2.5t with Map 2 JB4 Dragy results

Saab was just an example of what people do, regardless of the car brand.
I'm not trying to impose my point of view. I just think, that for many people like myself, 2.5 is a good compromise with lots of arguments behind it. Maybe it works differently in the States but the gas is much cheaper, so be aware that here in Poland we pay 1,6$ per 1 litre of gas which gives around 6,5$ per gallon (~2x more than in the states) while the average salary here is ~3x lower. That should give You an idea of what kind of savings it makes in a long term and how much easier for an average person is to buy/trade for a 3.3 Stinger in the USA, or for a bigger engine in general.
As my DD, the 30+ % MPG improvement over the 3.3 TT was an acceptable compromise. I drive 25k miles annually, so I wanted to be “fair” to my business- I am coming from a Prius Prime after all. I suppose if I kept the Prius, I’d have the best of both worlds with the 3.3TT, but CarMax gave me $18k for a 5yr old Prius (bought in early 2018) with 90k miles that I only paid $19.5k after EV credits/Toyota rebates…i couldn’t resist and my monthly payments are low for a $45k car
 
As my DD, the 30+ % MPG improvement over the 3.3 TT was an acceptable compromise. I drive 25k miles annually, so I wanted to be “fair” to my business- I am coming from a Prius Prime after all. I suppose if I kept the Prius, I’d have the best of both worlds with the 3.3TT, but CarMax gave me $18k for a 5yr old Prius (bought in early 2018) with 90k miles that I only paid $19.5k after EV credits/Toyota rebates…i couldn’t resist and my monthly payments are low for a $45k car
I agree with the compromise between MPG and speed (along with price) that put me towards the 2.5T over the 3.3T. I do have a JB4 installed as well on MAP 2 which does actually make a difference as well.

On a sidenote, I am able to run the JB4 on map 2 with stock plugs on 91 octane without issue. I'm not sure if the 2.5T is less susceptible to misfires or issues compared to the 2.0T or 3.3T, but Terry advised my logs were clean and stock plugs would work.
 
Same reasons why I chose the 2.5t. I put on about 20-25k per year due to my job, the additional fuel savings is substantial, and the JB4 (which can be resold later) gets one within a couple tenths of a stock 3.3. Furthermore, no issues with Brembo brake pads causing issues, the direct and port injection means no carbon buildup on valves, and a lower monthly payment/purchase price all make the 2.5 a reasonable purchase with acceptable compromises in power for those of us that didn't feel compelled to buy the 3.3.

But I'll reiterate my opinion that if one ultimately wants to hit 400hp and higher, it makes more sense to switch to the 3.3. So far, though, I have been completely satisfied with my 2.5t, and don't feel compelled to change.
 
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I agree with the compromise between MPG and speed (along with price) that put me towards the 2.5T over the 3.3T. I do have a JB4 installed as well on MAP 2 which does actually make a difference as well.

On a sidenote, I am able to run the JB4 on map 2 with stock plugs on 91 octane without issue. I'm not sure if the 2.5T is less susceptible to misfires or issues compared to the 2.0T or 3.3T, but Terry advised my logs were clean and stock plugs would work.
I have a 2.5, I want to get a jb4 but im hesitant because of spark plugs. Did u regap your stock ones? How do u get ahold of terry?
 
Motortrend's test includes a 1 foot rollout. My AWD stock 6.1 on Dragy is also a 5.85 with a 1 foot rollout, which is about on par with the 5.7 Motortrend got with their lighter test car being RWD. My Map 2 5.60 is a 5.35 with the 1 foot rollout.

No clue how Kia claims a 5.2, unless it was a light RWD with a 90 lb test driver, 1/2 gallon of gas in the tank, spare tire removed, a strong tail wind, and below sea level air density. And even then... ;)
i got a kia k5 and im running 0-60mph in 5.2
 
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For those interested, I got the new colder NGK plugs installed (ILKR9Q7G) gapped at .025. I'm running E30-E31 right now in Map4 and I tell you the car woke up.
I also installed a Fuel it sensor. As far as I know, I may be the first to do this on a 2.5. It's a bit tricky because you have a low pressure fuel line leading directly to the injectors on top of the intake, and a line running out from there into the HPFP. I took pictures of my setup and how I had to rotate one of the factory lines 180 degrees so it would all fit under the engine cover with no obstructions or pinched fuel lines. Next post I'll work on a quick tutorial with a photo or two of my setup in case anyone else wants to do the same.
 
What is your 2.5 Capable of?
Bottom line up front…
The JB4 MAP4 added roughly 45-50 HP. It dropped over .5 sec on the 1/8 and gained 7 mph trap, and dropped roughly .8 sec off the 0-60 I estimate the HP of the 2.5t around 340 as it sits.

Stock Weight 3740TempAltitudeDA0-6060’1/8MPH1/4MPH
No JB7524016206.172.2609.3078.54
Map4 E327733818005.402.1408.7584.9213.31107.78
 
^^2.5T for the older generation of stinger owners :).
Easy there, young fellow. As one of the "experienced drivers" I'm enjoying the rather tame GT2, but I've built monsters out of a convertible SVT Cobra Terminator and the "200 mph Mustang" 2013 GT500. Both of them had way over twice the HP and torque the 3.3 TT has hitting the pavement. I had a lot of fun with those cars at the drag strip!
I love my Stinger but not a day goes by that I don't miss that Terminator!
 
What is your 2.5 Capable of?
Bottom line up front…
The JB4 MAP4 added roughly 45-50 HP. It dropped over .5 sec on the 1/8 and gained 7 mph trap, and dropped roughly .8 sec off the 0-60 I estimate the HP of the 2.5t around 340 as it sits.

Stock Weight 3740TempAltitudeDA0-6060’1/8MPH1/4MPH
No JB7524016206.172.2609.3078.54
Map4 E327733818005.402.1408.7584.9213.31107.78
I have the 2.5t AWD, my best 0-60 is 5.6sec with traction control off on level/straight road. Other times, were around between 5.7-5.8 secs. How did you get 6.17sec 0-60 stock??
 
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I have the 2.5t AWD, my best 0-60 is 5.6sec with traction control off on level/straight road. Other times, were around between 5.7-5.8 secs. How did you get 6.17sec 0-60 stock??
I'm RWD probably, sooo hard to launch and not spin.
I tried three different ways. Launch control on, Launch control off with the slack taken out, Launch control off with just a gas pedal smash. Best was 6.17 full weight, full tank.
 
Traded in my Stinger last week, and unpaired my JB4 from my account and disconnected everything. Will have the JB4 for the 2.5 listed FOR SALE soon with the bluetooth module. $450 plus shipping/insurance/tracking info to your zip code. To avoid scams and losers, I'd prefer a local to Illinois to assure a legitimate in-person transaction, but would ship to someone here that has a demonstrated history of being someone of integrity, or on the Facebook Stinger 2.5t group. If you've recently signed up or have limited account activity here, I'll only deal with you in person. Feel free to research me as well so you feel comfortable buying.

You'll also need to pay to use their app, also ($30ish I think). With these wire connectors, you may need to use a ziptie to keep it snug. Mine would sometimes loosen up on long highway drives, so I would cut-off a ziptie end and wedge it in the side of the connectors for a more secure fit. Others owners have also done a ziptie around both ends to keep it snug, so keep that it mind. If you don't do that, you'll know if it comes loose if the car starts bucking and shifting harshly. So I recommend using zipties to keep it snug. It worked well on Map 1 (91 octane), 2 (93 octane) and 3 (e30: 93 for 11 gallons and e85 for 4 gallons). Definitely loved how it ran, and it felt slow as hell when I removed it LOL. Ran great with stock sparkplugs with no issues. I'd only consider colder spark plugs if running Map 3 in hotter climates, for example, but otherwise stick with the stock plugs. Any questions or interest, feel free to let me know and send a message. Thanks!
jb44.webpjb43.webpjb42.webpjb41.webp
 
It's difficult to guess that it's maxed out or not, since nobody has done a downpipe (not available), a true intake (not available beyond a generic cone filter) or run more than E30 on it, or played around with custom maps. I'm not going further with mods on mine as it's my daily driver for work and family duty.

If one wants more power and speed than what a JB4 provides for the 2.5t, though, then they are better served by just trading for a 3.3 Stinger. Which is why I suspect there really won't be much aftermarket development for the 2.5t as there is minimal demand.
Stinger and G70 2.5T High Flow Cat Downpipe (EPA Approved) ****Pre OrdYou can pre order a down pipe and there is a true CAI now
 
Good to know that development is continuing for the 2.5t! I traded mine in last week with 60,000 trouble free miles, about 45,000 miles of which was with a JB4.
What did you trade your Stinger in for?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
What did you trade your Stinger in for?
Bronco with 2.7 V6TT (330hp, 415tq) that will soon have a JB4 once I sell the one from my Stinger. :)

Bronco top down.webp
 
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Bronco with 2.7 V6TT (330hp, 415tq) that will soon have a JB4 once I sell the one from my Stinger. :)

View attachment 86211
Oooh, nice and I've been saying that color- I believe Ford calls it Eruption green, is what I wish my Ascot green looked like. Simply a beautiful green.
Good luck!
How do you like the way it drives??
 
Oooh, nice and I've been saying that color- I believe Ford calls it Eruption green, is what I wish my Ascot green looked like. Simply a beautiful green.
Good luck!
How do you like the way it drives??
Thread derail continued: ;) Yes, that's the color from Ford. It really pops with a bunch of gold metallic in the sun. It's a vastly different driving experience then the Stinger, of course. But it's smooth and comfortable, although a bit noisier. Oh, and I'm no longer in fear of potholes LOL.
Bronco green.webp
 
Traded in my Stinger last week, and unpaired my JB4 from my account and disconnected everything. Will have the JB4 for the 2.5 listed FOR SALE soon with the bluetooth module. $450 plus shipping/insurance/tracking info to your zip code. To avoid scams and losers, I'd prefer a local to Illinois to assure a legitimate in-person transaction, but would ship to someone here that has a demonstrated history of being someone of integrity, or on the Facebook Stinger 2.5t group. If you've recently signed up or have limited account activity here, I'll only deal with you in person. Feel free to research me as well so you feel comfortable buying.

You'll also need to pay to use their app, also ($30ish I think). With these wire connectors, you may need to use a ziptie to keep it snug. Mine would sometimes loosen up on long highway drives, so I would cut-off a ziptie end and wedge it in the side of the connectors for a more secure fit. Others owners have also done a ziptie around both ends to keep it snug, so keep that it mind. If you don't do that, you'll know if it comes loose if the car starts bucking and shifting harshly. So I recommend using zipties to keep it snug. It worked well on Map 1 (91 octane), 2 (93 octane) and 3 (e30: 93 for 11 gallons and e85 for 4 gallons). Definitely loved how it ran, and it felt slow as hell when I removed it LOL. Ran great with stock sparkplugs with no issues. I'd only consider colder spark plugs if running Map 3 in hotter climates, for example, but otherwise stick with the stock plugs. Any questions or interest, feel free to let me know and send a message. Thanks!
View attachment 86203View attachment 86204View attachment 86205View attachment 86206
Price drop to $400, see listing in the classifieds. Thanks!
 
Traded in my Stinger last week, and unpaired my JB4 from my account and disconnected everything. Will have the JB4 for the 2.5 listed FOR SALE soon with the bluetooth module. $450 plus shipping/insurance/tracking info to your zip code. To avoid scams and losers, I'd prefer a local to Illinois to assure a legitimate in-person transaction, but would ship to someone here that has a demonstrated history of being someone of integrity, or on the Facebook Stinger 2.5t group. If you've recently signed up or have limited account activity here, I'll only deal with you in person. Feel free to research me as well so you feel comfortable buying.

You'll also need to pay to use their app, also ($30ish I think). With these wire connectors, you may need to use a ziptie to keep it snug. Mine would sometimes loosen up on long highway drives, so I would cut-off a ziptie end and wedge it in the side of the connectors for a more secure fit. Others owners have also done a ziptie around both ends to keep it snug, so keep that it mind. If you don't do that, you'll know if it comes loose if the car starts bucking and shifting harshly. So I recommend using zipties to keep it snug. It worked well on Map 1 (91 octane), 2 (93 octane) and 3 (e30: 93 for 11 gallons and e85 for 4 gallons). Definitely loved how it ran, and it felt slow as hell when I removed it LOL. Ran great with stock sparkplugs with no issues. I'd only consider colder spark plugs if running Map 3 in hotter climates, for example, but otherwise stick with the stock plugs. Any questions or interest, feel free to let me know and send a message. Thanks!
View attachment 86203View attachment 86204View attachment 86205View attachment 86206
FWIW, I've been running this same JB4 on my 2.5T and have been quite happy with it. That said, those white 3D-printed connector "shells" leave a bit to be desired, as they are not at all water tight. I bought my JB4 used and it came with one of the connectors corroded. Looked like water got into the connector and the copper pins just rusted out. I checked with BMS and was told they now have the correct OEM type connectors on newer production JB4 for the Smartstream engines. They can sell me the new connectors and price wasn't too outrageous, but I would have to send my wiring harness in to get the new connectors retrofitted. That was just a bit too much hassle IMO, so I ended up finding the correct replacement pins and just changed them out myself. Have worked perfectly since.

What I did to keep moisture ingress from corroding the pins again was to wrap the white connectors with electrical mastic tape. Both 3M and Scotch make some good ones. The tape sticks to itself, so wrapping over the white connectors forms a water-proof seal.
IMG20231117113710.webp
IMG20231117114706.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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