Alignment Specs After

[socalvn]

What do you guys think about these alignment specs not sure if I'm happy with this?

 

[socalvn]

I'm back at the shop having the front set to 0 camber 0 toe

 

[Snicklefritz]

from what I've read you don't get an alignment after lowering for at least two weeks.
and unless you have installed coilovers you can't adjust camber in front on stock suspension.

 

[socalvn]

from what I've read you don't get an alignment after lowering for at least two weeks.
and unless you have installed coilovers you can't adjust camber in front on stock suspension.

I have been on coilovers for a year was just playing with height/camber adjustment

 

[Volfy]

You're running 20" wheels, so you don't need - or want - too much negative camber. That said, you're lowered a substantial amount, so your suspension is basically operating in the upper 1/2 or maybe even 1/3 of the design travel range. With our MacPherson strut front, what's left of your suspension articulation likely doesn't have much camber gain left. That camber gain might even reverse when nearing the extreme end of compression. If so, your front will start exhibiting camber LOSS. Not good. So... having at least some static negative camber might be a better compromise... to preserve some dynamic camber on the outside wheel.

As for the toe numbers... I prefer alignment shops that measure them in degrees, instead of raw differential distances, which is what I think your numbers are. With RWD, front toe is usually set between 0.00deg to a very slight amount, like 0.20deg. Rear toe - on the driven wheels - should have a little bit of toe-in, like less than 1/2deg total.

 

[socalvn]

You're running 20" wheels, so you don't need - or want - too much negative camber. That said, you're lowered a substantial amount, so your suspension is basically operating in the upper 1/2 or maybe even 1/3 of the design travel range. With our MacPherson strut front, what's left of your suspension articulation likely doesn't have much camber gain left. That camber gain might even reverse when nearing the extreme end of compression. If so, your front will start exhibiting camber LOSS. Not good. So... having at least some static negative camber might be a better compromise... to preserve some dynamic camber on the outside wheel.

As for the toe numbers... I prefer alignment shops that measure them in degrees, instead of raw differential distances, which is what I think your numbers are. With RWD, front toe is usually set between 0.00deg to a very slight amount, like 0.20deg. Rear toe - on the driven wheels - should have a little bit of toe-in, like less than 1/2deg total.

The shop that did my alignment was old school tape and string measurements and they struggled today to get it right, I left with 1 1/6 neg rear and 7/8 neg front camber with a small amount of toe in.
I would prefer to put it on a regular machine but have struggled to find someone abble, I think I have pushed lowering to the limit on my Stinger for a daily driver

 

[socalvn]

I found a shop with computer alignment scheduled for next Wednesday lifted the front back to 26.5 inches to more practical that way