Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

so far the best 0-60 with lozic tunes and basic mods Ive seen was 3.5 iirc on the leaderboard draggy.
What are basic mods to you though? To me, unless you are doing a turbo swap, everything else I've seen on this platform counts as basic.
 
Anyone got a LOZiC 1.5 ecu for sale?
 
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By chance has anyone tried launching in 2nd gear? If you have was it any good? Or just anyones thoughts I would like to hear.
 
So found a backroad, road was okayish, not fully tight but do-able. Winter tires on, no LC, just launched it around 2k rpm. Man.. before I blinked twice (and I blink fast) I was at 145km/h(90mph) speed. Surprisingly gripped well. Smile on my face was grand. Wife enjoyed it much as I did, she was like wtf holy shit.

I really need to get a dragy. If I had to mentally guess, I would assume I did anywhere from 3.5-3.8 secs 0-60. Also not on my performance tires and the road could've been better.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So found a backroad, road was okayish, not fully tight but do-able. Winter tires on, no LC, just launched it around 2k rpm. Man.. before I blinked twice (and I blink fast) I was at 145km/h(90mph) speed. Surprisingly gripped well. Smile on my face was grand. Wife enjoyed it much as I did, she was like wtf holy shit.

I really need to get a dragy. If I had to mentally guess, I would assume I did anywhere from 3.5-3.8 secs 0-60. Also not on my performance tires and the road could've been better.
Nice! I just tried launching a few times since getting the TCU tune. I would either spin or have a little bog down. I couldn’t find a happy medium. Does anyone have tips to be consistent. It seems difficult to hold any specific RPM/Boost- almost like luck. I’m sure I’ll get it with practice but figured someone might have it perfected. But damn! It crazy now
 
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So found a backroad, road was okayish, not fully tight but do-able. Winter tires on, no LC, just launched it around 2k rpm. Man.. before I blinked twice (and I blink fast) I was at 145km/h(90mph) speed. Surprisingly gripped well. Smile on my face was grand. Wife enjoyed it much as I did, she was like wtf holy shit.

I really need to get a dragy. If I had to mentally guess, I would assume I did anywhere from 3.5-3.8 secs 0-60. Also not on my performance tires and the road could've been better.
Buy the dragy, you'll be happy you did. Speed can be deceptive.
 
Nice! I just tried launching a few times since getting the TCU tune. I would either spin or have a little bog down. I couldn’t find a happy medium. Does anyone have tips to be consistent. It seems difficult to hold any specific RPM/Boost- almost like luck. I’m sure I’ll get it with practice but figured someone might have it perfected. But damn! It crazy now
I suggest buying a dragy if you haven't yet. That way you will have actual data that you can look at after each run and see where you. It's worth it. For "perfecting" technique, try to isolate and test different things in your launch. You want to master your 60' time. Start with throttle input when trying to build boost. You don't have to launch until you're sure you want to. Don't like your readiness? Start over. There's no hard and fast rules. Besides your car with your specific mods is going to feel different from the next guys, even if it's the same platform. Be conscious of weather and road surfaces because they play a part in how your vehicle is going to respond or should be launched. I don't launch my car at the track the same way I do on the street, I would break an axle.

Also keep in mind that each time you change something on your car, the vehicle is now different. ECUs, TCUs, tires, wheels, weight reduction, suspension, whatever it is. You've changed it. Even if the change is small, you should test the car to see what feels different. Better to respect the fact that you've messed with it and are checking to be sure it's still the same, then to assume it is and find out it's not the same because you broke something launching to hard, etc.

Best tip for consistency is to practice consistently.
 
I suggest buying a dragy if you haven't yet. That way you will have actual data that you can look at after each run and see where you. It's worth it. For "perfecting" technique, try to isolate and test different things in your launch. You want to master your 60' time. Start with throttle input when trying to build boost. You don't have to launch until you're sure you want to. Don't like your readiness? Start over. There's no hard and fast rules. Besides your car with your specific mods is going to feel different from the next guys, even if it's the same platform. Be conscious of weather and road surfaces because they play a part in how your vehicle is going to respond or should be launched. I don't launch my car at the track the same way I do on the street, I would break an axle.

Also keep in mind that each time you change something on your car, the vehicle is now different. ECUs, TCUs, tires, wheels, weight reduction, suspension, whatever it is. You've changed it. Even if the change is small, you should test the car to see what feels different. Better to respect the fact that you've messed with it and are checking to be sure it's still the same, then to assume it is and find out it's not the same because you broke something launching to hard, etc.

Best tip for consistency is to practice consistently.
Appreciate the detail! I’ll keep practicing and keep you all posted. I do have a dragy- I still was able to achieve my best 60ft time I have ever got, It was 1.82..(log shows about 8psi on launch) that was the time with a little/medium bit of spin. Previous best was 1.93. I usually have time to go to Mexico once a week as long as the weather is good. So I’ll try again soon. I assume this is a dumb question but can you explain your different launch strategies from street vs track? The car feels even more fun now!
 
Appreciate the detail! I’ll keep practicing and keep you all posted. I do have a dragy- I still was able to achieve my best 60ft time I have ever got, It was 1.82..(log shows about 8psi on launch) that was the time with a little/medium bit of spin. Previous best was 1.93. I usually have time to go to Mexico once a week as long as the weather is good. So I’ll try again soon. I assume this is a dumb question but can you explain your different launch strategies from street vs track? The car feels even more fun now!
Drag strips are sticky surfaces by design. Attendants will spray and care for the track to achieve stickiness. This is great for shaving time off of your E/Ts because your car will spend less time spinning. It will just "hook and go". While the track is gripping your tires for dear life, you are mashing the accelerator, applying force essentially trying to rip the tires free of the track. That's a lot of pressure on suspension components in your vehicle, most of which were not designed for track use or upgraded power. Things break.

Street surfaces, highways, backroads, even prepped streets in "Mexico" aren't as sticky. You can apply more force "safely". These surfaces are dangerous for different reasons which is why I use quotations.

When I go to the track, I never go full send on my first pass. Not all tracks are at the same level of prep. The two strips I bring my car to are prepped differently and I'm mindful of that so that I break less stuff. There's literally videos of people trying to walk on a drag surface and getting stuck to it. Now imagine your car squatting as you build boost and then trying to rip away from that.


It's not just the road, but weather matters also. I live in new england and our winters are cold. I launch with less boost then for a different safety reason. Instead of surface being too grabby, it's not grabby enough. If I were too launch with the same boost as I do in the summer, my tires would continually spin which is very dangerous to have in freezing temperatures. Also your tires will behave different just because of the temperature change. Things expand and contract with the temperature changes.

Your question isn't dumb, it's smart and important if you want to lose less money fixing stuff. This is a perfect example of why there's no "set" launch and why I keep referencing that you have to learn your car and continue to test and play around with it. Good luck!
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Drag strips are sticky surfaces by design. Attendants will spray and care for the track to achieve stickiness. This is great for shaving time off of your E/Ts because your car will spend less time spinning. It will just "hook and go". While the track is gripping your tires for dear life, you are mashing the accelerated, applying force essentially trying to rip the tires free of the track. That's a lot of pressure on suspension components in your vehicle, most of which were not designed for track use or upgraded power. Things break.

Street surfaces, highways, backroads, even prepped streets in "Mexico" aren't as sticky. You can apply more force "safely". These surfaces are dangerous for different reasons which is why I use quotations.

When I go to the track, I never go full send on my first pass. Not all tracks are at the same level of prep. The two strips I bring my car to are prepped differently and I'm mindful of that so that I break less stuff. There's literally videos of people trying to walk on a drag surface and getting stuck to it. Now imagine your car squatting as you build boost and then trying to rip away from that.


It's not just the road, but weather matters also. I live in new england and our winters are cold. I launch with less boost them for a different safety reason. Instead of surface being too grabby, it's not grabby enough. If I were too launch with the same boost as I do in the summer, my tires would continually spin which is very dangerous to have in freezing temperatures. Also your tires will behave different just because of the temperature change. Things expand and contract with the temperature changes.

Your question isn't dumb, it's smart and important if you want to lose less money fixing stuff. This is a perfect example of why there's no "set" launch and why I keep referencing that you have to learn your car and continue to test and play around with it. Good luck!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do that. Hopefully it is as beneficial to others as it is me. Very much appreciated. I’ll update as I practice.
 
Drag strips are sticky surfaces by design. Attendants will spray and care for the track to achieve stickiness. This is great for shaving time off of your E/Ts because your car will spend less time spinning. It will just "hook and go". While the track is gripping your tires for dear life, you are mashing the accelerated, applying force essentially trying to rip the tires free of the track. That's a lot of pressure on suspension components in your vehicle, most of which were not designed for track use or upgraded power. Things break.

Street surfaces, highways, backroads, even prepped streets in "Mexico" aren't as sticky. You can apply more force "safely". These surfaces are dangerous for different reasons which is why I use quotations.

When I go to the track, I never go full send on my first pass. Not all tracks are at the same level of prep. The two strips I bring my car to are prepped differently and I'm mindful of that so that I break less stuff. There's literally videos of people trying to walk on a drag surface and getting stuck to it. Now imagine your car squatting as you build boost and then trying to rip away from that.


It's not just the road, but weather matters also. I live in new england and our winters are cold. I launch with less boost them for a different safety reason. Instead of surface being too grabby, it's not grabby enough. If I were too launch with the same boost as I do in the summer, my tires would continually spin which is very dangerous to have in freezing temperatures. Also your tires will behave different just because of the temperature change. Things expand and contract with the temperature changes.

Your question isn't dumb, it's smart and important if you want to lose less money fixing stuff. This is a perfect example of why there's no "set" launch and why I keep referencing that you have to learn your car and continue to test and play around with it. Good luck!
Really good advice
 
I chose to have the boost ready function ON. Because I wanted to be able to build boost on launch. I wanted fast and aggressive boosting. Although it is only noticed in Sport mode. In Comfort and Eco modes the boost doesn't feel fast or aggressive. But Sport is definitely beast mode. As it should be in my opinion. The boost ready function seems to reduce turbo lag because positive pressure is always available in the charge pipe. Also increased throttle response is felt. Overall I'm happy with it. One negative to some people might be that under light acceleration going up a grade I will hear the turbos and the blow off valves cycling. Similar to what you hear from diesel/semi truck. After a few weeks I accepted these sounds as part of the tune. A small price to pay for the benefits IMO. Hope that helps in your decision process.
I'm getting a retune and considering turning boost ready on. Lozic says feature has been improved but I'm always cautious when something has to get addressed.

It's been another month, how do you feel about having it on, or can you post a video showing the feature at work?
 
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Just got my ECU in. Wow that shipping is quick he sent it out on Friday.

Look forward to this weekend to get it installed and pair it with the TCU.
 
Interesting how my ecu didnt really have a break in period like others noted. Straight after install was smooth as butter. Also to those installing ecu, dont panic IF the car doesn't start the first or second time lol It will as its "downloading" itself into the car.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Interesting how my ecu didnt really have a break in period like others noted. Straight after install was smooth as butter. Also to those installing ecu, dont panic if the car doesn't start the first or second time lol It will as its "downloading" itself into the car.
It probably did have a break in period, you just didn't log it, and even during the break in period, your ECU will still run circles around a piggyback.
 
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I'm getting a retune and considering turning boost ready on. Lozic says feature has been improved but I'm always cautious when something has to get addressed.

It's been another month, how do you feel about having it on, or can you post a video showing the future at work?
I've had my ECU for about 6 months. I'm happy with the settings I chose although it would be interesting to test drive both ways back to back. For me that would be the best way to compare the differences between having the boost ready on or off. I guess I could try to post a video but I'm not sure what content you're wanting to see about the boost ready function. Lozic told me the boost ready function is felt. One of the effects is similar to having a pedal box installed but not quite as dramatic. Basically increased throttle response. I figured if the guy who mapped my ECU suggested that I leave it on I'll follow his advice.
 
I've had my ECU for about 6 months. I'm happy with the settings I chose although it would be interesting to test drive both ways back to back. For me that would be the best way to compare the differences between having the boost ready on or off. I guess I could try to post a video but I'm not sure what content you're wanting to see about the boost ready function. Lozic told me the boost ready function is felt. One of the effects is similar to having a pedal box installed but not quite as dramatic. Basically increased throttle response. I figured if the guy who mapped my ECU suggested that I leave it on I'll follow his advice.
Might I suggest a compromise? get boost ready turned on above 2200rpm or so, that way you can cruise at 80mph on the highway and not be in 3-4lbs of boost at all times, and the number is still so low that you can still effectively use it when you want the sudden boost. Thats what I asked Lozic to do with my retune, as I was really not a fan of how boost ready behaved, because I was in boost basically from 1k onwards, which not only cut a few MPG off my average, but also made some very annoying Buffeting (best way I can describe it) noises that would happen from 30%-80% pedal input, because it was basically telling you that it wanted to go faster.

Now, I haven't been able to test the new settings yet because my car is still in the shop, however Logically (in my mind at least) it makes sense as a good middle ground, as realistically, if you plan to be doing more than 80, you are probably gonna be taking trips to Mexico anyway.
 
I've had my ECU for about 6 months. I'm happy with the settings I chose although it would be interesting to test drive both ways back to back. For me that would be the best way to compare the differences between having the boost ready on or off. I guess I could try to post a video but I'm not sure what content you're wanting to see about the boost ready function. Lozic told me the boost ready function is felt. One of the effects is similar to having a pedal box installed but not quite as dramatic. Basically increased throttle response. I figured if the guy who mapped my ECU suggested that I leave it on I'll follow his advice.
I had a conversation with him yesterday and I'll be giving the feature a try. My car is currently down due to my cities wonderful potholes. When I get the ECU and car back on the road, I'll report back. Silver lining is that she's getting new shoes lol.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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