Best way to install front lowering springs
- Thread starter socalvn
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I'm Tony Danza
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I have done it a few times and can help. Is yours AWD or RWD?
socalvn
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______________________________
I'm Tony Danza
Member
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- Aug 11, 2020
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- 18
Perfect. The RWD is pretty easy compared to the AWD.
Start here:
stingerforum.org
Also see my post #49 for critical tips and how to modify the normal rental compressors. Without modifying them like that, you will have one hell of a time, as there is not enough free space for the compressors to fit/work.
Without further ado...other helpful tips!!
- You do NOT have to remove the hub/brakes/knuckle, even though the factory service manual states to do so
- Speaking of, see here for factory torque specs and pics... http://www.kstinger.com/front_strut_assembly-552.html
- Ignore steps 5-7 in the factory manual
- Place 3 layer of painters tape around the fender edges to avoid scratches
- Before you do anything, crack loose the top center nut on the strut while it is still on the car, but do NOT remove yet. Try your best not to use an impact for this nut during loosening/tightening. Buy a pass-thru ratchet set, so you can put allen keys through it to properly do this. 19mm socket and 8mm allen for this top center nut. You will need a breaker bar (most jack handles can fit over the ratchets)
- Example of a pass-thru set, but buy a brand you trust. Get one that at least goes to 19mm, if not more: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pas...pass+through+socket+set&qid=1646790751&sr=8-6
- Once that top nut is loose, get under there and remove the sway bar link from the strut (have a jack handy, so you can lift the suspension to easily remove/install the link). The pass-thru 17mm socket is key here as well, along with a 6mm allen
- Remove the tie rod end. I had both the drivers side and passenger side jacked up, so I could turn the suspension as needed for the tie rod ends.
- Remove the brake line from the knuckle and electronic connectors from the strut if you have them
- Remove the lower strut nut/bolt. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the knuckle a tad. See #17 in the factory manual
- **Give the strut/spring a forceful wiggle back and forth while it is still in the wheel well. This will help loosen it from the knuckle**
-Place a jack under the suspension and raise it ever so slightly. This will help from everything dropping by accident.
- Now put on the modified spring compressors. You will only be able to compress one coil, but it will be enough. Watch out for hitting the car body with the compressor bolts as you compress. You will see once you get in there. There is JUST enough room to get each spring compressor on opposite side. I had to compress mine all the way.
- Now you can remove the top three outer nuts and top center nut for the strut top hat in the engine bay. Note the colored bolt. This bolt will go in that hole upon install. There is also a orientation arrow in case you forget.
- Lower the jack and push it out of the way. The suspension/strut can now drop. Grab the top hat from the top of the spring after lowering.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot, while holding the spring/strut with your hands. It may have to lower a lot so you can swing the strut/spring under the fender. Thank your lucky stars you don't have a AWD at this point.
- That should get everything out, unless my brain forgot something
- Upon installing the new springs, install the top hat while the strut is off the car. With the lowering springs, you now have the proper clearance from the fender, but barley. Note the indentions in the rubber top hat isolator for where the spring sits on the top and the the resting spot on the bottom portion of the strut. Place the new spring in both of these spots.
- Also note the factory paint marks and line everything the best you can. Orient the top hat so the colored bolt will install in it's original factory hole, as I noted above.
- Install the top nut, but do NOT use an impact. Use that pass-thru. Tighten it all the way down.
- Keep the spring compressors on when installing the struts, so you have clearance for the fender.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot.
- Place the strut in the knuckle first and be SUPER careful in not hitting the top hat bolts on the fender when swinging the strut into the wheel well.
- Once the strut is in, use the jack to raise it into place. Very carefully line up the top hat bolts and then jack it the rest of the way, slowly.
- Re-install the 3 outer top hat nuts, so the strut is now in place
- Look at the bottom of the strut/knuckle and note the factory paint marks. Turn the strut to align the paint marks and re-install the bottom strut bolt/nut.
- You can now remove the spring compressors and re-install everything else
-Torque everything using the factory manual specs for each nut/bolt. The top nut will most likely need re-tightening with the pass-thru before you can properly torque it.
My apologies if I forgot anything, as I am a bit tired, but you should have enough info from all of this and the above thread. Any questions, just ask! Cheers.
Start here:
DIY: ARK Performance GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide
Hey offroading guys! (a little height joke... :cool: ) Here is a DIY installation guide of our GT-F lowering springs. Please note the color of the springs in the photos is a test color. GT-F springs are orange. Tools needed: 10mm socket 13mm socket 17mm socket 19mm socket 17mm crescent...
stingerforum.org
Also see my post #49 for critical tips and how to modify the normal rental compressors. Without modifying them like that, you will have one hell of a time, as there is not enough free space for the compressors to fit/work.
Without further ado...other helpful tips!!
- You do NOT have to remove the hub/brakes/knuckle, even though the factory service manual states to do so
- Speaking of, see here for factory torque specs and pics... http://www.kstinger.com/front_strut_assembly-552.html
- Ignore steps 5-7 in the factory manual
- Place 3 layer of painters tape around the fender edges to avoid scratches
- Before you do anything, crack loose the top center nut on the strut while it is still on the car, but do NOT remove yet. Try your best not to use an impact for this nut during loosening/tightening. Buy a pass-thru ratchet set, so you can put allen keys through it to properly do this. 19mm socket and 8mm allen for this top center nut. You will need a breaker bar (most jack handles can fit over the ratchets)
- Example of a pass-thru set, but buy a brand you trust. Get one that at least goes to 19mm, if not more: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pas...pass+through+socket+set&qid=1646790751&sr=8-6
- Once that top nut is loose, get under there and remove the sway bar link from the strut (have a jack handy, so you can lift the suspension to easily remove/install the link). The pass-thru 17mm socket is key here as well, along with a 6mm allen
- Remove the tie rod end. I had both the drivers side and passenger side jacked up, so I could turn the suspension as needed for the tie rod ends.
- Remove the brake line from the knuckle and electronic connectors from the strut if you have them
- Remove the lower strut nut/bolt. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the knuckle a tad. See #17 in the factory manual
- **Give the strut/spring a forceful wiggle back and forth while it is still in the wheel well. This will help loosen it from the knuckle**
-Place a jack under the suspension and raise it ever so slightly. This will help from everything dropping by accident.
- Now put on the modified spring compressors. You will only be able to compress one coil, but it will be enough. Watch out for hitting the car body with the compressor bolts as you compress. You will see once you get in there. There is JUST enough room to get each spring compressor on opposite side. I had to compress mine all the way.
- Now you can remove the top three outer nuts and top center nut for the strut top hat in the engine bay. Note the colored bolt. This bolt will go in that hole upon install. There is also a orientation arrow in case you forget.
- Lower the jack and push it out of the way. The suspension/strut can now drop. Grab the top hat from the top of the spring after lowering.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot, while holding the spring/strut with your hands. It may have to lower a lot so you can swing the strut/spring under the fender. Thank your lucky stars you don't have a AWD at this point.
- That should get everything out, unless my brain forgot something
- Upon installing the new springs, install the top hat while the strut is off the car. With the lowering springs, you now have the proper clearance from the fender, but barley. Note the indentions in the rubber top hat isolator for where the spring sits on the top and the the resting spot on the bottom portion of the strut. Place the new spring in both of these spots.
- Also note the factory paint marks and line everything the best you can. Orient the top hat so the colored bolt will install in it's original factory hole, as I noted above.
- Install the top nut, but do NOT use an impact. Use that pass-thru. Tighten it all the way down.
- Keep the spring compressors on when installing the struts, so you have clearance for the fender.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot.
- Place the strut in the knuckle first and be SUPER careful in not hitting the top hat bolts on the fender when swinging the strut into the wheel well.
- Once the strut is in, use the jack to raise it into place. Very carefully line up the top hat bolts and then jack it the rest of the way, slowly.
- Re-install the 3 outer top hat nuts, so the strut is now in place
- Look at the bottom of the strut/knuckle and note the factory paint marks. Turn the strut to align the paint marks and re-install the bottom strut bolt/nut.
- You can now remove the spring compressors and re-install everything else
-Torque everything using the factory manual specs for each nut/bolt. The top nut will most likely need re-tightening with the pass-thru before you can properly torque it.
My apologies if I forgot anything, as I am a bit tired, but you should have enough info from all of this and the above thread. Any questions, just ask! Cheers.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Deviate
1000 Posts Club!
Damn where were you last weekend? The modified compressor would have been nice. Ha! I just ended up swinging everything out on the strut. Top hat and all. No paint issues due to the fact of over concern. Didnt even pull the strut out. Just laid it back and swapped springs there.Perfect. The RWD is pretty easy compared to the AWD.
Start here:
DIY: ARK Performance GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide
Hey offroading guys! (a little height joke... :cool: ) Here is a DIY installation guide of our GT-F lowering springs. Please note the color of the springs in the photos is a test color. GT-F springs are orange. Tools needed: 10mm socket 13mm socket 17mm socket 19mm socket 17mm crescent...
Also see my post #49 for critical tips and how to modify the normal rental compressors. Without modifying them like that, you will have one hell of a time, as there is not enough free space for the compressors to fit/work.
Without further ado...other helpful tips!!
- You do NOT have to remove the hub/brakes/knuckle, even though the factory service manual states to do so
- Speaking of, see here for factory torque specs and pics... http://www.kstinger.com/front_strut_assembly-552.html
- Ignore steps 5-7 in the factory manual
- Place 3 layer of painters tape around the fender edges to avoid scratches
- Before you do anything, crack loose the top center nut on the strut while it is still on the car, but do NOT remove yet. Try your best not to use an impact for this nut during loosening/tightening. Buy a pass-thru ratchet set, so you can put allen keys through it to properly do this. 19mm socket and 8mm allen for this top center nut. You will need a breaker bar (most jack handles can fit over the ratchets)
- Example of a pass-thru set, but buy a brand you trust. Get one that at least goes to 19mm, if not more: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pas...pass+through+socket+set&qid=1646790751&sr=8-6
- Once that top nut is loose, get under there and remove the sway bar link from the strut (have a jack handy, so you can lift the suspension to easily remove/install the link). The pass-thru 17mm socket is key here as well, along with a 6mm allen
- Remove the tie rod end. I had both the drivers side and passenger side jacked up, so I could turn the suspension as needed for the tie rod ends.
- Remove the brake line from the knuckle and electronic connectors from the strut if you have them
- Remove the lower strut nut/bolt. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the knuckle a tad. See #17 in the factory manual
- **Give the strut/spring a forceful wiggle back and forth while it is still in the wheel well. This will help loosen it from the knuckle**
-Place a jack under the suspension and raise it ever so slightly. This will help from everything dropping by accident.
- Now put on the modified spring compressors. You will only be able to compress one coil, but it will be enough. Watch out for hitting the car body with the compressor bolts as you compress. You will see once you get in there. There is JUST enough room to get each spring compressor on opposite side. I had to compress mine all the way.
- Now you can remove the top three outer nuts and top center nut for the strut top hat in the engine bay. Note the colored bolt. This bolt will go in that hole upon install. There is also a orientation arrow in case you forget.
- Lower the jack and push it out of the way. The suspension/strut can now drop. Grab the top hat from the top of the spring after lowering.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot, while holding the spring/strut with your hands. It may have to lower a lot so you can swing the strut/spring under the fender. Thank your lucky stars you don't have a AWD at this point.
- That should get everything out, unless my brain forgot something
- Upon installing the new springs, install the top hat while the strut is off the car. With the lowering springs, you now have the proper clearance from the fender, but barley. Note the indentions in the rubber top hat isolator for where the spring sits on the top and the the resting spot on the bottom portion of the strut. Place the new spring in both of these spots.
- Also note the factory paint marks and line everything the best you can. Orient the top hat so the colored bolt will install in it's original factory hole, as I noted above.
- Install the top nut, but do NOT use an impact. Use that pass-thru. Tighten it all the way down.
- Keep the spring compressors on when installing the struts, so you have clearance for the fender.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot.
- Place the strut in the knuckle first and be SUPER careful in not hitting the top hat bolts on the fender when swinging the strut into the wheel well.
- Once the strut is in, use the jack to raise it into place. Very carefully line up the top hat bolts and then jack it the rest of the way, slowly.
- Re-install the 3 outer top hat nuts, so the strut is now in place
- Look at the bottom of the strut/knuckle and note the factory paint marks. Turn the strut to align the paint marks and re-install the bottom strut bolt/nut.
- You can now remove the spring compressors and re-install everything else
-Torque everything using the factory manual specs for each nut/bolt. The top nut will most likely need re-tightening with the pass-thru before you can properly torque it.
My apologies if I forgot anything, as I am a bit tired, but you should have enough info from all of this and the above thread. Any questions, just ask! Cheers.
I never claimed to be smart
cncBilly
2500 Posts Club!
Excellent reply. You’re a good man Tony Danza.Perfect. The RWD is pretty easy compared to the AWD.
Start here:
DIY: ARK Performance GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide
Hey offroading guys! (a little height joke... :cool: ) Here is a DIY installation guide of our GT-F lowering springs. Please note the color of the springs in the photos is a test color. GT-F springs are orange. Tools needed: 10mm socket 13mm socket 17mm socket 19mm socket 17mm crescent...
Also see my post #49 for critical tips and how to modify the normal rental compressors. Without modifying them like that, you will have one hell of a time, as there is not enough free space for the compressors to fit/work.
Without further ado...other helpful tips!!
- You do NOT have to remove the hub/brakes/knuckle, even though the factory service manual states to do so
- Speaking of, see here for factory torque specs and pics... http://www.kstinger.com/front_strut_assembly-552.html
- Ignore steps 5-7 in the factory manual
- Place 3 layer of painters tape around the fender edges to avoid scratches
- Before you do anything, crack loose the top center nut on the strut while it is still on the car, but do NOT remove yet. Try your best not to use an impact for this nut during loosening/tightening. Buy a pass-thru ratchet set, so you can put allen keys through it to properly do this. 19mm socket and 8mm allen for this top center nut. You will need a breaker bar (most jack handles can fit over the ratchets)
- Example of a pass-thru set, but buy a brand you trust. Get one that at least goes to 19mm, if not more: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pas...pass+through+socket+set&qid=1646790751&sr=8-6
- Once that top nut is loose, get under there and remove the sway bar link from the strut (have a jack handy, so you can lift the suspension to easily remove/install the link). The pass-thru 17mm socket is key here as well, along with a 6mm allen
- Remove the tie rod end. I had both the drivers side and passenger side jacked up, so I could turn the suspension as needed for the tie rod ends.
- Remove the brake line from the knuckle and electronic connectors from the strut if you have them
- Remove the lower strut nut/bolt. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the knuckle a tad. See #17 in the factory manual
- **Give the strut/spring a forceful wiggle back and forth while it is still in the wheel well. This will help loosen it from the knuckle**
-Place a jack under the suspension and raise it ever so slightly. This will help from everything dropping by accident.
- Now put on the modified spring compressors. You will only be able to compress one coil, but it will be enough. Watch out for hitting the car body with the compressor bolts as you compress. You will see once you get in there. There is JUST enough room to get each spring compressor on opposite side. I had to compress mine all the way.
- Now you can remove the top three outer nuts and top center nut for the strut top hat in the engine bay. Note the colored bolt. This bolt will go in that hole upon install. There is also a orientation arrow in case you forget.
- Lower the jack and push it out of the way. The suspension/strut can now drop. Grab the top hat from the top of the spring after lowering.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot, while holding the spring/strut with your hands. It may have to lower a lot so you can swing the strut/spring under the fender. Thank your lucky stars you don't have a AWD at this point.
- That should get everything out, unless my brain forgot something
- Upon installing the new springs, install the top hat while the strut is off the car. With the lowering springs, you now have the proper clearance from the fender, but barley. Note the indentions in the rubber top hat isolator for where the spring sits on the top and the the resting spot on the bottom portion of the strut. Place the new spring in both of these spots.
- Also note the factory paint marks and line everything the best you can. Orient the top hat so the colored bolt will install in it's original factory hole, as I noted above.
- Install the top nut, but do NOT use an impact. Use that pass-thru. Tighten it all the way down.
- Keep the spring compressors on when installing the struts, so you have clearance for the fender.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot.
- Place the strut in the knuckle first and be SUPER careful in not hitting the top hat bolts on the fender when swinging the strut into the wheel well.
- Once the strut is in, use the jack to raise it into place. Very carefully line up the top hat bolts and then jack it the rest of the way, slowly.
- Re-install the 3 outer top hat nuts, so the strut is now in place
- Look at the bottom of the strut/knuckle and note the factory paint marks. Turn the strut to align the paint marks and re-install the bottom strut bolt/nut.
- You can now remove the spring compressors and re-install everything else
-Torque everything using the factory manual specs for each nut/bolt. The top nut will most likely need re-tightening with the pass-thru before you can properly torque it.
My apologies if I forgot anything, as I am a bit tired, but you should have enough info from all of this and the above thread. Any questions, just ask! Cheers.
I'm Tony Danza
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2020
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Thanks guys and just happy to help others avoid unnecessary pain!
cbr629
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2023
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- 28
I'm glad I found this!! Thanks in 2025!Perfect. The RWD is pretty easy compared to the AWD.
Start here:
DIY: ARK Performance GT-F Lowering Springs Installation Guide
Hey offroading guys! (a little height joke... :cool: ) Here is a DIY installation guide of our GT-F lowering springs. Please note the color of the springs in the photos is a test color. GT-F springs are orange. Tools needed: 10mm socket 13mm socket 17mm socket 19mm socket 17mm crescent...
Also see my post #49 for critical tips and how to modify the normal rental compressors. Without modifying them like that, you will have one hell of a time, as there is not enough free space for the compressors to fit/work.
Without further ado...other helpful tips!!
- You do NOT have to remove the hub/brakes/knuckle, even though the factory service manual states to do so
- Speaking of, see here for factory torque specs and pics... Kia Stinger - Front Strut Assembly - Front Suspension System
- Ignore steps 5-7 in the factory manual
- Place 3 layer of painters tape around the fender edges to avoid scratches
- Before you do anything, crack loose the top center nut on the strut while it is still on the car, but do NOT remove yet. Try your best not to use an impact for this nut during loosening/tightening. Buy a pass-thru ratchet set, so you can put allen keys through it to properly do this. 19mm socket and 8mm allen for this top center nut. You will need a breaker bar (most jack handles can fit over the ratchets)
- Example of a pass-thru set, but buy a brand you trust. Get one that at least goes to 19mm, if not more: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pas...pass+through+socket+set&qid=1646790751&sr=8-6
- Once that top nut is loose, get under there and remove the sway bar link from the strut (have a jack handy, so you can lift the suspension to easily remove/install the link). The pass-thru 17mm socket is key here as well, along with a 6mm allen
- Remove the tie rod end. I had both the drivers side and passenger side jacked up, so I could turn the suspension as needed for the tie rod ends.
- Remove the brake line from the knuckle and electronic connectors from the strut if you have them
- Remove the lower strut nut/bolt. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the knuckle a tad. See #17 in the factory manual
- **Give the strut/spring a forceful wiggle back and forth while it is still in the wheel well. This will help loosen it from the knuckle**
-Place a jack under the suspension and raise it ever so slightly. This will help from everything dropping by accident.
- Now put on the modified spring compressors. You will only be able to compress one coil, but it will be enough. Watch out for hitting the car body with the compressor bolts as you compress. You will see once you get in there. There is JUST enough room to get each spring compressor on opposite side. I had to compress mine all the way.
- Now you can remove the top three outer nuts and top center nut for the strut top hat in the engine bay. Note the colored bolt. This bolt will go in that hole upon install. There is also a orientation arrow in case you forget.
- Lower the jack and push it out of the way. The suspension/strut can now drop. Grab the top hat from the top of the spring after lowering.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot, while holding the spring/strut with your hands. It may have to lower a lot so you can swing the strut/spring under the fender. Thank your lucky stars you don't have a AWD at this point.
- That should get everything out, unless my brain forgot something
- Upon installing the new springs, install the top hat while the strut is off the car. With the lowering springs, you now have the proper clearance from the fender, but barley. Note the indentions in the rubber top hat isolator for where the spring sits on the top and the the resting spot on the bottom portion of the strut. Place the new spring in both of these spots.
- Also note the factory paint marks and line everything the best you can. Orient the top hat so the colored bolt will install in it's original factory hole, as I noted above.
- Install the top nut, but do NOT use an impact. Use that pass-thru. Tighten it all the way down.
- Keep the spring compressors on when installing the struts, so you have clearance for the fender.
- Push the suspension/rotor down with your foot.
- Place the strut in the knuckle first and be SUPER careful in not hitting the top hat bolts on the fender when swinging the strut into the wheel well.
- Once the strut is in, use the jack to raise it into place. Very carefully line up the top hat bolts and then jack it the rest of the way, slowly.
- Re-install the 3 outer top hat nuts, so the strut is now in place
- Look at the bottom of the strut/knuckle and note the factory paint marks. Turn the strut to align the paint marks and re-install the bottom strut bolt/nut.
- You can now remove the spring compressors and re-install everything else
-Torque everything using the factory manual specs for each nut/bolt. The top nut will most likely need re-tightening with the pass-thru before you can properly torque it.
My apologies if I forgot anything, as I am a bit tired, but you should have enough info from all of this and the above thread. Any questions, just ask! Cheers.
