2.0 t base AMP upgrade?

It's literally 10 minutes of disassembly to check. Its just what you need to do...
-Remove the rear carpet, floor piece, and the molded piece over the spare tire.
-Flat head screwdriver to carefully pop the two push pins on the rear trim piece, Carefully pull the trim piece up. I believe there are 4 clips that hold it in.
-Remove 3 or 4 screws that hold the right side lining piece in, one of them is behind a plastic plug on top.
-Working from the trunk opening to the top of the seats pop the clips holding the right trunk lining in.
-Voila, a clear view.
-I'm thinking it will be up above the rear fuse box hiding on the back side of a bracket.

If not, I'm sorry. That is where I legitimately thought it would likely be.
 
It's literally 10 minutes of disassembly to check. Its just what you need to do...
-Remove the rear carpet, floor piece, and the molded piece over the spare tire.
-Flat head screwdriver to carefully pop the two push pins on the rear trim piece, Carefully pull the trim piece up. I believe there are 4 clips that hold it in.
-Remove 3 or 4 screws that hold the right side lining piece in, one of them is behind a plastic plug on top.
-Working from the trunk opening to the top of the seats pop the clips holding the right trunk lining in.
-Voila, a clear view.
-I'm thinking it will be up above the rear fuse box hiding on the back side of a bracket.

If not, I'm sorry. That is where I legitimately thought it would likely be.
ok for a novice...( I been around an amp or 2)....can I just tap into the pre amped input to a new amp for a sub?
 
Unfortunately no. there are no typical pre-amp inputs for each channel. The audio is sent from the head unit to the amp via two wires, SFDIF+ & SPDIF- (previously I stated it was over the CAN bus but I now believe that is incorrect) The only option that I know of is to use the line level inputs off of the factory amp and either run them into an amp that can accept line level inputs or run them through a line level converter (LOC) of some type.

With some hardcore work you could possibly solder the SPDIF leads onto a coax connector and find some multi-channel receiver to decode the digital signal and then run those into amps. But to my knowledge that is uncharted territory. Note, by doing this you loose the navigation voice and probably all of the beeps, collision warnings, etc.
 
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last night I had zz top...lagrainge blaring away......I gotta tell ya, it'snot a bad stock radio.....just needs a lil' umpf......thats it.
 
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Just about any moderately priced amp or powered sub (and probably most high end ones) will accept speaker level input. The main possible concern I think you will have is whether the speaker-level output from the factory amp already has the low frequencies rolled off (filtered out). If this is the case, you might not hear as much from your sub as you like, or the output may not be as smooth as you like.

If that happens, you might want to look into a JBL Clean Sweep or similar. This is a type of line output converted that is supposed to remove any sound processing done by the OEM system to send a clean, flat signal to an aftermarket amp.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I've been waiting on someone to do a walk thru on how to hook one up.
at the very least a point in the direction of an amp.....subs are easy...wiring eh, but amps are intimidating, to me.......might see if what a pro will charge seeing as I only want a lil umpf. and not bat shit crazy boom!
 
So I got a few estimates (to farm out the work)....700+ for a sub with the amp built in......just running power and finding the right wires....then there is 1,000+ for a slim sub design (much better)and separate amp.....then ya just know ya gonna throw it in the hatch area....so you lose space.....seems like a bust......wifey says I have the winter to think about it and come tax time if ya wanna pull the trigger go for it......or just buy the sub (w/works) for 300+ and risk doing something stupid....I'm prone to this btw.
 
I been looking around I have the same model and want to add a amp. does it have a amp already? if so where is it located? where are the plug for the speaker wires located? I want to had a little boom
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
kinda why the thread is here.....no one seems to know.
 
"is it possible" we could simply take the HK amp from the GT2/Premium and use that? Similar connectors? HHHmh?
 
Good idea! There is only one way to find out. Need to find someone with the HK system and do a quick test.
The amp only takes a few minutes to get to.
 
isn't the radio itself h-k? as well as the amp?....different speakers? I think it's a completely different system.
 
If you get a signal processor--and you should--it doesn't matter whether there is a factory amp or not. The signal processor take the speaker level signal (whether it's coming from a discrete amp or the factory head unit) and flattens it to a plain signal that an aftermarket amp or powered sub (which basically has an aftermarket amp built in).

With a modern car stereo, you have basically three options that will result in good sound while appearing stock and retaining access to head unit functions:
(1) stock: leave everything alone
(2) add a sub: leave the existing speakers alone and connected as they are, tap the speaker signals to a 2 channel signal processor such as an LC2i, and send it to a sub amp or powered sub
(3) overhaul: tap the speaker signal to a multi channel signal processor such as an LC6i, and send it to aftermarket amps, then replace all the speakers and add a sub if you like.

Anything else will likely end up sounding worse than stock unless you get very lucky or you're okay with uneven frequency response. Aftermarket amps and speakers usually don't sound right without the signal processor because of factory equalization, and might sound terrible or cause damage if the impedance is incompatible.

Option 2 is relatively safe and non-invasive since the battery is in the trunk, avoiding the need to run power cable from under the hood, through the firewall and interior, back to the trunk. If you can locate or research the rear speaker signal wires, it's a simple matter of pulling power from the battery, finding a grounding spot, and finding a trigger wire if needed. However, with all due respect, if this is new to you it may be safer to go with a shop--and even then, it's a safer bet than trying to go any further.

With a car like the Stinger, Option 3 is definitely a tall task to DIY if any of this is news to you. Not only because of the wiring--which will include not only speakers but crossovers--but more because of all the interior work that would need to be done, including panel removal and replacement (to get to the speakers and wiring), mounting fabrication (because the speakers will likely not be a drop-in replacement), crossover tuning (to make sure the right frequencies are coming from the right places at the right volume)--the list goes on. And by the time you pay a quality shop to get this looking and sounding right, you'll wish you bought a Premium or GT1/2 instead.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
option 2 w/shop install....I may bug them w/ pix but it will be done.. But and it's a big BUT...It will not be done until winters end......end of march 2019.
 
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I plan on doing my 2.0 this weekend. I'll do my best to take as many pics as possible, but I'm still looking for more info on a factory amp for the base model.
 
option 2 w/shop install....I may bug them w/ pix but it will be done.. But and it's a big BUT...It will not be done until winters end......end of march 2019.
Well for me life got in the way.....still cranking the stock set up......some day.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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