Keeping it new

mldavis2

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There were some good comments in another thread, but I thought I'd add my 2-cents worth on trying to maintain showroom condition.

The interior pretty well takes care of itself. I never try to eat a Big Mac with one hand while driving or anything else that can find its way down between the seats to die there. My trade-ins have been known to display a few Skittles, however. There are some decent leather protectants that don't leave residue on your clothes that I use when I think about it. Keep the seats vacuumed and clean so the grit doesn't wear the surface.

But it's the exterior that is a real problem because you can't leave the car in the garage. So I play the percentages.
1) Always park in a deserted area of the parking lot if possible. Get used to the wife's complaints. My problem is that someone always parks out beside me, probably because they want a better look at my car. So you have to use additional statistical protection.
2) Always try to find an end space on the end of a row. You can usually crowd the space away from the adjacent car and remove yourself from the door width of that mud-caked Hummer that will find its way beside you.
3) If you can't find wide parking spaces, try to park next to other newer cars or cars that the owners have kept new-looking. They don't want to chip their doors, either. Avoid old junkers or exceptionally dirty grocery haulers.
4) Play the percentages. If you must park between two cars, you have a slightly higher chance of having only the driver and no passenger so space yourself accordingly. The downside is that many passengers don't care as much as the driver if the door hits your car.
5) In the past, I used to always try to parallel park. No longer with the Stinger because of all the radar sensors and such in the bumpers...unless you can find an exceptionally wide space where other cars are less likely to need extra room to get in/out.
6) Keep the exterior clean and waxed. Accumulated road dirt and grime seems to cause deterioration of the clear coating. I don't know why, but it does. Accumulated insects on the front will etch the paint very quickly so keep that waxed and clean it off very frequently before the chemical reactions have a chance to take place.
7) I use a good quality silicone wax. My past favorite was Black Magic but that has been discontinued in my area, so I'm likely to use Turtle Wax ICE unless I find a better one. It is very difficult to find an objective review of car waxes online. I think it's more important to use something rather than splitting hairs over which one.
 
I have been using chemical guys XXX wax and love that stuff. It is an unbleached carnuba wax, and because if it being a yellow hue it makes the red of my car look deeper and amazing. I love it and will use it until i run out then i will check other options at that point. :)
 
I've used Collinite 845 insulator wax for years. Get it on Amazon since you won't find it in stores. Goes on easy, you use very little and it comes off easy......if applied in the shade. By far THE best wax I have ever used. Lasts 6 months+ here in western NC. One bottle goes a looong way too. If you start with a clean surface like a new car and use this stuff, you won't have to worry about future repairs like polishing out water spots or bug and sap grime. FYI to all. Happy motoring!
 
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I have been using chemical guys XXX wax and love that stuff. It is an unbleached carnuba wax, and because if it being a yellow hue it makes the red of my car look deeper and amazing. I love it and will use it until i run out then i will check other options at that point. :)

+1 for The Chemical guys products they are by far the best products I have ever used.
 
Don't you have to strip old wax off before applying new?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
if i use this with yellow tint on my blue GT, will it make my car green?
 
if i use this with yellow tint on my blue GT, will it make my car green?
no no. It's a great product. The blue you have is like my buddies old Subaru and we use that wax on his car and it looked great when we were done
 
Don't you have to strip old wax off before applying new?
Only if you recently wax the car and you want to try a new product then yes I would say remove the old wax and put the new one on
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
After doing some heavy research on waxes, I'm inclined to think that the waxes like McGuire's combination carnuba/polymer waxes are better than just silicone, or of course the crazy-priced waxes from Prestige, Chemical guys or others. From what I understand the high-priced waxes are not necessarily "better" protection, but they are easier to remove and do not "haze" like Turtle wax. Biggest thing is surface-prep on anything except a brand new car.
 
im with the original post here. its important to have some protection, dont need to be obsessed with which wax to use.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
First post after jsut taking home my black GT1- got this offer from a local company with a good reputation- wanted to see what everyone thought about it. Offer is for $1000. Had a clear bra put on it and windows tinted. Wanted to maybe do the below to. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
High pressure spotless pre soak
Snow foam car bath with Car Pro Iron X Soap
Hand wash with Plush towels
High pressure spotless rinse
Clay bar with ceramic infused lubricant
Iron X Fall out decontamination treatment
One stage of paint correction to remove up to 50% of imperfections
Prep surface for coating with wax and grease remover
Apply feynlab 3 year ceramic coating to paint
Apply Feynlab Wheel and Caliper to wheel faces
IR cure coating
Vacuum and wipe down interior
 
First post after jsut taking home my black GT1- got this offer from a local company with a good reputation- wanted to see what everyone thought about it. Offer is for $1000. Had a clear bra put on it and windows tinted. Wanted to maybe do the below to. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
High pressure spotless pre soak
Snow foam car bath with Car Pro Iron X Soap
Hand wash with Plush towels
High pressure spotless rinse
Clay bar with ceramic infused lubricant
Iron X Fall out decontamination treatment
One stage of paint correction to remove up to 50% of imperfections
Prep surface for coating with wax and grease remover
Apply feynlab 3 year ceramic coating to paint
Apply Feynlab Wheel and Caliper to wheel faces
IR cure coating
Vacuum and wipe down interior
congratulation!! and welcome to the forum, nice of you to join us.

I have mever heard of Feynlab ceramic coating products. but then, there are many brands out there. the coating sounds like its the professional grade one since it needs IR curing. the steps mentioned there sounds legit for coating a new car.

my only recommendation is to do a bit more research and see if there are other offerings. not that I doubt this shop but just to see the market in general.

by the way, please share some photos!
 
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