I know this is somewhat mundane, but I'm in the market for a new floor jack (so I can try to install my swaybars (once they arrive)) and I'm wondering if y'all have any 'fan favorites'?
I have a Daytona three ton low profile from Harbor Freight, works great. I did see that Costco has a 3 ton low profile that is on sale right now, I might grab that one too.
I bought the 2-tn Professional Daytona (green/black) from Harbor Freight last month, very happy with it. It seems of excellent quality and lightweight (42lbs)- Its $209, but you can get 10% off if you take out there credit card. I'm way done lugging around the 100lb 3-tn on chitty ground. I also bought the "crossbeam", but I've not used it. Amazon sells a 4-pk of pucks for $15 or so, perfect lifting the pinch welds.
Hopefully I'm recovered well enough from COVID by then go shopping.
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Not sure I mentioned it, but I literally bought the car and found out my wife had 'a headache'. I drove home, picked up some food and ibuprofen, drove it out to where she and the kids were, and came home. The following morning (Easter Sunday) she woke up with a sore throat, tested herself, and realized she was COVID-19 positive. The kids fell like dominos starting a couple days later... I played nursemaid to everyone and made it until Thursday before I really felt like I had any symptoms, and I tested positive on Friday. Fun times.
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+1 for the Daytona 3 ton unless you're planning on taking the jack to track day events, it's a bit heavy to pick up and move around, for that duty I have an older daytona aluminum 2ton jack.
Tempted to start doing my own oil changes, using a jack and stands has always been my preferred method for getting the car off the ground (versus ramps). Thanks for starting the topic.
Amazing deals on this Steel Service Jack Cross Beam at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I have one of those arcan costco jacks. It doesn't quite fit under the car with this contraption. Instead, I have to prelift at the rear with an old sears jack (probably 20+ years old). Then I can slide this under (barely).
^^What he said. If your car is lowered at all, def NOT gonna work easily, as it compromises the minimum height to access the pinch welds. My car is AWD, so I think I have another half inch more than the RWD Stingers and I don't think I can get it underneath without a helper jack, but I've yet to actually try. The CrossBeam replaces the lift pad, so you gain maybe a half inch, but you may lose as many as 3.5-4", more if your using pucks- but all just a guesstimate...
Amazing deals on this Steel Service Jack Cross Beam at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I have one of those arcan costco jacks. It doesn't quite fit under the car with this contraption. Instead, I have to prelift at the rear with an old sears jack (probably 20+ years old). Then I can slide this under (barely).
This is really slick. Is there a good frame member we can use to jack up the entire front-end in a single go (and then secure with jack stands at the right spots behind the front wheels)?
^^ I place the above just to the rear of the front jacking point. The rear section is somewhere near the front/rear door seam. I use 4" hockey pucks inbetween the pads and pinch welds. Lift until I get the necessary clearance to get jackstand+puck under that side's factory jack points. Repeat on other side.
For tire rotations I don't need the car as high compared to oil changes. For the latter, I'll lift one side some amount, then lift the other side higher. Return to the first side to bring up to the same height. That is, do it incrementally. So far pinch welds where the beam has been used are intact and not bent.
^^What he said. If your car is lowered at all, def NOT gonna work easily, as it compromises the minimum height to access the pinch welds. My car is AWD, so I think I have another half inch more than the RWD Stingers and I don't think I can get it underneath without a helper jack, but I've yet to actually try. The CrossBeam replaces the lift pad, so you gain maybe a half inch, but you may lose as many as 3.5-4", more if your using pucks- but all just a guesstimate...
Tempted to start doing my own oil changes, using a jack and stands has always been my preferred method for getting the car off the ground (versus ramps). Thanks for starting the topic.
Problem is there are no stand points. You can lift the car, with a jack or a lift, but AFAIK no one has pointed out actual jack stand points, lifting the car with a jack, then lifting the wheel with another jack, to put a stand in the first jack location, is sketch due to how crazy the angles get, plus you better have some pinch weld adapters for the stands too.
Problem is there are no stand points. You can lift the car, with a jack or a lift, but AFAIK no one has pointed out actual jack stand points, lifting the car with a jack, then lifting the wheel with another jack, to put a stand in the first jack location, is sketch due to how crazy the angles get, plus you better have some pinch weld adapters for the stands too.
Use the jack point as a jack stand location easy. Use a narrow pinch weld adapter on your jack, and lift the car on the pinch weld. The plastic side rocker panel will move aside in some places allowing you to shove the adapter in there and lift the car. I have been doing that for a long time with no issues.
www.harborfreight.com
