Eibach springs and sways

[certified82]

Just sways. I like the stock height. Plus, not every speed bump is an adventure.

True enough! Thanks again

 

[certified82]

I have been running the Eibach F&R sway bars for years, zero regrets. I still say theyre the best mod, I have to grease my front sway bar every 6-12 months otherwise it will begin to squeak over things like speedbumps. A quick shot of grease through the zerk fittings and its good to go. I think i had to grease the rear once in the past 3-4 years.

I had a question about when greasing the sway bars, do you think u access them by jacking up vehicle or would it be easier getting to them by driving the car on ramps? Thank you

 

[Snicklefritz]

I had a question about when greasing the sway bars, do you think u access them by jacking up vehicle or would it be easier getting to them by driving the car on ramps? Thank you

I would put up with creaking for longer if I had to make that choice. but once I made up my mind to do it there is no way that I would use a jack, I would get ramps if I ever inconceivably decided to start getting under my cars. my solution is to pay to have them greased and I don't mind admitting that I pay c. eighty bucks for the job.

 

[certified82]

I would put up with creaking for longer if I had to make that choice. but once I made up my mind to do it there is no way that I would use a jack, I would get ramps if I ever inconceivably decided to start getting under my cars. my solution is to pay to have them greased and I don't mind admitting that I pay c. eighty bucks for the job.

Safety first! I think ramps would be the best option if I were to get under there myself. Thanks @Snicklefritz

 

[Snowwhite]

Ramps are best for this since there won’t be any preload on the swaybars when you remove the bracket to grease them. I just do it every other oil change since I have to be down there anyhow. The rears I haven’t touched since I installed them 3 years back.

 

[certified82]

Ramps are best for this since there won’t be any preload on the swaybars when you remove the bracket to grease them. I just do it every other oil change since I have to be down there anyhow. The rears I haven’t touched since I installed them 3 years back.

Thank you Snowwwhite. I will be getting the Eibachs installed and will grease them through the zerk fittings. I was hoping if the fittings were easily accessed I could drive the front of the car on ramps and then on the rear also. Cheers

 

[Snowwhite]

The rears you’re going to need to use jack stands. There’s no way to get to the fittings without taking off the wheels. The front will require removal of the plastic tray underneath, which I why I do it at oil change time since I have to take the cover off anyhow.

 

[certified82]

The rears you’re going to need to use jack stands. There’s no way to get to the fittings without taking off the wheels. The front will require removal of the plastic tray underneath, which I why I do it at oil change time since I have to take the cover off anyhow.

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I had a question about when greasing the sway bars, do you think u access them by jacking up vehicle or would it be easier getting to them by driving the car on ramps? Thank you

I use ramps, I just grease them whenever I do my oil changes every 6 months.

 

[certified82]

I use ramps, I just grease them whenever I do my oil changes every 6 months.

Thanks @NS_Stinger. Thats good to know. If I can do it myself why not. But for the rear you can access the zerk fittings without having to take off wheels?

 

[Volfy]

Front ones are easy. However, rear grease nipples are difficult enough to reach with wheel OFF, it would be just about impossible with the wheels ON.


As for ramps vs. floor jacks. I guess I will have to be the lone dissenter. I've got no less than 4 floor jacks in my garage, and I find them far more useful. With ramps, you can only raise one end of the car at a time, and the wheels have to be on, which severely limits with you can do. Rules out just about most suspension and wheel/tire related work. Your car is also never going to be level on ramps, which means you cannot do things that require the car to be level, like transmission flush/fill.

As for floor jack safety concerns... I get it. It is a valid point. However, there are lots of ways to mitigate that. The easiest way is the place a jack stand right next to the floor jack and extend its height to be just under the car but not supporting it. This will act as a safety catch, in case the hydraulics in the floor jack fails. Speaking of that... just how often do floor jacks fail catastrophically? In my 35+yrs of pumping floor jacks, I've yet to see one creep enough for me to notice, much less completely failing to keep a car jacked up. As long as I keep mine properly cared for (and replaced when one shows any sign of iffiness), I'd be willing to bet my entire savings - plus my left testicle - that I won't see one fail... ever.

Another way to add a fail-safe is to use some like AGM's Jack Rod. I've been meaning to weld up a DIY version of that. Just have not gotten to it yet. Honestly, sticks of 2x4 cut to various lengths work almost just as well.

Full disclosure... I did have a 2-ton one that started developing a slow oil leak, after 20+(?)yrs of service. Still functioned perfectly, but out of an abundance of caution, I tossed it in the dumpster and bought a new one. I probably could've fixed the leak, but really though, new ones are inexpensively enough they can be treated like any other maintenance item and changed out over time to ensure proper function.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Thanks @NS_Stinger. Thats good to know. If I can do it myself why not. But for the rear you can access the zerk fittings without having to take off wheels?

Yeah pretty sure you have to take off the wheels for the rear. Make sure when you buy a grease gun you get one with a flexible neck on it. I bought one with a solid steel neck and it's a bitch to use. You will want one with a flexible rubber neck like this:

 

[LordKOTL]

The rears you’re going to need to use jack stands. There’s no way to get to the fittings without taking off the wheels. The front will require removal of the plastic tray underneath, which I why I do it at oil change time since I have to take the cover off anyhow.

That was my impression/plan to do it.

The fronts? Yeah, you can get to the zerks whenever you do an oil change.

I tried to be smart and for the rears, I got 90deg zerk fittings for dirt cheap at a local hardware store, and used those rather than the ones that came with the rear bar, and I angled the zerk fitting outward:

This way, whenever I do a tire rotation I can just reach in behind the brake shield, pop the grease gun onto it (I do have the flexible hose type) pump some fresh grease in, and voila.

To do that, though, I have a small lift, and since you're removing the wheel, you'd need to safely raise the vehicle--not on ramps.

 

[certified82]

Front ones are easy. However, rear grease nipples are difficult enough to reach with wheel OFF, it would be just about impossible with the wheels ON.


As for ramps vs. floor jacks. I guess I will have to be the lone dissenter. I've got no less than 4 floor jacks in my garage, and I find them far more useful. With ramps, you can only raise one end of the car at a time, and the wheels have to be on, which severely limits with you can do. Rules out just about most suspension and wheel/tire related work. Your car is also never going to be level on ramps, which means you cannot do things that require the car to be level, like transmission flush/fill.

As for floor jack safety concerns... I get it. It is a valid point. However, there are lots of ways to mitigate that. The easiest way is the place a jack stand right next to the floor jack and extend its height to be just under the car but not supporting it. This will act as a safety catch, in case the hydraulics in the floor jack fails. Speaking of that... just how often do floor jacks fail catastrophically? In my 35+yrs of pumping floor jacks, I've yet to see one creep enough for me to notice, much less completely failing to keep a car jacked up. As long as I keep mine properly cared for (and replaced when one shows any sign of iffiness), I'd be willing to bet my entire savings - plus my left testicle - that I won't see one fail... ever.

Another way to add a fail-safe is to use some like AGM's Jack Rod. I've been meaning to weld up a DIY version of that. Just have not gotten to it yet. Honestly, sticks of 2x4 cut to various lengths work almost just as well.

Full disclosure... I did have a 2-ton one that started developing a slow oil leak, after 20+(?)yrs of service. Still functioned perfectly, but out of an abundance of caution, I tossed it in the dumpster and bought a new one. I probably could've fixed the leak, but really though, new ones are inexpensively enough they can be treated like any other maintenance item and changed out over time to ensure proper function.

Thank you for your detailed feedback and opinion @Volfy I guess when I do get them installed I would have to take a look under there myself to guage what Im dealing with. Did you ever decide to lower your vehicle as well? Any regrets? Thank you, everyone who's chimed in feedback is much appreciated.

 

[certified82]

Yeah pretty sure you have to take off the wheels for the rear. Make sure when you buy a grease gun you get one with a flexible neck on it. I bought one with a solid steel neck and it's a bitch to use. You will want one with a flexible rubber neck like this:

Thank you @NS_Stinger ... I bought one from Canadian Tire and bought a 400g can of marine grease too!

 

[certified82]

That was my impression/plan to do it.

The fronts? Yeah, you can get to the zerks whenever you do an oil change.

I tried to be smart and for the rears, I got 90deg zerk fittings for dirt cheap at a local hardware store, and used those rather than the ones that came with the rear bar, and I angled the zerk fitting outward:

This way, whenever I do a tire rotation I can just reach in behind the brake shield, pop the grease gun onto it (I do have the flexible hose type) pump some fresh grease in, and voila.

To do that, though, I have a small lift, and since you're removing the wheel, you'd need to safely raise the vehicle--not on ramps.

Thanks @LordKOTL it seems like a little bit of work to get to... I wonder if I can get in the good graces of the dealership to get them greased whenever it's time for the oil to be changed.

 

[Volfy]

Did you ever decide to lower your vehicle as well? Any regrets?

My '19 Stinger and '21 G70 both got Eibach Sport springs at first. G70 has since gone to coilovers. '19 is still on Eibach springs but may eventually get coilovers as well. My '23 Stinger went straight to coilovers. No regrets, as the whole process was to show my oldest son the finer points of suspension tuning, so we took it in stages and allow enough time to evaluated at every step.

I myself started chassis tuning all the way back in the late '80s early '90s.

 

[certified82]

My '19 Stinger and '21 G70 both got Eibach Sport springs at first. G70 has since gone to coilovers. '19 is still on Eibach springs but may eventually get coilovers as well. My '23 Stinger went straight to coilovers. No regrets, as the whole process was to show my oldest son the finer points of suspension tuning, so we took it in stages and allow enough time to evaluated at every step.

I myself started chassis tuning all the way back in the late '80s early '90s.

That's such a great experience to share with your son. I truly admire that. I myself don't have any kids as of yet but when I do I hope I get to share these experiences with them as well. As for suspension tuning I've never had any experience with adjustable coils. My first ever vehicle was a 1988 FC Mazda Rx7 stage 2 turbo on springs. I remember scraping a few times in that car and I didn't like it. These are my concerns with the Stinger if I do pull the trigger on Eibach springs, is how easy can I scrape my side skirts or front end or bottoming out with the springs on the car, but still being mindful of angling into speed bumps and parking lots, and also divets in the road. Again I appreciate everyone's feedback so far it's great reading everyone's answers. Thanks again!

 

[LordKOTL]

Thanks @LordKOTL it seems like a little bit of work to get to... I wonder if I can get in the good graces of the dealership to get them greased whenever it's time for the oil to be changed.

When I installed them I wanted to test everything, so when I installed the bushings I put a very light application of grease.

After installing, I got out my grease gun to give a full application. With the wheel off, it's not too hard to reach in and get to the zerk with a long flexible house like my Ryobi gun has.

Also, the manual for my 2022 says to rotate the tires every 6k miles for severe (a.k.a. normal) driving conditions. Since you have to have the wheels off to rotate the tires, I figure that's when to do it. So, maybe every other oil change.

 

[certified82]

When I installed them I wanted to test everything, so when I installed the bushings I put a very light application of grease.

After installing, I got out my grease gun to give a full application. With the wheel off, it's not too hard to reach in and get to the zerk with a long flexible house like my Ryobi gun has.

Also, the manual for my 2022 says to rotate the tires every 6k miles for severe (a.k.a. normal) driving conditions. Since you have to have the wheels off to rotate the tires, I figure that's when to do it. So, maybe every other oil change.

Right I understand. Im getting my sways dealer installed this Thursday. I bought a grease gun with a flexible hose as well as marine grease so I'll ask the tech to blast a generous amount into the fittings.