AFE intake vs injen intake

Gilbreezy

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I’m looking at doing an intake and wanted to get thoughts on those of you who have done an AFE and Injen. I’m looking for that nice growl the stinger seems to be missing at base. The AFE seems to be a true cold air vs the Injen is a ram open air.
 
The AFE seems to be a true cold air
Correct. Although, "cold air" is relative. Here off the Gulf Coast, right now in the middle of the Summer, there is nothing cold about the temp outside. That said, 105F ambient air is still colder than the heat-soaked air under the hood of my Stinger that has been stuck in traffic for an hour.
the Injen is a ram open air.
Open, yes. Ram air? Nope. Not even with the typical aftermarket intake snorkels that are very popular with Stinger/G70. Not unless you are pushing 150+mph might the ram air effect cause an appreciable pressure increase at the intake filter inlet. Even then, it would require an enclosure to built around the intake filter, in order to trap/contain the incoming ram air pressure.

Now then, just because Injen is not a true CAI doesn't mean a guy couldn't turn it into one. See here: 2.5T Intake?
 
I’m looking at doing an intake and wanted to get thoughts on those of you who have done an AFE and Injen.

@Gilbreezy, the Injen is our most popular intake for the 3.3TT and for a good reason IMO. I think it sounds and looks the best especially with the color options you have. The closed box vs open air intake doesn't make much of a difference either. I can help you out with a discount on the Injens if you just send me a message!

 
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@Gilbreezy, the Injen is our most popular intake for the 3.3TT and for a good reason IMO. I think it sounds and looks the best especially with the color options you have. The closed box vs open air intake doesn't make much of a difference either. I can help you out with a discount on the Injens if you just send me a message!


+1 for Injen
 
Don't get hung up on the closed off (AFE) vs open underhood intake (Injen)...the turbo's compress and superheat the air as soon as you get into the throttle anyway.

Pick the one you like the best and go with it. I started with BMS and now have Injens. I like the Injens better for sure.
 
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The turbocharger will raise the intake air temp a certain amount depending on what temp is going in. The higher the air temp entering the turbo, the higher the temp exiting it. The higher the air temp, the less dense it is, the less power the engine will make. It also increase the likelihood of pinging, thus increasing the octane requirement.

Of course there is the intercooler. Problem is that an air-air intercooler, like on the 3.3T and 2.0T, requires good cross air flow for optimum charge air temp reduction. When the car is sitting still, there is next to no air flow across the intercooler. The result is less efficient cooling of the intake charge temp. This means the IAT (intake air temp) going into the combustion chamber will start to creep up, the longer the car sits still. This is heat soaking.

You can monitor IAT, either with JB4 app or any OBD2 reader, and see for yourself what IAT does when the car sits still. I did that before and after enclosing the Injen CAI, and the result is marked reduction in IAT sitting still at the grid. Granted, as soon as you launch and the car starts to move, cooling air will start to rush across the intercooler. IAT will start to trend downward. However, at the launch, plus a good amount of time after, the engine is sucking in hot air and making less power. Whether that is important to you or not depending on how you drive and your usage case, but to say that the air temp sucked in at the intake filter doesn't matter because the turbo will heat it up anyway is missing the bigger picture.
 
The turbocharger will raise the intake air temp a certain amount depending on what temp is going in. The higher the air temp entering the turbo, the higher the temp exiting it. The higher the air temp, the less dense it is, the less power the engine will make. It also increase the likelihood of pinging, thus increasing the octane requirement.

Of course there is the intercooler. Problem is that an air-air intercooler, like on the 3.3T and 2.0T, requires good cross air flow for optimum charge air temp reduction. When the car is sitting still, there is next to no air flow across the intercooler. The result is less efficient cooling of the intake charge temp. This means the IAT (intake air temp) going into the combustion chamber will start to creep up, the longer the car sits still. This is heat soaking.

You can monitor IAT, either with JB4 app or any OBD2 reader, and see for yourself what IAT does when the car sits still. I did that before and after enclosing the Injen CAI, and the result is marked reduction in IAT sitting still at the grid. Granted, as soon as you launch and the car starts to move, cooling air will start to rush across the intercooler. IAT will start to trend downward. However, at the launch, plus a good amount of time after, the engine is sucking in hot air and making less power. Whether that is important to you or not depending on how you drive and your usage case, but to say that the air temp sucked in at the intake filter doesn't matter because the turbo will heat it up anyway is missing the bigger picture.
IAT's will rise no matter which style of intake you're using when sitting still.

If the closed off airbox is so much better and makes such a remarkable difference, then why isn't everyone using them and breaking records on this platform with this one simple change? I'll tell you why, it makes little to no difference in power output.
 
IAT's will rise no matter which style of intake you're using when sitting still.

If the closed off airbox is so much better and makes such a remarkable difference, then why isn't everyone using them and breaking records on this platform with this one simple change? I'll tell you why, it makes little to no difference in power output.
Because most owners care more for the underhood bling factor, than what the system actually does to IAT when heat soaked. Mfrs caters to what sells best. Just look at how many folks proudly post pics of their jazzed up engine compartments with open cones in plain view. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, if that's what folks like. But to claim the fact that few aftermarketeers sell fully enclosed intake system as proof that it doesn't have any performance benefits is naïve at best.

It doesn't help that dyno runs producing those impressive CAI power gains are typically done in the shop with big ass fans blow into an open hood. Maybe this is how some of you guys drive your Stinger, but it sure as heck ain't the way I drive mine.
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Because most owners care more for the underhood bling factor, than what the system actually does to IAT when heat soaked. Mfrs caters to what sells best. Just look at how many folks proudly post pics of their jazzed up engine compartments with open cones in plain view. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, if that's what folks like. But to claim the fact that few aftermarketeers sell fully enclosed intake system as proof that it doesn't have any performance benefits is naïve at best.

It doesn't help that dyno runs producing those impressive CAI power gains are typically done in the shop with big ass fans blow into an open hood. Maybe this is how some of you guys drive your Stinger, but it sure as heck ain't the way I drive mine.
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Look, I'm not claiming there's no benefit. I'm saying it's negligible at best on our platform and makes little to no difference in real world performance numbers or times.

If you think we don't have number chasers in this community looking for every tenth or hp, then you're the one that's naive.
 
Look, I'm not claiming there's no benefit. I'm saying it's negligible at best on our platform and makes little to no difference in real world performance numbers or times.
That all depends, which is why I said:
Whether that is important to you or not depends on how you drive and your usage case...
For everyday driving, I doubt most folks would notice - or care about - the difference. It is why I drive on map 0 for daily commute and run regular unleaded in the cooler months of the year. Heck, on my commute route, I'm usually more about hypermiling and trying to beat my own person best avg mpg.

That all changes on AutoX weekend, when I'm lined up at the starting grid, trying not to be the slowest in Street Touring Hatchback class... again. :) I would imagine the same goes for those who run the drag strip. Or anybody else who take part in any endeavors where being handicapped by an heat-soaked intake on launch (and some 10-30sec immediately after) could result in a measurable difference.

Same goes for lightweight wheels, or even brake pads, for that matter. Unless we know the usage case(s) of the person asking the question, it would not be good advice to say blanketly the performance difference won't matter.
 
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Go run both closed and open intakes on your autocross course and report the difference in time.

Same for anyone going to the drag strip.

I'd love to see how little the difference is if any at all.
 
Because most owners care more for the underhood bling factor, than what the system actually does to IAT when heat soaked. Mfrs caters to what sells best. Just look at how many folks proudly post pics of their jazzed up engine compartments with open cones in plain view. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, if that's what folks like. But to claim the fact that few aftermarketeers sell fully enclosed intake system as proof that it doesn't have any performance benefits is naïve at best.

It doesn't help that dyno runs producing those impressive CAI power gains are typically done in the shop with big ass fans blow into an open hood. Maybe this is how some of you guys drive your Stinger, but it sure as heck ain't the way I drive mine.
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I guess when you run your car full throttle down the street you do it sitting still with no air flowing over the intercooler or to the filters as well....fans in front of cars for dyno's has been happening since dyno's have been around, nothing new. Same with the open filter vs closed box debate.

No one provides concrete proof of any performance gain or loss.
 
I have the Ingen and all I can say is since my car has releaned itself there is a noticeable difference in performance, I did however install a blowoff valve at the same time
 
I’ll say another thing to take into consideration is the cleaning process for the intakes.

The AFE intakes take a considerable amount of work to clean every 10-15k miles to keep the filters looking nice. Though it’s more manageable with the optional prefilter covers that aren’t included with the set.

I can’t speak on the process for the Injens but I assume it’s a whole lot easier.
 
I have the Ingen and all I can say is since my car has releaned itself there is a noticeable difference in performance, I did however install a blowoff valve at the same time
Did you have anything reset. How long did it take to adjust or relearn?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Did you have anything reset. How long did it take to adjust or relearn?
I didn't reset it just releaned itself I would say mabee a couple of weeks not really sure, but obviously a noticeable difference
 
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I’ll say another thing to take into consideration is the cleaning process for the intakes.

The AFE intakes take a considerable amount of work to clean every 10-15k miles to keep the filters looking nice. Though it’s more manageable with the optional prefilter covers that aren’t included with the set.

I can’t speak on the process for the Injens but I assume it’s a whole lot easier.
I’m on the fence about upgrading to the AFE setup for that exact reason. I live in the desert and change out all my vehicles air filters about every 4-6 months.

In order to get the AFE filter off do you have to completely remove the intake pipe attached to the turbo? Or is there an easier way to go about it?
 
We’ll I’ve had to clean them three times, about every 12k miles and cleaning is a pain point.

You do have to remove the intake pipe on each side to get to the filter but the only side that’s an inconvenience on is the passenger side, even more-so with wider charge pipes.

Pulling out and putting in the filters is a bit of a challenge at first but you’ll find how to best get them in and out.

I will say I started using the pre-filters covers around the second cleaning and they feel mandatory if you’re gonna run these intakes for a lengthy period of time.

I’m also swapping to dry filters soon as I think it’ll save time with the cleaning process.
 
Or... you can oversize the crap out of the filter, so as to lengthen the service interval required.

Initially, I actually prefer the fully enclosed aFe intake system, but I had reservations about the relatively smallish cone filters - both in terms of high-RPM high-flow rate performance and service intervals.

The Injen filter is larger, but this is one area where larger is always better. Not only does it flow better, the greater filter medium surface area will take far longer for accumulated enough contaminants to cause performance issues. So... in goes the absolute largest cone filter from K&N's catalog I can shoehorn into my Injen airbox. :sneaky:
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I’m also swapping to dry filters soon as I think it’ll save time with the cleaning process.
Might want to reconsider that. Unlike dry paper element filters, oil-impregnated cotton filters can trap a lot more debris before effective flow rate begins to degrade. A dry filter's max flow rate will drop as soon as it starts taking on contaminant debris, clogging the tiny pores of the paper element.

In contrast, oil's high surface tension will tend to trap the debris on the filter's outer surface, preventing it from affecting thru-flow performance. That might make the oil-type filter appear "dirtier" than the same size dry paper filter with the same amount of run time and contaminant load. However, looks can be deceiving. That "dirty-looking" oil-type filter will more than likely out-perform the dry paper filter, which has sucked the dirt particles into the paper element - hiding them from view but reducing the filter's effectiveness.
 
We’ll I’ve had to clean them three times, about every 12k miles and cleaning is a pain point.

You do have to remove the intake pipe on each side to get to the filter but the only side that’s an inconvenience on is the passenger side, even more-so with wider charge pipes.

Pulling out and putting in the filters is a bit of a challenge at first but you’ll find how to best get them in and out.

I will say I started using the pre-filters covers around the second cleaning and they feel mandatory if you’re gonna run these intakes for a lengthy period of time.

I’m also swapping to dry filters soon as I think it’ll save time with the cleaning process.
Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback. I’ve read a lot of great things about the AFE intakes for the stinger, but haven’t seen much on the maintenance side. The pre-filters would definitely be a must for me.

Im going to keep my eyes open around Black Friday/Cyber Monday and see if somewhere is running a sale on them.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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