Replacing All Struts and Shocks

[Sickicks]

Hey guys have around 100,000 miles on my 18 stinger gt. Recently, it seems like i can feel literally everything on the road, my car shakes over bumps, weather its small cracks or just a cm difference in pavement i feel it and its terrible.

Thinkimg about going to my mechanic to replace struts and shocks, Curious to those who did it, did it increase your ride quality and how much do you think id be looking at.

Thanks yall

 

[Snicklefritz]

Each strut or shock is under $200. With components, front pair is over $600, rear is over $500. Labor will take total cost for all four corners up to c. $1,500 or more. The important thing, the essential thing, is to trust the mechanic doing it all. Cost savings is of no account of you wonder if the job is done right. Ima confident that KIA dealerships would charge in the upper end. It wouldn't surprise me if they charge over $2,000. When the time comes for this kind of work, I won't be having KIA do it.

 

[Sickicks]

Each strut or shock is under $200. With components, front pair is over $600, rear is over $500. Labor will take total cost for all four corners up to c. $1,500 or more. The important thing, the essential thing, is to trust the mechanic doing it all. Cost savings is of no account of you wonder if the job is done right. Ima confident that KIA dealerships would charge in the upper end. It wouldn't surprise me if they charge over $2,000. When the time comes for this kind of work, I won't be having KIA do it.

Damn lmfao, I appriciate it man. Pardon if i sound new to the car scene i am but would you think maybe going with coil overs might be better and cheaper? Its my understanding they replace the shock and strut and combine into one. It looks much cheaper part wise on the site im looking at.

 

[Snicklefritz]

I can't answer that one. I've had "the shop" I do wheels and tires at suggest that coilovers are the way to real adjustment for handling performance. The Stinger has no camber adjustment in front. Coilovers answer that lack. This will be a question for "my" mechanic when the time comes, although I may ask before I have the need. We talk car stuff from time to time. Until the Stinger, I didn't know squat about cars. Now I know a little bit more about the Stinger than "squat", but not much about cars generally. Hah.

 

[Sickicks]

I can't answer that one. I've had "the shop" I do wheels and tires at suggest that coilovers are the way to real adjustment for handling performance. The Stinger has no camber adjustment in front. Coilovers answer that lack. This will be a question for "my" mechanic when the time comes, although I may ask before I have the need. We talk car stuff from time to time. Until the Stinger, I didn't know squat about cars. Now I know a little bit more about the Stinger than "squat", but not much about cars generally. Hah.

Haha, Well thanks anyways man big help. Think i might just go with the struts and shocks, shit looks like the struts them selves are 400 a pop which is insane but oh well. Thanks again

 

[Snicklefritz]

400 each for struts is including all the components I assume. Still too much. Brave Search your not looking at "air" struts are you? those look like racing struts or summat. Ima sure some drivers get them along with their other aftermarket mods.

 

[JSolo]

What about doing other body bushings? Struts/springs not the only things that wear out suspension wise.

 

[Sickicks]

What about doing other body bushings? Struts/springs not the only things that wear out suspension wise.

True, but with a 100k i assume those are the big players to get done. What were you thinking?

 

[JSolo]

I don't know. I've often wondered how much needs to be done to restore the suspension to like new (or newer) condition.

 

[Sickicks]

Well all i know is my car drives like shit now due to nj's pothole issue and uneven roads. Really praying i go to the mechanic tomorrow and he just says replace the shock absorbers and not the entire struts etc.

 

[Volfy]

If you are disassembling the front struts to pull the OEM springs to drop into brand new OEM struts, you might as well swap out the old strut top bearings. At 100k, they've aged enough to warrant replacement.

As far as suspension bushings go... for sure the front inner bushings need to be replaced. I've actually bought replacement bushings to do exactly that, and I'm nowhere near 100k miles. The big one (on curved arm) I got an aftermarket urethane bushing that is adjustable. The two smaller ones are OEM only. These flex a good bit because of the front wheel steering movement, plus front suspension just take a lot more abuse. You might also replace the knuckles as well, depending on their conditions.

Rear suspension bushings I wouldn't worry as much. A good thorough inspection (plus your own driving history) should tell you whether they need replacement.

Replacing with coilovers makes a lot of sense from an overall dollar spent POV. You do need to understand the effects they will have on your handling and be willing to tinker. Coilovers are also re-buildable and need to be serviced regularly. Whether that is a plus or a minus depends on your POV. Not a good fit if you want a drop-in-and-forget solution.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Replacing front control arms (bigger one) won't be a bad idea.

 

[oddball]

What you have going on is probably one or more struts has failed by locking solid - or at least much firmer than it should be. It's more common for shocks/struts to fail by going soft - think of the old Hondas you see going down the road that literally bounce for a quarter mile after every bump - but going hard also happens.

You have to inspect the parts to see what's actually worn or showing signs of wear. Otherwise it's just the parts cannon. There isn't anything that's a "known" high wear item. By comparison, I have an old Lincoln LS, and within a few years of introduction it was figured out that the design of the front lower ball joint was ... "lacking", and it's common for those ball joints to only last a few years. There's nothing like that showing up on the Stinger (yet).

Inspection isn't hard. Lift the car, see if the wheel wiggles in any direction by pushing/pulling on the top/bottom and front/back. Look at each bushing. Bushings will literally tear in half when they age.

The upper strut mount is a "might as well" when replacing the strut - you're there, it's no extra labor, might as well.

Does the GT have the adaptive (electronic) suspension? I forget which trims/years ECS was added. Those struts are much more expensive. The basic ones are ~$200. The aftermarket hasn't picked up anything for the Stinger suspension yet (excluding things related to lowering and a few performance parts - I'm talking maintenance replacement here) so it's dealer-only.

 

[Sickicks]

What you have going on is probably one or more struts has failed by locking solid - or at least much firmer than it should be. It's more common for shocks/struts to fail by going soft - think of the old Hondas you see going down the road that literally bounce for a quarter mile after every bump - but going hard also happens.

You have to inspect the parts to see what's actually worn or showing signs of wear. Otherwise it's just the parts cannon. There isn't anything that's a "known" high wear item. By comparison, I have an old Lincoln LS, and within a few years of introduction it was figured out that the design of the front lower ball joint was ... "lacking", and it's common for those ball joints to only last a few years. There's nothing like that showing up on the Stinger (yet).

Inspection isn't hard. Lift the car, see if the wheel wiggles in any direction by pushing/pulling on the top/bottom and front/back. Look at each bushing. Bushings will literally tear in half when they age.

The upper strut mount is a "might as well" when replacing the strut - you're there, it's no extra labor, might as well.

Does the GT have the adaptive (electronic) suspension? I forget which trims/years ECS was added. Those struts are much more expensive. The basic ones are ~$200. The aftermarket hasn't picked up anything for the Stinger suspension yet (excluding things related to lowering and a few performance parts - I'm talking maintenance replacement here) so it's dealer-only.

Im unsure on the ECS, i have a kia stinger gt 18. Ill have to get that checked out, I hope i can get away with doing 2 struts if thats the case, just dropped off today will let you know what they report back

 

[Ohiocruiser]

The big one (on curved arm) I got an aftermarket urethane bushing that is adjustable.

Where did you get it? I was only able to find the one for smaller arm.

 

[Volfy]

Where did you get it? I was only able to find the one for smaller arm.

Mine is made by White Line: Radius Arm Lower - Bushing Kit Double Offset

Superpro also has one very similar, if not identical: Front Radius Arm To Chassis Mount Bush Kit - Caster Adjustable Kia Stinger

The smaller control bushings I got from an online Kia OEM parts vendor:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
54551-J5000​	Lateral Arm Bushing​	$20.74​	4​	$82.96​

Subtotal: $82.96​

Estimated Shipping: $9.70​

Total: $92.66​

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Mine is made by White Line: Radius Arm Lower - Bushing Kit Double Offset
View attachment 87660
Superpro also has one very similar, if not identical: Front Radius Arm To Chassis Mount Bush Kit - Caster Adjustable Kia Stinger

The smaller control bushings I got from an online Kia OEM parts vendor:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
54551-J5000​	Lateral Arm Bushing​	$20.74​	4​	$82.96​

Subtotal: $82.96​

Estimated Shipping: $9.70​

Total: $92.66​

I think that is the one I saw. Are you sure it is for that big curved one?

 

[Snicklefritz]

Im unsure on the ECS, i have a kia stinger gt 18. Ill have to get that checked out, I hope i can get away with doing 2 struts if thats the case, just dropped off today will let you know what they report back

Only the GT1 and GT2 have ECS.

 

[Volfy]

I think that is the one I saw. Are you sure it is for that big curved one?

Yes, there is even a video that shows it.

The OEM bushing is really soft. Great for NVH isolation, but they allow the front suspension to wallow around a bit too much when pushed hard at the track.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Yes, there is even a video that shows it.

The OEM bushing is really soft. Great for NVH isolation, but they allow the front suspension to wallow around a bit too much when pushed hard at the track.

That's great!! I guess I got confused. I will be refreshing my front end at around 150k miles. So these bushings will be going in. Make a review, once you install them.