What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

K9Leader said:

The "drain" hose curls around with a slight rise going back into the engine

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D.J. said:

The drain hose should not certainly not have any rise

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Mine doesn't have a rise, but compared to your picture, mine angles outward a bit more, so the rear is close to the plastic trim/cover (where the pop rivet is).

I was a little concerned that the extra hose length would have a tendency to kink/collapse, so I linked two f those velcro cable ties you can buy in stacks of 50-100 around the catch can body and through the engine lift eyelet (top center of picture) with just enough tension to keep it from falling away.

Hasn't been an issue after more than a year like that, and the couple times I've checked the can it's been empty with only a thin film of oil.

BIG-D said:

All sorted now but

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Love the smiley face !!

Surprised you didn't go all out while you had the bum out.

Like these...


Still, well done !
( smiley face )

Shorten the hose so it slopes downwards...

Well, answered one question about my Stinger (2019 GT2 AWD) that I have had for a few weeks - no, it will not fit on my BL-5000SLX Quickjack. The lift points are too far apart. Yes, it is possible to lift at other points along the pinch weld but that does risk damaging the rocker panel and, of course, is not lifting from the specific designated lift points so if you die, it's your own foolish fault.
I went ahead and ordered the extensions. I've thought about them before as my wife's Toyota Venza just barely fits (jack pads at their closest possible points end up each being about 3/4 on the blocks). With the Stinger, it is now more of a necessity. Also discovered there is not a front center lift point so difficult to get the Stinger in the air from the front to make it easy to get jack stands on the side jack points so ability to use the Quickjack is even more important.
Needed it up in the air to change out the brake pads. Although it only has 10,000 miles on it, I wanted to proactively prevent the problem of the pads depositing too much material unevenly on the rotors and causing pulsing. Putting in some Dynamic Friction pads and will see how they do for regular ole' (and some spirited) street driving. Also putting on some OEM splash guards for a little extra protection. Since the Quickjack is a no go until I get the extensions, just using my floor jack with a locking brace on it for safety (and I'm not getting under it) and doing it one corner at a time. Got a late start today due to holiday reasons so only did the driver front corner and will hit the rest tomorrow morning.

K9Leader said:

Needed it up in the air to change out the brake pads. Although it only has 10,000 miles on it, I wanted to proactively prevent the problem of the pads depositing too much material unevenly on the rotors and causing pulsing. Putting in some Dynamic Friction pads and will see how they do for regular ole' (and some spirited) street driving. Also putting on some OEM splash guards for a little extra protection. Since the Quickjack is a no go until I get the extensions, just using my floor jack with a locking brace on it for safety (and I'm not getting under it) and doing it one corner at a time. Got a late start today due to holiday reasons so only did the driver front corner and will hit the rest tomorrow morning.

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wise choice on ditching the pads at 10k, before the rotors get full of deposits. I did the same, and 4 years and 30k later, no brake pulsing issues at all. (I went with powerstop Z26s, though.)

Thomby said:

I was a little concerned that the extra hose length would have a tendency to...

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Did you not shorten the hose?

Snowwhite said:

wise choice on ditching the pads at 10k, before the rotors get full of deposits. I did the same, and 4 years and 30k later, no brake pulsing issues at all. (I went with powerstop Z26s, though.)

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Yes, I bought it six weeks ago with 8,400 miles on it and started reading up on the potential issues - the brake pads is a simple and relatively inexpensive one to address proactively.