As a former Director of a very well known battery manufacturer, I would never consider such a high power inverter.
The battery is not sized to handle deep cycle loads as it is a thin plate battery designed for short rapid discharges (starting). Also, keep in mind that it states its efficiency is "Up To 90%", but most inverters are actually only ~85% efficient.
Not sure what you plan to run off of this inverter, but here is a quick cheat sheet on some power loads (Keep in mind Amps are per hour):
This particular inverter has an audible low voltage alarm at 10.6 volts; 10.5 volts is 100% discharged. The starters in our cars won't crank if they don't see around 12.1 volts.
The stock battery is 80 Ah, so if trying to maintain above 12.1 volts to ensure the car starts, you'll want to make sure you use no more than ~20 Amps of energy. Also consider that the alternator is sized to power the vehicle's electronics and replenish discharge used when cranking. Adding an inverter creates an environment where the alternator will become more of a battery charger. In reality, you should increase the alternator capacity AND cabling so it can carry the additional capacity. Your alternator will get hot enough to fry an egg otherwise.
I've seen dozens of situations in boats and semi trucks where inverters have been added, alternator and calbe sizing are ignored and fires have started.
One other thing to keep in mind...as batteries age, they will naturally decrease in capacity and peak charge voltage. Temperature will also affect this. Every 10 degrees below 70F will decrease battery capacity by 50% (Lead acid battery derating).
I hope you find this helpful as that is my only intent here. I'd hate to read that you started needing regular jump starts or worse, hearing that your car burned to the frame.
If you want more data on this, I have lots of lab test data. BCI (Battery Council International) also has a great website with a lot of downloadable content (for a fee).
