Anybody taken their Stinger to the track (not drag strip)?

[Chucky]

If you're NEW I would only make sure to do as they told you - new brake fluid and Snell 2010 helmet. If the track bug bites you, seek out a shop that is known for setting up track cars and work with them to get your setup right...I already seen at least one post on here giving you semi-misleading advice on mods for the track.

For me, at a minimum for a daily driver / track day car I would do the following:
1. Castrol SRF DOT 4 Brake Fluid
2. Upgraded Brake Pads (I haven't done enough research to tell you which I would go with but something better than the stock pads, don't be afraid of dust we here in the U.S. are generally adverse to dusty pads which makes manufacturers equip our cars with pads that have lower braking performance because of customer complaints)
3. Upgraded Tires (at a minimum Michelin Pilot Sport 4S not the ones that our cars come with)
4. Street/Track Alignment done by a real racing shop...something not so aggressive to kill the tires but more aggressive than the factory setup.

Those are standard things I do with any car I intend to track...mods after that would be up to you and your racing shop.

Thanks, I've got everything except the high performance brake fluid and helmet. I found a shop that does a lot of work on track cars they are the ones who installed my Eibach sways and Cquence rotors. They did not mention anything about a special alignment, I will have to ask about that.

 

[bpang1]

I honestly could not agree more with you. While I do take my car to the track, I am lowered with a CAI. I understand that the suspension travel is slightly out of the designed range of motion, I'm fine with that. 98% of my driving is street, and it looks better. Though may not perform better.

The CAI is for sound, honestly I strongly dislike CAI but the sound is addicting. I usually refer to them as HAI, hot air intakes.

I did not buy my car for track use, however it's a lot of fun to take to the track due to the looks and uniqueness of saying "Yea, that's my KIA that was out there"

Yeah not all mods are about outright going faster...somethings like an intake can be just for pure aural enjoyment! Nothing wrong with that.

In terms of suspension travel lost from a lowering spring, it's pretty complicated. If you are only going to track a car, a short suspension travel is ideal as long as you have the associated alignment and upgraded shocks to handle that. On the street, losing like 10% to 20% of your travel can actually have a bad effect especially if at full compression you go out of the desired camber. I think I am butchering that explanation so I am gonna stop there.

Thanks, I've got everything except the high performance brake fluid and helmet. I found a shop that does a lot of work on track cars they are the ones who installed my Eibach sways and Cquence rotors. They did not mention anything about a special alignment, I will have to ask about that.

It's amazing how a performance alignment will really wake up the handling of a car. I've had it done three times now and every time you can tell the difference especially at turn-in and stability at mid-corner.

My one piece of advice is that once they set it, write those specs down so you can have a shop bring you back to those specs if you move or are otherwise not able to go back to the race shop.

 

[cornpop1]

Hmm good points @bpang1 ! I have a Base GT, with non adjustable dampers. Through tight turns you get a boaty feeling for sure. I assumed lowering it would tighten up this feel and make it feel more planted or at least inspire more confidence. Are you saying in the grand scheme of things, it may just be best to leave it stock? As far as tire width, I also thought our cars could benefit from having wider tires, assuming it becomes easier to grip and accelerate out of a corner with all the power we have. I am not saying slap the fattest tire, I just always thought having a little more rubber is better (Kept telling that to myself since I wanted to buy new wheels )

This was a cool read too off google:
Do wider tyres give you more grip 225 vs 255 vs 285 wide tyres - Tyre Reviews

I still believe our cars are on the heavier side than the majority of cars on the track. I just listed the few that were harder to keep up with. Just here trying to learn things too, wasn't trying to offer incorrect advice. Long story short though, for being a 5-person hatchback, its a amazing how the Stinger can keep up/and or outperform other sports cars.

 

[bpang1]

I'm in a "Base" GT as well...it's the most driver-focused one.

Well I think you are in essence right that our cars don't have enough tire...225s and 255s seems minimal for anything at this size on track. What I am writing is that people shouldn't just slap the widest possible tire that they can fit without testing or at least waiting for some of the race shops to try it first and get their recommendations. There is a point where you can go too wide on a wheel and the sidewalls can't keep up with it.

I think my deeper point is that just throwing mods at a car won't always equal faster times on track. There are a shit-ton of variables at play and sometimes one poorly thought out mod can upset the entire package no matter what the company selling it to you wants you to believe.

Here is an article I like: Do Larger Wheels and Tires Really Make You Faster? | Articles | Grassroots Motorsports

 

[Hapa88]

I haven’t tracked my Stinger yet (only has 550 miles on it) but I track my other cars fairly regularly. I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 and a 1995 Acura NSX.

What others have said are pretty true but if this is your first time going, just bring your car and enjoy it. Since you’ll be in the beginner group you probably won’t ever get to the point where you’ll get fast enough and long enough to boil fluids. Though if you do get the chance, step up to DOT 4 fluid. I use ATE Typ 200 because it’s relatively inexpensive and has a high boiling point. I’ve gone over a year without changing the fluid and haven’t had any issues boiling. Keep in mind the brake system is completely closed and pressurized, so it’s unlikely that any water would get into it.

Next for helmets. Yes, get a Snell rated helmet of at least 2010 but preferably 2015. What others have forgotten to say is that it should be a SA rated helmet (not M). DO NOT USE MOTORCYCLE HELMETS!!!

Otherwise just go out there and have fun. Don’t get overly cocky and learn as much as you can. Take it slow, build up confidence at a comfortable pace. Watch your tire pressures closely, especially after each session. You’ll be fine.

After you get a taste for everything, you’ll start learning weak points in the car but keep in mind that seat time (experience) will always trump performance mods. The fact that I can run laps around novices in Dodge Hellcats, Mustang 5.0s, Corvette C7Rs and Nissan GTRs in my Mazdaspeed 3 should tell you something.

 

[Chucky]

I haven’t tracked my Stinger yet (only has 550 miles on it) but I track my other cars fairly regularly. I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 and a 1995 Acura NSX.

What others have said are pretty true but if this is your first time going, just bring your car and enjoy it. Since you’ll be in the beginner group you probably won’t ever get to the point where you’ll get fast enough and long enough to boil fluids. Though if you do get the chance, step up to DOT 4 fluid. I use ATE Typ 200 because it’s relatively inexpensive and has a high boiling point. I’ve gone over a year without changing the fluid and haven’t had any issues boiling. Keep in mind the brake system is completely closed and pressurized, so it’s unlikely that any water would get into it.

Next for helmets. Yes, get a Snell rated helmet of at least 2010 but preferably 2015. What others have forgotten to say is that it should be a SA rated helmet (not M). DO NOT USE MOTORCYCLE HELMETS!!!

Otherwise just go out there and have fun. Don’t get overly cocky and learn as much as you can. Take it slow, build up confidence at a comfortable pace. Watch your tire pressures closely, especially after each session. You’ll be fine.

After you get a taste for everything, you’ll start learning weak points in the car but keep in mind that seat time (experience) will always trump performance mods. The fact that I can run laps around novices in Dodge Hellcats, Mustang 5.0s, Corvette C7Rs and Nissan GTRs in my Mazdaspeed 3 should tell you something.

Thanks for the additional information Hapa88

 

[MerlintheMad]

DO NOT USE MOTORCYCLE HELMETS!!!

Is there a choice? Will "they" let you if you want to? And why not use a "motorcycle" helmet?

 

[cornpop1]

Is there a choice? Will "they" let you if you want to? And why not use a "motorcycle" helmet?

via http://smf.org/helmetfaq#aSAMKdiff

"
What are the differences between the SA, M and K standards?
The SA standard was designed for competitive auto racing while the M standard was for motorcycling and other motorsports. The K standard was released to accommodate helmets used in karting. There are three major differences between them:

1. The SA standard requires flammability test while the M and K standards do not.
2. The SA and K standards allow for a narrower visual field than the M standard (Some SA and K certified helmets may not be street legal).
3. The SA and K standards include a rollbar multi-impact test while the M standard does not."

From what I experienced, they don't give you a rigorous check of what kind of helmet you have. You do need sign papers acknowledging the rules and agreeing to the track's safety agreements. Usually, the prices of the helmets are not far apart enough to justify not following their standards. Best to be safe than sorry.

 

[MerlintheMad]

• The SA standard requires flammability test while the M and K standards do not.

• The SA and K standards allow for a narrower visual field than the M standard (Some SA and K certified helmets may not be street legal).

• The SA and K standards include a rollbar multi-impact test while the M standard does not."

Thanks.
I see that roll bar is a non applicable issue with a street Stinger. Wider field of view would actually appeal to me. Fire? Hmm. If I am going to crash and burn when introducing myself to track driving, I'm not a candidate for this in the first place. I'm sure that I will take it very easy, in the event that I do get on a track. The helmet will be compliance only.

 

[Angus Law]

How about the engine oil temp ?
How many lap can run in normal temp?(below 120c)

 

[Hapa88]

How about the engine oil temp ?
How many lap can run in normal temp?(below 120c)

If you're running in the beginning group, there should be nothing to worry about. I've causally tracking for 20 years and have only overheated my NSX once, but it was the end of a session and ambient temperature was about 105 F (40.5 C). Luckily the car has sensors to protect itself built in. In my 1995 NSX, it drops the redline. In the Stinger, it'll probably go to limp mode or something.

 

[Hapa88]

Thanks.
I see that roll bar is a non applicable issue with a street Stinger. Wider field of view would actually appeal to me. Fire? Hmm. If I am going to crash and burn when introducing myself to track driving, I'm not a candidate for this in the first place. I'm sure that I will take it very easy, in the event that I do get on a track. The helmet will be compliance only.

You never know what will happen or could happen on the track. No one goes to the track expecting to crash or getting involved in an accident but they occur all the time. Best bet is to have the proper equipment, even if you need to just borrow it IMHO.

For a helmet, you'd probably want the narrowest field of view as possible. If you have a wider FOV, then you have less helmet to protect you. On the track you don't need a wide FOV because there's no intersections to worry about. The helmet is not just for compliance, it's for your safety.

 

[Ozstung]

I took my stinger to the track

 

[G-766672]

dose any one have a good alignment spec setup for the track that they can share?

 

[Volfy]

dose any one have a good alignment spec setup for the track that they can share?

Most important thing is to increase the front camber to at least -2.0deg. With Stinger/G70, the only way to do this is with coilovers kits that include a top camber plate. Stock is non-adjustable and even with Eibach lowering springs, ours won't go higher than about -1.0deg. It's difficult to tune the understeer out without changing front camber. Stiffening the rear anti-roll bar vs. the front helped, but even then neither our Stinger or G70 would steer as neutral at the limits as we would like.

We just swapped to Riaction coilovers before going to Eagle Canyon Raceway last month. We had the front camber set at -2.0deg and the difference is amazing. I'm sure being able to stiffen damping help the most, but that affects mostly initial understeer, whereas camber helps with both initial and especially terminal understeer. The car is finally where we would like it to be. For pure track alignment, I would probably push front camber even more to -2.5 or maybe even try 3.0deg next track event. However, these are our daily drivers as well, so -2.0deg front is a good compromise without tearing up the inside tread too quickly on our street tires.

August in Texas was so miserably hot, I completely forgot to take pics, until at the end of event when we were swapping back to street tires. I will see if I can do some screen grabs from the GoPro vids. ECR is a very nice track that just recently got renovated. New track surface is fantastic and nice elevation changes.

 

[Volfy]

Next for helmets. Yes, get a Snell rated helmet of at least 2010 but preferably 2015. What others have forgotten to say is that it should be a SA rated helmet (not M). DO NOT USE MOTORCYCLE HELMETS!!!

1. The SA standard requires flammability test while the M and K standards do not.
2. The SA and K standards allow for a narrower visual field than the M standard (Some SA and K certified helmets may not be street legal).
3. The SA and K standards include a rollbar multi-impact test while the M standard does not."

To each his own. My son and I both ride, so there is no reason NOT to use the Snell M2020 motorcycle helmets we already have. SCCA allows Snell M helmets for Solo, Rallycross and Time Trials. https://cdn.connectsites.net/user_f...2_Helmet-Certs_SoloRally_final.pdf?1642691023

The flammability test is pointless unless you get serious enough, in which case you'll be kitted up with proper gear from head to toe. So, unless you are sporting full flame suits, gloves and shoes, insisting on an SA lid for the flammability criteria while wearing T-shirt and jeans is kinda... uh, silly.

As for the rollbar test criteria... We don't have roll bar/cage in our Stinger/G70. For those of you committed enough to install rollbar/cage in your Stinger, more power to you.

And the narrow view port thing... I just don't see as being that big a deal. The difference isn't large enough (no pun intended) to matter one way or another. I've seen quite a few motorcycles helmets that had sustained some pretty bad offs, including my own. The viewport size never appeared to be an issue. As long as it is a full face helmet, the overall quality of the helmet, the materials it's made off, and the methods of construction, matter a whole lot more than the little sticker on the inside.

At every SCCA event we've been to recently, they always have a bunch of open-face loaner helmets available, in case you insist on an SA lid over your noggins. I'll keep my M2020 on, thank you.

 

[turboAWD]

Most important thing is to increase the front camber to at least -2.0deg. With Stinger/G70, the only way to do this is with coilovers kits that include a top camber plate. Stock is non-adjustable and even with Eibach lowering springs, ours won't go higher than about -1.0deg. It's difficult to tune the understeer out without changing front camber. Stiffening the rear anti-roll bar vs. the front helped, but even then neither our Stinger or G70 would steer as neutral at the limits as we would like.

We just swapped to Riaction coilovers before going to Eagle Canyon Raceway last month. We had the front camber set at -2.0deg and the difference is amazing. I'm sure being able to stiffen damping help the most, but that affects mostly initial understeer, whereas camber helps with both initial and especially terminal understeer. The car is finally where we would like it to be. For pure track alignment, I would probably push front camber even more to -2.5 or maybe even try 3.0deg next track event. However, these are our daily drivers as well, so -2.0deg front is a good compromise without tearing up the inside tread too quickly on our street tires.

August in Texas was so miserably hot, I completely forgot to take pics, until at the end of event when we were swapping back to street tires. I will see if I can do some screen grabs from the GoPro vids. ECR is a very nice track that just recently got renovated. New track surface is fantastic and nice elevation changes.
View attachment 82250

Did you have the electronic dampers originally?

 

[Volfy]

Did you have the electronic dampers originally?

Nope. Our G70 is the 6MT version that came with sport-tuned suspension, but it is still underdamped for track work. Stinger is worse. On a full-on track day with long 20-25min session, the shocks heat up, oil inside thins, and the wallowing gets even more pronounced.

I'm sure having the electronic shocks would've helped, at least to some degree. For one thing, it doesn't allow you to adjust damping independently front to rear. Maybe with the Mando ECS10? Dunno.

 

[turboAWD]

Nope. Our G70 is the 6MT version that came with sport-tuned suspension, but it is still underdamped for track work. Stinger is worse. On a full-on track day with long 20-25min session, the shocks heat up, oil inside thins, and the wallowing gets even more pronounced.

I'm sure having the electronic shocks would've helped, at least to some degree. For one thing, it doesn't allow you to adjust damping independently front to rear. Maybe with the Mando ECS10? Dunno.

Yeah, I have the ecs 10 and use that to just basically set them to "really stiff". I'm still new at this, so I don't have much of a clue what settings would work better, how to fine tune it, etc.

 

[Volfy]

Yeah, I have the ecs 10 and use that to just basically set them to "really stiff". I'm still new at this, so I don't have much of a clue what settings would work better, how to fine tune it, etc.

For sure, that's what I'd do if I had the ECS10. For a daily driver that very occasionally tracks, the e-shocks are certainly a worthy upgrade compared to standard OEM shocks.

Still, beyond the ability to adjust damping incrementally to track roughness and to fine-tune the car's cornering attitude, there are other downside to the stock ECS. First, the OEM steel shock tubes don't dissipate heat quite as well as the aluminum bodies of aftermarket coilovers. Second, OEM shocks are not rebuildable AFAIK and relatively costly to replace, especially the ECS ones. The shock oils, like engine oil, ATF, and gear oil, do degrade over time, and that'll affect their performance over time, especially if you work them hard.