Winter lessons, and choices going forward.

MerlintheMad

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My first winter with my Stinger is nearing its end. I've kept the OEM rims throughout; put Nitto Motivo UHP A/S tires on at the beginning of the winter weather.

I wonder if the lack of the Michelin "V" ridge that protrudes beyond the rim has contributed to what I just noticed hugely this morning.: "rash", all on the left side.

Of course, this only means that the car wash guide rail has scraped my slowly turning left side rims. You can see that the damage does not extend higher on the spokes than can be accounted for by the height of the guide rail. Shit. These pics are all of the LR rim; it's worse than the LF rim for some reason: probably a quirk of the conveyor keeps the front slightly away from the guide rail, while pulling the rear wheel against it. Shit.
DSC07693.webp DSC07694.webp DSC07695.webp DSC07696.webp DSC07697.webp
This was my most untouched rim until this happened. I don't know when it happened. I only know that I had my car in Magic Clean the last two days in a row. It looks like some idjit caught the end of the guide rail with my rim at least once. The rest is just rolling attrition damage. Shit.

Anyway! Enough of that.

Here's the dilemma: no matter where I go there are bad reviews. Someone sooner or later is going to rash my rims on the guide rail side (left side) again; and after I have my wheels flipped, the other rims can join in the pain. I have to have the underside of my car cleaned thoroughly and often or else salt deposits will accumulate: this is by far the first priority, hands down, no argument. Period. So going somewhere to get the underside sprayed out is inescapable.

At this point I am thinking of buying spiff "summer" rims and putting my Michelins on them, and as soon as I know the salt on our roads has diminished enough, swap out the OEM rims and Motivos for the summer tires and new rims that will NEVER see the inside of a car wash ever in my life. Just as soon as the salt goes on the roads next winter, out come the Motivos on the OEM rims and they can get carved up some more: at least they will mostly look pretty good for a winter ordeal: I can sandpaper and wet sand them down enough to look even better: this job a few days ago took all of fifteen, twenty minutes. Passes the "five feet away" test. For winter, that has to be good enough for my high performance daily driver! (LF, curb rash, my fault; the left side of my car hates me:rolleyes:)
DSC07691.webp DSC07692.webp

Before I thought of a second, "summer" set of wheels, I figured I'd just have to suck it up at the end of each winter, take my rims to a wheel restoration outfit and get them looking pretty again: for several/many hundreds of dollars. I'm not in love with the OEM GT rims that much! I'd rather just go over them myself for free, and replace them when the winter war is over.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome. :D
 
Wheel restoration is rarely cost effective these days, so in your case, for a DIY fix, there might be a couple amateur routes that will give mixed results. First, you can try for a full restoration by sanding the damage down, filling with bondo and then re-painting the wheels. This option means you would need to pick a different color to spray the wheel, you'll never get the natural metal finish back. The second option, since you're changing colors anyway, is Plasti-Dip. It doesn't last forever and it wont necessarily hide your gouges in the wheel, but it will make them less obvious. You can get pretty adventurous on the color these days and get pretty satisfying results. It is also not overly expensive and it's quite easy to spray on, just make sure you spray enough, about a whole can per wheel. The benefit of Plasti-Dip is if you decide you dont like it or want a new color, rip off that rubber coating and start over.

BTW, there are many sources of this "Dip" online, you're not limited to the actual Plasti-Dip brand, this opens up color options.
 
______________________________
Get alloygator.
Thanks. No thanks. First time into the guide rail they'd be toast; shell out another $150 each time that happens. Heh.
 
you'll never get the natural metal finish back
Actually, the OEM GT rims polish up with wet sandpaper pretty well. The "five feet away rule" doesn't notice any glaring discoloration, even over time.

This "dip" method looks/sounds intensive. I have to take the wheel off and mask the tire. Annoying. But it would be worth it, if the sanding method didn't fix 90% of the problem. We're just lucky that the clear coat on the OEM GT rims doesn't change the natural alloy look.

The biggest problem in all of this "restoration" crap is when the alloy higher areas get scrubbed down into the gun metal lower areas. There is no easy fix here. If I sand the splayed alloy down, I've ruined the gun metal, requiring a further repair/repaint of the gun metal. And I haven't even found what touch up paint color that is yet (tried months ago here and got no joy).
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Get 20's with beefier tires with rim protection, keep the stock rims as Winter wheels and add tires later. Of course, you could find a good detail shop that does had wash and use them instead.
 
Actually, the OEM GT rims polish up with wet sandpaper pretty well. The "five feet away rule" doesn't notice any glaring discoloration, even over time.

This "dip" method looks/sounds intensive. I have to take the wheel off and mask the tire. Annoying. But it would be worth it, if the sanding method didn't fix 90% of the problem. We're just lucky that the clear coat on the OEM GT rims doesn't change the natural alloy look.

The biggest problem in all of this "restoration" crap is when the alloy higher areas get scrubbed down into the gun metal lower areas. There is no easy fix here. If I sand the splayed alloy down, I've ruined the gun metal, requiring a further repair/repaint of the gun metal. And I haven't even found what touch up paint color that is yet (tried months ago here and got no joy).
I think you have done a great job on photos 6 to 7 with the standing.
I personally like the look of the OEM rims.
As for undercarriage salt removal, I prefer the coin wash places and angle the handheld pressure hose nozzle along the bottom of the car all around for the 3 minutes that I get.
I have had my car rust proofed and after a snowfall with lots of salt out on our roads, I do the 3 minute coin op just for under the car.
I use the same coin op late at night when it is empty, bring my own buckets filled with hot water, bring my own foam and mitts, and go to town on these rims and the rest of the car.
Takes about an hour...
 
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Get 20's with beefier tires with rim protection, keep the stock rims as Winter wheels and add tires later. Of course, you could find a good detail shop that does had wash and use them instead.
I don't understand your suggestion to get 20s. Wouldn't that just expose more of the rim to the guide rail? What do you mean by "beefier tires"?

I won't be going the rim protection route: read too many anecdotes of them slipping and having fitting problems. And I won't use the glue on type. I've noticed several cars with plastic lined rims, and they look like crap.

The thought had crossed my mind to find such a detail shop. But I bet the expense would be prohibitive. But I won't know unless I check it out.
 
I think you have done a great job on photos 6 to 7 with the standing.
I personally like the look if the OEM rims.
As for undercarriage salt removal, I prefer the coin wash places and angle the handheld pressure hose nozzle along the bottom of the car all around for the 3 minutes that I get.
I have had my car rust proofed and after a snowfall with lots of salt out down on our roads, I do the 3 minute countdown op just for under the car.
I use the same coin op late at night when it us empty, bring my own buckets filled with hot water, bring my own foam and mitts, and go to town wanhong tge rims and the rest of the car.
Takes about an hour...
Intensive devotion! I am afraid I don't like washing cars enough to spend that kind of time. My whole approach before winter was to perfect the fastest hand wash possible. I got it down to well under half an hour. That does not, of course, include any washing of the underside.

Interesting approach to the problem that you have there. I wonder, though, how thorough of a job angling the hand wand at a do it yourself car wash is. And how could a handheld wand possibly produce the same pressure as that full width upward jet from the floor in an automatic car wash? That stage in the wash looks positively violent, i.e. effective.
 
Intensive devotion! I am afraid I don't like washing cars enough to spend that kind of time. My whole approach before winter was to perfect the fastest hand wash possible. I got it down to well under half an hour. That does not, of course, include any washing of the underside.

Interesting approach to the problem that you have there. I wonder, though, how thorough of a job angling the hand wand at a do it yourself car wash is. And how could a handheld wand possibly produce the same pressure as that full width upward jet from the floor in an automatic car wash? That stage in the wash looks positively violent, i.e. effective.
My 1 hour wash includes driving there and back. Setting up at the car wash with my utensils. I would say 45 mins max time at the wash place itself. Time flies when you're having fun. Minus 10 degrees celsius....but I didn't feel it
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My first winter with my Stinger is nearing its end. I've kept the OEM rims throughout; put Nitto Motivo UHP A/S tires on at the beginning of the winter weather.

I wonder if the lack of the Michelin "V" ridge that protrudes beyond the rim has contributed to what I just noticed hugely this morning.: "rash", all on the left side.

Of course, this only means that the car wash guide rail has scraped my slowly turning left side rims. You can see that the damage does not extend higher on the spokes than can be accounted for by the height of the guide rail. Shit. These pics are all of the LR rim; it's worse than the LF rim for some reason: probably a quirk of the conveyor keeps the front slightly away from the guide rail, while pulling the rear wheel against it. Shit.
View attachment 19895 View attachment 19896 View attachment 19897 View attachment 19898 View attachment 19899
This was my most untouched rim until this happened. I don't know when it happened. I only know that I had my car in Magic Clean the last two days in a row. It looks like some idjit caught the end of the guide rail with my rim at least once. The rest is just rolling attrition damage. Shit.

Anyway! Enough of that.

Here's the dilemma: no matter where I go there are bad reviews. Someone sooner or later is going to rash my rims on the guide rail side (left side) again; and after I have my wheels flipped, the other rims can join in the pain. I have to have the underside of my car cleaned thoroughly and often or else salt deposits will accumulate: this is by far the first priority, hands down, no argument. Period. So going somewhere to get the underside sprayed out is inescapable.

At this point I am thinking of buying spiff "summer" rims and putting my Michelins on them, and as soon as I know the salt on our roads has diminished enough, swap out the OEM rims and Motivos for the summer tires and new rims that will NEVER see the inside of a car wash ever in my life. Just as soon as the salt goes on the roads next winter, out come the Motivos on the OEM rims and they can get carved up some more: at least they will mostly look pretty good for a winter ordeal: I can sandpaper and wet sand them down enough to look even better: this job a few days ago took all of fifteen, twenty minutes. Passes the "five feet away" test. For winter, that has to be good enough for my high performance daily driver! (LF, curb rash, my fault; the left side of my car hates me:rolleyes:)
View attachment 19900 View attachment 19901

Before I thought of a second, "summer" set of wheels, I figured I'd just have to suck it up at the end of each winter, take my rims to a wheel restoration outfit and get them looking pretty again: for several/many hundreds of dollars. I'm not in love with the OEM GT rims that much! I'd rather just go over them myself for free, and replace them when the winter war is over.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome. :D
IMO, have two sets - invest in a set of winter wheels and tires. I'm a big fan of the OEM wheels. I have AWD with the 18's. And even though I have all-seasons, I decided early-on to buy a winter set. I not only want/need winter tires where I live, it is WAY too easy to muck-up the wheels in winter - easy to slide into a curb; all that salt, grit, and grime.... plus things like those frequent visits along the rails of the local car wash. Even if you don't need true winter tires, you can have A/S for your 'winters', and a nice set of summer UHP's on the OEM wheels for warm-weather months. My $0.02
 
IMO, have two sets - invest in a set of winter wheels and tires. I'm a big fan of the OEM wheels. I have AWD with the 18's. And even though I have all-seasons, I decided early-on to buy a winter set. I not only want/need winter tires where I live, it is WAY too easy to muck-up the wheels in winter - easy to slide into a curb; all that salt, grit, and grime.... plus things like those frequent visits along the rails of the local car wash. Even if you don't need true winter tires, you can have A/S for your 'winters', and a nice set of summer UHP's on the OEM wheels for warm-weather months. My $0.02
Just to add... my winter wheels/tires are the default recommended set from TireRack - Mich X-Ice's with a 'cheap' set of steel Sport Edition A8-2 wheels for $140/per... but the look pretty nice...
winters profile.webp
 
IMO, have two sets - invest in a set of winter wheels and tires. I'm a big fan of the OEM wheels. I have AWD with the 18's. And even though I have all-seasons, I decided early-on to buy a winter set. I not only want/need winter tires where I live, it is WAY too easy to muck-up the wheels in winter - easy to slide into a curb; all that salt, grit, and grime.... plus things like those frequent visits along the rails of the local car wash. Even if you don't need true winter tires, you can have A/S for your 'winters', and a nice set of summer UHP's on the OEM wheels for warm-weather months. My $0.02
I will probably do this and use the OEM GT rims for winter. But I need a way to spiff them back up; not perfect, but presentable. What will possibly happen is that I will create a single, alloy finish, so that I don't have to worry about that gun metal two tone.

Right now, I have Karl of Magic Clean looking for a way to make the damage his shop did to my rims look good. He admits that it was his employee who drove my Stinger into the tunnel wrong. Maybe he'll take the cost of repair out of his paycheck. Not my problem. Anyway, it's only one rim really bad, and the other with considerably less damage done. We'll see what I find out.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Around us here in western NC there are several of the touchless washes that, as you enter, spray up underneath as you drive in. No rails. Nothing like that there?
 
______________________________
Move South
No thanks. Too hot in summer; spiders are too big; and there's snakes that will chase you into an alley. :laugh:
Seriously... there are disadvantages to owning a car like the GT2 in the winter vs. the ability to drive it near-year-'round on roads without snow and ice. Then-again... find a snow-covered deserted parking lot on an early Saturday morning... Or, get it on a twisty country road with 3-4 inches of new snow, put it in Sport and turn TC off - steering with the throttle... yee-haw!!! Who needs RWD!?! :D
 
Around us here in western NC there are several of the touchless washes that, as you enter, spray up underneath as you drive in. No rails. Nothing like that there?
I don't know. I searched with "touchless car wash" and got Magic Clean in the top of the search results. What am I supposed to do with that? Their tunnel throws all the water and soap, and then the car passes through the dangling things that shake around, etc. Not "touchless" by any stretch. There are a lot of car washes around here, not even including the do it yourself bays.
 
I don't know. I searched with "touchless car wash" and got Magic Clean in the top of the search results. What am I supposed to do with that? Their tunnel throws all the water and soap, and then the car passes through the dangling things that shake around, etc. Not "touchless" by any stretch. There are a lot of car washes around here, not even including the do it yourself bays.
I do not like the dangles. I went into a car wash queue for a new facility only to realize I needed to go into the gas station to get credit to enter. Using a touchless wash is blasphemy for me regardless, but as I backed out, I saw spinny scratchy things and immediately aborted. Detailer's pickyness I suppose.
 
I do not like the dangles. I went into a car wash queue for a new facility only to realize I needed to go into the gas station to get credit to enter. Using a touchless wash is blasphemy for me regardless, but as I backed out, I saw spinny scratchy things and immediately aborted. Detailer's pickyness I suppose.
Couldn’t agree more. Christine has never been in a car wash of any type and I hope to be able to avoid them forever. Even the completely touchless ones uses some pretty harsh chemicals.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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