Need ideas !!

My Whiteline F&R swaybars were a great mod, really ties the chassis to the suspension, no more roll and float in the corners and ride's on rails, best $400 I've spent.
What other things you done to your stinger?!
 
______________________________
What other things you done to your stinger?!
Actually I have a 2021 Genesis G70 3.3T, that forum is pretty quiet so this one fills in the blanks since most of the mechanical stuff is the same lol. Just a rear lip spoiler, quad exhaust tips, and an 18" lightweight Summer wheel set. Here's how it sits w/ the OEM 19" wheels

IMG_1446.webp
 
What’s the best starting mod for performance while building up to tuning process for an 2.5L GT-Line ?
Depends on what do you find lacking and needs improvement with your car as is.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Depends on what do you find lacking and needs improvement with your car as is.
Really want to boost performance a bit but not really looking forward for a tune like an jb4 feel that’s too excessive not really a car guy. But still would like to tweak this 300hp just a bit.
 
Actually I have a 2021 Genesis G70 3.3T, that forum is pretty quiet so this one fills in the blanks since most of the mechanical stuff is the same lol. Just a rear lip spoiler, quad exhaust tips, and an 18" lightweight Summer wheel set. Here's how it sits w/ the OEM 19" wheels

View attachment 89234
Ohhh yeah I did some research and finding out they basically well almost the same car just different branded company and other specific differences.
 
Really want to boost performance a bit but not really looking forward for a tune like an jb4 feel that’s too excessive not really a car guy. But still would like to tweak this 300hp just a bit.
JB4 is actually about the most basic engine performance booster there is. You could do intake and/or exhaust, but gains won't materialize until you do mods that take advantage of the higher flow potential. Besides, with JB4, you don't have to do the higher maps that require fueling mods (E85, CPI, WMI, etc.). Nothing wrong with staying with Map 1 or 2. That's what I do. In fact, for street use, I stay with map 0, as the 2.5T is more than adequate for everyday driving. Unless there is a sound reason otherwise, I prefer to go easy to keep wear & tear to a minimum. However, it's really nice to have the ability to dial up a few more psi of boost with a few clicks on my phone app, when the occasion calls for it and where the venue allows safe use of the extra oomph. Lastly, JB4 Installation is about as easy as it gets.

If you are patient, pre-owned JB4s pop up fairly regularly on forums like this, or on FB marketplace or ebay. All 3 of mine were bought for about 1/2 retail price. Hard to beat that bang for the buck.
 
JB4 is actually about the most basic engine performance booster there is. You could do intake and/or exhaust, but gains won't materialize until you do mods that take advantage of the higher flow potential. Besides, with JB4, you don't have to do the higher maps that require fueling mods (E85, CPI, WMI, etc.). Nothing wrong with staying with Map 1 or 2. That's what I do. In fact, for street use, I stay with map 0, as the 2.5T is more than adequate for everyday driving. Unless there is a sound reason otherwise, I prefer to go easy to keep wear & tear to a minimum. However, it's really nice to have the ability to dial up a few more psi of boost with a few clicks on my phone app, when the occasion calls for it and where the venue allows safe use of the extra oomph. Lastly, JB4 Installation is about as easy as it gets.

If you are patient, pre-owned JB4s pop up fairly regularly on forums like this, or on FB marketplace or ebay. All 3 of mine were bought for about 1/2 retail price. Hard to beat that bang for the buck.
Im new to the car scene so i don’t fully much understand how jb4 works that’s why im trying my best to shy away so I don’t have any mechanical issues down the line.
 
JB4 is actually about the most basic engine performance booster there is. You could do intake and/or exhaust, but gains won't materialize until you do mods that take advantage of the higher flow potential. Besides, with JB4, you don't have to do the higher maps that require fueling mods (E85, CPI, WMI, etc.). Nothing wrong with staying with Map 1 or 2. That's what I do. In fact, for street use, I stay with map 0, as the 2.5T is more than adequate for everyday driving. Unless there is a sound reason otherwise, I prefer to go easy to keep wear & tear to a minimum. However, it's really nice to have the ability to dial up a few more psi of boost with a few clicks on my phone app, when the occasion calls for it and where the venue allows safe use of the extra oomph. Lastly, JB4 Installation is about as easy as it gets.

If you are patient, pre-owned JB4s pop up fairly regularly on forums like this, or on FB marketplace or ebay. All 3 of mine were bought for about 1/2 retail price. Hard to beat that bang for the buck.
also do certain aftermarket parts and mods like an jb4 voids the warranty?
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
also do certain aftermarket parts and mods like an jb4 voids the warranty?
If the part(s) that broke can be plausibly linked to the the aftermarket part(s) you installed, then YES, Kia could deny warranty. Since JB4 is meant to increase boost pressure beyond what the stock system would, that increased HP/TQ mean increased stress on a lot of parts on the car. If you are concerned about warranty, stay stock.

That said, if your infotainment system fails, Kia would have a tough time blaming that on JB4. All depends on whether there is plausible causality.
 
Im new to the car scene so i don’t fully much understand how jb4 works that’s why im trying my best to shy away so I don’t have any mechanical issues down the line.
The JB4 intercepts signals from the sensors that measure airflow into the engine, and passes adjusted values to the computer, so for example it thinks the turbos are pushing 10psi when they're actually at 14 or 16.

Because the car electronically controls boost, making changes without tuning aren't going to make much difference because the computer is going to limit it to the same value (it's really a boost range based on load, but same idea).
 
Back
Top