danylo.podilchyk
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Yes that is true but with the gt line especially engine being much different then what’s out it hasn’t been much solid proven mods for the 2.5l that wouldn’t cause an engine light or even won’t void warranty issues.
Intake, exhaust, and blow-off valve are all solid upgrades and won’t trigger a check engine light. We have all of these available for the 2.5T.Yes that is true but with the gt line especially engine being much different then what’s out it hasn’t been much solid proven mods for the 2.5l that wouldn’t cause an engine light or even won’t void warranty issues.
Piggyback is the best mod for hp gains as far as I know....I don't see blow-off valves, exhaust or intake as adding much of anything. The piggyback is $500 and can give you as much as 40hp or so- measured by my seat dyno...they claim more of course. I have access to E-85, so I can take advantage of MAP3.Any new ideas on mods that can be done to a Stinger Gt-Line that can add more HP/TQ without going as far as getting a tune
Been trying my best nott to lean onto a piggyback or even jb4, Is an ECU piggyback really easier and not a headache to take on and off ?Piggyback is the best mod for hp gains as far as I know....I don't see blow-off valves, exhaust or intake as adding much of anything. The piggyback is $500 and can give you as much as 40hp or so- measured by my seat dyno...they claim more of course. I have access to E-85, so I can take advantage of MAP3.
OMG, yes. The JB4 docks to your OBD2 port and connects via Bluetooth. You control everything through the app. I don't really know if Lozic, and ilk, are better...they probably are, but they're much more expensive and can you easily "sell" them when your done or want to move into another 2.5T? If your still under warranty, will the OEM "see" and deny claims? Can you turn it off? I got a tank of bad gas, threw a code, lost the turbo...I simply turned it off through the app to protect the engine. After a couple tanks of gas, everything cleared and I went back to MAP2- daily driver mode for me. E85 is 20 minutes away from me, so not always run in MAP3.Been trying my best nott to lean onto a piggyback or even jb4, Is an ECU piggyback really easier and not a headache to take on and off ?
If you don’t mind me asking, what’s the reason that you would be opposed to installing the JB4 Tune?Any new ideas on mods that can be done to a Stinger Gt-Line that can add more HP/TQ without going as far as getting a tune
Then stay stock and learn to enjoy the car as is. Even with a 2.5T, this platform is more capable than a lot of folks give it credit for. I've got a JB4 on mine, but for everyday driving, I stay with Map0. Carving corners doesn't need HP, and the Stinger does it well enough to be very satisfying. A stock Stinger handles far more capably than most that own one.Do not want to void warranty with Dealership.
I just bought my ‘22 GT line a month ago, just haven’t been able to afford mods yet. But good god I LOVE this car!!!! Like many people I wanted the 3.3 twin turbo, but my issue was not being able to even locate one close to Oregon. At first, I thought I would be disappointed with the 2.5 L, but I have been pleasantly surprised with how much I love this thing. It’s fast AF.Is there anyone who owns 2.5L Stinger here?
Does BMS not consider the JB4 a piggyback? Because I'd say it is, just a very well executed one. Instead of replacing or overwriting the stock ECU, it intercepts factory sensors and modifies the signals the ECU sees, so you retain stock programming & protections.Been trying my best nott to lean onto a piggyback or even jb4, Is an ECU piggyback really easier and not a headache to take on and off ?
I don't think JB4's fuel wire "intercepts" the O2 sensor signal, in the same way it does with MAP & TMAP sensors. It only taps into the O2 sensor feedback wire to read the Lambda voltage signal.You can also add fuel wires (10 min job) to intercept the O2 sensors and manipulate AFR in a similar way.
Ah you're right, the way it physically connects puts it in parallel with the sensors rather than in series, ie read-only. So that begs the question of how it leans out AFR in the higher revs...if it's by further manipulating the MAP/TMAP signals, I'd expect the ECU to "catch" it on the exhaust side.I don't think JB4's fuel wire "intercepts" the O2 sensor signal, in the same way it does with MAP & TMAP sensors. It only taps into the O2 sensor feedback wire to read the Lambda voltage signal.
This is exactly why I asked the question.Do not want to void warranty with Dealership.
That's a good question. I have my doubts whether JB4 by itself can alter or "remap" fueling at all. I don't see how it could. I'm under the impression that is what the back end flash is for - adding spark ignition timing and AFR control - though I'm far from an expert in that or have 1st-hand knowledge. As much as I like the JB4 system and the sheer bang-for-your-buck, it has its limitations, compared to a reflashed ECU. Doesn't bother me, since the highest I'd run is Map2. I'm not into max HP/TQ gain anyway. I run it at the track more to keep the turbo spooled up to reduced turbo lag when driving out on corner exit.Ah you're right, the way it physically connects puts it in parallel with the sensors rather than in series, ie read-only. So that begs the question of how it leans out AFR in the higher revs...if it's by further manipulating the MAP/TMAP signals, I'd expect the ECU to "catch" it on the exhaust side.
Unless our cars run in open loop at high rpm, which would surprise me given how modern/"smart" they are (I would've assumed closed loop basically 100% of the time, with exceptions maybe at startup or if something goes wrong).