Would a warped rotor cause a vibration while NOT under braking?

[JLMann82]

Would a warped rotor cause a vibration while NOT under braking?

I am trying to remedy a “buffeting” vibration in this GT2 that I just bought.
It’s inconsistent in when it happens, and it’s NOT when I’m braking.
The cars has been re-aligned and the tires have been rebalanced, but no luck.
My next step is either a new wheel/tire setup or brakes. I just wanted to ask the question before choosing.
TIA!

 

[socalvn]

I would say no
Rear drive shaft CV joints tight.
Try rotating your tires front to back

 

[Thomby]

It's possible that a warped rotor (or the much more common uneven buildup of deposits) could cause a vibration if a brake pad is dragging. Does braking stop it, or just have no effect?

One thing you can do to try to narrow down the source is to find a long sweeping turn to lean the car into, and see if it gets more severe as the weight shifts to one side or the other. Same thing with accelerating or braking to shift weight forward and back.

 

[Volfy]

Warp rotors would only cause felt vibration and noise while the brake pads are in contact. At fwy speeds, as soon as your foot is off the brake pedal, the wobbling rotors will push the pads out almost instantaneously. At slower speed crawling thru traffic, it might take a few rotor rotations to push the rotors clear.

In reality, the likelihood of warped rotors is extremely rare. Unless the vibes are happening only on brake application, that means it is most likely some other cause. First things you should determine:

1. Which end of the car is the vibration coming from?

2. Is the frequency of vibration vehicle speed dependent, or is it engine RPM dependent?

Just those two will help narrow the possible source. Otherwise, you are just throwing some expensive darts in the dark.

 

[JLMann82]

It's possible that a warped rotor (or the much more common uneven buildup of deposits) could cause a vibration if a brake pad is dragging. Does braking stop it, or just have no effect?

One thing you can do to try to narrow down the source is to find a long sweeping turn to lean the car into, and see if it gets more severe as the weight shifts to one side or the other. Same thing with accelerating or braking to shift weight forward and back.

Braking has no effect.
What would your diagnosis tell me?

Warp rotors would only cause felt vibration and noise while the brake pads are in contact. At fwy speeds, as soon as your foot is off the brake pedal, the wobbling rotors will push the pads out almost instantaneously. At slower speed crawling thru traffic, it might take a few rotor rotations to push the rotors clear.

In reality, the likelihood of warped rotors is extremely rare. Unless the vibes are happening only on brake application, that means it is most likely some other cause. First things you should determine:

1. Which end of the car is the vibration coming from?

2. Is the frequency of vibration vehicle speed dependent, or is it engine RPM dependent?

Just those two will help narrow the possible source. Otherwise, you are just throwing some expensive darts in the dark.

1. I can't pinpoint it. I feel it in my ears at the worst, but really I just feel it through my body. There isn't really any component shake.

2. It seems to be speed dependent. I've been paying more attention to it, and it seems like being in the 60's is the worst. I don't feel unsafe at all when I'm going 75-80.

I just put hub rings on it, since it's got aftermarket 20" rims and tires, but that didn't fix it.
After first drive, it seems like it amplified it at lower speeds. But again, I don't feel it once I'm past 75'ish.

 

[JSolo]

Could it be bad bearings somewhere. When the accord had its rear bearings begin to go, the noise sounded like a prop on a plane, varying in rpm with speed. I can't say I felt it. At least not initially, near the end when it was getting really bad, felt more like a hitch freq vibration throughout the car.

 

[Thomby]

Braking has no effect.
What would your diagnosis tell me?

That it's not the brakes But if you can narrow it down to a side or corner, then we can start considering things like a single bad wheel bearing. @Volfy asked about it being speed- vs. rpm-dependent because that would narrow it to wheels/driveshaft/transmission output versus engine/torque converter/transmission input.

1. I can't pinpoint it. I feel it in my ears at the worst, but really I just feel it through my body. There isn't really any component shake.
2. It seems to be speed dependent. I've been paying more attention to it, and it seems like being in the 60's is the worst. I don't feel unsafe at all when I'm going 75-80.
I just put hub rings on it, since it's got aftermarket 20" rims and tires, but that didn't fix it.
After first drive, it seems like it amplified it at lower speeds. But again, I don't feel it once I'm past 75'ish.

Speed dependent, and recent change in wheels/tires, would point to the 20s as the culprit. If they've all been balanced, maybe an issue with concentricity or a bend. Do you have a stock or other set you could swap out to test? And have you retorqued the lug nuts?

 

[JLMann82]

That it's not the brakes But if you can narrow it down to a side or corner, then we can start considering things like a single bad wheel bearing. @Volfy asked about it being speed- vs. rpm-dependent because that would narrow it to wheels/driveshaft/transmission output versus engine/torque converter/transmission input.


Speed dependent, and recent change in wheels/tires, would point to the 20s as the culprit. If they've all been balanced, maybe an issue with concentricity or a bend. Do you have a stock or other set you could swap out to test? And have you retorqued the lug nuts?

No stocks unfortunately. I've contemplating buying a set, but might as well buy an aftermarket set of what I want (I don't like what's on it now). I was hoping I could figure it out with a cheaper avenue, and I could hold off until pot hole season is over... I've been shopping both 19's and 20's.

 

[Thomby]

You could also put it up on jack stands and spin the front wheels to see if they rotate smoothly or if one has resistance or a noticeable wobble. While you're at it, might as well look at the backs of each wheel in case there's a visible bend. And see if you can physically move the wheel or any suspension links you can reach -- nothing should have any slack.

For the rears you'll probably need to either have the car running and exit the passenger side, or pop off the tab in front of the E-shifter to force it into neutral (opening the driver's side door will make it shift to Park, and I'm pretty sure the same thing happens if you shut the car off in neutral). You'll still be spinning the diff and transmission output shaft so I'm not sure how useful it will be, but it won't cost you anything in parts to try.

 

[JLMann82]

You could also put it up on jack stands and spin the front wheels to see if they rotate smoothly or if one has resistance or a noticeable wobble. While you're at it, might as well look at the backs of each wheel in case there's a visible bend. And see if you can physically move the wheel or any suspension links you can while you're at it -- nothing should have any slack.

For the rears you'll probably need to either have the car running and exit the passenger side, or pop off the tab in front of the E-shifter to force it into neutral (opening the driver's side door will make it shift to Park, and I'm pretty sure the same thing happens if you shut the car off in neutral). You'll still be spinning the diff and transmission output shaft so I'm not sure how useful it will be, but it won't cost you anything in parts to try.

Thanks for the input. I might have to bribe a friend who's got a heated shop w/ a lift...lol

 

[Ah GetFd]

No

As Volify said the rotor will knock the brake pad back just as it does when the rotor is not warped so that the brake pad sits just off the rotor.

Look for something else.

Previous complaints here have been loose streamlining panels under the body. Have a look at those.

 

[Chark]

Does it ever go away? I've noticed sometimes that when my tires are cold, there's a little bit of a flat spot from sitting still that I can notice as a vibration when I first start driving. Once the tires warm up and they get softer, the vibration goes away.

 

[JLMann82]

Does it ever go away? I've noticed sometimes that when my tires are cold, there's a little bit of a flat spot from sitting still that I can notice as a vibration when I first start driving. Once the tires warm up and they get softer, the vibration goes away.

Unfortunately not.
Having a head cold right now seems to amplify it too…lol

 

[booboofast]

Only thing I've found to help with this since upgrading to 20s is rebalance after the service center installs the tires. I use to race motorcycles so I had to swap my tires regularly and balance myself. I put the stinger wheels on my balancer and I was able to get most of the vibration out but admittedly the still a little. I'd be curious to know what rims you're riding in. Maybe see if it's the same manufacturer. I'm on element rims.

 

[GT Elite]

Only thing I've found to help with this since upgrading to 20s is rebalance after the service center installs the tires. I use to race motorcycles so I had to swap my tires regularly and balance myself. I put the stinger wheels on my balancer and I was able to get most of the vibration out but admittedly the still a little. I'd be curious to know what rims you're riding in. Maybe see if it's the same manufacturer. I'm on element rims.

I agree that the wheels may need to be re-balanced. There are two aspects to wheel balancing. The firsts is static balance which ensures the weight is consistent around the wheel.. I suspect this is okay. The second is dynamic balance, which only shows up when a wheel is spinning. It is due to a wheel having a heavy spot on one side of the wheel. It can result in a wheel wobble. It is corrected by adding weight on the opposite side of the wheel, 180 degrees away from the heavy spot.

 

[JLMann82]

Only thing I've found to help with this since upgrading to 20s is rebalance after the service center installs the tires. I use to race motorcycles so I had to swap my tires regularly and balance myself. I put the stinger wheels on my balancer and I was able to get most of the vibration out but admittedly the still a little. I'd be curious to know what rims you're riding in. Maybe see if it's the same manufacturer. I'm on element rims.

I agree that the wheels may need to be re-balanced. There are two aspects to wheel balancing. The firsts is static balance which ensures the weight is consistent around the wheel.. I suspect this is okay. The second is dynamic balance, which only shows up when a wheel is spinning. It is due to a wheel having a heavy spot on one side of the wheel. It can result in a wheel wobble. It is corrected by adding weight on the opposite side of the wheel, 180 degrees away from the heavy spot.

I agree with both of you, thinking it’s the culprit. The most expensive one too…lol

The existing rims are on the cheaper end, and I don’t believe they were installed/maintained by the best shops…

 

[JLMann82]

Fixed my shake...
Started a thread to share my specs.

 

[JSolo]

^^Replacing the car is one way to fix the problem...