Which tuning options are you open to?

[Larry Denen]

I've been browsing around the net getting input on various tunes and it seems most people prefer either a flash tune that can be updated and edited through a laptop or a dyno tune. Piggy backs and canned tunes are the easiest and usually plug 'n play. What would you like to see for your Stinger?

 

[Kia Stinger]

I voted for flash tune but I'm also comfortable with a piggy back. I've had both in the past and both did well for me...

 

[Chris]

I would highly prefer a flash tune. Mostly because I want the ability to have the tune be active or inactive based on the drive mode I'm in. If I am in comfort or eco mode, the tune should be the default from Kia, only if I change it to sport should the tune do anything..

 

[Kia Stinger]

I would highly prefer a flash tune. Mostly because I want the ability to have the tune be active or inactive based on the drive mode I'm in. If I am in comfort or eco mode, the tune should be the default from Kia, only if I change it to sport should the tune do anything..

I've known about tune drive modes for a while but have they got so good now that they adapt depending on which setting you're on? For example, if you're in eco or comfort - it tunes off...?

 

[Chris]

Some of the more advanced tunes do offer that. I believe the mustang has one like that, and maybe the Jag. Been a while since I looked.

 

[Kia Stinger]

Some of the more advanced tunes do offer that. I believe the mustang has one like that, and maybe the Jag. Been a while since I looked.

That's nice. Very useful and a great idea...

 

[Bamm1]

Some of the more advanced tunes do offer that. I believe the mustang has one like that, and maybe the Jag. Been a while since I looked.

Interesting.

I am not aware of any tunes for any models that would allow for the ECU to have both a completely stock tune (timing, fuel, boost, etc.) and then by just switching to say "sport" mode, you have a completely new tune take over (modified timing, boost, etc.).

There are Subaru tunes were you must keep the tuning device attached via the ODBII port. It allows you to do on the fly map switching. Some VAG tuners also allow multiple tunes to be loaded onto the ECU at one time. You can switch back and forth by entering a code and toggling through each tune via the stalks on the steering wheel (cruise control, etc). It is not as complicated as getting extra lives in Contra but it involves some button or stock pushing.

Now, there are tunes, say for example the new 1.5T Honda Civic Si, where the timing, fuel tables, etc. are modified and then the boost is set close to to stock (maybe 0.5 psi above or so). Then when you hit the sport mode button, the boost and only the boost goes as high as the transmission can take before crying uncle.

 

[CoconutRob]

The only thing I have tuned is a Harley VRod, where tuning was required when changing the exhaust and air intake. I have 2 questions.
1. Can someone explain why tuning isn' needed when changing exhaust and air intake for cars as someone told me on this forum.
2. Can someone define each type of tune and give positive and negative. Thanks rob

 

[Taimaishoo]

The only thing I have tuned is a Harley VRod, where tuning was required when changing the exhaust and air intake. I have 2 questions.
1. Can someone explain why tuning isn' needed when changing exhaust and air intake for cars as someone told me on this forum.
2. Can someone define each type of tune and give positive and negative. Thanks rob

1) Today's car ECUs are adaptaptive. They can learn your driving habits and adjust accordingly. When you change intake and exhaust, the ECU can learn and adjust for these small changes. Now, if you change your air intake, manifold, exhaust, down pipe, this, and that, the changes are a little more than adaptive learning and will require changes to the parameters of the ECU. In the cable industry, it's something similar. At the node (where the fiber stops and the coax starts) we require the light levels to be as close to 0db as possible, + or - 3db. That way, if there is any fluctuation in levels, they aren't so extreme as to knock anything out of whack. But once the levels go beyond that +/- 3db, the equipment can't compensate for the sudden swing and things start going bonkers. Temperature, humidity, barametric pressure, alignment of the planets, which way the wind blows, how fast is train A moving when it catches up to train B, if you are sticking your tongue out at the right angle, etc. can all affect this (while there are too many reasons to list, not all of them are true, but you get the idea). Your car's ECU is very similar. it can adjust itself for minor changes (air intake, exhaust) but once you start to modify your car heavily, you will need to have those parameters adjusted within that sweet spot, similar to wanting the light levels to be as close to 0db as possible so you have that +/- 3db 'room for error'.

2) I always mix up the different types of tunes but if you modify your car medium to heavy, you will probably want a custom tune. A custom tune is the best option because your car is hooked up to all sorts of sensors so that they can monitor the amount of air intake your car pulls in and the richness or leanness (is leanness a word?) of your exhaust and they can adjust many parameters to get your car to a one-of-a-kind sweet spot. The bad part to this is that you will have to find a tuner that is able to hack into your ECU (some car manufactures are tune friendly and this may or may not be easy), a tuner that has a dynometer to put your car on, and the hardest problem, is finding all of the above NEAR YOU, and is probably the most expensive. In some cases, a tuner or local enthusiast may hold a 'tuning event' where everyone that wants a custom tune, they all pitch in a little extra and split the cost of having the tuner fly to a town near you where a dyno is located, renting the dyno, etc.

 

[Chris]

Interesting.

I am not aware of any tunes for any models that would allow for the ECU to have both a completely stock tune (timing, fuel, boost, etc.) and then by just switching to say "sport" mode, you have a completely new tune take over (modified timing, boost, etc.).

There are Subaru tunes were you must keep the tuning device attached via the ODBII port. It allows you to do on the fly map switching. Some VAG tuners also allow multiple tunes to be loaded onto the ECU at one time. You can switch back and forth by entering a code and toggling through each tune via the stalks on the steering wheel (cruise control, etc). It is not as complicated as getting extra lives in Contra but it involves some button or stock pushing.

Now, there are tunes, say for example the new 1.5T Honda Civic Si, where the timing, fuel tables, etc. are modified and then the boost is set close to to stock (maybe 0.5 psi above or so). Then when you hit the sport mode button, the boost and only the boost goes as high as the transmission can take before crying uncle.

Here is an example of a Porsche tune offering it.

https://www.vrtuned.com/sport-mode-extra-power-for-porsche-ecu-tuning/

 

[Bamm1]

Here is an example of a Porsche tune offering it.

https://www.vrtuned.com/sport-mode-extra-power-for-porsche-ecu-tuning/

Thanks, very interesting. It seems to be exclusive to a specific ECU make and model. It also requires a specific option package (sport chrono). So not likely something we are going to see across multiple manufacturers.

 

[Bamm1]

The only thing I have tuned is a Harley VRod, where tuning was required when changing the exhaust and air intake. I have 2 questions.
1. Can someone explain why tuning isn' needed when changing exhaust and air intake for cars as someone told me on this forum.
2. Can someone define each type of tune and give positive and negative. Thanks rob

#1

The Stinger uses a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It uses the changes in engine vacuum or manifold pressure to determine engine load. It is not impacted by how much air can flow into the engine (i.e. a less restrictive intake). The issues with changing intakes without a tune comes into play when the engine uses a MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow). It does exactly what it says, it measures how much air is flowing into the engine. Increase the amount flowing into the engine with a less restrictive intake and the stock calibration for the sensor thinks there is an error. This has to be tuned out and modified to take advantage of the new airflow. MAF sensors can also become fowled by the oil used to aid filtration on some high flow aftermarket filters (K&N for example). A cat back exhaust does not dramatically reduce back pressure or increase exhaust velocity, so the engine can adapt to the change. Remove large restrictions like cats and you may have issues with over speeding the turbo, never mind throwing all kinds of codes from the O2 sensors, etc.

# 2

Piggyback

This is an electrical harness that is attached to sensors on the engine and it "tricks" the engine into thinking it is getting less boost, fuel rail pressure, etc. than has been requested. So it requests more and you get more power. Cheapest option but you won't get max power gains and there may be some smoothness issues. But it is the hardest to detect once removed.

ECU Tunes

OTS (Off the Shelf) - This is a tune designed to increase power but be used by multiple clients in all kinds of different climates. They tend to be more conservative for safety reasons. They also tend to me more expensive than piggybacks as you need hardware to hook up to the engine to apply the tune or you have to pull the ECU to have it bench flashed, etc.

Custom Tune: This tune goes above and beyond the OTS tune. It allows the tuner to take into consideration your specific car, your fuel from your favorite gas station, your climate, your driving style, the list goes on and on.

This can be accomplished in several ways:

Mail Order: They send you a base map. You data log, send it back, they mod the tune, you load again. Rinse and repeat until you get what you want/like. This costs more than the OTS tune mostly due to the labor cost for the log reading and tune modification.

Road Tune: Again, they load a base map. Data log while you drive around and modify as you go. Cost is similar to above.

Dyno Tune: Same as above but with more hard-lined sensors attached. Cost adds in the dyno rental fee as well.

The best combination for a DD, with power and safety, is to have a dyno tune. Then do a road tune to fine tune any drive-ability issues.

And remember, all ECU tunes can likely be detected, even if removed, if the manufacturer digs deep enough.

 

[MikeyCanuck]

Thanks for the valuable info! Does the Stinger use a MAF or not? Somewhat unclear...

 

[Bamm1]

Thanks for the valuable info! Does the Stinger use a MAF or not? Somewhat unclear...

I believe the 3.3T uses a MAP sensor.