Battery Charging & ETC

[DonD]

I have a one month old 2022 Stinger GT1. The owner's manual says to take the battery out of the trunk to charge it. That has to be nonsense as there are connectors in the engine compartment to allow the jump starting of a car with a dead battery. But, to me, the illustration is too fuzzy to make me confident of the proper terminals.

Took the spare tire out and charged the battery which is a big one power wise and is an AGM. My charger has specific settings for AGMs and ran it at 15 amps, just as I have done for years with a Pontiac G8GT and Chevy SS both of which have/had AGMs and both in the trunk.

Charged to 98% and took the charger off.

As a trivial note, amazed at the temporary spare. Most that I've seen absolutely scream "I'm as cheap as the factory could be". This temp spare appears to have the finish of a nice aftermarket wheel, glossy but of course very narrow. I need to rig up a little hook and chain to keep the covers off my head when I access the spare or the battery. Don

 

[JSolo]

I've attached the battery tender using the terminals under the hood. It's a lower charge rate of 3-4A and not consistent either.

The neg is the bolt sticking out on the passenger side near the fuse box. The positive is the shiny piece in the rear right (as facing the hood from the front) of the fuse box. If in doubt, check with a voltmeter.

My car is parking in a detached garage that while has doors still leaks plenty of air. Also the battery itself has a vent tube. I wouldn't charge the battery at a high rate without removal/trunk open, but maintaining... I don't see the issue.

 

[DonD]

I've attached the battery tender using the terminals under the hood. It's a lower charge rate of 3-4A and not consistent either.

The neg is the bolt sticking out on the passenger side near the fuse box. The positive is the shiny piece in the rear right (as facing the hood from the front) of the fuse box. If in doubt, check with a voltmeter.

My car is parking in a detached garage that while has doors still leaks plenty of air. Also the battery itself has a vent tube. I wouldn't charge the battery at a high rate without removal/trunk open, but maintaining... I don't see the issue.

Thanks, yes, the hatchback and covers were open and the garage doors were open, so plenty of ventilation.

While I've always changed the oil and done routine maintenance, I'm going to have the dealer change the oil at 500 or so miles, a practice I've always done and it seems to have served me well as I've never ever had engine issues.

Svc manager is OK with me watching and I'll have several questions for him. Don

 

[JSolo]

The biggest headache of the oil change (for me) was getting the new filter installed.

 

[DonD]

The biggest headache of the oil change (for me) was getting the new filter installed.

Have you or any others found a way to use a floor jack to lift the entire front end and then support with jack stands? Doesn't seem to be an option but then I'm new to the Stinger world. Don

 

[JSolo]

There was a discussion on this before - see Floor jack recommendations .

 

[D.J.]

I have a one month old 2022 Stinger GT1. The owner's manual says to take the battery out of the trunk to charge it. That has to be nonsense as there are connectors in the engine compartment to allow the jump starting of a car with a dead battery. But, to me, the illustration is too fuzzy to make me confident of the proper terminals.

Took the spare tire out and charged the battery which is a big one power wise and is an AGM. My charger has specific settings for AGMs and ran it at 15 amps, just as I have done for years with a Pontiac G8GT and Chevy SS both of which have/had AGMs and both in the trunk.

Charged to 98% and took the charger off.

As a trivial note, amazed at the temporary spare. Most that I've seen absolutely scream "I'm as cheap as the factory could be". This temp spare appears to have the finish of a nice aftermarket wheel, glossy but of course very narrow. I need to rig up a little hook and chain to keep the covers off my head when I access the spare or the battery. Don

What are you charging the battery for? or are you storing for an extended period of time?

 

[DonD]

What are you charging the battery for? or are you storing for an extended period of time?

Just think it's good practice to start off with a full charge, somehow, doubt the dealers spend much time doing that before delivery.

You shouldn't expect the alternator to bring the battery up from a significant way down. Don

 

[D.J.]

Just think it's good practice to start off with a full charge, somehow, doubt the dealers spend much time doing that before delivery.

You shouldn't expect the alternator to bring the battery up from a significant way down. Don

For sure the dealers do not do that.

I have higher expectations of my alternator than you do

 

[hayagix]

There is a constant and substantial draw on the battery. Last winter I didn't drive much(Sunday drives) and my battery gradually lost enough charge so that the auto stop quit.
I've kept a maintainer on it since. Wired in under the hood.

 

[JSolo]

My car was bought literally off the truck. Drive home about an hour. Did it get fully charged? Maybe maybe not. I left it on the battery tender for a few days, confident now the battery was fully charged.

It's cold here, ~30-40F. Car gets driven once a week or less. It will be going on the tender again.

@hayagix can you post some pics of your wired connector?

 

[hayagix]

My car was bought literally off the truck. Drive home about an hour. Did it get fully charged? Maybe maybe not. I left it on the battery tender for a few days, confident now the battery was fully charged.

It's cold here, ~30-40F. Car gets driven once a week or less. It will be going on the tender again.

@hayagix can you post some pics of your wired connector?

My car was bought literally off the truck. Drive home about an hour. Did it get fully charged? Maybe maybe not. I left it on the battery tender for a few days, confident now the battery was fully charged.

It's cold here, ~30-40F. Car gets driven once a week or less. It will be going on the tender again.

@hayagix can you post some pics of your wired connector?

Sure.

 

[n8hegr8]

There is a constant and substantial draw on the battery. Last winter I didn't drive much(Sunday drives) and my battery gradually lost enough charge so that the auto stop quit.
I've kept a maintainer on it since. Wired in under the hood.

so this is the answer about the auto start stop not working? battery needs to be charged? auto start stop quit working for me ever since i had dashcams hardwired into the fuse box. they are designed to cut off at a certain voltage. and i kept getting an error when i start the car every morning, Battery discharge due to external devices"

 

[hayagix]

so this is the answer about the auto start stop not working? battery needs to be charged? auto start stop quit working for me ever since i had dashcams hardwired into the fuse box. they are designed to cut off at a certain voltage. and i kept getting an error when i start the car every morning, Battery discharge due to external devices"

Yes, a low battery will defeat the idle stop feature. I have dashcams but they shut off. Mechanic suspects they still draw a bit of current regardless. UVO and alarm system would also contribute to battery drain I suspect. I've had 0 issues since using a battery maintainer.

I've got a Noco genius 2 amp charger coming. A little more umph for the big stinger battery. The one amp and lower maintainers take days to replenish a low battery.

 

[D.J.]

so this is the answer about the auto start stop not working? battery needs to be charged? auto start stop quit working for me ever since i had dashcams hardwired into the fuse box. they are designed to cut off at a certain voltage. and i kept getting an error when i start the car every morning, Battery discharge due to external devices"

That's an impressive error message. I did not know our car's had such detection..

If your battery is at a low state of charge - that is ONE of the conditions that would prevent the idle stop system from operating.

the battery SOC (State Of Charge) must be over 78% for the ISG system to operate.

 

[JSolo]

I rarely use start/stop, but will on occasion on long for long lights. While stopped, I apply the button to enable. Sometimes it will work, others I'll need to move forward a bit then it works (engine shuts off). Once light turns green, I press the button again. Start/stop disables and engine fires to life. Seems marginally less engine load than letting off the brake to get it fire back up.

 

[D.J.]

Also of note - - the ISG will only operate if the battery temperature (measured at the battery) is between 2 to 60 deg C (36 to 140 deg F).

 

[D.J.]

Seems marginally less engine load than letting off the brake to get it fire back up.

Can you elaborate on this?

 

[JSolo]

If you lift your foot of the brake, engine has to start up immediately and propel the car forward. By just starting the engine back up without moving should be less load on the engine at that instant. This is all speculation. I'm sure this can be more scientifically tested. For example, transcient output torque at the crank after the engine fires up/car moves forward vs just firing the engine up with no movement.

 

[D.J.]

In both cases - the car is starting in drive. In one case the brakes are still applied, vs the car being free to roll forward (assuming auto hold is not part of the equation).

I would argue the opposite of your thought is true.
I would also argue that - why does it matter at all?