Cold air intake dyno runs

[Adamdan]

I must say I’m a little sceptical of all the dyno results of all in intake systems for the stinger. The stock intake looks like a good design to me, I’m no engineer but the oem it’s a true cold air system that’s sealed off from the engine bay. It looks like all the systems do is replace the factory filter with a cone filter and open up the sealed box so it can suck in more hot air from engine bay. I went the route of k&n panel filters myself but I would love to see some dyno runs of owners. Again I’m no engineer and I could be wrong about the gains company’s post for there intakes but would be nice to see some owner dyno runs.

 

[brancky3]

Sealed off design does not equal gains, especially if it does not flow very well. Sealed off intakes will help prevent heat soak which will ultimately result in less power lost after aggressive driving / hot weather. At higher boost levels the stock intake is going to be a bottleneck, but I'm sure it's more than adequate for a stock car

 

[DiabloStinger]

There are a few schools of thought on this... while moving, any intake that has an open filter will outperform this stock airbox. By how much is the argument. Most intakes, for me, are about look and a little bit of potential in air flow.

 

[Adamdan]

Sealed off design does not equal gains, especially if it does not flow very well. Sealed off intakes will help prevent heat soak which will ultimately result in less power lost after aggressive driving / hot weather. At higher boost levels the stock intake is going to be a bottleneck, but I'm sure it's more than adequate for a stock car

I have a jb4 jun downpipes and evc catback and k&n panel filters. I made 375whp on a mustang dyno on map 2. The guys at the shop said that’s around 420-430whp on a Dynojet. From the intake box it’s just a pipe so maybe the loss of flow is before the panel filter not after. I could see mayeb gaining some high rpm power but when I see a dyno chart and the cars making 25whp or more at like 1500rpm does not seem right to me. I could be totally wrong about this I don’t wanna come across as a know it all.

 

[DiabloStinger]

Those factory 'pipes' are corrugated and add some volatility to the air flowing through them. But yes, I agree, most intake numbers are quite possibly inflated due to the type of dyno used. If you are tuning and also adding exhaust modifications, an intake is a good compliment to the vehicle.

 

[brancky3]

I have a jb4 jun downpipes and evc catback and k&n panel filters. I made 375whp on a mustang dyno on map 2. The guys at the shop said that’s around 420-430whp on a Dynojet. From the intake box it’s just a pipe so maybe the loss of flow is before the panel filter not after. I could see mayeb gaining some high rpm power but when I see a dyno chart and the cars making 25whp or more at like 1500rpm does not seem right to me. I could be totally wrong about this I don’t wanna come across as a know it all.

Down low a better flowing intake may enable the turbos to spool a few hundred RPM quicker. This would show huge gains if you're actually making boost with a new intake when before you weren't. How much of that translates into the real world is debatable.

 

[Adamdan]

Down low a better flowing intake may enable the turbos to spool a few hundred RPM quicker. This would show huge gains if you're actually making boost with a new intake when before you weren't. How much of that translates into the real world is debatable.

That’s a really good point.

 

[Tonkabob]

That’s a really good point.

My JT intakes with cold air scoops dropped my 0-60 by .2 so they do work and that was against the K&N drop ins.
With drop ins, gen 1 ecu tune and catback i did 407hp on a dynojet and 12.44 1/4 mile (AWD). So with your dp the 420-430 sounds right on.
Some intakes show lowere rpm dyno gains and some dont. All show 15ish peak and 25-40 at redline. K&N is the exception but suspect they didnt give time for ecu to adjust.
I did a dyno through panels and next run open intake. Dyno was identical. Next pull open intake big power jump. Next run through panel kept the gains. Very weird.
Right after jt intake install no gains. 2 days later gains.

 

[Revvdmedia]

I counter the argument of engine bay heat on a efficient turbocharged and intercooled engine. The intakes, when the car is in motion, will receive cooler outside air from the ducts that run from the bumper to the filters. From there, consider the fact that this air (mix of cool fresh and hot engine bay) will be XX degrees, but then this air runs through a warm or hot "cold side" of a turbocharger which subsequently heats this air to XXX degrees. From there, this heated air runs through an air to air intercooler which cools the air before entering the intake manifold and then the cylinders. What I believe happens is the air might be a little warmer from the start, but I think running through the turbocharger will result in a similar temperature air before getting to the intercooler. This doesn't take into account the compression effect of the turbocharger, etc. The only factor I haven't considered is how the engine reacts to the increased initial temperature post intake filter on the AIT sensor just past the intake filter.

Summarized, I don't think open filters in the engine bay of a turbocharged and intercooled engine suffer much compared to an open filter in a normally aspirated engine. Is there any evidence to prove or disprove my theory?

 

[Socalstinga]

The issue with this stock box is where the air is coming through, not the box itself. open up the hood and take a look at where the air is coming from, that's the inefficient bottleneck. Intakes themselves don't provide the largest gains, they are a part of chain of bolt ons that together provide the gains. all of the intakes on the market pretty much do the same thing despite different claims of HP increases, design and looks are what separates them.

 

[Jonathan Lasich]

Adding the Velossa tech snorkels to any open intake should alleviate any heat soak except when stationary. They should also improve airflow to the stock airbox as well--way more cold air coming through the snorkel than through the OEM airbox opening hidden under the front bumper, I would think.

 

[oddball]

It's the snorkels in front of the core support under the bumper. Go look at the work Velossatech did for the big mouth intakes. Seriously, the snorkels under the bumper are great at hiding turbo noise but are an awful way to get air into the engine. It has to be gasping at high RPMs.

The stock design has very little space to pull air, so it has to be a major choke point over 3k rpm. There's less than an inch between the intake opening and a flat plastic panel. Seriously, drop the bumper - it only takes 10 minutes - it's really surprising. I installed the big mouth kit and it would easily suck your hand into the intake just revving in park, let alone under load!

All of the aftermarket intake kits avoid that problem. Some, like Velossatech and JT, replace the snorkels with something much more rational. All the others don't, but the filters are exposed to a much larger air area, so they'll pull air from anywhere they can get it. Some have "shields", and while that will reduce the amount of direct hot air, it's nothing like a sealed system. Regardless, an open filter will get the air it wants.

My middle of the road is the big mouth snorkels with K&N panels. Lowest cost and addresses the largest limitations.

re: heat soak, cooler air is almost always better. Starting cooler means it'll be cooler on the other side of the intercooler. While the intercooler makes the situation *less* bad, pulling in hot air still doesn't help. It's good to remember that air floating around the engine bay has mostly gone through the radiator, so it'll be anywhere from 140deg to 200deg - 100+ deg above ambient - before going through the turbo!

As a comparison point, I have the JT intercooler, K&N panels and big mouth snorkels. Otherwise stock up front. I see IATs climb about 10deg while sitting at a light. That's heat soak in the intercooler and the JT intake piping. The system is sealed to pull air from in front of the car, so it's not drinking its own bathwater. When moving the IAT tends to be 10 to 20deg above ambient, then gains another 10deg while sitting. It works back down within a couple of minutes of moving again.

All that to say - underhood heat is certainly a factor in IAT, even if the engine isn't directly breathing underhood air!

 

[Adamdan]

It's the snorkels in front of the core support under the bumper. Go look at the work Velossatech did for the big mouth intakes. Seriously, the snorkels under the bumper are great at hiding turbo noise but are an awful way to get air into the engine. It has to be gasping at high RPMs.

The stock design has very little space to pull air, so it has to be a major choke point over 3k rpm. There's less than an inch between the intake opening and a flat plastic panel. Seriously, drop the bumper - it only takes 10 minutes - it's really surprising. I installed the big mouth kit and it would easily suck your hand into the intake just revving in park, let alone under load!

All of the aftermarket intake kits avoid that problem. Some, like Velossatech and JT, replace the snorkels with something much more rational. All the others don't, but the filters are exposed to a much larger air area, so they'll pull air from anywhere they can get it. Some have "shields", and while that will reduce the amount of direct hot air, it's nothing like a sealed system. Regardless, an open filter will get the air it wants.

My middle of the road is the big mouth snorkels with K&N panels. Lowest cost and addresses the largest limitations.

re: heat soak, cooler air is almost always better. Starting cooler means it'll be cooler on the other side of the intercooler. While the intercooler makes the situation *less* bad, pulling in hot air still doesn't help. It's good to remember that air floating around the engine bay has mostly gone through the radiator, so it'll be anywhere from 140deg to 200deg - 100+ deg above ambient - before going through the turbo!

As a comparison point, I have the JT intercooler, K&N panels and big mouth snorkels. Otherwise stock up front. I see IATs climb about 10deg while sitting at a light. That's heat soak in the intercooler and the JT intake piping. The system is sealed to pull air from in front of the car, so it's not drinking its own bathwater. When moving the IAT tends to be 10 to 20deg above ambient, then gains another 10deg while sitting. It works back down within a couple of minutes of moving again.

All that to say - underhood heat is certainly a factor in IAT, even if the engine isn't directly breathing underhood air!

So your using the k&n panel filters and installed the snorkels? I’ve seen pictures of those installed but not what stock has in there to begin with. Does that change the sound at all?

 

[Terry@BMS]

The problem is the factory airbox outlet and overall design leads to flow restrictions. The higher the airflow, the higher the restriction. On stock tuning not leaving a lot on the table. But once you tune you'd be foolish not to add an intake as there is huge power on the table. And no shortage of various intake options fro you to choose from. As the filters themselves are not a major restriction I'd save my money on the K&Ns and stay with the stock filters if that is what you want to do.

 

[Adamdan]

The problem is the factory airbox outlet and overall design leads to flow restrictions. The higher the airflow, the higher the restriction. On stock tuning not leaving a lot on the table. But once you tune you'd be foolish not to add an intake as there is huge power on the table. And no shortage of various intake options fro you to choose from. As the filters themselves are not a major restriction I'd save my money on the K&Ns and stay with the stock filters if that is what you want to do.

I’ve already done the panel filters and the cars making great power with the jb4 and downpipes and catback. One thing i don’t like about the intakes is the loud turbo sound and bov some of them have. I’m not really looking for that for my car.

 

[Adamdan]

How do you guys find the sound is on intakes for the stinger? I don’t wanna hear a loud turbo sound and bov while driving around normal, well it’s more my wife. I don’t mind if its louder when I get on it. I love how I can hit my evc switch put my jb4 to 0 and it feels stock again.

 

[Terry@BMS]

More noise for sure, but only under higher boost levels. At low throttle inputs similar to stock. More noise or more power is just one of life's trade offs. Nothing wrong with deciding a modification isn't for you. Just be aware if lining up next to someone who has it, you may be at a significant disadvantage.

 

[brancky3]

The BOV sound is basically nonexistent on this car even with intakes. It's very quiet. Turbo sounds, on the other hand... Quite a bit louder

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Our stock intake system is very restrictive for a few reasons.

It’s mainly due to the kinked intake tubing that routes under the bumper, over the radiator and connects with small 1”x2” air inlets into the stock air boxes. Then it has to make a 90 degree turn through a flat panel filter with much lower surface area, and another 90 turn into the actual intake tubing of the turbo.

That’s a whole bunch of narrow twists & turns the air has to fight through before even getting to the restrictive flat panel filters.

Eliminating both those huge restrictions will easily provide 20wtq+ at low RPM with quicker turbo spooling, and extra 20-30whp all the way to redline from much less air restrictions at higher boost.

Beside the 4 cats on the DPs, the stock intake box is the most restrictive part of our Stingers and easily one of the biggest gains you can get for the money($110 total for 30whp+ at redline). I also dropped almost 0.2secs off my 0-60 times with just DIY high flow CAIs & heat shielding!

Lastly, they do make significant turbo spooling and blowoff sounds, but only under high boost in sport mode and here’s a sample below.

In Comfort or Eco mode you’ll barely notice any difference in sound. So unless your wife loves to use Sport mode and accelerate aggressively she probably wouldn’t even know it was changed.

Since you run more boost with the JB4 and already eliminated a lot of restrictions on the exhaust side, a high flow intake would significantly increase your power and benefit you even more than otherwise stock Stingers like me.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

 

[Adamdan]

Our stock intake system is very restrictive for a few reasons.

It’s mainly due to the kinked intake tubing that routes under the bumper, over the radiator and connects with small 1”x2” air inlets into the stock air boxes. Then it has to make a 90 degree turn through a flat panel filter with much lower surface area, and another 90 turn into the actual intake tubing of the turbo.

That’s a whole bunch of narrow twists & turns the air has to fight through before even getting to the restrictive flat panel filters.

Eliminating both those huge restrictions will easily provide 20wtq+ at low RPM with quicker turbo spooling, and extra 20-30whp all the way to redline from much less air restrictions at higher boost.

Beside the 4 cats on the DPs, the stock intake box is the most restrictive part of our Stingers and easily one of the biggest gains you can get for the money($110 total for 30whp+ at redline). I also dropped almost 0.2secs off my 0-60 times with just DIY high flow CAIs & heat shielding!

Lastly, they do make significant turbo spooling and blowoff sounds, but only under high boost in sport mode and here’s a sample below.

In Comfort or Eco mode you’ll barely notice any difference in sound. So unless your wife loves to use Sport mode and accelerate aggressively she probably wouldn’t even know it was changed.

Since you run more boost with the JB4 and already eliminated a lot of restrictions on the exhaust side, a high flow intake would significantly increase your power and benefit you even more than otherwise stock Stingers like me.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

Thanks for that info, I wonder how it would work if I took off the bumper and just removed the piping in there? Maybe install snorkels?