How to get the lowest price! Follow these steps...

[StingerNick]

I have followed these steps for my last 5 Kia’s and it works every time. I recently sent this information to help someone on Reddits’ r/kiastinger page.

This is how I do it...

I contacted 5-7 Kia dealers in my area via email. The game is to find the dollar amount that each of the dealers are willing to walk away from the deal.

You must use the exact same MSRP when price shopping the different dealers. There will be a magic number/dollar amount that all the dealer all be at for their rock bottom deal. All dealers have the same deals and rebates. There is no such thing as “we give the lowest price”. Also, who gives a crap if they say they sell the most vehicles in your state. That means nothing.

Buying: When all the dealers are about $100-$200 apart in price, then that’s the true bottom dollar deal.

Leasing: When all the dealers about $10-20 apart from each other’s monthly price, then that’s the true bottom dollar deal.

For the example I’ll use a MSRP of $49,159. Depending on the options, most dealers will have the same car’s MSRP, or the price with be a bit more/less because of a cargo cover or something like that.

If you are buying you want to ask what the “OTD” Out The Door price will be. You must say exactly like this, “What is your OTD price on the Stinger with MSRP of $49,159 (or use the stock/VIN number)...including ALL tax, fees, no trade-in, zero money down.”

If you are leasing you have to include more specific information. “What is your Monthly OTD price on your Stinger with MSRP of $49,159... for a 36 month lease, 12k miles, including ALL tax, fees, no trade-in, zero money down.”

You can put money down later or include a trade-in after you have agreed on the price, but DO NOT include that when you are price shopping!

Car dealers are literally the worst at follow-up emails. If you email 10 dealers, you’ll hear back from 5 or 6. When they do reply, they will have wrong info (probably on a different car), along with horrible spelling and grammar.

Now you have to pit the dealers against each other. Do this over the phone or email only. Do NOT go into the dealer even if they say they won’t give you a price over the phone. Tell them the other dealers price and ask them to beat it. Then go back to the other dealer and ask them to beat it. Some may ask you to forward the other dealers email to prove the price they sent. All the dealers dislike each other in the first place.

When you have your super rock bottom price...let’s say a lease for $650 a month, say on the phone, “I’ll come in right now if you can do $600.” They will be pissed and have to go talk to their manager. They will call you back and say they can do $640. Then you say, I’m about to head out for the day, but I’ll come in right now for $615, but not a penny higher. They he’ll go back the manager and he’ll then say. We can do it for $625. Then you say, “It’s a deal at $620!...let’s do it, I’ll head right over now.” At this point they are fed up with you and will agree to your price because they don’t want to lose the deal over $5, (which is really $180 over 36 months).

Good luck!

 

[flycaster]

Well done, Nick.

 

[qbmorgan]

Thanks for the Info Nick. This will be a very helpful step for when i buy my stinger in October.

 

[StingerNick]

Thanks for the Info Nick. This will be a very helpful step for when i buy my stinger in October.

Gald it will help you out. I used to work in the Internet Sales department at the beginning of the dealership online world. I first worked for a Ford dealership, then setup a entire Internet dept for an Acura dealer group. I learned that car salesman are typically not computer people or very organized, which is why they are so bad at responding to email. We usually had a specific chosen few salespeople that received any online quotes. If you send out a quote from a dealer site like Ford.com, the quote will be send to all the dealers in your area, which is why your phone will be ringing like crazy. The online tool that we used for the website, leads, auto-email, reminders was crazy expensive at the time...so online leads were treated like gold.

 

[Lawrence Williams]

StingerNick.....how would a car listed as preowned be handled? Same process or what?

 

[StingerNick]

StingerNick.....how would a car listed as preowned be handled? Same process or what?

That’s a little different because you don’t have another car to exactly compare against at another dealer. So a lot of times it’s just one on one with that dealer. You can always compare against KBB or a similar car at another dealership, but dealers make the money on used cars and of course the service department.

The trick is to find out how much they own the car for. That price is super secret. Only the managers know that info. They keep it hidden from the salespeople so they won’t drop the price to get the customer more likely to buy. It starts messing with the salespersons mind when they know the number.

The salesperson also wants to get maximum profit on the car because the salesperson is usually paid 25% of the profit on the car. So if you see a huge smile on their face, it probably means you paid a lot more then they owned it for. If they don’t make anything or lose money on the sales, the salesperson is usually paid a flat amount (called a mini-deal) of $100-$150.

I will tell you that working at a dealership is a black hole. They work 8-12 hour days, 5 days a week, plus open to close EVERY Saturday. And one Sunday a month if open on Sundays. People work there for years, leave and then only have sales skills. Some people make zero money the entire week, then actually owe the dealership money because the dealer fronts them money each week (called a draw).
Usually the dealership fires the person if they are in the red for more than a couple weeks. Super high turnover, and it’s dog eat dog there, and people go crazy when someone supposedly steals their customer.

When I was at a Kia dealership leasing a Niro last month, a salesperson said that someone stole us from them. Talk about making you feel uncomfortable. Working there is like working in a fraternity or something with out all the partying. Glad those days are long long gone!

That’s just an understanding of how bad they want to know that secret number and make the sale...and a mini rant from me

 

[Dr_jitsu]

Certain cars have more incentives than others dependent upon a number of variables. You need to find out those magic numbers. There are certain things I had to have and certain things that I could flex over. White was not my top color, but it is so easy to keep clean it was on the table. Red interior was desired but not required (although I am more and more enamored with it every day). Finally, the last few hundred dollars are not that important, as long as I was close to a rock bottom price.

I went in thinking that my final price was $41k, but we agreed on $41.5. Not going to walk over $500, and I am glad I did not.

The biggest thing is, in order to get the best deal your are going to have to work. I spent a good 4-5 hours a day for a full week to get my car. Considering that many paid 7-8 grand more than I did made the effort worth it.

 

[Ruturaj]

Good advice, depends on the dealers and area. To me no one was selling me 2018 below MSRP in October of last year, 2019 had already started showing up. I tried dealers in VA, they sucked at replying to emails and wanted me to come in. Only one dealer near me offered me 4k off on GT2 AWD in December which seemed like a great deal to me (still do).

I am not sure may be it was just me, few guys posted here that they got better deal than I asking for at same dealer for same car.

 

[StingerNick]

Certain cars have more incentives than others dependent upon a number of variables. You need to find out those magic numbers. There are certain things I had to have and certain things that I could flex over. White was not my top color, but it is so easy to keep clean it was on the table. Red interior was desired but not required (although I am more and more enamored with it every day). Finally, the last few hundred dollars are not that important, as long as I was close to a rock bottom price.

I went in thinking that my final price was $41k, but we agreed on $41.5. Not going to walk over $500, and I am glad I did not.

The biggest thing is, in order to get the best deal your are going to have to work. I spent a good 4-5 hours a day for a full week to get my car. Considering that many paid 7-8 grand more than I did made the effort worth it.

Yes, I totally agree. It’s a temporary second job.

 

[patnic]

I have followed these steps for my last 5 Kia’s and it works every time. I recently sent this information to help someone on Reddits’ r/kiastinger page.

This is how I do it...

I contacted 5-7 Kia dealers in my area via email. The game is to find the dollar amount that each of the dealers are willing to walk away from the deal.

You must use the exact same MSRP when price shopping the different dealers. There will be a magic number/dollar amount that all the dealer all be at for their rock bottom deal. All dealers have the same deals and rebates. There is no such thing as “we give the lowest price”. Also, who gives a crap if they say they sell the most vehicles in your state. That means nothing.

Buying: When all the dealers are about $100-$200 apart in price, then that’s the true bottom dollar deal.

Leasing: When all the dealers about $10-20 apart from each other’s monthly price, then that’s the true bottom dollar deal.

For the example I’ll use a MSRP of $49,159. Depending on the options, most dealers will have the same car’s MSRP, or the price with be a bit more/less because of a cargo cover or something like that.

If you are buying you want to ask what the “OTD” Out The Door price will be. You must say exactly like this, “What is your OTD price on the Stinger with MSRP of $49,159 (or use the stock/VIN number)...including ALL tax, fees, no trade-in, zero money down.”

If you are leasing you have to include more specific information. “What is your Monthly OTD price on your Stinger with MSRP of $49,159... for a 36 month lease, 12k miles, including ALL tax, fees, no trade-in, zero money down.”

You can put money down later or include a trade-in after you have agreed on the price, but DO NOT include that when you are price shopping!

Car dealers are literally the worst at follow-up emails. If you email 10 dealers, you’ll hear back from 5 or 6. When they do reply, they will have wrong info (probably on a different car), along with horrible spelling and grammar.

Now you have to pit the dealers against each other. Do this over the phone or email only. Do NOT go into the dealer even if they say they won’t give you a price over the phone. Tell them the other dealers price and ask them to beat it. Then go back to the other dealer and ask them to beat it. Some may ask you to forward the other dealers email to prove the price they sent. All the dealers dislike each other in the first place.

When you have your super rock bottom price...let’s say a lease for $650 a month, say on the phone, “I’ll come in right now if you can do $600.” They will be pissed and have to go talk to their manager. They will call you back and say they can do $640. Then you say, I’m about to head out for the day, but I’ll come in right now for $615, but not a penny higher. They he’ll go back the manager and he’ll then say. We can do it for $625. Then you say, “It’s a deal at $620!...let’s do it, I’ll head right over now.” At this point they are fed up with you and will agree to your price because they don’t want to lose the deal over $5, (which is really $180 over 36 months).

Good luck!