What are the different mappings?

[Crisis]

Thanks for the info. Did you do any dyno runs at higher RPM to see what type of peak HP you were getting?

 

[Not Here Anymore]

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I am getter a Borla Cat back , put on this Thursday coming instead and , taking off my muffler delete , trying to lesson the drone on the muffler delete! Later on I will get on a Dyno again see if I can get the number with a higher RPM RANGE

 

[Crisis]

Thanks, that would be great to see the HP #s on a std HP vs. RPM dyno chart. Tough to judge the HP on the chart you'd posted vs speed, but the HP curve looks much different than on most dyno charts where the Stinger HO typically peaks in the 5500 - 6000 RPM range. I'll be really curious to see what type of HP#s you put up with the Racechip and your other mods.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

Thanks, that would be great to see the HP #s on a std HP vs. RPM dyno chart. Tough to judge the HP on the chart you'd posted vs speed, but the HP curve looks much different than on most dyno charts where the Stinger HO typically peaks in the 5500 - 6000 RPM range. I'll be really curious to see what type of HP#s you put up with the Racechip and your other mods.

Crisis, I will try to get another Dyno run done when I get the few mods I want finished and working correctly

 

[StungBlueGT2]

View attachment 21387

Amazing TQ results! But why don’t the the HP gains seem to add up? Did Classified Motorsports explain why you gain 130wtq, but only add a max of 20whp?

Most Stingers produce about 320-330whp stock, and 400whp+ with a chip so I assume it’s something to do with the MPH vs RPM dyno results.

Look forward to your retest and happy tuning.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

Amazing TQ results! But why don’t the the HP gains seem to add up? Did Classified Motorsports explain why you gain 130wtq, but only add a max of 20whp?

Most Stingers produce about 320-330whp stock, and 400whp+ with a chip so I assume it’s something to do with the MPH vs RPM dyno results.

Look forward to your retest and happy tuning.

Looks like on March 28 or 29th , I should have my little Stinger GT AWD with upgrades installed hopefully but ,still thinking on adding a intercooler as well to finish off the modes ,then a run it on the Dyno one more time ! I did a Launch last night ,and it didn't seem all that impressive on the Butt dyno lol, so see what happens at the end of next week

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Looks like on March 28 or 29th , I should have my little Stinger GT AWD with upgrades installed hopefully but ,still thinking on adding a intercooler as well to finish off the modes ,then a run it on the Dyno one more time ! I did a Launch last night ,and it didn't seem all that impressive on the Butt dyno lol, so see what happens at the end of next week

I look forward to your results with extra mods and think the intercooler should help too. Again, just make sure they do a RPM dyno this time and few 5th gear(1:1 ratio) pulls through the entire RPM range. That should get you more accurate WHP results and hopefully show the 400whp+ you should be producing.

However, your last comment makes me question how well the RaceChip(RC) is working. Are you saying your car doesnt feel that much faster than stock even with the chip? There should already be a significant difference since your biggest gains will come from the chip.

Everyone I know with a chip(JB4, Lap3, RC) says its a night a day difference and should pull like a freight train with all the extra power. If you cant feel a huge increase in power already your RC may not be working 100%.

Hopefully everything is ok and your "Butt dyno" just needs to be re-calibrated! Lol Good luck with everything and look forward to your updates.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I look forward to your results with extra mods and think the intercooler should help too. Again, just make sure they do a RPM dyno this time and few 5th gear(1:1 ratio) pulls through the entire RPM range. That should get you more accurate WHP results and hopefully show the 400whp+ you should be producing.

However, your last comment makes me question how well the RaceChip(RC) is working. Are you saying your car doesnt feel that much faster than stock even with the chip? There should already be a significant difference since your biggest gains will come from the chip.

Everyone I know with a chip(JB4, Lap3, RC) says its a night a day difference and should pull like a freight train with all the extra power. If you cant feel a huge increase in power already your RC may not be working 100%.

Hopefully everything is ok and your "Butt dyno" just needs to be re-calibrated! Lol Good luck with everything and look forward to your updates.

I was thinking of the last new update for the RS map 6 update ,, that I never felt much of Butt difference , make no mistake , that is a huge difference from stock pull to the now RS chip pull, but I had my map 6 re mapped for my upgrades but the Dyno com ,, but the butt Dyno didn't notice much of a chance! I have order a Dragy device ,, so then I have something that I can reference some 0-60 pulls and 1/4 miles pulls ! just waiting for my pipes to get here with in the next week or so

 

[Not Here Anymore]

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I guess this will be my best run with the upgrades that I now have ,, still makes it a 12sec car lol

 

[Not Here Anymore]

DYno set up for this coming Thursday ,, but I may cancel until I get the DPs in and out on !

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I look forward to your results with extra mods and think the intercooler should help too. Again, just make sure they do a RPM dyno this time and few 5th gear(1:1 ratio) pulls through the entire RPM range. That should get you more accurate WHP results and hopefully show the 400whp+ you should be producing.

However, your last comment makes me question how well the RaceChip(RC) is working. Are you saying your car doesnt feel that much faster than stock even with the chip? There should already be a significant difference since your biggest gains will come from the chip.

Everyone I know with a chip(JB4, Lap3, RC) says its a night a day difference and should pull like a freight train with all the extra power. If you cant feel a huge increase in power already your RC may not be working 100%.

Hopefully everything is ok and your "Butt dyno" just needs to be re-calibrated! Lol Good luck with everything and look forward to your updates.

Yes Stung Blue GT , I am researching the JB4 setups ,, may are getting very good times using the JB4 or Lap 3 chips !

 

[StungBlueGT2]

View attachment 22014

I guess this will be my best run with the upgrades that I now have ,, still makes it a 12sec car lol

Nice run and congrats on the 12s.

Still seems like the RC and intakes should have helped a little more, especially if you got a good AWD 1.8-1.9 60ft. Bryan2.0 AWD ran a 12.35 with JB4 and intakes and that was with a decent 1.96 60ft. I would think you should be able to get mid-low 12s with the RC unless your in higher elevations.

Keep trying things to improve and show some 60ft & trap speeds for better comparisons to others on here.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

yes indeed I was hoping the car would have been quicker ,I am starting to think my Dyno number s were closer than I thought ! Hp was 337 run 2 ,run 3 only 320 whp

 

[Regs120]

Intake, RS, and Sparks getting close to mid 12's? Impressive!

 

[Not Here Anymore]

Nice run and congrats on the 12s.

Still seems like the RC and intakes should have helped a little more, especially if you got a good AWD 1.8-1.9 60ft. Bryan2.0 AWD ran a 12.35 with JB4 and intakes and that was with a decent 1.96 60ft. I would think you should be able to get mid-low 12s with the RC unless your in higher elevations.

Keep trying things to improve and show some 60ft & trap speeds for better comparisons to others on here.

Yes I am at 355 meters, above sea level ,,if that could makes a little difference ,,

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Yes I am at 355 meters, above sea level ,,if that could makes a little difference ,,

Yes the higher altitude and different air density will make a difference. I know there are ways to compare to what it would be at sea level and may worth a google search.

 

[mbworldz]

I got one question though.
I have the GTS but no app feature.
Is there a way I can adjust the map settings under "Race" mode. To fine tune from 1 to 7 in Race mode by using the GTS box itself?

The goal of the maps is to adapt parameters such as boost and their dependency on other parameters such as rpm. Because of the variation of standard factory models (e.g. it is normal that your car has 5-10% more or less hp than claimed by the manufacturer) the best fitting map could be different from vehicle to vehicle. Fuel quality also plays an important role. The lower the fuel quality, the lower should be the mapping. E.g. you should not use mapping 6 or 7 of the GTS Black if you don't have 93-98 octane fuel. It is not possible to provide a recommendation that is set in stone, because the perfect map depends on so many factors besides fuel quality (manufacturing tolerances, maintenance condition if the car is older, climate, altitude, further modifications such as air filter, intake and exhaust, ...). Furthermore, it depends on the mood and taste of the driver.

Difference between the mappings of the RS, GTS and GTS Black
The highest mapping (6 or 7 or Race) reflects the maximum performance increase of the product that is possible (please check the maximum power of each product in our online shop).

Mappings, if you do not have the app feature:
You have different mappings 0 to 7 (GTS and GTS Black).

0 = Stock
1 = Least aggressive Mapping
7 = Most aggressive Mapping​

As a rule of thumb, you can say the higher the map setting the higher the hp and torque output of your car. E.g. in Germany people often use map 3 to 5 for every day driving (especially for the higher torque which enables you to save fuel as well as faster and saver overtaking). For racing or even a joyride they switch to map 7.

NOTICE: The settings 6 and 7 are designed for octane 93-98. Do not use them with 91 octane.

If you do have the app:
If you got the app feature you don't have 7 different mappings, however you can select between the stages Efficiency, Sport and Race ("E", "S" and "R"). Furthermore, you can turn the tuning off ("0") and select a warm-up timer. For further adaptions please contact our customer service.

If you have the app, you only have the three driving modes. The reason is that we made the experience that people like a "tidy" app interface with not too many buttons. Furthermore, you can always contact our customer service, to get the settings changed. This means you actually have more than 3 or 7 options. For the non-app version, 7 settings are beneficial, because you can't get them changed without sending the product to us.

Other than that, the settings are quite similar. An example would be comparing "Race" to 7 (or 6 in case of the RS), "Sport" to 5 or "Efficiency" to 3 (this is just an example).

NOTICE: The setting "Race" is designed for octane 93-98. Do not use it with 91 octane.

Does the app cost money?
The app itself is free. There is no subscription fee. We do not charge you for using our customer service e.g. to get your settings adapted. I recommend contacting us via email, because phone calls will cost you the normal landline and mobile phone charges.

Though, your RaceChip must be compatible. This means you must select the App feature on top to your product. Only if you selected the App feature, the RaceChip will contain necessary hardware such as a Bluetooth chip to be able to communicate with your smartphone. The App feature costs $50.

The stinger has its own driving modes - comfort, sport, eco, custom that the driver can choose from. How does the chip interact with them or does it matter?
They work perfectly well together. You can still use all driving modes when you have the performance upgrade.

The different driving modes of the Stinger change different things (such as throttle response and shifting conditions), but not the real power output. They can be compared to our throttle tuning XLR, which shortens the response time of the car. So, if your car is not responsive enough, please test the RaceChip XLR.

 

[mbworldz]

I do have a question though.
For my GTS box. (I don't have the bluetooth app). Just the plain GTS box.
How do I adjust the map settings from 1-7 under "RACE" mode from the GTS box, I see the "+" and "-".

The goal of the maps is to adapt parameters such as boost and their dependency on other parameters such as rpm. Because of the variation of standard factory models (e.g. it is normal that your car has 5-10% more or less hp than claimed by the manufacturer) the best fitting map could be different from vehicle to vehicle. Fuel quality also plays an important role. The lower the fuel quality, the lower should be the mapping. E.g. you should not use mapping 6 or 7 of the GTS Black if you don't have 93-98 octane fuel. It is not possible to provide a recommendation that is set in stone, because the perfect map depends on so many factors besides fuel quality (manufacturing tolerances, maintenance condition if the car is older, climate, altitude, further modifications such as air filter, intake and exhaust, ...). Furthermore, it depends on the mood and taste of the driver.

Difference between the mappings of the RS, GTS and GTS Black
The highest mapping (6 or 7 or Race) reflects the maximum performance increase of the product that is possible (please check the maximum power of each product in our online shop).

Mappings, if you do not have the app feature:
You have different mappings 0 to 7 (GTS and GTS Black).

0 = Stock
1 = Least aggressive Mapping
7 = Most aggressive Mapping​

As a rule of thumb, you can say the higher the map setting the higher the hp and torque output of your car. E.g. in Germany people often use map 3 to 5 for every day driving (especially for the higher torque which enables you to save fuel as well as faster and saver overtaking). For racing or even a joyride they switch to map 7.

NOTICE: The settings 6 and 7 are designed for octane 93-98. Do not use them with 91 octane.

If you do have the app:
If you got the app feature you don't have 7 different mappings, however you can select between the stages Efficiency, Sport and Race ("E", "S" and "R"). Furthermore, you can turn the tuning off ("0") and select a warm-up timer. For further adaptions please contact our customer service.

If you have the app, you only have the three driving modes. The reason is that we made the experience that people like a "tidy" app interface with not too many buttons. Furthermore, you can always contact our customer service, to get the settings changed. This means you actually have more than 3 or 7 options. For the non-app version, 7 settings are beneficial, because you can't get them changed without sending the product to us.

Other than that, the settings are quite similar. An example would be comparing "Race" to 7 (or 6 in case of the RS), "Sport" to 5 or "Efficiency" to 3 (this is just an example).

NOTICE: The setting "Race" is designed for octane 93-98. Do not use it with 91 octane.

Does the app cost money?
The app itself is free. There is no subscription fee. We do not charge you for using our customer service e.g. to get your settings adapted. I recommend contacting us via email, because phone calls will cost you the normal landline and mobile phone charges.

Though, your RaceChip must be compatible. This means you must select the App feature on top to your product. Only if you selected the App feature, the RaceChip will contain necessary hardware such as a Bluetooth chip to be able to communicate with your smartphone. The App feature costs $50.

The stinger has its own driving modes - comfort, sport, eco, custom that the driver can choose from. How does the chip interact with them or does it matter?
They work perfectly well together. You can still use all driving modes when you have the performance upgrade.

The different driving modes of the Stinger change different things (such as throttle response and shifting conditions), but not the real power output. They can be compared to our throttle tuning XLR, which shortens the response time of the car. So, if your car is not responsive enough, please test the RaceChip XLR.