Stripped drain plug

[JSolo]

^^Wait, but the jack stand isn't touching the control arm. Looks to be 1-2" below it? So if your floor jack fails, car would drop a small distance before jackstand catches.

Wouldn't placing under the knuckle be better... Or better yet under the factory pinch weld location?

Also, no chocked rear wheels??

Btw, pretty good aim to get it to drain right into the jug .

 

[D.J.]

^^Wait, but the jack stand isn't touching the control arm. Looks to be 1-2" below it? So if your floor jack fails, car would drop a small distance before jackstand catches.

Wouldn't placing under the knuckle be better... Or better yet under the factory pinch weld location?

Also, no chocked rear wheels??

Btw, pretty good aim to get it to drain right into the jug .

View attachment 82566

correct - gap between jack stand and control arm. Jack stands are only used if my jack(s) fail. ~2" gap = good enough for me.
Jack stand would hit the rim/tire - and not fully align to the area you circled
yes rear wheel are chocked - I mentioned that in post #14 from years ago

Can't put a jackstand on the pinch weld - as I am jacking from the pinch weld

Not good aim - have a ~6" clear hose between quick change valve and oil container.

 

[LordKOTL]

Given the typical low torque spec for a drain bolt, I can't imagine how anyone could round one off. Even if the problem were overtightening, I'd expect the threads or drain pan to die first.

It could also be some jackwagon who tries to use an imperial socket on a metric hex head... Like if you take it in for an oil change and you get a bad tech.

 

[turboAWD]

correct - gap between jack stand and control arm. Jack stands are only used if my jack(s) fail. ~2" gap = good enough for me.
Jack stand would hit the rim/tire - and not fully align to the area you circled
yes rear wheel are chocked - I mentioned that in post #14 from years ago

Can't put a jackstand on the pinch weld - as I am jacking from the pinch weld

Doesn't the pinch weld run the entire length? I squeeze my pinch weld adapters in like 12 inches down from the exposed part for my jack, then put the jack stands in the open spot (with puck adapters).

I gotta say - I wish there was a better way to jack up the car - my Subaru had a couple of points in the center that were called out in the manual that you could use, like the transmission cradle or whatever. I'm a little too scared to jack up using the rear diff.

I HAVE thought about the Harbor Freight arm adapter.

 

[Ah GetFd]

I expect the thread is stripped in the sump not the bolt. If its alloy its a lot softer than a bolt. A mechanic would not do that. Finger tight with a nip is all that is required if you haven't a torque wrench and mechanics don't need a torque wrench. I would say it was done by an idiot with absolutely no idea using VFT as the primary option.

Cutting out the bottom cover..............it's there to provide streamlining under the car....