GT2 Subwoofer Upgrade. 8" ported sub install with pictures and basic guide.

I would but wiring diagram shows that #24. I don't see that on the diagram. Which wire is #24
 
One of these worked for me...

IMG_20210718_115246.webp
 
______________________________
The wires coming out of the amp are high level inputs to my Helix V12 (which has up to 12 inputs).
The rest are my 12 channels of outputs from the Helix, plus RCAs and remote out for the sub amp. It's a hell of a mess back there.

@BrianSTINGER2022 You probably don't need a remote wire.
Are you using high level inputs? The JBL can turn on by itself if it senses power on the high level inputs.
If you're using a LOC for line level inputs, most of them have auto sensing also, and usually have a remote out (Wavtech and Audiocontrol do for sure).


1646696932394.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The wires coming out of the amp are high level inputs to my Helix V12 (which has up to 12 inputs).
The rest are my 12 channels of outputs from the Helix, plus RCAs and remote out for the sub amp. It's a hell of a mess back there.

@BrianSTINGER2022 You probably don't need a remote wire.
Are you using high level inputs? The JBL can turn on by itself if it senses power on the high level inputs.
If you're using a LOC for line level inputs, most of them have auto sensing also, and usually have a remote out (Wavtech and Audiocontrol do for sure).


View attachment 68600
I was trying to use high level but when all was hooked up with speaker wires connected to JBL SUB AND Tapped into stock amp speaker sub wires with the blue remote wire tapped in the ACC WIRE on stock amp the JBL HUB would not turn off when I turned the car off. I have since picked up a LOC and it works but something sounding off as the sub is not hitting as hard. What would cause ?
 
How long were you waiting? My amp takes several minutes (10) for the "on" light to turn off. Not sure if this is residual capacitance or if the amp just in standby. Seems pretty common since you wouldn't want your amp power cycling every time there's a break in the music.

What LOC are you using? Are you summing any channels or just using the OEM sub wires? It's probably sending weak voltage over the RCA. Is there a gain knob to turn?

I'd hook it back up to the speaker level inputs (without the blue wire) and see if it does eventually turn off.
 
How long were you waiting? My amp takes several minutes (10) for the "on" light to turn off. Not sure if this is residual capacitance or if the amp just in standby. Seems pretty common since you wouldn't want your amp power cycling every time there's a break in the music.

What LOC are you using? Are you summing any channels or just using the OEM sub wires? It's probably sending weak voltage over the RCA. Is there a gain knob to turn?

I'd hook it back up to the speaker level inputs (without the blue wire) and see if it does eventually turn off.
 
I'm using a LC1i. Sub wires tied into it.
Sorry pics are bad. When I wasn't using LOC amp would not turn off is there a time it takes to shut down? I don't think I waited 10 mins but I waited 5. It should shut off right away as it does with the the LOC
 

Attachments

  • 53202.webp
    53202.webp
    167.9 KB · Views: 31
  • output.webp
    output.webp
    92.7 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I don't know the inner working of the amp, but logic would say that if the amp is sensing voltage differential across the speaker inputs (high level inputs), there is likely an amount of time it stays on after the input goes quiet, otherwise your amp would be power cycling in between every song.

Did you ever just test the ACC wire for voltage with the car ON and OFF?
 
@BrianSTINGER2022 what trigger mode do you have the LC1 set to? If it were me I'd set it to "AUDIO" which should turn on the processor when it senses signal. You would have the Constant +12 and GND wires connected to the LC1. You could then use the "Remote Out" to your sub/amp and that should get turned on/off with the LC1. If that's how you have it I'm stumped.
 
@BrianSTINGER2022 what trigger mode do you have the LC1 set to? If it were me I'd set it to "AUDIO" which should turn on the processor when it senses signal. You would have the Constant +12 and GND wires connected to the LC1. You could then use the "Remote Out" to your sub/amp and that should get turned on/off with the LC1. If that's how you have it I'm stumped.
I have it set to Remote, I have 12v and ground hooked up to LC1. LC1 is working as it should and shuts off my JBL PRO HUB SPEAKER HAS built in amp. My main thing is the sub doesn't sound like it did when I was just hooked directly to the speak wires directly to high line out wires on my sub. I tried adjust the gains on LC1 AND my JBL HUB Remote but that didn't make it sound any better. I'll try the. AUDIO SETTING to see what that sounds like I bought the LC1 because when I was hooked up with out it the Remote wore blue that was wired into the stock amp Remote wIRE ACC. IT was not turning my amp off when car went off. Aarvix. Above said to wait 10 mins that seeks quite long for the red light on my JBL HUB to turn off.
 
I have it set to Remote, I have 12v and ground hooked up to LC1. LC1 is working as it should and shuts off my JBL PRO HUB SPEAKER HAS built in amp. My main thing is the sub doesn't sound like it did when I was just hooked directly to the speak wires directly to high line out wires on my sub. I tried adjust the gains on LC1 AND my JBL HUB Remote but that didn't make it sound any better. I'll try the. AUDIO SETTING to see what that sounds like I bought the LC1 because when I was hooked up with out it the Remote wore blue that was wired into the stock amp Remote wIRE ACC. IT was not turning my amp off when car went off. Aarvix. Above said to wait 10 mins that seeks quite long for the red light on my JBL HUB to turn off.
The "Audio" setting won't have an impact on how it sounds just how the unit is triggered on/off. The method I'm suggesting SHOULD (again should) have it turn on when it senses signal and off when it doesn't. Regarding the sound I can't speak to that directly-perhaps make sure the low pass filter is set somewhere near 80 hz, perhaps flip the phase on one of the inputs, and I'd probably keep the gain as low as needed with the gain "maximized" on the LC1 (there should be a light on it indicating).
 
Last edited:
The "Audio" setting won't have an impact on how it sounds just how the unit is triggered on/off. The method I'm suggesting SHOULD (again should) have it turn on when it senses signal and off when it doesn't. Regarding the sound I can't speak to that directly-perhaps make sure the low pass filter is set somewhere near 80 hz, perhaps flip the phase on one of the inputs, and I'd probably keep the gain as low as needed with the gain "maximized" on the LC1 (there should be a light on it indicating).
Follow up. I ended up re hooking it back up with the High Line out wires direct to factory amp wires I got rid of the LC1 LOC I found out for it to turn off all the doors and trunk on the car have to be closed that was all it took and it shut the amp on the sub off. Who would have known. All Good now sounds Great!!!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I found this car easy with everything in the trunk this is the schematic for mine Screenshot_20211011-154306.webp
 
______________________________
Great write-up, helped me tremendously with my install today. Using the same Rockford Fosgate R500x1D amplifier and an AudioControl LC2i LOC. Got everything wired almost identically to your setup- , however I'm having a similar issue to Brian (a user further up in the thread), where my amp and LOC are on and running despite the car being off and even locked. Going to wait 10-15 minutes like others have suggested prior, but wanted to know if anyone else had this issue and what they did to fix it? My LOC is wired directly into the amplifier for ground and power. Tapped into Red connector Pins 1, 2, 16, 17 for signal, and remote wire going from LOC to my amp. - without any issues! Running a CT Sounds 6.5" Meso subwoofer in a prefab box until I have the time to make a custom box. Will be similar in size to OP's setup.

Update: Amplifier and LOC did shut off within 10 minutes or so, which is safe and good. Just depends on your setup, I guess.
 
Last edited:
Follow up. I ended up re hooking it back up with the High Line out wires direct to factory amp wires I got rid of the LC1 LOC I found out for it to turn off all the doors and trunk on the car have to be closed that was all it took and it shut the amp on the sub off. Who would have known. All Good now sounds Great!!!
So I tried to hook up my JBL basspro hub. Can you tell me exactly what pin on the red connecter you tapped each of the colored wires coming fron the basspro. Also if you tapped the blue connecter pins. I used pin 1 and 16 on the red conecter with white wire to pin 16 and striped white wire to pin 1 is that correct.
 
So I tried to hook up my JBL basspro hub. Can you tell me exactly what pin on the red connecter you tapped each of the colored wires coming fron the basspro. Also if you tapped the blue connecter pins. I used pin 1 and 16 on the red conecter with white wire to pin 16 and striped white wire to pin 1 is that correct.
There should be a total of 4 speakers wires tapping to sub wires from what I remember.
2 POSITIVE AND 2 NEGATIVE
U are correct. 1 and 16 then 2 and 17. Stripped wire is the POSITIVE. . THIS IS FOR RED CONNECTOR. ON THE BLUE CONNECTOR CONNECT THE REMOTE BLUE WIRE FROM THE JBL HUB HARNESS TO THE ACC blue wire/ brown strip. LOCATION #8

Also once u have it all hooked up make sure u close all the doors and trunk and then wait to see of the GREEN POWER LIGHT go out on the JBL HUB. Hope this helps. Out
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220904-151410_Samsung Internet.webp
    Screenshot_20220904-151410_Samsung Internet.webp
    38.6 KB · Views: 30
  • Screenshot_20220904-151410_Samsung Internet.webp
    Screenshot_20220904-151410_Samsung Internet.webp
    38.6 KB · Views: 29
  • Screenshot_20220904-152220_Samsung Internet.webp
    Screenshot_20220904-152220_Samsung Internet.webp
    65.5 KB · Views: 32
I have a JBL BASS PRO HUB. I have Blue Remote wire tapped into the #8 ACC WIRE on the Blue Connector side of the Stock amp coming from my JBL and it is NOT turning off my JBL at all when the car is off Anyone know why it is not turning it off?
I am installing Basspro into my stinger. I spliced into the red and blue connector however i get no sound. Can you tell me what connecter blue and red you have the wires spliced into. Red connecter i have white and white striped wires spliced exsctlt what pin they get connected to. What connecter and pin for the grey wires. Thanks in advance.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top