Pulling Driver's Side Turbo

ZyroXZ2

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Anyone got any tips or tricks to do this? I have conflicting info: the dealership claims that the entire engine/transmission need to be dropped to do it. Others quietly claim it can be removed on-car.

From what I've surmised without actually attempting it yet are a few things:

- The top coolant hose being removed seems to be enough space to move the turbo forward and angle it up and out (obviously the intake and turbo outlet hose would be removed)
- The primary DP and cat look to be the hardest thing to remove: top bolts are accessible from the top, but the bottom ones looks like it would require a combination of extensions and u-joints on an impact wrench from underneath the vehicle as there isn't any real "wrenching" room even if you got a socket wrench down there
- The oil lines seem to wrap around to the side-back area of the engine, but I haven't been able to specifically see where or if I have to remove those lines entirely to create enough clearance to move the turbo around
- The turbo manifold bolts are completely hidden by the primary cat and DP, so I can't entirely tell if all four bolts are easily accessible from above

If anyone has done this and can provide directions, or is an actual Kia service technician that knows the job, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
We have removed both
Engine and Trans do not need to be lifted/unmounted/moved at all
 
Yeah, no way the engine needs to be touched. They are just looking for an excuse.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Once down pipes are out can be removed from below. DP passenger side three bolts come out from above, one below. Driver two up top, two from below. The one from underneath are just what you said. Long Extension, swivel socket or joint. Pretty straight forward.
 

Curious though
Why do you need to know this? Why are you removing yours

Thanks for the pics. I see you had to remove the belt and an idler pulley? Or was that just happenstance and not related? Also, I didn't notice that line from the bottom (that corrugated metal pipe). How did you get the bolts out from something facing the bottom front?

Also, I'm removing it because the dealership had my car for 1.5 months to drop my whole engine/transmission to replace both turbos only for the driver's side turbo to start making siren noise again a week later. I feel like I got a reman unit, but instead of dicking around with the absolute horror story of dealing with them, I'm just going to pull the turbo and have it rebuilt. Screw the warranty: when the technicians and Kia drag their feet, have no idea what went wrong, take an entire month to finally tell me the turbo is damaged, and THEN finally be replacing it (yes, it was with them for over a month with nothing happening), I'd rather use my own two hands to work on the car that no longer feels the same after getting it back. I don't even want the car anymore, but I'm stuck with it. That's how infuriating and how inferior these "Stinger technicians" are to me that I'd rather eat the cost than go through warranty.

Thus, that is why I'm seeking all the help I can get from people who have pulled those just to make sure it's possible for me to do in a garage myself before shipping it out to be rebuilt.
 
Thanks for the pics. I see you had to remove the belt and an idler pulley? Or was that just happenstance and not related? Also, I didn't notice that line from the bottom (that corrugated metal pipe). How did you get the bolts out from something facing the bottom front?

Also, I'm removing it because the dealership had my car for 1.5 months to drop my whole engine/transmission to replace both turbos only for the driver's side turbo to start making siren noise again a week later. I feel like I got a reman unit, but instead of dicking around with the absolute horror story of dealing with them, I'm just going to pull the turbo and have it rebuilt. Screw the warranty: when the technicians and Kia drag their feet, have no idea what went wrong, take an entire month to finally tell me the turbo is damaged, and THEN finally be replacing it (yes, it was with them for over a month with nothing happening), I'd rather use my own two hands to work on the car that no longer feels the same after getting it back. I don't even want the car anymore, but I'm stuck with it. That's how infuriating and how inferior these "Stinger technicians" are to me that I'd rather eat the cost than go through warranty.

Thus, that is why I'm seeking all the help I can get from people who have pulled those just to make sure it's possible for me to do in a garage myself before shipping it out to be rebuilt.

Wow, can't blame you!
 
Thanks for the pics. I see you had to remove the belt and an idler pulley? Or was that just happenstance and not related? Also, I didn't notice that line from the bottom (that corrugated metal pipe). How did you get the bolts out from something facing the bottom front?

Also, I'm removing it because the dealership had my car for 1.5 months to drop my whole engine/transmission to replace both turbos only for the driver's side turbo to start making siren noise again a week later. I feel like I got a reman unit, but instead of dicking around with the absolute horror story of dealing with them, I'm just going to pull the turbo and have it rebuilt. Screw the warranty: when the technicians and Kia drag their feet, have no idea what went wrong, take an entire month to finally tell me the turbo is damaged, and THEN finally be replacing it (yes, it was with them for over a month with nothing happening), I'd rather use my own two hands to work on the car that no longer feels the same after getting it back. I don't even want the car anymore, but I'm stuck with it. That's how infuriating and how inferior these "Stinger technicians" are to me that I'd rather eat the cost than go through warranty.

Thus, that is why I'm seeking all the help I can get from people who have pulled those just to make sure it's possible for me to do in a garage myself before shipping it out to be rebuilt.

Whoops, nevermind, I just realized that was the bracket where the BOVs are mounted. I presume that got removed primarily for the passenger side turbo? Or is there still an advantage to taking that off for the driver's side?

Thanks again for the help!

P.S. If you're one of those people worried about publicly putting instructions out on the internet, you can DM me any advice, too. I can handle the job, I just need to minimize the time it takes with tips/tricks since I work 7 days a week (yes, all seven!).
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I have the official instuctions from the OEM shop manual, but that wants you to pull the motor. A lift or a pit helps tremendously. The leverage to get the extensions in the right way would be tough on your back. I have a pit, and got the DP's out relatively easily. Once they are out, you can fully access the turbo mounting flange tot he head and drop them back and out the same way you got the DP's out. only trouble might be oil and cooling lines on the drivers side since its pretty close to the body there.
 
I have the official instuctions from the OEM shop manual, but that wants you to pull the motor. A lift or a pit helps tremendously. The leverage to get the extensions in the right way would be tough on your back. I have a pit, and got the DP's out relatively easily. Once they are out, you can fully access the turbo mounting flange tot he head and drop them back and out the same way you got the DP's out. only trouble might be oil and cooling lines on the drivers side since its pretty close to the body there.

Bah, I can clean up coolant and oil (I'll have them both drained prior to anyway). So you're saying it's easier to pull it down and out? That would definitely be harder for me on jacks/ramps... O_o That also doesn't seem to account for that corrugated metal pipe, though. I have no idea how I'd even reach anything to the underside of the turbo to undo those bolts.
 
Thanks for the pics. I see you had to remove the belt and an idler pulley? Or was that just happenstance and not related? Also, I didn't notice that line from the bottom (that corrugated metal pipe). How did you get the bolts out from something facing the bottom front?

Also, I'm removing it because the dealership had my car for 1.5 months to drop my whole engine/transmission to replace both turbos only for the driver's side turbo to start making siren noise again a week later. I feel like I got a reman unit, but instead of dicking around with the absolute horror story of dealing with them, I'm just going to pull the turbo and have it rebuilt. Screw the warranty: when the technicians and Kia drag their feet, have no idea what went wrong, take an entire month to finally tell me the turbo is damaged, and THEN finally be replacing it (yes, it was with them for over a month with nothing happening), I'd rather use my own two hands to work on the car that no longer feels the same after getting it back. I don't even want the car anymore, but I'm stuck with it. That's how infuriating and how inferior these "Stinger technicians" are to me that I'd rather eat the cost than go through warranty.

Thus, that is why I'm seeking all the help I can get from people who have pulled those just to make sure it's possible for me to do in a garage myself before shipping it out to be rebuilt.
Wow...I feel your pain, man. That is some true garbage service. Good for you that you're skillful enough to do that maintenance yourself. Keep us posted, please and good luck to you!
 
Anyone got any tips or tricks to do this? I have conflicting info: the dealership claims that the entire engine/transmission need to be dropped to do it. Others quietly claim it can be removed on-car.

From what I've surmised without actually attempting it yet are a few things:

- The top coolant hose being removed seems to be enough space to move the turbo forward and angle it up and out (obviously the intake and turbo outlet hose would be removed)
- The primary DP and cat look to be the hardest thing to remove: top bolts are accessible from the top, but the bottom ones looks like it would require a combination of extensions and u-joints on an impact wrench from underneath the vehicle as there isn't any real "wrenching" room even if you got a socket wrench down there
- The oil lines seem to wrap around to the side-back area of the engine, but I haven't been able to specifically see where or if I have to remove those lines entirely to create enough clearance to move the turbo around
- The turbo manifold bolts are completely hidden by the primary cat and DP, so I can't entirely tell if all four bolts are easily accessible from above

If anyone has done this and can provide directions, or is an actual Kia service technician that knows the job, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

That's a bummer. What mods did you have on your car? At least you will have practice on how to replace them so it will be a breeze when we finally get updated turbos.
 
Lemon. Law.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Bah, I can clean up coolant and oil (I'll have them both drained prior to anyway). So you're saying it's easier to pull it down and out? That would definitely be harder for me on jacks/ramps... o_O That also doesn't seem to account for that corrugated metal pipe, though. I have no idea how I'd even reach anything to the underside of the turbo to undo those bolts.

I have a pit in my shop and from my perspective when I did the downpipes it sure looked like the would drop out the bottom easy when in was sizing them up in anticipation of doing a turbo swap in the near future. Can't say for sure till I try it soon enough, but in any case you sound like a problem solver and I have no doubt you'll get them out without having to pull the motor.
 
______________________________
By any chance you wouldn't have another dealer to try out? ...or for that matter call customer service and let them know about the shoddy service.
 
I have a pit in my shop and from my perspective when I did the downpipes it sure looked like the would drop out the bottom easy when in was sizing them up in anticipation of doing a turbo swap in the near future. Can't say for sure till I try it soon enough, but in any case you sound like a problem solver and I have no doubt you'll get them out without having to pull the motor.

Ehhh, I know you're trying to help, so I don't mean this in any antagonistic way, but... If you haven't actually pulled the turbos, then you're only as far as I am with conjecture. I'm looking for people who have literally pulled the turbos themselves and know any hang ups or issues they had to get around and how. Though, Nick hasn't replied about anything other than his posts above with pics. I'm still concerned about that corrugated pipe, and I think they had to remove the merge pipe where the BOVs are mounted to get the right angle to get to that.
 
By any chance you wouldn't have another dealer to try out? ...or for that matter call customer service and let them know about the shoddy service.

Whoops, should have added this to my other post... The next nearest is still the same dealership owners (sister dealerships), and the next one that ISN'T one of them is about 20 miles away. While that seems reasonable, you have to consider that the dealership that gave me shitty service is literally only 2 miles from my home. Thus, it made it easier to handle the situation while also being at work (I work 2.5 miles from home).
 
Sorry to hear, bummer. Kia management, from what I've seen and gathered from the forums takes complaints like yours seriously. Might be worth it to make a few calls before you tear into the motor.

If you do though, make sure to post pics!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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