3.3TT Cquence rotors or R1 Concepts rotors?

[StungBlueGT2]

I’m getting warping again and am in need for new brakes. I’m debating between Cquence & R1concepts both of which seem to have good reviews and a top of the line products.

Does anyone have experience with either company or their products?

I’m looking at Cquence’s Premium Sport series Drilled & Slotted rotors.
Premium Brake Disc Rotor | Cquence.net
Or R1concepts Carbon Geomet series also Drilled & Slotted.
R1 Concepts Product - R1 Carbon GEOMET Series 2018 KIA STINGER 6 Cylinder Engine fbsGT, GT1, GT2; 3.3L V6 Twin Turbofbe

Any pros & cons to each version? Any input would be appreciated and thanks in advance!

 

[StungnTn]

I'm waiting for brake kits for this car to flesh out. However, the R1 Concept rotors are heavier than stock, so I would go with the Cquence brand.

 

[itguy61]

Be sure and replace the pads on the front or you will probably ruin your new rotors. Your rotors are not warped they have pad deposits. Much info here about it

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Be sure and replace the pads on the front or you will probably ruin your new rotors. Your rotors are not warped they have pad deposits. Much info here about it

Interesting comment and brings up many other questions.

Why suggest only replacing the front pads? Arent the front & rear OEM pads made from the same materials? I know more pressure is put on the fronts during braking, but wouldn’t those pads still cause deposits on all 4 rotors? That would mean not replacing the rear pads would ruin the new rear rotors too, correct?

And I have looked for aftermarket pads but can’t find a matching set of all 4 so I’m out of time and options.

Also Im very familiar with pad deposits vs warped rotors. Unfortunately my rotors were measured by Kia 3 times and all 3 times they were warped and “confirmed out of spec”. They resurfaced them on 8/2018, replaced all 4 on 10/2018 and resurfaced the new rotors on 4/2019. Now they have the same exact shaking they’ve had repeatedly before so it’s just time to get rid of them completely.

Just need to determine which rotors are better and hope someone can explain why.

 

[Manaz]

They're out of spec because the dealership aren't just measuring the rotors - they're measuring the rotors AND the pad deposits.

There are two possibilities here:

1. The dealership is right, and the generally accepted laws of physics are wrong.
2. The dealership is wrong, and the generally accepted laws of physics are right.

Now, considering many dealerships are failing to recognise the difference between ~36psi and 50-55psi, I reckon I know which possibility is more likely.

The dealership's inability to correctly identify or communicate the problem doesn't make the physics of the matter wrong - you are simply not getting the rotors hot enough to warp them.

 

[itguy61]

Aftermarket rears are not available yet or I would change them. The rears don't do near as much work and don't seem to heat up enough to cause the deposits.

The problem with the vibration from deposits is on the front and you can correct it with aftermarket pads. I don't have any issues or notice anything having these on the front and the stocks on the rear other than the vibration is gone.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Shimmy/shudder felt through the seat, the deposits are on the back rotors. Shimmy/shudder felt through the steering wheel, the deposits are on the front rotors.

Drilled rotors are not good when they get really hot, they can crack between holes. Slotted and dimpled are good enough for the "cool look" without the risk (if you hit a track). I know all of this from reading. I read it here, months worth.

Lately, it is posited that the few vehicles with chronic (returning) shudder might have other issues going on with the brake system other than pad deposits. (It's a fairly new thread. But mushy morning middle-aged minds don't dredge up things like thread titles easily, sorry.)

(edit: here's that thread: If you have had brake issues, then read this.)

 

[StungBlueGT2]

They're out of spec because the dealership aren't just measuring the rotors - they're measuring the rotors AND the pad deposits.

There are two possibilities here:

1. The dealership is right, and the generally accepted laws of physics are wrong.
2. The dealership is wrong, and the generally accepted laws of physics are right.

Now, considering many dealerships are failing to recognise the difference between ~36psi and 50-55psi, I reckon I know which possibility is more likely.

The dealership's inability to correctly identify or communicate the problem doesn't make the physics of the matter wrong - you are simply not getting the rotors hot enough to warp them.

Don’t get me wrong and no offense to you. I do appreciate your opinion even though it didn’t help answer any of my questions. However saying that there are only “two possibilities” is a little narrow minded and misleading.

I don’t disagree that pad deposits have similar symptoms as warped rotors and can also put the rotors out of specs.

However, I tried the suggested heavy braking & rebedding procedures for deposit removal to no avail. It actually made the problem worse and my A-hole service manager reported me to Kia corporate for “abusing and overheating the brakes” so they declined my warranty on my rotors during my latest service. I even explained many Stingers had pad deposit issues, but they verified very minimal indication of deposits and confirmed the rotors were warped again so I just chose to pay for the resurfacing during my last 4/2019 service visit. I’m done going through this BS and simply want help choosing the best drilled & slotted rotors for cooling & removing debris/deposits.

I agree Kia service is subpar overall, but the reason many owners are getting 50psi tires is because many skipped parts of new car inspections, not because they don’t know the difference between 34psi & 50psi.

And if you do any research you will see that many manufacturers including Kia have decreased the quality & thickness of their rotors. Cost cutting on rotors and pads is the main reason so many newer vehicles suffer from both warped rotors & pads deposit.

True you cant deny physics, but your basis for those assumptions are simply misguided and incorrect for many of the Stingers with true warped rotor issues.

Not your fault but guess I should have specified that I wasn’t looking for opinions on whether my rotors were warped or not because I already know.

I was kindly asking for anyone’s experience and opinion between Cquence rotors & R1concepts rotors and hope we can stay on topic going forward.

 

[Manaz]

My concern is that you'll just have the same issues moving forward if you replace the rotors, and won't actually solve the issue. I've already seen one example of someone who bought aftermarket rotors still have the issue.

But fair enough on the direction you want to go. I can't give advice on those two brands - I'd be careful assuming heavier is worse if both sets are one-sided rotors, as weight is generally thermal mass, and that's generally helpful where rotors are concerned.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Not sure if this thread just doesn’t get any views but thought more people had aftermarket rotors?

Anyone with experience or opinions on either of these brands?

 

[itguy61]

A batch of Cquence rotors just went out on a group buy so you should see feedback coming soon. I have never heard of R1 rotors and don't recall seeing anyone here who has installed. I would NEVER install new aftermarket rotors without new front pads. You will probably ruin them or have to have them turned in 5-10K miles. Do yourself a favor and get stoptech or Gyrodisc brake pads from Khartunerz. Rear pads are coming very soon but they are not as big of a problem as the work and heat generated is heavily weighted toward the front brakes.

 

[robz32]

Installed my Cquence disks and replaced front pads with stoptech (rear pads not available at the moment) also added SS lines front and rear.

Have put around 400 miles on the setup and I love the way the brakes feel, huge improvement. The pedal needs less travel in order for the brakes to engage, this is mostly attributed to the SS lines expanding less under pressure.

There is a definite improvement in braking from the front pads, they feel grabbier and make no noise at all, also its been two weeks since I last washed the car and brake dust in the front wheel is certainly less than with the stock pads over the same amount of time. Keep in mind that my commute rarely changes, as I mainly go to and from work with the Stinger.

I can also say that it will take some really hard and continuous braking before you start getting brake fading with this setup (don't ask how I know )

 

[Socalstinga]

I have the R1 crossdrilled carbon geomet rotors front and back w/ stoptech front pads oem rear. Feels much better more predictable and consistent braking.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

A batch of Cquence rotors just went out on a group buy so you should see feedback coming soon. I have never heard of R1 rotors and don't recall seeing anyone here who has installed. I would NEVER install new aftermarket rotors without new front pads. You will probably ruin them or have to have them turned in 5-10K miles. Do yourself a favor and get stoptech or Gyrodisc brake pads from Khartunerz. Rear pads are coming very soon but they are not as big of a problem as the work and heat generated is heavily weighted toward the front brakes.

Yeah I'm aware of two Cquence group buys and why I thought more people would have experience or reviews about them by now. I personally know a couple people in the latest group buy and waiting on their results before I decide on the rotors.

I do agree and would typically replace all 4 pads with new rotors, but since nobody offers aftermarket rear pads everyone with new rotors is still using OEM pads. I understand 60%+ of braking is done with the front brakes but haven’t heard anyone have issues using stock pads and new rotors yet. Time will tell, but think the slotted rotors remove a lot of buildup & debris therefore almost eliminating pad deposits anyway.

I have looked at all the pads on KHartunerz, but learned and was advised to stay away from semi-metallic pads unless racing/autocross is the priority. They have superior stopping power, but too many negatives for daily drivers. I’ve heard many people complain about the stoptech pads screeching and tons of brake dust even though they say they’re low dust & NVH. My friend liked his at first but hates them now and is getting rid of his stoptechs. Per Houston@Cquence’s recommendation he’s switching them for Akebono PERFORMANCE series ultra-premium ceramic pads. Akebono PERFORMANCE Ultra-Premium Ceramic Pads | AkebonoI know ceramic pads are more costly, but I may get those because of all their advantages and pros expert advice.

Installed my Cquence disks and replaced front pads with stoptech (rear pads not available at the moment) also added SS lines front and rear.

Have put around 400 miles on the setup and I love the way the brakes feel, huge improvement. The pedal needs less travel in order for the brakes to engage, this is mostly attributed to the SS lines expanding less under pressure.

There is a definite improvement in braking from the front pads, they feel grabbier and make no noise at all, also its been two weeks since I last washed the car and brake dust in the front wheel is certainly less than with the stock pads over the same amount of time. Keep in mind that my commute rarely changes, as I mainly go to and from work with the Stinger.

I can also say that it will take some really hard and continuous braking before you start getting brake fading with this setup (don't ask how I know )

Thanks for the review on the Cquence rotors. Did you get drilled & slotted rotors? And which series are you using? Street, performance or Premium Sport?
Do you have any photos?

I have the R1 crossdrilled carbon geomet rotors front and back w/ stoptech front pads oem rear. Feels much better more predictable and consistent braking.

Thanks for your review about the R1 rotors and that specific version is what I’m considering too. How long have you had them, and do you have any photos?

 

[MerlintheMad]

One question/reserve I have about slotted and dimpled/drilled rotors is rust buildup. Over time, doesn't rust accumulate in the slots and dimples? And if drilled, it would coat the sides of the drilled holes, eating away and compromising the integrity of the rotor. Am I imagining a problem or is this actually a problem?

 

[Socalstinga]

Yeah I'm aware of two Cquence group buys and why I thought more people would have experience or reviews about them by now. I personally know a couple people in the latest group buy and waiting on their results before I decide on the rotors.

I do agree and would typically replace all 4 pads with new rotors, but since nobody offers aftermarket rear pads everyone with new rotors is still using OEM pads. I understand 60%+ of braking is done with the front brakes but haven’t heard anyone have issues using stock pads and new rotors yet. Time will tell, but think the slotted rotors remove a lot of buildup & debris therefore almost eliminating pad deposits anyway.

I have looked at all the pads on KHartunerz, but learned and was advised to stay away from semi-metallic pads unless racing/autocross is the priority. They have superior stopping power, but too many negatives for daily drivers. I’ve heard many people complain about the stoptech pads screeching and tons of brake dust even though they say they’re low dust & NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness). My friend liked his at first but hates them now and is getting rid of his stoptechs. Per Houston@Cquence’s recommendation he’s switching them for Akebono PERFORMANCE series ultra-premium ceramic pads. Akebono PERFORMANCE Ultra-Premium Ceramic Pads | AkebonoI know ceramic pads are more costly, but I may get those because of all their advantages and pros expert advice.

Thanks for the review on the Cquence rotors. Did you get drilled & slotted rotors? And which series are you using? Street, performance or Premium Sport?
Do you have any photos?
Thanks for your review about the R1 rotors and that specific version is what I’m considering too. How long have you had them, and do you have any photos?

Been on for about 250 miles now. I did the progression from only changing pads first, tried that for about 500 miles. Vibration gone, more predictable and consistent stopping w/ a little more “bite”. Now I have all of that but feel much more bite and consistently stops at a shorter distance. The pedal still has a longer than I like feel but that may be the way Kia designed the pedal? Idk
*I don't know how true this is, but the source is someone in the know - cequence gets their blank rotors from R1 but does all of their own drilling/machining on the rotors. In effect, they would be the same rotors...

 

[robz32]

Thanks for the review on the Cquence rotors. Did you get drilled & slotted rotors? And which series are you using? Street, performance or Premium Sport?
Do you have any photos?

Not sure which ones we got on the group buy, I think it was the performance. I did get crossed drilled and slotted.

Here are some photos.

 

[itguy61]

So they don't list the Stinger directly on the Akebono site. But using the same cross reference used on other pads the ASP 1001 is the pad for these Brembo calipers. Is that what you will use?

 

[StungBlueGT2]

I don't know how true this is, but the source is someone in the know - cequence gets their blank rotors from R1 but does all of their own drilling/machining on the rotors. In effect, they would be the same rotors...

Interesting and thanks for the info. That may be true for some of their rotors, but the Premium Sport series specifically is a higher grade cast iron(3500 vs 3000) than R1 offers and don’t believe they have any with the e-coating on the hubs & within the vents like the Cquence top of the line version offers.

So they don't list the Stinger directly on the Akebono site. But using the same cross reference used on other pads the ASP 1001 is the pad for these Brembo calipers. Is that what you will use?

Yeah they don’t have them on the site but yes I believe the ones I’m considering are the latest version of the ASP 1001 “PERFORMANCE Ultra-premium” Ceramic pads. That line must be pretty awesome as they are the same type of pads used on the $75k 420hp Cadillac Twin Turbo CTS-Vsport which does 60-0 in 107ft.

 

[Socalstinga]

Interesting and thanks for the info. That may be true for some of their rotors, but the Premium Sport series specifically is a higher grade cast iron(3500 vs 3000) than R1 offers and don’t believe they have any with the e-coating on the hubs & within the vents like the Cquence top of the line version offers.

I don't know specifically what the e-coating is, but my hub has a coating as well as within the vents. To be honest, a lot of companies go to one manufacturer to get the "base" product and then do their own thing with it. So it's not too uncommon, but again, I don't know how far up the product chain this goes.