Adding BMS Dual Intake and BMS Zero Maintenance Oil Catch Cans... Need Advice!

[DustinCheeks]

So i am thinking of adding the BMS Dual Cone Intake and BMS Zero Maintenance Oil Catch Can offered on the "KDM Warehouse" to my 2021 GT1 and i have a couple questions for anyone who can help!

To my understanding these items are pretty much plug and play and do not require any additional add-ons to ensure proper use and lifetime, correct? Or is there something(s) that I'm missing that is required to add (in addition) to these two items?

Also, any advice in regard to add-ons that will help increase the performance of these items would be awesome.

Lastly, the website states... "Note the Stinger has two separate PCV paths, vacuum side and boost side. The BMS Zero Maintenance oil catch can is for the vacuum side which we’ve found contributes ~95% of the manifold PCV oil contamination. With the Stinger we have not found any significant benefit to adding a separator to the boost side (driver side) system and suggest leaving it factory." Has anyone had any experience with this specific OCC or other 0 maintenance OCC's. Would you recommend going this route or getting the dual OCC's for both sides?

Thank you in advance for any help/advice offered!

 

[trooperducky]

I think BMS has put a lot of time and research into their products, and that has been proven with the amount of modded stingers with BMS products. Both of these items are 100% bolt on and you don't require any additional modifications. The only thing i would recommend is, if you get these mods, is to just check the air filters every 10k miles or so and make sure they are clean, and maybe pull off the catch can to ensure it is still in working order every once in awhile. But technically i would consider both of these mods almost zero maintenance.

I soon will be buying the BMS OCC for my personal vehicle because i like the fact that they took the time to see how much oil contamination goes into the boost side vs the vacuum side and then realized they could simplify the product.

 

[DustinCheeks]

I think BMS has put a lot of time and research into their products, and that has been proven with the amount of modded stingers with BMS products. Both of these items are 100% bolt on and you don't require any additional modifications. The only thing i would recommend is, if you get these mods, is to just check the air filters every 10k miles or so and make sure they are clean, and maybe pull off the catch can to ensure it is still in working order every once in awhile. But technically i would consider both of these mods almost zero maintenance.

I soon will be buying the BMS OCC for my personal vehicle because i like the fact that they took the time to see how much oil contamination goes into the boost side vs the vacuum side and then realized they could simply the product.

Thats what ive heard. Thanks for the advice!

 

[ChaneRZ]

I have them both and they are plug and play.

 

[DustinCheeks]

I have them both and they are plug and play.

@ChaneRZ how long have you had them? do they work as you hoped?

 

[ChaneRZ]

A year now. Yes and I’m satisfied. I just had to change the worm gear clamp into a c clamp instead for the catch can hose. C clamp is better.

 

[hummus]

Has anyone had any experience with this specific OCC or other 0 maintenance OCC's. Would you recommend going this route or getting the dual OCC's for both sides?

Thank you in advance for any help/advice offered!

Whatever you do, don't try to buy a second BMS 0 maintenance catch can for the boost side. As I understand it, this OCC is designed to let gravity pull the condensate back down into the crank case, and it's able to do this because of how the vacuum side is plumbed, with the PCV downhill from the intake manifold.

The plumbing for the boost side places the crank case vent port uphill from the driver side intake. If trying to install one of these cans on that line, the best case scenario is that it does nothing. The worst case scenario is it starts condensing blow-by, and when it reaches a certain amount, it would start dripping into the intake--which is the exact thing you'd want a can on this side to prevent.

If you do decide to put a can on this side, you'd probably want one that contains the condensate instead of trying to let it drain via gravity.

 

[DustinCheeks]

Whatever you do, don't try to buy a second BMS 0 maintenance catch can for the boost side. As I understand it, this OCC is designed to let gravity pull the condensate back down into the crank case, and it's able to do this because of how the vacuum side is plumbed, with the PCV downhill from the intake manifold.

The plumbing for the boost side places the crank case vent port uphill from the driver side intake. If trying to install one of these cans on that line, the best case scenario is that it does nothing. The worst case scenario is it starts condensing blow-by, and when it reaches a certain amount, it would start dripping into the intake--which is the exact thing you'd want a can on this side to prevent.

If you do decide to put a can on this side, you'd probably want one that contains the condensate instead of trying to let it drain via gravity.

I just realized the way I typed that made it sound like I was thinking of getting two zero maintenance. I meant to say, either get a zero maintenance or get a dual OCC (not 0 maintenance). I did read the same thing, about how the BMS works with the gravity drain and only needing it on the one side. Thanks for giving me a heads up though

 

[hummus]

I just realized the way I typed that made it sound like I was thinking of getting two zero maintenance. I meant to say, either get a zero maintenance or get a dual OCC (not 0 maintenance). I did read the same thing, about how the BMS works with the gravity drain and only needing it on the one side. Thanks for giving me a heads up though

Sounds good, though I have a second part of this cautionary tale: if by dual OCC you mean a single can with dual inlets, I'm personally not a great fan of that setup for this car. The reason is, it deviates too much from the factory EGR design. Using two separate cans--one for the vacuum side and one for the boost side--at least allows for the factory pathways to stay intact, since each can just sits on an existing line instead of redirecting one of them and introducing a plug and/or breather filter, as is necessary in a dual inlet can.

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on this, but I think it's important to keep in that the system we're messing with (EGR) serves a design purpose (crank case pressure regulation), and that purpose should be kept in mind when modifying. Aftermarket OCC or AOS devices are meant to reduce a perceived downside of that system, and the truth is, no one has provided conclusive evidence that they are effective at doing so. In my mind, what we'd want to avoid is trying to solve the perceived downside with a solution that may or may not work, and in so doing, compromise the original purpose of the system in the first place.

 

[DustinCheeks]

Sounds good, though I have a second part of this cautionary tale: if by dual OCC you mean a single can with dual inlets, I'm personally not a great fan of that setup for this car. The reason is, it deviates too much from the factory EGR design. Using two separate cans--one for the vacuum side and one for the boost side--at least allows for the factory pathways to stay intact, since each can just sits on an existing line instead of redirecting one of them and introducing a plug and/or breather filter, as is necessary in a dual inlet can.

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on this, but I think it's important to keep in that the system we're messing with (EGR) serves a design purpose (crank case pressure regulation), and that purpose should be kept in mind when modifying. Aftermarket OCC or AOS devices are meant to reduce a perceived downside of that system, and the truth is, no one has provided conclusive evidence that they are effective at doing so. In my mind, what we'd want to avoid is trying to solve the perceived downside with a solution that may or may not work, and in so doing, compromise the original purpose of the system in the first place.

Thats a very good point... I ended up going with the BMS 0 Maintenance. Just got it in the mail today

 

[DustinCheeks]

A year now. Yes and I’m satisfied. I just had to change the worm gear clamp into a c clamp instead for the catch can hose. C clamp is better.

What sort of maintenance goes along with the intakes? and can you elaborate on the worn clip? which one are you referring too?

Thanks bud.

 

[ChaneRZ]

I don’t like the screw type. They put stress on the hose. C clamps are the best because the put even pressure on either hot or cold hose.

 

[DustinCheeks]

I don’t like the screw type. They put stress on the hose. C clamps are the best because the put even pressure on either hot or cold hose.

Ah I got you now. The pic helped a lot thank you.

So I installed my intakes last night. Very easy install but I was very surprised with how tight they sat underneath the strut braces. When replacing the braces I had to put a good amount of pressure on top of the intakes and now their both pressed up against either strut brace. It seems like the strut braces are holding the intakes down which I like in a sense because it seems as if they’re securing the intakes but I was wondering if you had the same result? All in all they work very well and added a very nice sound so I know they’re working correctly. I adjusted them as much as I could to avoid ‘intake on strut brace contact’ but it was unavoidable. Let me know if it was the same for you.

 

[ChaneRZ]

Yes same here. The bar does put pressure on the intake but it makes them secured.

 

[DustinCheeks]

Yes same here. The bar does put pressure on the intake but it makes them secured.

good to know. glad it's not just mine.