership that didn't sell me the car. Actually talked someone into quitting because their sales management team cost them an easy sell and commission, they quit right in front of me.

There should always be a negotiation of at least a 5% move off MSRP before any rebates, incentives, come into the picture.

Invoice pricing is BS. Dealers do not pay invoice for their units, they pay under.

Lastly, know the value of your trade if you have it, and know the dealer is going to try to buy it as cheap as they can. I've seen trade appraisals jump as much as $4000 from original eval. I've seen dealers over allow on trades to make a deal, paying more than the trade is worth.

It's all a numbers game. They can show you the same deal 3 different ways by putting numbers in different columns. Know what you want before you walk in, do your research. Just because one dealer wont meet your deal, that doesnt mean there isn't one out there that wants or needs to move units due to slow sales month. End of month is the best time to buy. I find best deals in end of December and August.

If you negotiate the deal first, then let them evaluate your trade, they are more likely to show you ACV or actual cash value for your car. Dont lie to them, tell them you have a trade but want to work the deal first to keep everything on the up and up.

There is no need to see your car, no need to give them the keys so you can be held hostage until numbers are worked on the unit you're interested in. No need to fill out a credit app until numbers are right all the way around, including your trade.

They will most likely hold a little back on the deal if you tell them you have a trade but want to work the deal first. Remember that. It allows you to ask for more on your trade when they come in with a buy figure. Always keep asking. I've seen deals change thousands of dollars in minutes. Sometimes it takes days, so dont be afraid to walk out. Just let them know you will be buying a new car from someone before the week is out. Then tell them, if they call you back, it better be substantial different and give you the warm and fuzzies after wasting time there.

 

[GenesisG70]

You have discounts from the dealership first. That is the money discounted off MSRP that the dealer is willing to move. They also have what are called holdbacks. Hold back is money the dealer has from Kia to help cushion the sale. They can give this discount to the customer to help sell the unit if needed. Most customers dont know about holdbacks.

Then comes in rebates/incentives. Rebates and incentives DO NOT come from dealership, but from auto manufacturer. Meaning it is no less of profit to the dealer to give these to customers because it is not there money. Most will try to pull the wool over customers eyes and act like its them that are moving off MSRP when it's not. I always tell dealers if they try any sh^t I'm out. Then I buy the car from someone who was eager to make a sale to make numbers and share my experience with the dealership and sales staff of the dealership that didn't sell me the car. Actually talked someone into quitting because their sales management team cost them an easy sell and commission, they quit right in front of me.

There should always be a negotiation of at least a 5% move off MSRP before any rebates, incentives, come into the picture.

Invoice pricing is BS. Dealers do not pay invoice for their units, they pay under.

Lastly, know the value of your trade if you have it, and know the dealer is going to try to buy it as cheap as they can. I've seen trade appraisals jump as much as $4000 from original eval. I've seen dealers over allow on trades to make a deal, paying more than the trade is worth.

It's all a numbers game. They can show you the same deal 3 different ways by putting numbers in different columns. Know what you want before you walk in, do your research. Just because one dealer wont meet your deal, that doesnt mean there isn't one out there that wants or needs to move units due to slow sales month. End of month is the best time to buy. I find best deals in end of December and August.

If you negotiate the deal first, then let them evaluate your trade, they are more likely to show you ACV or actual cash value for your car. Dont lie to them, tell them you have a trade but want to work the deal first to keep everything on the up and up.

There is no need to see your car, no need to give them the keys so you can be held hostage until numbers are worked on the unit you're interested in. No need to fill out a credit app until numbers are right all the way around, including your trade.

They will most likely hold a little back on the deal if you tell them you have a trade but want to work the deal first. Remember that. It allows you to ask for more on your trade when they come in with a buy figure. Always keep asking. I've seen deals change thousands of dollars in minutes. Sometimes it takes days, so dont be afraid to walk out. Just let them know you will be buying a new car from someone before the week is out. Then tell them, if they call you back, it better be substantial different and give you the warm and fuzzies after wasting time there.

Thank you this helps to understand!

 

[pantheman75]

I'm trying to work a deal as we speak on a 2018 GT2 AWD... how do you guys feel about this?

• $39,300 for the car in red and with door sill appliques
• $1,000 for bumper applique, cargo net, cargo tray, paint protection package, puddle lights, wheel locks & remote starter
• $1,500 for the 10 year / 100,000 mile / $0 deductible warranty
• + tax / title / license
• 0% financing
• "Private party" value (not "trade value") for my existing car

Fair? Too aggressive? Not aggressive enough?

 

[GenesisG70]

I'm trying to work a deal as we speak on a 2018 GT2 AWD... how do you guys feel about this?

• $39,300 for the car in red and with door sill appliques
• $1,000 for bumper applique, cargo net, cargo tray, paint protection package, puddle lights, wheel locks & remote starter
• $1,500 for the 10 year / 100,000 mile / $0 deductible warranty
• + tax / title / license
• 0% financing
• "Private party" value (not "trade value") for my existing car

Fair? Too aggressive? Not aggressive enough?

Is the 1000 USD included on the 39,300 or in addition to it? Be careful stealers some of the try to add unnecessary stiff like Nitrogen and tinted windows for thousands.

 

[pantheman75]

Is the 1000 USD included on the 39,300 or in addition to it? Be careful stealers some of the try to add unnecessary stiff like Nitrogen and tinted windows for thousands.

It's not.

 

[GenesisG70]

I think is a decent deal not amazing not bad. But really carefully look into the numbers before you sign anything, they can move around numbers.

 

[pantheman75]

Do think I should make it contingent on no additional tax / title / license / fees?

 

[Ucinn]

I think it sounds pretty decent as long as the paint protecion package is a full frontal including full hood.

 

[Cj1]

Bad deal. I got my 18' GT2 for $38,432 out the door in January. It's now the end of February, trust me NO dealer wants these on their lot. Tell you what, I should charge a service fee, just joshin'... but tell me the exact color and if you want AWD ( I personally wouldn't due to no LSD rear) and I can guarantee you $35,500 plus tax, title, tag, and dealer fees for a GT2 AWD. Figure around $38,000usd out the door. Possibly 500 to a thousand less. Thing is, you would have to come to north Florida to get it, or... I'm sure the dealership can work everything out with you via Docusign via email and pay to have the car shipped.
Dont waste money on warranty as you probably wont have the car that long anyway, and if you do, you can buy the warranty at anytime for that price as long as you have 1 mile left on factory warranty, dealers dont tell you this and lie constantly because they make a ton of money when they sell you rim and tire protection, paint and interior protection, and extended warranties. Live with the car for awhile, then decide. And always pay cash for these things after deal is done, never roll it into a loan.
1. Negitive equity
2. If you want to cancel it goes toward P&I and not in your pocket, keeping your car payment the same but lowering principal.
ACV for your car is what you want, if a dealer tells you they can give you private party value, they are over allowing for trade and most likely playing a numbers game moving numbers around from one column to the next. They even have different buyers orders to show you to confuse you due to the way the numbers are presented. Know the bottom line you want, and the terms of finance!
You can get a 19' GT2 for $39,500, why would you buy a 18' for $39,300?
Oh, and depreciation is killer due to an 18 being almost 2 years old come middle spring early summer. No dealer wants these or has the market to sell them on their lots if you decide to trade it in, at least that's what they will say. You might get $34-$35k if you trade it with 1 mile on it the next day, KBB and NADA values are just tools, they will give you wholesale/auction value.

Not talking you out of it, get it, but get a better deal. You want a number of a dealership here in florida, heck, I can give you at least 3 that will bend over backwards and call you their savior for willing to buy a left over 18.

 

[pantheman75]

Bad deal. I got my 18' GT2 for $38,432 out the door in January. It's now the end of February, trust me NO dealer wants these on their lot. Tell you what, I should charge a service fee, just joshin'... but tell me the exact color and if you want AWD ( I personally wouldn't due to no LSD (Limited Slip Differential) rear) and I can guarantee you $35,500 plus tax, title, tag, and dealer fees for a GT2 AWD. Figure around $38,000usd out the door. Possibly 500 to a thousand less. Thing is, you would have to come to north Florida to get it, or... I'm sure the dealership can work everything out with you via Docusign via email and pay to have the car shipped.
Dont waste money on warranty as you probably wont have the car that long anyway, and if you do, you can buy the warranty at anytime for that price as long as you have 1 mile left on factory warranty, dealers dont tell you this and lie constantly because they make a ton of money when they sell you rim and tire protection, paint and interior protection, and extended warranties. Live with the car for awhile, then decide. And always pay cash for these things after deal is done, never roll it into a loan.
1. Negitive equity
2. If you want to cancel it goes toward P&I and not in your pocket, keeping your car payment the same but lowering principal.
ACV for your car is what you want, if a dealer tells you they can give you private party value, they are over allowing for trade and most likely playing a numbers game moving numbers around from one column to the next. They even have different buyers orders to show you to confuse you due to the way the numbers are presented. Know the bottom line you want, and the terms of finance!
You can get a 19' GT2 for $39,500, why would you buy a 18' for $39,300?
Oh, and depreciation is killer due to an 18 being almost 2 years old come middle spring early summer. No dealer wants these or has the market to sell them on their lots if you decide to trade it in, at least that's what they will say. You might get $34-$35k if you trade it with 1 mile on it the next day, KBB and NADA values are just tools, they will give you wholesale/auction value.

Not talking you out of it, get it, but get a better deal. You want a number of a dealership here in florida, heck, I can give you at least 3 that will bend over backwards and call you their savior for willing to buy a left over 18.

WOW. Thanks for this info! Truth be told... if I could find a 19 GT2 AWD in blue for $39,500 I'd jump on that today! Where in the world are people getting that deal?

 

[Cj1]

I can get that deal done at the dealership I bought my 18' GT2 from. I already traded mine in due to issues and it not being the right fit for me. Unfortunately it takes more than a test drive to truly know. Sticker on my 18' was $56 and change because it had all the crap added in like wheel locks, cargo tray and net, paint protection, window tint, pin stripes, lifetime free oil changes, and something else. But I got it for more than $20,000 off sticker. But yes, you can get a 19' GT2 down here for just under $40k+++ with rebates/incentives, coupons, dealer discounts, holdbacks, ect.