(Another) Ultimate Performance FMIC review

[Stiletto]

TL;DR – solid core, subpar product overall, probably better options for the money.

I swapped out the factory heat exchanger for the Ultimate Performance unit. I opted for this brand since they are one of the few that offer a larger cold-side pipe and use a Garrett core. No slight against the other brands, but I prefer an American part if I can get one. Aside from IMR (which uses a Treadstone core) and RPM-Motorsports, you can bet on the cores being made in China. Okay, the Maintec FMIC is made in Korea, so it stands apart too. Agency Power and Mishimoto have almost identical designs when it comes to the shape and mounting of their units. Wagner, RPM, BMS and CX Racing have unique designs and mounting points.

Pros: beefy core, simple mounting points, good welds on the end-tanks

Cons: no install instructions, cold charge pipe welds are terrible (I took the inner mountains down to hills with my Dremel), off center alignment with the lower grill opening, piping and end tanks are fairly “raw” (a decent polish would go a long way to improving the look on a $1k unit…I added the wrinkle red powder-coating) and you have to cut the hot side silicone tube to fit. Also, a mismatching silicone coupler (their supplier couldn’t find black tubes??) and improper sized clamps were also issues, but I was able to source a black silicone elbow and UP did overnight the correct sized clamps.

I considered doing an install guide, but the Agency Power blog does a pretty good job, so I’ll skip the step-by-step. Install is pretty simple, but getting the cold-side pipe in requires a bit if maneuvering and removal of the passenger intake. I chose to orient the MAP sensor differently that stock for a slightly cleaner look.

Overall, for the money, I’m a little let down with the quality. I’ve owned Perrin, ETS, GrimmSpeed ICs and they’ve all been top notch. This just didn’t meet my expectations for this price point.


I’ll have dyno comparison done later this week, so hopefully that will provide more value than just my opinion!

 

[ChaneRZ]

That looks great! Looking forward on the dyno part. Best bang for the buck is BMS but they are out of stock for a while now. I decided to go with UP also. Can’t complain!

 

[Stiletto]

Got around to putting the hoopty on the rollers. It was pretty warm out, as you can see by the data log. Both I and the shop owner think something was off from the previous dyno run, considering a intercooler should NOT warrant a 60-70 ft lb jump in torque. Sadly, I don't have a definitive answer as to what the power difference between Injen and Stillen intake, nor a clear idea of what the UP FMIC gains over OEM. Oh, well...I'll just have to enjoy the ride nonetheless!

 

[ChaneRZ]

Great #s. Put your mod lists with it.

 

[Stiletto]

Great #s. Put your mod lists with it.

I presume you mean power mods... because everything I've done to this car is WAY too long to list on my posts, lol.

BMS JB4 w/ fuel wires & EWG connectors
Denso 5347 spark plugs
Injen intake
VelossaTech Big Mouth ram ducts
Jonny Tig merge pipe
Ultimate Performance FMIC
GFB Mach 2 BPVs
ARK secondary pipes (Swaintech coated)
Stillen cat back exhaust

 

[ChaneRZ]

Great! Performance mods. What JB4 map?

 

[JERisBRISK]

I presume you mean power mods... because everything I've done to this car is WAY too long to list on my posts, lol.

BMS JB4 w/ fuel wires & EWG connectors
Denso 5347 spark plugs
Injen intake
VelossaTech Big Mouth ram ducts
Jonny Tig merge pipe
Ultimate Performance FMIC
GFB Mach 2 BPVs
ARK secondary pipes (Swaintech coated)
Stillen cat back exhaust

Did you install the Injen at the same time as the VolossaTech Big Mouth ram ducts, or one at a time?

I'm sold on adding Injen intakes (hard not to be) to my '18 GT2, but I'm wondering how much of a bump the Big Mouth offers in addition. We all know that colder air is better (generally speaking) but we also know that the turbo is going to heat up the air anyway. I remember having a cold air box around my '91 Talon's K&N filter and that was a big upgrade, but I did the two at the same time so I was never quite sure if the added power and snap was from just replacing the stock air filter or if it was from insulating it from the hot engine bay air, or both.

 

[Stiletto]

Did you install the Injen at the same time as the VolossaTech Big Mouth ram ducts, or one at a time?

I'm sold on adding Injen intakes (hard not to be) to my '18 GT2, but I'm wondering how much of a bump the Big Mouth offers in addition. We all know that colder air is better (generally speaking) but we also know that the turbo is going to heat up the air anyway. I remember having a cold air box around my '91 Talon's K&N filter and that was a big upgrade, but I did the two at the same time so I was never quite sure if the added power and snap was from just replacing the stock air filter or if it was from insulating it from the hot engine bay air, or both.

I had the VT ducts long before. They don't do anything for power on the dyno. The design is around ingesting more air when in motion, specifically highway speeds.

 

[JERisBRISK]

View attachment 59077

View attachment 59078

While the welds are alright, I would have hoped they would at least offer to polish the interior (likely for an upcharge). Those rough edges and "ribs", though small, are apt to cause turbulence and in turn, cavitation. Might not turn into real-world impact at the dyno, or perhaps very minor loss in absolute power output, but if it were my install, I would rest easier with a polished pipe given the option. The bigger deal with cavitation and turbulence, as I understand it, is wear and tear on the parts fore and aft. Smoother airflow across the RPM range won't lash either side nearly as hard as "choppy seas" will.

View attachment 59081

View attachment 59082

That is very sharp stencil work! Did you do that yourself? A laser cutter or cricut machine and some Krylon, perhaps? Beautiful ride.

 

[JERisBRISK]

I had the VT ducts long before. They don't do anything for power on the dyno. The design is around ingesting more air when in motion, specifically highway speeds.

I never dyno'd my Talon, but based on the mods I did (vs. others who had dyno'd similar configurations) and the feel of it, I was putting out over 300 (perhaps upwards of 330) WHP w/ 92 Octane at 16-18 psi of boost. The cold air box + K&N really helped the turbo feel like it had 'legs' (the stock "snorkel" was ridiculously small), which is why the Injen is first on my list.

And when I finish it, I'm going to stand there like Gandalf did with Theoden and say...

 

[Stiletto]

While the welds are alright, I would have hoped they would at least offer to polish the interior (likely for an upcharge). Those rough edges and "ribs", though small, are apt to cause turbulence and in turn, cavitation. Might not turn into real-world impact at the dyno, or perhaps very minor loss in absolute power output, but if it were my install, I would rest easier with a polished pipe given the option. The bigger deal with cavitation and turbulence, as I understand it, is wear and tear on the parts fore and aft. Smoother airflow across the RPM range won't lash either side nearly as hard as "choppy seas" will.



That is very sharp stencil work! Did you do that yourself? A laser cutter or cricut machine and some Krylon, perhaps? Beautiful ride.

Agreed, the imperfections on the inside won't cause massive power loss.

All credit goes to my wife and her Cricut for the stencil.

 

[JERisBRISK]

All credit goes to my wife and her Cricut for the stencil.

So nice of her! Do you have a vectorized Stinger logo handy? I might find that useful someday...

 

[Stiletto]

So nice of her! Do you have a vectorized Stinger logo handy? I might find that useful someday...

Yes, we have an svg file. I'll post it in here.

 

[JERisBRISK]

Yes, we have an svg file. I'll post it in here.

I'm looking forward to it!

 

[Stiletto]

@JERisBRISK Here's the file she used.

 

[BrocStar]

Did you install the Injen at the same time as the VolossaTech Big Mouth ram ducts, or one at a time?

I'm sold on adding Injen intakes (hard not to be) to my '18 GT2, but I'm wondering how much of a bump the Big Mouth offers in addition. We all know that colder air is better (generally speaking) but we also know that the turbo is going to heat up the air anyway. I remember having a cold air box around my '91 Talon's K&N filter and that was a big upgrade, but I did the two at the same time so I was never quite sure if the added power and snap was from just replacing the stock air filter or if it was from insulating it from the hot engine bay air, or both.

I am adding the Injen CAI and Big Mouth but after reading about rain and hydrolock I am concerned the snorkels might not be worth the risk. I live in San Diego., which doesn't get a lot of rain but when it does rain it floods in my area. I am just looking out for the car as it only has 200 miles on it.

 

[Stiletto]

I am adding the Injen CAI and Big Mouth but after reading about rain and hydrolock I am concerned the snorkels might not be worth the risk. I live in San Diego., which doesn't get a lot of rain but when it does rain it floods in my area. I am just looking out for the car as it only has 200 miles on it.

You would have to drive into the Pacific Ocean to hydrolock your engine. The snorkels will never channel enough water from rain to cause ingestion through the intakes.

 

[BrocStar]

You would have to drive into the Pacific Ocean to hydrolock your engine. The snorkels will never channel enough water from rain to cause ingestion through the intakes.

Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate the help and the easing of my anxiety

 

[JERisBRISK]

If memory serves, folks have advocated phased/timed injections of water vapor into the combustion chamber to increase the volume of oxygen (and hydrogen, for that matter) available per unit volume during combustion (as the temperature of the explosion should instantly vaporize the water droplets) while simultaneously lowering temps (because H2O => H2 O2 is an endothermic reaction).

As it happens, some rigorous study has gone into this (albeit for sound-reduction aims), and Bosch has created a system they call WaterBoost which has found its way into some cars, claiming it "reduces CO2 emissions by 4 percent, boosts engine performance by 5 percent, and improves fuel economy by 13 percent".

And while their system is a controlled, measured intake of water at a very specific place in the reaction... I wouldn't be afraid of errant rain drops or even a mist getting whorled up into the intake manifold and dumped into the motor along with the rest. Might do more help than harm, as long as you're not sucking down the Pacific Ocean, as @Stiletto put it.

 

[BrocStar]

You would have to drive into the Pacific Ocean to hydrolock your engine. The snorkels will never channel enough water from rain to cause ingestion through the intakes.

Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate the help and the easing of my anxiety

If memory serves, folks have advocated phased/timed injections of water vapor into the combustion chamber to increase the volume of oxygen (and hydrogen, for that matter) available per unit volume during combustion (as the temperature of the explosion should instantly vaporize the water droplets) while simultaneously lowering temps (because H2O => H2 O2 is an endothermic reaction).

As it happens, some rigorous study has gone into this (albeit for sound-reduction aims), and Bosch has created a system they call WaterBoost which has found its way into some cars, claiming it "reduces CO2 emissions by 4 percent, boosts engine performance by 5 percent, and improves fuel economy by 13 percent".

And while their system is a controlled, measured intake of water at a very specific place in the reaction... I wouldn't be afraid of errant rain drops or even a mist getting whorled up into the intake manifold and dumped into the motor along with the rest. Might do more help than harm, as long as you're not sucking down the Pacific Ocean, as @Stiletto put it.

that is very well put. Thanks a ton for replying.