Sorry this is long! But I thought I'd let folks know what it's like to use the OEM jack kit as well as relate the story!
So I was somewhere around 75+MPH taking an on-ramp onto the local interstate, heavy in the curve, when the info center lit up about a low tire warning. It changed to the display of the car and tire pressures. My passenger rear tire had suddenly dropped to 6psi. I did what I could to slow the car down rapidly, but safely, and get to a safe-ish spot on the side of the road.
Folks I've not had a flat tire, nor a a need to use the OEM jack kit on a car in a number of decades. And I've literally put millions of miles on cars over that time. But I jumped out and got busy - without reading the manual.
The kit's nicely kept in a styrofoam "jig" atop the (50mph max) spare. The scissors-type jack needed to be lowered in order to slide under the car. And there's a slot in the top of the jack that the seam weld fits into between the visible notches inboard of each wheel well. I really wasn't sure how I was supposed to move it once loaded. You fit something into the hole and use that something as a lever to rotate the quarter-to-half-turn, then slide it to the opposite side for the next partial rotation.
Before getting the tire in the air, I used the included lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts. They must have been around proper torque because they came off easily enough with some effort - not like some "mechanics" that torque them on beyond spec. Also, there is a (Phillips??) screwdriver that I used to gently pry off the centercap. I looked to see if any of the spokes of the centercap had a notch that I thought I'd heard someone mention, but didn't see it. So I tried a couple of spokes lightly before one gave me a purchase I liked and it popped off with a small bit of effort.
Jacking her up was slow, but effective. It wasn't very hot and it wasn't raining or snowing, or I'm sure I'd think it was REALLY slow. This is when I made the observation that concerned me a bit. As a scissors-style jack increases in height, it reduces it's width. That forces the lever you're using to move closer and closer to the car (PAINT!). I cupped the lever tool to help prevent banging the car. It takes enough partial rotations to get you in a hurry, bored, etc., and risk being careless. But it was very do-able.
Removed the lugnuts and began to swap for the spare. Here's where I found out I needed more clearance to get the spare on, so I jacked her up the bit more, mounted the wheel, tightened the lugnuts, lowered her, and loaded everything back in the car.
Tire store was less than 10 miles away. They inspected and found a full one inch gash in and through the outermost treadbar. No nail or screw or anything.
VERDICT: Well, the sidewall was trashed on the inside. I'm used to that being the case when a flat is driven on for longer distances. But I'm guessing that the problem here was the immediate deflation. I needed a new tire. Also, the wheel was slightly bent (?!?!), but they declared it safe to hold air and drive on. I got the cheapest same-size AS tire (a Nexxen), paid ($140USD) , and thanked them.
Folks, without that info center alert, I don't think I'd have known. I'd have lost that wheel completely. I like to think I have a sensitive driver's rear end. But I seriously didn't feel it let go. So, thanks for the tech, Kia!
I was plotting to replace the all-seasons for snows this fall. But after that expense, I think I'll go through a full winter on the all-seasons and get after snows, as well as a set of summer wheels and tires, next year.
Here's a pic of the kit laid out. I used the hook as the lever. And I imagine that loop with the large, threaded rod is for tie-down or tow hook???
So I was somewhere around 75+MPH taking an on-ramp onto the local interstate, heavy in the curve, when the info center lit up about a low tire warning. It changed to the display of the car and tire pressures. My passenger rear tire had suddenly dropped to 6psi. I did what I could to slow the car down rapidly, but safely, and get to a safe-ish spot on the side of the road.
Folks I've not had a flat tire, nor a a need to use the OEM jack kit on a car in a number of decades. And I've literally put millions of miles on cars over that time. But I jumped out and got busy - without reading the manual.
The kit's nicely kept in a styrofoam "jig" atop the (50mph max) spare. The scissors-type jack needed to be lowered in order to slide under the car. And there's a slot in the top of the jack that the seam weld fits into between the visible notches inboard of each wheel well. I really wasn't sure how I was supposed to move it once loaded. You fit something into the hole and use that something as a lever to rotate the quarter-to-half-turn, then slide it to the opposite side for the next partial rotation.
Before getting the tire in the air, I used the included lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts. They must have been around proper torque because they came off easily enough with some effort - not like some "mechanics" that torque them on beyond spec. Also, there is a (Phillips??) screwdriver that I used to gently pry off the centercap. I looked to see if any of the spokes of the centercap had a notch that I thought I'd heard someone mention, but didn't see it. So I tried a couple of spokes lightly before one gave me a purchase I liked and it popped off with a small bit of effort.
Jacking her up was slow, but effective. It wasn't very hot and it wasn't raining or snowing, or I'm sure I'd think it was REALLY slow. This is when I made the observation that concerned me a bit. As a scissors-style jack increases in height, it reduces it's width. That forces the lever you're using to move closer and closer to the car (PAINT!). I cupped the lever tool to help prevent banging the car. It takes enough partial rotations to get you in a hurry, bored, etc., and risk being careless. But it was very do-able.
Removed the lugnuts and began to swap for the spare. Here's where I found out I needed more clearance to get the spare on, so I jacked her up the bit more, mounted the wheel, tightened the lugnuts, lowered her, and loaded everything back in the car.
Tire store was less than 10 miles away. They inspected and found a full one inch gash in and through the outermost treadbar. No nail or screw or anything.
VERDICT: Well, the sidewall was trashed on the inside. I'm used to that being the case when a flat is driven on for longer distances. But I'm guessing that the problem here was the immediate deflation. I needed a new tire. Also, the wheel was slightly bent (?!?!), but they declared it safe to hold air and drive on. I got the cheapest same-size AS tire (a Nexxen), paid ($140USD) , and thanked them.
Folks, without that info center alert, I don't think I'd have known. I'd have lost that wheel completely. I like to think I have a sensitive driver's rear end. But I seriously didn't feel it let go. So, thanks for the tech, Kia!
I was plotting to replace the all-seasons for snows this fall. But after that expense, I think I'll go through a full winter on the all-seasons and get after snows, as well as a set of summer wheels and tires, next year.
Here's a pic of the kit laid out. I used the hook as the lever. And I imagine that loop with the large, threaded rod is for tie-down or tow hook???
).
