Water thermostat

[Corleone1]

Hello - Sweden here...

Anyone knows about lower the water temp? Thermostat is open between 95 and 100 degrees C. A bit high in my opinion. 80 would be enough I think as many of us has tuned cars.

In our GTRs we use 70 degrees C and it help to avoid heat soak.

Anyone?

 

[D.J.]

Is yours electronically controlled?

Mine - Canada is both wax expanding plus electric assist for the thermostat.

Since it is electric assist, When the car determines it needs more cooling, there is a heater (electric) that turns on to heat the thermostat to open it more, cooling the engine to about 85 when the heated thermostat is on.

I tracked this using an OBDII reader and my phone while driving to work, temperature is around 100 steady while commuting, but if I accelerate, it drops to 80-85 within seconds, until I back off the throttle and it rises back up to 100'ish

Strange warning from http://www.kstinger.com/electric_thermostat_ect_-372.html



The heated thermostat is supposed to provide less friction, normally, and more cooling when the computer decides (high load conditions)

Would be nice to be able to trick the computer to turning on the ECT heater, for more cooling.

 

[Corleone1]

Great explanation!

Yes, it would be nice if someone like LAP3 or Lozic can change ECU tabell for thermostat. Can these guys chime in?

 

[oddball]

In ye-olden-days, we would remove thermostats or drill holes in them to ""increase cooling"". Well, if you're doing hot laps at the drag strip that is perfectly fine. Any other use it's actually worse for the engine.
Internal combustion engines are more efficient at higher temps and anything modern will run over 200 (F) regularly. Heat helps the turbos, too. Modern engines are designed for it. And that's perfectly fine until you get way outside the design envelope, e.g. 1,000 HP.
As long as the ECU retain control of the temp then everything is doing well. The only heat soak I'd worry about at our performance levels is getting a larger intercooler then insulating all the intake/charge piping.
Now, if you're getting the one custom solid deck block and really going all out, then hell, do whatever you want. But for everyone else, please, don't go messing with the cooling system.

 

[D.J.]

Anecdotally, I have been watching my coolant temp VIA OBDII and it does consistently - stay near 100C(212) for my entire commute to work - except for when I pull out to pass or accelerate onto a highway - where it very quickly drops to 80C(176F).

I am surprised at how quickly the electronic thermostat reacts.

 

[Corleone1]

Ok, I will also log my temp with JB4. If it drops quick at wot it seems no need to try to lower temp. Good

 

[Kelley863]

Hello - Sweden here...

Anyone knows about lower the water temp? Thermostat is open between 95 and 100 degrees C. A bit high in my opinion. 80 would be enough I think as many of us has tuned cars.

In our GTRs we use 70 degrees C and it help to avoid heat soak.

Anyone?

How much hp do your stinger have I’m trying to see what all I need to get 500hp, if you don’t mind me asking.

 

[Corleone1]

How much hp do your stinger have I’m trying to see what all I need to get 500hp, if you don’t mind me asking.

1. Fuel: To be safe you need to run E85 or mix of that. It will then need a HPFP (BMW from burger) also CPI (from Burger)
2. Exhaust. To have more power in upper range you need big downpipes and it will release stress as power will come with less boost
3. Intakes, not so necessary, (I dont like that loud sound of open ones)
4. JB4 with custom tune
5. Also another ECU tune with less torque limits, higher timing, max 18.5 degrees with E85 and probably 15-16 with E85 blend 50/50
   
   Without all adds on my car with only exhaust, JB4 and meth did in a very restrictive new Mustang Dyno 384 whp but more in a Dynojet.
   
   Its difficult to go halfway, exhaust and JB4 is the easiest way, then for the last 50 whp you need more fuel, timing and DP;s. Turbos is then the limit, probably around 450 whp bu the it will be + 500 engine hp´s.