What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

[Thomby]

The "drain" hose curls around with a slight rise going back into the engine

The drain hose should not certainly not have any rise

Mine doesn't have a rise, but compared to your picture, mine angles outward a bit more, so the rear is close to the plastic trim/cover (where the pop rivet is).

I was a little concerned that the extra hose length would have a tendency to kink/collapse, so I linked two f those velcro cable ties you can buy in stacks of 50-100 around the catch can body and through the engine lift eyelet (top center of picture) with just enough tension to keep it from falling away.

Hasn't been an issue after more than a year like that, and the couple times I've checked the can it's been empty with only a thin film of oil.

 

[AusStinger]

All sorted now but

View attachment 92469

View attachment 92470

Love the smiley face !!

Surprised you didn't go all out while you had the bum out.

Like these...

2018-2022 Kia Stinger Differential Bushing Kit

2018-2020 Kia Stinger Differential Bushing Kit

atqauto.com

Still, well done !
( smiley face )

 

[BIG-D]

Shorten the hose so it slopes downwards...

 

[K9Leader]

Well, answered one question about my Stinger (2019 GT2 AWD) that I have had for a few weeks - no, it will not fit on my BL-5000SLX Quickjack. The lift points are too far apart. Yes, it is possible to lift at other points along the pinch weld but that does risk damaging the rocker panel and, of course, is not lifting from the specific designated lift points so if you die, it's your own foolish fault.
I went ahead and ordered the extensions. I've thought about them before as my wife's Toyota Venza just barely fits (jack pads at their closest possible points end up each being about 3/4 on the blocks). With the Stinger, it is now more of a necessity. Also discovered there is not a front center lift point so difficult to get the Stinger in the air from the front to make it easy to get jack stands on the side jack points so ability to use the Quickjack is even more important.
Needed it up in the air to change out the brake pads. Although it only has 10,000 miles on it, I wanted to proactively prevent the problem of the pads depositing too much material unevenly on the rotors and causing pulsing. Putting in some Dynamic Friction pads and will see how they do for regular ole' (and some spirited) street driving. Also putting on some OEM splash guards for a little extra protection. Since the Quickjack is a no go until I get the extensions, just using my floor jack with a locking brace on it for safety (and I'm not getting under it) and doing it one corner at a time. Got a late start today due to holiday reasons so only did the driver front corner and will hit the rest tomorrow morning.

 

[Snowwhite]

Needed it up in the air to change out the brake pads. Although it only has 10,000 miles on it, I wanted to proactively prevent the problem of the pads depositing too much material unevenly on the rotors and causing pulsing. Putting in some Dynamic Friction pads and will see how they do for regular ole' (and some spirited) street driving. Also putting on some OEM splash guards for a little extra protection. Since the Quickjack is a no go until I get the extensions, just using my floor jack with a locking brace on it for safety (and I'm not getting under it) and doing it one corner at a time. Got a late start today due to holiday reasons so only did the driver front corner and will hit the rest tomorrow morning.

wise choice on ditching the pads at 10k, before the rotors get full of deposits. I did the same, and 4 years and 30k later, no brake pulsing issues at all. (I went with powerstop Z26s, though.)

 

[D.J.]

I was a little concerned that the extra hose length would have a tendency to...

Did you not shorten the hose?

 

[K9Leader]

wise choice on ditching the pads at 10k, before the rotors get full of deposits. I did the same, and 4 years and 30k later, no brake pulsing issues at all. (I went with powerstop Z26s, though.)

Yes, I bought it six weeks ago with 8,400 miles on it and started reading up on the potential issues - the brake pads is a simple and relatively inexpensive one to address proactively.

 

[Thomby]

Did you not shorten the hose?

If I remember correctly, it came with a short little 1-2" piece, just enough to mount the catch can to the intake in front, then the stock hose connects to the rear, putting it maybe 5-6" further back.

I didn't want to cut the stock molded hose in case I want to remove it down the road, and with a little fiddling I got it arranged so the radius stays gentle and it wouldn't pinch or collapse.

 

[D.J.]

If I remember correctly, it came with a short little 1-2" piece, just enough to mount the catch can to the intake in front, then the stock hose connects to the rear, putting it maybe 5-6" further back.

I didn't want to cut the stock molded hose in case I want to remove it down the road, and with a little fiddling I got it arranged so the radius stays gentle and it wouldn't pinch or collapse.

Best bet is to cut five or six inches off that original hose, and the likelihood of needing to remove the catch can is slim.

 

[Snowwhite]

Best bet is to cut five or six inches off that original hose, and the likelihood of needing to remove the catch can is slim.

It would make sense to just buy a replacement hose and cut that to whatever size you needed, then keep the original around in case you decide to go back to stock.

 

[D.J.]

It would make sense to just buy a replacement hose and cut that to whatever size you needed, then keep the original around in case you decide to go back to stock.

I decided to only buy a replacement hose, if I ever decide to return to stock...


I'm fairly confident I will never need to buy the replacement hose, I've had this zero maintenance catch can install for over 5 years now.

 

[BIG-D]

Temu purchase sums up the look of most passengers in this thing.

 

[BIG-D]

Anyway Happy New Year guys

I thought I heard a clunk while launching today and fearing the worst I climbed under with my 19mm socket and breaker bar.

Nope, all was well... but concerning none the less.

Peace

 

[Snicklefritz]

Took my '18 3.3L to our mechanic and had him check out the "oil leak" that KIA put a red box on my multipoint inspection at my recent oil change. He saw only an oil stain around the forward crankcase bearing and no indication that it leaks. Over time it has "sweated" and attracted dirt as sweating oil will do. He cleaned it off and said that later we can take a look at it. I had asked him to check the oil feed lines to the turbos. He said both are clean and bright. So, good news all around for me. Yay.

I have no intention of getting that safety recall done unless or until the oil feed line shows oil on the outside.

 

[K9Leader]

Question for the Stinger community - I notice that the calculated range (miles remaining until Empty) does not change when you switch among drive modes (Eco, Comfort, Sport). If it is telling me range remaining is 225 miles and I switch from Eco to Comfort or Sport, resulting in the MPG decreasing, then range should decrease by at least a few miles (and vice versa for switching from Sport to Comfort to Eco). But it doesn't change so it appears the calculation is not using expected MPG based on driving mode but some other MPG calculation - current calculated MPG x fuel remaining? Historical MPG x fuel remaining? Something else?

Any thoughts, incites, theories?

 

[D.J.]

Question for the Stinger community - I notice that the calculated range (miles remaining until Empty) does not change when you switch among drive modes (Eco, Comfort, Sport). If it is telling me range remaining is 225 miles and I switch from Eco to Comfort or Sport, resulting in the MPG decreasing, then range should decrease by at least a few miles (and vice versa for switching from Sport to Comfort to Eco). But it doesn't change so it appears the calculation is not using expected MPG based on driving mode but some other MPG calculation - current calculated MPG x fuel remaining? Historical MPG x fuel remaining? Something else?

Any thoughts, incites, theories?View attachment 92700

The estimated range is based on your current miles per gallon....

It does not adjust immediately upon switching drive modes, but instead, the estimates continue to be based on your current conditions...


If you are driving down a long hill, and you switch from comfort to sport, your estimated range will remain the same until you do something differently that consumes more fuel.

 

[Thomby]

I notice that the calculated range (miles remaining until Empty) does not change when you switch among drive modes (Eco, Comfort, Sport). If it is telling me range remaining is 225 miles and I switch from Eco to Comfort or Sport, resulting in the MPG decreasing, then range should decrease by at least a few miles

The estimated range is based on your current miles per gallon

It reacts strongly (if not entirely) to your very recent driving -- current gas tank. When I've switched from E30 for around town to 93 for a road trip, the mileage recalc outpaced the gas I was using, so after an hour of driving I had a higher remaining range than when I left the gas station.

With E30 (which costs ~10% mileage over 93) plus warmup, redlights, and short trips, I tend to average about 20mpg around town. So when I refill I'll see about 320 expected miles. For steady highway driving on 93, I'll get around 28mpg in the low 80s, maybe a little more if I hypermile, which would be more like 440 per tank.

So on my last road trip, I filled up on 93, saw the usual ~320 miles, and 50 or so miles later showed something like 380 remaining.

 

[Snicklefritz]

So on my last road trip, I filled up on 93, saw the usual ~320 miles, and 50 or so miles later showed something like 380 remaining.

You must be a wizard. I have never seen over c. 350 range, and that was trending downhill toward TX with a tailwind for an entire leg between fill ups. Never repeated.

 

[Thomby]

You must be a wizard. I have never seen over c. 350 range, and that was trending downhill toward TX with a tailwind for an entire leg between fill ups. Never repeated.

Eco mode, light on the throttle, 38/36psi, 82ish mph...takes a bit for current mileage to tick its way up but 28.5-29mph should be doable, and over a 15.9gal tank that's ~450 miles. I bet if I had the patience to do 65 I'd break 30 mpg.

I didn't actually see remaining range over 400 because the first few gallons / dozens of miles it was adjusting from my prior tank at closer to 20 mpg, but even running E30 I can top 25 mpg if I'm cruising on 50-55mph state roads with few lights or stops.

 

[D.J.]

Eco mode, light on the throttle, 38/36psi, 82ish mph...takes a bit for current mileage to tick its way up but 28.5-29mph should be doable, and over a 15.9gal tank that's ~450 miles. I bet if I had the patience to do 65 I'd break 30 mpg.

I didn't actually see remaining range over 400 because the first few gallons / dozens of miles it was adjusting from my prior tank at closer to 20 mpg, but even running E30 I can top 25 mpg if I'm cruising on 50-55mph state roads with few lights or stops.

I don't get anywhere near the kind of mileage. You must be the mileage whisperer.

185 Kia Stingers have provided 4.4 million miles of real world fuel economy & MPG data.


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3.3L V6 GAS
125 Kia Stingers have provided 3.0 million miles of real world fuel economy & MPG data.



My Stinger specifically