BMS Stinger Zero Maintenance OCC Review

[oddball]

So, you just chopping up the scotchbrite into bits? Would cutting disks and creating layers of scotchbrite / steel wool / scotchbrite have an advantage? Just as long as it didn't shut down the flow too much.
I'd think a stainless steel scrubby would be a pretty good material as well.

God no!
The sintered bronze element is a good particulate filter for the port that it's on. The other port is wide open. So I cut a small piece of scotchbrite that fits in that other port very tightly. That piece of scotchbrite acts like a particulate filter. It won't come out, there isn't enough material to be restrictive, and it stops any steel wool that might break loose from going through. It took a few tries to get a piece that fit well and wasn't restrictive.

So, if anyone modifies their catch cans, USE COMMON SENSE. Please.

To separate oil from an oil/air mist, the oil needs to condense. This happens naturally (oil doesn't like being suspended in air) which is why even empty cans are somewhat effective. Just dropping the temperature of the mist will cause the oil to separate. Condensation happens easiest when the mist hits a solid surface that the oil can "grab" onto. The separator plates in the typical cans serve that purpose, but obviously that's not a whole lot of goodness happening. The sintered bronze elements are effectively creating a very large surface area for the mist to wander through. Adding steel wool just gives the oil an even larger surface area to grab.

 

[Guest-66345]

Any updates?

 

[Jaymorz]

Just ordered

Will review once installed and tested.

Any concerns of cold weather freezing the oil droplets before they have a chance to drain? Sounds insane to occur BUT I have to ask lol!

 

[Aarvix]

The oil certainly won't freeze.

There may be a little water vapor in the PCV gasses that might condense in the OCC, but it wouldn't be enough to clog the OCC and the heat from the engine bay and PCV gasses would melt it quickly after startup.

 

[G-417984]

Just lurking around. Scotch brite uses alluminum oxide dust as the abrasive. That shit will embed itself into valves, cylinder walls ect. Take that shit out of your catch can before you ruin an engine. Theirs lots of warning out ther on the web about not using it to clean block surfaces when doing head gaskets. Just FYI. Especially if your returning the oil to the engine! OMG the bearings!

 

[oldmane]

Ordered and just installed. I didn’t cut anything although I routed the hose behind the sensor wire so it doesn’t kink. But now it seems to sit a bit more horizontally with a slight angle toward the back. Didn’t know if this was a concern or not.

 

[djerickd]

I got mine to angle down a little hopefully allowing drainage..

 

[oldmane]

Here is what mine looks like. I’m pointing to the wire I had to route the rear hose behind to prevent pinching.

 

[Tonkabob]

Here is what mine looks like. I’m pointing to the wire I had to route the rear hose behind to prevent pinching.

Take an inch off that top hose and it will fit much better.
Don't cut the bottom, its tapered.

 

[Moses]

Just lurking around. Scotch brite uses alluminum oxide dust as the abrasive. That shit will embed itself into valves, cylinder walls ect. Take that shit out of your catch can before you ruin an engine. Theirs lots of warning out ther on the web about not using it to clean block surfaces when doing head gaskets. Just FYI. Especially if your returning the oil to the engine! OMG the bearings!

Wow. I just looked this up because, honestly, I thought you were crazy. I've been an auto tech for 15 years and I've used scotch Brite pads for years. Every shop I've worked in has supplied them. I learned something new today and all I can think is my OCD about cleaning engine parts is the only reason I haven't seen more engines I've built come back on a hook. Thank you for posting that because I have literally never heard of it before. Time to figure out a new way to clean sealing surfaces...

 

[xot1]

So I installed mine yesterday and I tried to route the pcv hose behind the other hose as suggested. There may be differences between cars but in my case it added even more tension on the pcv hose so I chose not to route it that way. Instead, I gave it an angle to the right side where it has more space to expand(?). I took few pics, see for yourself.

Overall, I am very pleased with the little amount of space this product takes vs other catch cans. Also, not having to empty it or worry that condensed water freezes in winter is a very welcomed peace of mind.

I had the ADD W1 catch can before, which I cannot compain about in terms of function or quality, but it took a lot of space and got into the way everytime I had to work on the engine side (plugs etc.). I also prefer this kind of stealth implementation.

 

[Jaymorz]

So I installed mine yesterday and I tried to route the pcv hose behind the other hose as suggested. There may be differences between cars but in my case it added even more tension on the pcv hose so I chose not to route it that way. Instead, I gave it an angle to the right side where it has more space to expand(?). I took few pics, see for yourself.

Overall, I am very pleased with the little amount of space this product takes vs other catch cans. Also, not having to empty it or worry that condensed water freezes in winter is a very welcomed peace of mind.

I had the ADD W1 catch can before, which I cannot compain about in terms of function or quality, but it took a lot of space and got into the way everytime I had to work on the engine side (plugs etc.). I also prefer this kind of stealth implementation.

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Thanks for this post - had mine for over 6 months and with everything going on in life never had a chance to install mine until now. Is your hose cut to allow access back there or did you use everything as is? Looks clean definitely want to mimic this setup

 

[xot1]

Thanks for this post - had mine for over 6 months and with everything going on in life never had a chance to install mine until now. Is your hose cut to allow access back there or did you use everything as is? Looks clean definitely want to mimic this setup

I just cut the small hose BMS provides for the upper part, as most people. I didn't cut the stock hose.

 

[DusG88]

I just received my Zero maintenance OCC today. I'm probably going to run a couple experiments.

My gt1 has about 11200 miles on it. Once I get to 12000 for my next oil change I will send out oil to be tested by Blackstone. Then I will install the OCC, and after the next change, do another analysis. I want to ensure that the oil returning back to the sump does not affect the oil quality enough that I should decrease oil change interval.

I'm also considering to put a temporary y hose split before the OCC with a empty can down below to catch the oil going back to the sump to analyze that and see if there is significant levels of water/fuel/contaminants.

 

[sc-stinger]

I received my Zero Maintenance OCC from BMS today, took all of about 5 minutes to install.

Build Quality: Overall I'd say the build quality is good, the thread profile was good, providing a tight fit when the two ends of the catch can were screwed together (critical considering the PCV system is under vacuum). The dual baffles appear to be decently offset, prohibiting direct pass through with no obstruction (holding the baffled end up to a light I couldn't see directly through). Air passage was somewhat restricted, as one would expect - its baffled.

Installation: The supplied hose was still pretty long (I had read BMS was shortening the supplied hose). I ended up removing approximately 3/4" (1.9cm). With the stock PCV hose, it is a tight fit. Because the position of the stock PCV hose is moved back toward the firewall, it will put pressure on one of the electrical connectors (highlighted in yellow box, haven't ID'd the connector yet). Like others, I would recommend disconnecting the electrical connector, and rerouting the stock PCV hose behind it, removing that pressure on the cable. Even with the rerouting and the shortened hose, there is more of a bend at the bottom of the stock hose than I'd like (also highlighted in yellow box). You could trim that hose too, though keep in mind it's tapered, so just trim the end coming from the OCC.

Post-Install: I did a quick test drive, stopping along the way to check fitment - everything was fine. The OCC does get hot, as you'd expect. I suspect that even with the heat of the OCC, the temperature delta between the can and the PCV system is sufficient to allow oil to condense.

Overall: I like the design, quality is good, and I'll check back in a few thousand miles to see how things are going.


General OCC Thoughts: GDI-only engines have issues with carbon build-up, I think that's just a fact of life until Kia starts implementing dual port and direct-injection systems (assuming they do at all). Fuel additives of course won't do a damn thing with carbon build-up on valve head, fillet, and seat face. From what I have seen, chemicals like SeaFoam and CRC GDI IVD only do minimal cleaning of established carbon build-up. Soaking the intake in those chemicals can work, but it's more likely that removing the carbon with a physical brush / media blasting is likely the best option. HumbleMechanic on youtube has some detailed thoughts on GDI carbon build-up (working extensively with VW GDI turbo engines). ChrisFix has also tried a number of cleaners, with less than stellar results. The Stinger seems to have some oil pass through on the PCV side, and very little to none on the CCV side. Most of the videos I've seen, the person posting is amazed at what their OCC is catching... but the majority of that seems to be water and fuel. I have yet to see someone dump out their OCC and separate the oil from the water / fuel mixture, and measure the amount of actual oil. Will an OCC make a difference in the long-run? Yeah probably a little bit, but it's not a cure-all. GDI is still going to be GDI, and if you're keeping the Stinger long term you'll likely have to have a dealership or good mechanic perform a physical removal of carbon build-up at some point.

 

[DusG88]

I received my Zero Maintenance OCC from BMS today, took all of about 5 minutes to install.

Build Quality: Overall I'd say the build quality is good, the thread profile was good, providing a tight fit when the two ends of the catch can were screwed together. The dual baffles appear to be decently offset, prohibiting direct pass through with no obstruction (holding the baffled end up to a light I couldn't see directly through). Air passage was somewhat restricted, as one would expect - its baffled.

Installation: The supplied hose was still pretty long (I had read BMS was shortening the supplied hose). I ended up removing approximately 3/4" (1.9cm). With the stock PCV hose, it is a tight fit. Because the position of the stock PCV hose is moved back toward the firewall, it will put pressure on one of the electrical connectors (highlighted in yellow box, haven't ID'd the connector yet). Like others, I would recommend disconnecting the electrical connector, and rerouting the stock PCV hose behind it, removing that pressure on the cable. Even with the rerouting and the shortened hose, there is more of a bend at the bottom of the stock hose than I'd like (also highlighted in yellow box). You could trim that hose too, though keep in mind it's tapered, so just trim the end coming from the OCC.

Post-Install: I did a quick test drive, stopping along the way to check fitment - everything was fine. The OCC does get hot, as you'd expect. I suspect that even with the heat of the OCC, the temperature delta between the can and the PCV system is sufficient to allow oil to condense.

Overall: I like the design, quality is good, and I'll check back in a few thousand miles to see how things are going.


General OCC Thoughts: GDI-only engines have issues with carbon build-up, I think that's just a fact of life until Kia starts implementing dual port and direct-injection systems (assuming they do at all). Fuel additives of course won't do a damn thing with carbon build-up on valve head, fillet, and seat face. From what I have seen, chemicals like SeaFoam and CRC GDI IVD only do minimal cleaning of established carbon build-up. Soaking the intake in those chemicals can work, but it's more likely that removing the carbon with a physical brush / media blasting is likely the best option. HumbleMechanic on youtube has some detailed thoughts on GDI carbon build-up (working extensively with VW GDI turbo engines). ChrisFix has also tried a number of cleaners, with less than stellar results. The Stinger seems to have some oil pass through on the PCV side, and very little to none on the CCV side. Most of the videos I've seen, the person posting is amazed at what their OCC is catching... but the majority of that seems to be water and fuel. I have yet to see someone dump out their OCC and separate the oil from the water / fuel mixture, and measure the amount of actual oil. Will an OCC make a difference in the long-run? Yeah probably a little bit, but it's not a cure-all. GDI is still going to be GDI, and if you're keeping the Stinger long term you'll likely have to have a dealership or good mechanic perform a physical removal of carbon build-up at some point.

The heat of the OCC sounds like a good thing. Particularly since this drains back to the sump if it gets hot enough to vaporize the water instead of drain it back to the oil, id be pretty happy. Thanks for the update. Mine is going on probably next weekend.

 

[sc-stinger]

The heat of the OCC sounds like a good thing. Particularly since this drains back to the sump if it gets hot enough to vaporize the water instead of drain it back to the oil, id be pretty happy. Thanks for the update. Mine is going on probably next weekend.

I would agree... without having tested the coffee-colored waste that others find in their ADD W1, Mishimoto, etc. catch cans, videos posted always look like mostly water and some fuel, based on the observable viscosity.

I'm interested to see long term what the effects of the BMS Zero Maintenance OCC are... there is a good chance that the heat of the can will aid in further evaporation before being passed back into the intakes.

 

[StingThis]

I put alot highway miles on my car. @ 50k ill probably be looking, and will post here. Should be in about 10 months. So early spring 2020

-Any updates on the OCC you installed late last year? Any feedback is appreciated, thanks!

 

[Talloneus Khan]

-Any updates on the OCC you installed late last year? Any feedback is appreciated, thanks!

Haven't had a chance to check the valves yet, with how this year has been going, I have had to push alot of things back. however, according to all my oil changes etc, everything seems to be working good! I dont imagine that I will find very much when I do check, as I do use a meth kit, which should be keeping everything fairly clean up top.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Yeah, would love to hear more about results