Rack and pinion potentially needing replaced at 25k

[SnowyGT2]

I go to the dealership (yuck) this week for noise when turning while moving. Mechanical clunk and sounds like it is coming from the front left. Thought it could be the sway bar or ball joint since it seems to happen when vehicle weight shifts. Had a mechanic look underneath and states nothing appears loose but the steering rack and pinion makes noise when hit. Really hoping they find the issue and don't blame aftermarket parts. We'll see what happens.

 

[djerickd]

oh no!! hope all goes well.. is the clunk loud??

 

[SnowyGT2]

Dealer heard the noise but was unable to pinpoint the source. Tech wanted to remove these aftermarkets parts: intercooler, intakes, sway bars and exhaust. I told them forget it and I will have it checked out by someone else. Tbh I expected they would mention at least the sway bar but all of those other components? no so much...

Normally if I had the time and resources I would take most aftermarket parts off for a potential warranty repair but figured I try and see if it was an easy fix or at least figure out if it really is the rack and pinion.

oh no!! hope all goes well.. is the clunk loud??

Not loud only really noticeable at lower speed. It does not seem to come through to the steering wheel.

 

[Deviate]

Yea...cause those parts affect the steering right? Idiots I swear. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[keplaffintech]

Tech wanted to remove these aftermarkets parts

This is likely because they don't want to deal with your problem and so they're making it difficult for you to deal with them and hoping you'll go somewhere else.

 

[JSolo]

Give this a watch. Make your head spin.

 

[rpoffen]

Give this a watch. Make your head spin.

That's the problem. Dealer mechanics only read the codes and are ready to replace everything at owners expense. Hardly anyone truly diagnoses the real issue anymore. The guy in the video actually knows how stuff works and how to drill down to the real issue.

 

[JSolo]

^^Sad thing is, after $5K in parts/labor, the problem would continue.

 

[rpoffen]

That's the problem. Dealer mechanics only read the codes and are ready to replace everything at owners expense. Hardly anyone truly diagnoses the real issue anymore. The guy in the video actually knows how stuff works and how to drill down to the real issue.

It certainly helps that he has access to all the schematics for the wiring.

 

[Fredman]

If it happens only when vehicle weight shifts then I am leaning towards aftermarket part being loose or mounted too close to something.
I think if they suspected that then they would want you to remove your things first rather than them do it and have to charge you for the whole thing.

 

[socalvn]

it's your sway bar end links

 

[St1nger Guy]

I did a hard launch and I'm fully tuned ecu and tcu. I held the brake a tad too long and now I have a similar clunk. I'm AWD and I'm pretty sure I stretched the CV joint on the right half shaft. If you're tuned, either don't launch it or don't hold it too long. More than 1 second is too long. I've only launched this thing maybe 15 times since I bought it brand new but it only took once after being tuned to damage something. When you turn, your tires rotate at different speeds and that change in rotation speed may cause the clunk if it's a CV joint. I don't know 100% for sure if that's what it is, but seems highly likely. They make stethoscopes for vehicles that have a solid wire on the end used to diagnose noises. You can get one cheap on Amazon. Get it on a lift and have a buddy turn the wheel while sticking the probe in various areas and you should be able to find the culprit. Make sure it's solid on the lift because it needs to be in gear with the tires spinning slowly. Braking and changing from D to R can also cause the clunk.

 

[D.J.]

I'm pretty sure I stretched the CV joint on the right half shaft.

Stretched?

 

[JSolo]

^^Twisted maybe?

 

[D.J.]

^^Twisted maybe?

How much power we laying down here?

 

[SnowyGT2]

I appreciate you all sharing and for the recommendations. I haven’t had the time to have the mechanic take a closer look hoping sometime next week. I’m fairly confident it is not the rack and either a joint or end link like others have mentioned.

 

[St1nger Guy]

Stretched?

False alarm, my whiteline swaybar links didn't hold up. My fault for not shortening them after lowering the car. One end was basically frozen solid on one side of the car and the other side had a joint so loose it flopped around in the socket. I took the front swaybar completely off the car since I don't have replacement sway bar links and with the Mando set to stiffen the front suspension I honestly can't even tell I don't have a sway bar. It's so much quieter now too. I'll be running no swaybar in the front unless I take it to the track. I do have the eibach swaybar in the rear still which I'm sure is putting in work without the front.

 

[D.J.]

False alarm, my whiteline swaybar links didn't hold up. My fault for not shortening them after lowering the car. One end was basically frozen solid on one side of the car and the other side had a joint so loose it flopped around in the socket. I took the front swaybar completely off the car since I don't have replacement sway bar links and with the Mando set to stiffen the front suspension I honestly can't even tell I don't have a sway bar. It's so much quieter now too. I'll be running no swaybar in the front unless I take it to the track. I do have the eibach swaybar in the rear still which I'm sure is putting in work without the front.

so, the whiteline end links are weaker than stock?

You do not "need" to shorten the end links when lowering....plenty of people run stock end links while lowered.

 

[stoopid]

Give this a watch. Make your head spin.

Wow, that was a seriously fun watch. Tickled my inner geek seeing how that ended up getting fixed, but his approach to the entire troubleshooting process was flawless.