After reading up on the factory (OEM) remote start I decided I did not want to restart upon entry and the aftermarket CAN bus module appeared to be a fairly over complicated install for what it provides. Therefore, I went to, what I consider, to be the next best option and will be installing the iDatalink HC3452A, which includes the CMHCXA0 (control module), ADS-AHR-HCA (analog harnesses), AN2400A3 (long range antenna), and 2X TR3450AF (two 2-way 5 button mile range remotes).
This is *NOT* intended to be a DIY. I cannot recommend a novice attempt this install. If anything, it should serve as a reason why you should seek professional installation.
Caveats:
Why this unit and not say a Viper (DEI) or Python (also DEI)?
This is personal preference, but I do not believe that Directed Electronics has evolved in any appreciable way over the last 5-8 years. I used to swear by their products (Viper, Python, etc.) but having used Compustar, almost exclusively, in manual transmission cars due to the ease of install, module wiring layout, and takeover process, I became a convert. In addition, DEI never evolved to include a transponder inside the control module therefore alleviating the need for additional modules and wiring. And maybe DEI has evolved, but I haven't bothered to look and my circle of installers and engineers haven't mentioned them so I would assume they haven't.
So why not Compustar?
You cannot go wrong with the iDataLink or Compustar, but the simple fact is that both systems are very similar that you'd think there was a collaboration -- and to think of it I believe there was in terms of transponder technology. Where the the Compustar comes out on top is the ability to add additional modules. For example, you can add the alarm module to the Compustar and have a full fledged active alarm with siren, tilt switch, and shock sensor. The iDataLink can also add an alarm, but it's more basic and doesn't have all the functionality of the Compustar offering.
What the iDataLink does have is two 2-way remotes that come with the system. If you price out a two-way remote, which is one that not only sends a signal to the car but can also let you know it has been received, you will find that these remotes typically are $100/each, and they're giving you two of them.
Even still, I don't plan on using those remotes at all since I do not plan to carry more than 1 remote. The iDataLink allows you to use the factory keyfob to start the car by pressing the lock button three times successively, granted at a greatly reduced range compared to the 1 mile 2 way remotes included.
Additionally, the real benefit is with the takeover process where you simply enter the vehicle as normal, close the door, put your foot on the brake and remove your foot, and you're ready to go.
Of course there are additional things you can do such as increase the runtime, enable a turbo timer, passive locking, hatch release, etc.
Lastly, ease of install. There are 18 wires total that need to be connected. That may sound like a lot, but that's nothing when you're not using about 40 of them, which means the install should be relatively clean.
Ok, so what's the price: $250
Package was delivered today. Comes in a nice tidy low profile box.
Opening the primary box reveals three boxes.
1) Analog harness
2) Remotes
3) Remote Start Module
Module
Everything connected, which can be a bit intimidating, but you do not use all of them.
Now it’s time to do bench prep. This step is crucial. It means we are removing wires and harnesses that are not included in this install.
Here is the regular primary harness. The primary harness consists of heavy gauge wiring for 12v, ignition, starter, etc.
Here’s our paired down main harness.
I simply tapped the second 12v wire to the first, and the second ignition as well as the wire wire are not used for this install.
Next up is this harness
We pair it down for this install, which is using two of the wires (green/white and green/black)
Next up is this harness
Luckily, we do not use this harness at all.
Here’s our next harness
For this install, we’re using a few wires to handle the encrypted transponder encoding as well as the takeover procedure.
Finally, we have the last harness that interfaces with the anti-theft system.
I do not have a before picture, but we are using only 4 wires.
Here’s the end result. These are all the wires that I’ll connect in the morning and wrap this install up. There are 16 total.
Got around to completing the install today.
Here's out takeover wire, which is located on the rear of the dash fuse box.
Positive trigger parking light wire at the light switch.
Starter wire in the passenger kick panel(Brown/Orange)
CANbus data high and low located on the back of the dash fuse box
Push-to-Start wires at the PTS button
12v located at the dash fuse box
Immobilizer data in the driver's kickpanel
Accessory (white) and Ignition (red) at the dash fuse box
Overview
This is *NOT* intended to be a DIY. I cannot recommend a novice attempt this install. If anything, it should serve as a reason why you should seek professional installation.
Caveats:
- I am a MECP Master Certified Autotech
- I have a background in 12v electronics
- You need a programmer, and a Windows PC or Mac with Bootcamp, to program the module.*
Why this unit and not say a Viper (DEI) or Python (also DEI)?
This is personal preference, but I do not believe that Directed Electronics has evolved in any appreciable way over the last 5-8 years. I used to swear by their products (Viper, Python, etc.) but having used Compustar, almost exclusively, in manual transmission cars due to the ease of install, module wiring layout, and takeover process, I became a convert. In addition, DEI never evolved to include a transponder inside the control module therefore alleviating the need for additional modules and wiring. And maybe DEI has evolved, but I haven't bothered to look and my circle of installers and engineers haven't mentioned them so I would assume they haven't.
So why not Compustar?
You cannot go wrong with the iDataLink or Compustar, but the simple fact is that both systems are very similar that you'd think there was a collaboration -- and to think of it I believe there was in terms of transponder technology. Where the the Compustar comes out on top is the ability to add additional modules. For example, you can add the alarm module to the Compustar and have a full fledged active alarm with siren, tilt switch, and shock sensor. The iDataLink can also add an alarm, but it's more basic and doesn't have all the functionality of the Compustar offering.
What the iDataLink does have is two 2-way remotes that come with the system. If you price out a two-way remote, which is one that not only sends a signal to the car but can also let you know it has been received, you will find that these remotes typically are $100/each, and they're giving you two of them.
Even still, I don't plan on using those remotes at all since I do not plan to carry more than 1 remote. The iDataLink allows you to use the factory keyfob to start the car by pressing the lock button three times successively, granted at a greatly reduced range compared to the 1 mile 2 way remotes included.
Additionally, the real benefit is with the takeover process where you simply enter the vehicle as normal, close the door, put your foot on the brake and remove your foot, and you're ready to go.
Of course there are additional things you can do such as increase the runtime, enable a turbo timer, passive locking, hatch release, etc.
Lastly, ease of install. There are 18 wires total that need to be connected. That may sound like a lot, but that's nothing when you're not using about 40 of them, which means the install should be relatively clean.
Ok, so what's the price: $250
Package was delivered today. Comes in a nice tidy low profile box.
Opening the primary box reveals three boxes.
1) Analog harness
2) Remotes
3) Remote Start Module
Module
Everything connected, which can be a bit intimidating, but you do not use all of them.
Now it’s time to do bench prep. This step is crucial. It means we are removing wires and harnesses that are not included in this install.
Here is the regular primary harness. The primary harness consists of heavy gauge wiring for 12v, ignition, starter, etc.
Here’s our paired down main harness.
I simply tapped the second 12v wire to the first, and the second ignition as well as the wire wire are not used for this install.
Next up is this harness
We pair it down for this install, which is using two of the wires (green/white and green/black)
Next up is this harness
Luckily, we do not use this harness at all.
Here’s our next harness
For this install, we’re using a few wires to handle the encrypted transponder encoding as well as the takeover procedure.
Finally, we have the last harness that interfaces with the anti-theft system.
I do not have a before picture, but we are using only 4 wires.
Here’s the end result. These are all the wires that I’ll connect in the morning and wrap this install up. There are 16 total.
Got around to completing the install today.
Here's out takeover wire, which is located on the rear of the dash fuse box.
Positive trigger parking light wire at the light switch.
Starter wire in the passenger kick panel(Brown/Orange)
CANbus data high and low located on the back of the dash fuse box
Push-to-Start wires at the PTS button
12v located at the dash fuse box
Immobilizer data in the driver's kickpanel
Accessory (white) and Ignition (red) at the dash fuse box
Overview
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